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Fact Checking Diamond Fluorescence: 11 Myths Dispelled

March 27, 2018

If you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring, you’ve probably heard about diamond fluorescence, along with varying opinions about its pros and cons. Let’s dig into a few common myths about fluorescence and D-to-Z color diamonds.

In this blog, we cover:
Myth #1: All diamonds fluoresce
Myth #2: You can see diamond fluorescence – no matter the lighting
Myth #3: Diamond fluorescence can always be detected
Myth #4: Diamond fluorescence influences a diamond’s color grade
Myth #5: Diamond fluorescence is given a grade, just like color, clarity and cut
Myth #6: Diamonds only show blue fluorescence
Myth #7: Strong blue diamond fluorescence is bad
Myth #8: Diamond fluorescence detracts from a diamond’s sparkle and beauty
Myth #9: Fluorescence means the diamond is a “real” natural diamond
Myth #10: Fluorescence can make a diamond less durable
Myth #11: Diamond fluorescence does/doesn’t affect value

Myth #1: All diamonds fluoresce
FACT: The majority of diamonds do not fluoresce. In a study of more than 26,000 diamonds submitted for grading to GIA, researchers found that only approximately 25% to 35% of them exhibited some degree of diamond fluorescence when examined with a standard long-wave UV lamp. So, it’s likely that the diamond you’re eyeing does not fluoresce.

Myth #2: You can see diamond fluorescence – no matter the lighting
FACT: Diamonds that fluoresce only do so when they are exposed to invisible UV rays and other higher energy radiation sources such as X-rays and lasers. You might see your diamond fluoresce under a bright sun, in a tanning bed, at a dance club or in other places where strong fluorescent or black lights are used. But once the light source is removed, the diamond will stop fluorescing. Incandescent lighting will not cause a diamond to fluoresce.

Diamond earrings shown under incandescent light appear to be the same color.

When viewed with incandescent light, all the diamonds in these earrings appear to be the same color. Photo: GIA

Diamond earrings viewed under a UV lamp showing different degrees of diamond fluorescence.

When viewed with a UV lamp, the diamonds in the earrings show different degrees of diamond fluorescence. Photo: GIA

Myth #3: Diamond fluorescence can always be detected
FACT: Diamond fluorescence cannot always be detected. You need conditions where UV rays are present and the intensity of the fluorescence is strong enough to be observed. A reputable grading laboratory, like GIA, follows strict protocols to determine the presence of fluorescence. It also adheres to set standards in describing its intensity, to ensure objective and consistent reporting.

A 1.42 carat step cut diamond engagement ring set in platinum.

Fluorescent or not, this 1.42 carat (ct) diamond engagement ring, with diamonds lining the band, captivates with its bold, clean lines. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Myth #4: Diamond fluorescence influences a diamond’s color grade
FACT: In assigning a diamond color grade, GIA examines the gem in a highly controlled viewing environment, designed to minimize the influence of fluorescence and to produce an accurate and objective assessment of the diamond’s color.

However, the way you perceive a diamond’s color grade may be affected by the extent to which it fluoresces – in a positive way. In a diamond lower on the GIA D-to-Z color scale (say, I to N) with a yellow tint, moderate-to-strong blue fluorescence may cancel out some of the yellow for a better color appearance than what its color grade would indicate. See Myth #7.

Myth #5: Diamond fluorescence is given a grade, just like color, clarity and cut
FACT: Diamond fluorescence is not one of the 4Cs – like color, clarity, cut and carat weight – which describe the quality of a diamond. GIA considers fluorescence an identifying characteristic – additional information that helps distinguish one diamond from another.

GIA diamond grading reports describe the intensity of fluorescence as None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong. If the fluorescence is Medium, Strong or Very Strong, the color of the fluorescence will be noted on the grading report.

Photo showing the intensity of diamond fluorescence described as: None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong under UV lighting (top) and under normal lighting (bottom).

A GIA Grading Report describes the intensity of a diamond’s fluorescence as: None, Faint, Medium, Strong and Very Strong. Composite photo in UV: Maha DeMaggio/GIA. Composite photo in normal light: Harold and Erica Van Pelt/GIA

Myth #6: Diamonds only show blue fluorescence
FACT: Diamonds can fluoresce in a variety of colors. These include orangy yellow, yellow, orange, red, white and green. Variations in the atomic structure, such as the number of nitrogen atoms present, cause the phenomenon. Blue, however, is by far the most common color of diamond fluorescence.

Rough diamonds displaying a range of colors when exposed to UV light.

These rough diamonds exhibit a range of colors when exposed to UV light. Photo: GIA

Myth #7: Strong blue diamond fluorescence is bad
FACT: GIA studied the influence of blue fluorescence on the appearance of a diamond under normal viewing conditions. The Institute found that average observers (meant to represent the jewelry buying public) could not consistently discriminate any fluorescence-related effects in the viewing environments most similar to those in which jewelry is purchased and worn.

However, GIA also found that strong blue diamond fluorescence could be beneficial. The results of its study revealed that, as noted for Myth #4, some strongly blue fluorescent diamonds were perceived to have a better color appearance than their color grade would suggest when viewed table-up, with no discernible trend table-down.

Composite photo of diamond necklace and one earring shown under normal lighting conditions (left) and a long-wave UV lamp (right).

Bejeweled fireworks: Half the diamonds in this necklace (132 carats total weight) and the one earring (3.20 ct center stone) in this composite photo are shown under normal lighting conditions (left), and the other half of the necklace and the same earring are shown as they appear under a long-wave UV lamp (right). Composite photo: Harold and Erica Van Pelt/GIA. Courtesy: Harry Winston Inc., New York

Myth #8: Diamond fluorescence detracts from a diamond’s sparkle and beauty
FACT: Diamond fluorescence has little to no effect on a diamond’s sparkle, and research shows that it doesn’t impact beauty either.

A diamond’s sparkle is determined primarily by its cut, not by whether the diamond fluoresces or not. A diamond’s cut – that is, the angles and relative measurements of its facets, as well as its other proportions, design and craftsmanship – determines how well light performs when it strikes the diamond and how well it will sparkle.

A 1.29 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with diamond melee in the shank.

Even strong blue fluorescence would not affect the beauty of this 1.29 ct E color diamond engagement ring in normal lighting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

MYTH #9: Fluorescence means the diamond is a “real” natural diamond
FACT: Absolutely not. The presence or absence of fluorescence should not be used as a DIY test to determine if your diamond is real. First, not all natural diamonds fluoresce under the standard UV lamp used by gemologists (see Myth #1). Second, some synthetic or lab grown diamonds do fluoresce to these wavelengths. Although differences have been noted in the intensity, color and pattern of fluorescence between natural and synthetic diamonds, there is overlap. Finally, some materials used to impersonate diamond – like cubic zirconia – can display fluorescence.

CVD diamond displaying strong pinkish orange fluorescence, with regions of strong blue or violet, when exposed to high-intensity ultra-short wavelengths.

Synthetic diamonds made by the chemical vapor deposition method may display strong pinkish orange fluorescence (among other colors), with regions of strong blue or violet, when exposed to high-intensity ultra-short wavelengths. Photo: Wuyi Wang/GIA

Myth #10: Fluorescence can make a diamond less durable
FACT: A diamond that fluoresces under a standard UV lamp has the same structural integrity as one with no reaction to it. Nothing in the submicroscopic structures that cause fluorescence inherently weakens the diamond.

Myth #11: Diamond fluorescence does/doesn’t affect value
FACT: Jewelry professionals disagree about whether fluorescence adds to or detracts from the value of a diamond. Some trade professionals believe those very rare diamonds at the high end of the D-to-Z color scale that have extremely strong blue fluorescence are worth less than their nonfluorescent counterparts because the fluorescence can affect their transparency by giving them a hazy or milky appearance. Conversely, some traders pay higher prices for blue-fluorescing diamonds of a lower color grade because, as noted above, they believe the fluorescence masks the faint to very light yellow color of these diamonds.

Diamond fluorescence and its effect on value is not a simple question, and there isn’t a simple answer. We recommend that you compare diamonds in a variety of lighting environments and choose the stone that you like best. Ultimately, GIA believes the beauty of a diamond is truly in the eye of the beholder.

A 1.67 ct diamond engagement ring set in platinum, surrounded by 0.56 carats of diamonds in the halo and shank.

Wouldn’t it be awesome if this 1.67 ct center diamond fluoresced in a night club? Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Is there a diamond fluorescence “fact” you’d like to verify? Leave us a comment below. In the meantime, if you enjoyed this post, you might like reading about common engagement ring myths.

Diamond Color: Seven Things You Need to Know

February 22, 2018

If you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring, you need to know about what diamond color is if you want to understand quality and how diamonds are valued. If you are curious about what colors diamonds come in and how color grade impacts value, check out our seven essential things about diamond color you should know.

In this blog we cover:

Diamond value is based (in part) on the absence of color.
A diamond’s color grade should be determined by a grading laboratory.
Colored diamonds are graded and valued differently from colorless diamonds.
Treatments can improve diamond color.
Diamond fluorescence has little to no impact on diamond color.
Engagement ring settings can influence the perception of diamond color.
To be sure of a diamond’s color, get a GIA grading report.

1. Diamond value is based (in part) on the absence of color

Diamond color is important: Most diamonds used in engagement rings are near-colorless with hints of yellow or brown. All things being equal, the more colorless a diamond is, the rarer it is, and this rarity will be reflected in its price.

The GIA D-to-Z Color Scale allows for precise measurement of diamond color. Illustration: GIA

GIA’s D-to-Z Color Scale is used to measure the degree of colorlessness of a diamond. The letter “D” represents a colorless diamond, with each following letter representing a diamond that has slightly more yellow or brown.

GIA organizes diamond color into five groups:

Colorless (D-F): The most rare, and therefore the most valuable
Near-colorless (G-J): Color is often unnoticeable except by trained graders
Faint (K-M): Color is still difficult to see by the untrained eye
Very Light (N-R): Subtle color can be seen in larger stones by an untrained eye
Light (S-Z): Color can be seen in stones of different sizes. The diamonds appear slightly yellow or brown but do not have sufficient color to be considered a “fancy” colored diamond

GIA D-to-Z diamond color scale showing diamonds at either end of the grading spectrum.

When diamonds at either end of the grading spectrum are placed side by side, it is easy to see the differences in diamond color. Photo: GIA

2. A diamond’s color grade should be determined by a grading laboratory

The distinctions between diamond color grades can be so subtle that they are undetectable to the untrained eye. But they do make a very big difference in diamond price. That’s why determining a diamond’s color grade is best left to a gemological laboratory, like GIA, that has the expertise and processes to ensure objective, unbiased color grading.

In working to evaluate what color a diamond is, GIA graders follow a strict protocol that dictates the type of lighting and neutral background used, as well as precisely how the diamond should be held and viewed during the assessment. A color grade is determined by comparing the diamond to masterstones – a set of color-comparison diamonds of known position on the GIA D-to-Z color grading scale – when all are placed table down in a grading tray. This viewing position reduces the complex appearance of a faceted colorless to near-colorless diamond when viewed face up.

One look at this 6.75 carat (ct), F-color, SI-clarity round brilliant and you’ll know why diamonds are the universal symbol of love. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Colored diamonds are graded and valued differently from colorless diamonds

Diamond color is arguably the most important factor in colored diamonds. Some common colors that diamonds come in are yellow, brown, pink, red, blue, orange, purple, green, gray or black. This does not include diamonds in the normal color range that are slightly yellowish, slightly brownish or slightly grayish. When the color is natural, the diamonds are called fancy-color diamonds, fancy diamonds or fancies.

Colored diamonds come in a rainbow of hues. Photo: Robert and Orasa Weldon/GIA

GIA grades colored diamonds differently from colorless diamonds. Unlike GIA’s D-to-Z grading system for colorless to light yellow diamonds, which is based on the absence of color when the diamond is viewed table down, the grading system for colored diamonds is based on the presence of color when the diamond is viewed face up. Terms used by GIA to describe colored diamonds include: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Dark, Fancy Intense, Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid.

What to look for in colored diamonds? In general, the more color a colored diamond has, the better. Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid diamonds, for example, have more color than Fancy Light diamonds—and are usually more valuable. However, tone is also important: For example, a diamond that is extremely dark (Fancy Dark) may be less desirable than a lighter stone graded Fancy Intense.

A 3.66 ct Fancy Yellow diamond engagement ring with two halos containing 0.37 carats of yellow diamonds and 1.50 carats of colorless diamonds.

Colored diamonds can be far more expensive than colorless diamonds. Here a 3.66 ct Fancy Yellow glows like a ray of sunshine. Two halos encircle it: the inner containing 0.37 carats of yellow diamonds; the outer, 1.50 carats of colorless diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Fancy-color diamonds are, for the most part, far rarer than diamonds in the D-to-Z color range. Some experts estimate that only two percent of total rough diamond production is fancy colored. Since rarity influences price, it’s not surprising that spectacular blue, pink, green, orange and other colored diamonds can sell for millions of dollars at auction.

The Pink Star ring, which sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $71 million, contains a 59.60 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond graded by GIA.

The GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink 59.60 ct Pink Star diamond sold for $71 million at the April 4, 2017 Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

4. Treatments can improve diamond color

Diamond color can be altered by treatments. All else being equal, diamonds that have not been treated are more expensive than diamonds that have been treated. Legally, the seller must disclose any treatments. If you are aware what diamond color is, it’s easier to understand how they have been treated.

High pressure, high temperature (HPHT) processing is perhaps the most common technique used to alter, enhance or remove color. HPHT treatment can change some brown diamonds into colorless ones or into other colors like yellow, greenish yellow or green. This process is also associated with treated pink, blue and orange-yellow diamonds. The resulting color is considered permanent, but HPHT treatment should always be disclosed.

Annealing is another process that uses controlled heating and cooling to change the color of a gem material, especially after irradiation. Irradiating a diamond or coating it are other methods used to enhance a diamond’s color.

A 6.61 ct Fancy yellow brown diamond (left) before annealing and the same diamond (right), graded L (faint yellow) after annealing.

Before HPHT annealing to remove color, this 6.61 ct diamond was a Fancy yellow brown (left). After annealing (right), GIA graded the diamond an L (faint yellow). Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

5. Diamond fluorescence has little to no impact on diamond color

Diamond fluorescence is visible light temporarily emitted by some diamonds when they are exposed to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun, fluorescent lamps or other sources. This emitted light can display various colors (often blue in diamonds), intensities (faint to very strong) and distribution patterns. When the light source is removed, the fluorescence is no longer visible.

Many in the diamond trade believe that strong blue fluorescence can make a light yellow diamond look closer to colorless when exposed to a UV source such as sunlight. Blue and yellow are color opposites and tend to cancel each other out, so blue fluorescence masks the yellow color. In rare cases, some diamonds with extremely strong fluorescence may appear slightly hazy or oily. Fewer than 0.2% of the fluorescent diamonds submitted to GIA exhibit this effect.

A group of seven diamonds shown under daylight-equivalent illumination (left) and exposed to long-wave UV irradiation (right).

The same group of seven diamonds is shown here under daylight-equivalent illumination (left) and when exposed to long-wave UV irradiation (right). Photos: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

To answer questions from consumers and the trade about the impact of fluorescence on diamond color in the D-to-Z range, GIA conducted extensive observer testing. Here’s what its researchers found: “For the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, no systematic effects of fluorescence were detected [on the face-up appearance of the groups of diamonds]. Even the experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.” As a result, GIA considers diamond fluorescence to be an identifying characteristic, not a grading factor – meaning, it has little to no impact on what color the diamond is.

6. Engagement ring settings can influence the perception of diamond color

Diamonds are highly reflective – their facets are essentially an arrangement of tiny mirrors reflecting light and the surroundings. So it should come as no surprise that the color of a ring’s prongs and shank can influence the color you see in the diamond. A white metal like platinum or white gold can emphasize the absence of color in a diamond that is colorless or near-colorless, while a gold band might make a diamond lower on the D-to-Z scale appear more yellow.

Learn more about how metal affects a diamond’s color appearance.

A 8.03 carat D color marquise cut diamond engagement ring set in platinum, flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing 0.72 carats.

The 8.03 ct marquise cut diamond in this engagement ring is D color. It is flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing a total of 0.72 carats. The platinum band and prongs highlight the beauty of the diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

7. To be sure of a diamond’s color, get a GIA grading report

A GIA Diamond Grading Report and GIA Diamond Origin Report provides an in-depth assessment of a diamond’s quality based on the 4Cs: diamond color, clarity, cut and carat weight. A report not only contains an objective color grade, but it also discloses other identifying characteristics like fluorescence, as well as any treatments detected. Learn what diamond color information is included in a GIA report.

An engagement ring is profoundly intimate and symbolic – it represents your love and commitment. A GIA Diamond Grading Report lets you make this most important purchase with peace of mind.

Now that you understand what diamond color is and its importance, here are 12 tips for buying an engagement ring.

Lead image courtesy of 1stdibs.com

Diamond Engagement Ring Setting: How Metal Affects Diamond Color Appearance

October 31, 2017

Selecting the right metal for your engagement ring setting is just as important as selecting the right diamond. The metal will not only define the ring’s style, but it can also play a big role in your diamond’s color appearance. Here’s how to choose wisely.

A solitaire center stone surrounded by diamond melee in a gold engagement ring setting.

A gold engagement ring allows the solitaire diamond to be the star of the show. Diamond melee along the ring’s shank play a supporting role, adding even more sparkle to the overall effect. Courtesy: Stuller Inc.

Gold, platinum and silver are the metals most often used in jewelry. Their allure, workability and durability make gold and platinum excellent choices for an engagement ring. For many people, choosing an engagement ring setting starts with a color and style preference. Some prefer the warmth of yellow gold or rose gold engagement rings; others opt for the coolness and classicism of white metals such as platinum or white gold for their engagement rings. Yet few people consider the effect that engagement ring’s metal color has on the most important feature of an engagement ring – the center stone, which is often a diamond.

A 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond set in a rose gold engagement ring setting.

An 18K rose gold band brings warmth to this 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

The importance of diamond color and reflection

When choosing an engagement ring setting in white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, platinum or silver, consider these important things:

Your diamond’s color. Although many people think of gem-quality diamonds as colorless, truly colorless diamonds are actually very rare. Most diamonds used in jewelry and diamond engagement rings are nearly colorless with hints of yellow, brown or gray. In picking an engagement ring in yellow gold, white gold or other metal for your ring setting, you’ll need to know where your diamond is on the GIA D-to-Z Color Scale.

The fact that diamonds are highly reflective. The many facets of a standard round brilliant diamond and other diamond shapes act like tiny mirrors reflecting their surroundings, including the color of the band and the prongs holding the gem.

Knowing this, you can use the color of the metal in your engagement ring to highlight your diamond’s color or create a more harmonious appearance.

A 1.20 ct emerald cut diamond set in an 18K gold engagement ring setting.

An 18K gold band complements the hint of yellow in this 1.20 ct N color emerald cut diamond for a very harmonious look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Once you’ve settled on whether you want your engagement ring design to highlight the main diamond or create a sense of harmony between the setting and the center stone, you’ll have many options to choose from. Remember, your jeweler is your best resource. She or he will understand the subtle nuances of diamond color and can make the best metal color recommendations to achieve the look you’re going for. Also, the best way to see a metal’s effect on diamond color appearance is to see the diamond and the engagement ring setting in person. In the meantime, though, here are some tried and true ideas to get you thinking.

Metals for diamonds graded D through J

All things being equal for diamonds on the D-to-Z scale, the less color the stone has the more valuable it is. Diamonds graded D-E-F on the GIA color scale are considered colorless, and a white metal—platinum or white-gold engagement ring setting is the ideal choice to emphasize their beauty. Diamonds graded G through J are in the near-colorless range, with an almost imperceptible hint of yellow. They, too, are good candidates for a platinum or white gold ring setting.

If you choose another color of metal or opt for a two-tone ring to create contrast, the prongs that hold the diamond should be a white metal like white gold or platinum. Yellow gold prongs could impart some yellow color to the diamond, making your colorless or near-colorless stone look like it has a different color grade.

A 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes set in a platinum engagement ring setting.

A platinum band heightens the icy beauty of this 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo engagement ring setting.

Like the white look, but want some contrast? This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo, which adds visual richness to the design. Courtesy: PE Jay Creations

Metals for diamonds graded M through Z

A diamond with a color grade of M or lower will likely have a noticeable yellow tint. A yellow gold band will accentuate the yellow in the diamond; a white band might make the diamond appear more colorless. Diamonds with a color grade of K or L are in something of a middle zone; you can use either yellow gold or white metal bands such as platinum or white gold, depending on the effect you want for your engagement ring setting.

A K color diamond in a gold engagement ring setting.

The diamond center stone in this ring is a K color. A gold band brings out the hint of yellow, giving the diamond a softer appearance. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Set in a platinum engagement ring setting, this 11.04 ct yellowish diamond is surrounded by 5.05 carats of white diamond melee.

A fanciful platinum setting with 5.05 carats of white diamond melee provides a pleasing contrast with the 11.04 ct yellowish diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: MUNNU The Gem Palace

Picking metals for fancy-color diamonds

Diamonds that fall outside the D-to-Z color range are called “fancy colors.” Selecting the right metal to accentuate these unique stones is key to delivering the radiance and allure of each engagement ring. Naturally occurring colors include blue, brown, pink, yellow and green. These diamonds are evaluated less for brilliance or fire and more for color intensity. Depending on the hue, tone and saturation of the color, the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System assigns colored diamonds one of these color grades: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Dark and Fancy Deep. Generally, Fancy Vivid and Fancy Deep command the highest prices.

Metals for brown diamonds

Brown diamonds were once deemed unsuitable for jewelry. Then marketers in the 1980s gave them tantalizing names like champagne, cognac and chocolate, and brown diamonds developed their own niche.

Like yellowish diamonds, brown diamonds can be placed on a white gold or platinum engagement ring setting to highlight their color, or they can be placed in a yellow gold or rose gold engagement ring setting to complement their color. Even the metal used for prongs can either contrast or complement the diamond in the center.

A 0.38 ct brown diamond in an 18K white gold engagement ring setting, surrounded by a double halo of white diamond melee.

A 0.38 ct brown diamond pops because it is set in an 18K white gold band and surrounded by a double halo of 0.39 carats of white diamond melee. White prongs accentuate the look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A yellow gold engagement ring setting featuring a brown cushion cut diamond accented with platinum prongs and white diamond side stones.

Neil Lane designed this ring for actress, model and Paralympic medalist Amy Purdy. A brown cushion cut diamond is the center stone. A yellow gold band creates a soft backdrop, while platinum prongs and white diamond side stones provide an arresting contrast. Courtesy: Neil Lane

Metals for yellow diamonds

Yellow diamonds were relatively rare until the discovery in the late 1860s of quantities of what today would be considered fancy yellows at several locations in South Africa. They are now found around the world. The presence of nitrogen gives them their color.

A platinum or white gold engagement ring can highlight the color of a yellow diamond, while a yellow gold ring will harmonize with the color of the yellow diamond.

A double halo engagement ring setting of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond

A double halo of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the frosty backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond with 1.08 carats if yellow diamonds in the halo and shank in an 18K gold engagement ring setting.

The combination of a 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond, 1.08 carats of yellow diamonds in the halo and along the shank and an 18K yellow gold band creates an enchanting engagement ring setting. Courtesy: Norman Silverman

Metals for pink diamonds

Pink diamonds are exceedingly rare. Historically, they have been found in Brazil’s alluvial workings and in Indian and African mines. Since the late 1980s, the Argyle mine in Australia has been the most important source of pink diamonds, but even here they are quite rare. According to Rio Tinto Ltd., the owner of the mine, “more than 800 million carats of rough diamonds have been produced from the Argyle Diamond Mine. Total carats of pink rough: less than 1% of total production.” Not surprisingly, pink diamonds are extremely expensive.

Since the color of pink diamonds is so prized, it is rare to see them set in a yellow gold engagement ring setting. A pink diamond is the star, and the white metal band is used to highlight its color.

A white metal engagement ring setting and double halo of white diamonds surround a 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond.

A white metal band and double halo of white diamonds form the elegant frame for this 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond. The piece sold for more than $28.5 million at a Christie’s auction in November 2015. Courtesy: Christie’s

Metals for blue diamonds

Blue diamonds are also extraordinarily rare and very expensive. India is their historic source, and it is believed that the 45.52 ct Hope Diamond, the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff and other famous blue diamonds originated there. Today, the Premier mine in South Africa, which opened in 1903, is considered the most significant source of blue diamonds. Nevertheless, at the end of the 20th century blue diamonds accounted for less than 0.1% of diamonds found there.

Like pink diamonds, they are almost always set in a platinum, white gold or silver engagement ring setting that highlights their color.

A 5.98 ct Fancy light blue diamond in a platinum engagement ring setting.

A natural 5.98 ct Fancy Light blue diamond sits in a platinum band. Courtesy: Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada; Gift of Vincent Tovell. Certified by the Canadian Cultural Property Export Review Board under the terms of the Cultural Property Export and Import Act.

A beautiful engagement ring is the product of a number of choices that add up to a stunning creation. Knowing how to protect your diamond engagement ring setting is another important consideration.

The History of the 4Cs of Diamond Quality

October 17, 2017

The term 4Cs we know today had its start in the early 1940s, as the brainchild of GIA founder Robert M. Shipley. A former retail jeweler, Shipley was fiercely committed to professionalizing the American jewelry industry. He established an institute (GIA) to provide jewelers with formal training and was a tireless advocate for greater knowledge, ethics and standards when it came to buying and selling gems.

Robert M. Shipley founded the Gemological Institute of America in 1931. Photo: GIA

Shipley developed the 4Cs as a mnemonic device to help his students remember the four factors that characterize a faceted diamond: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. The concept was simple, but revolutionary.

Throughout history, diamond merchants used a variety of different, usually broad, terms to talk about these four factors, rarely with any consistency. Terms such as river or water were used to describe diamonds that were the most colorless, with Cape assigned to pale yellow diamonds from South Africa’s Cape of Good Hope region. To describe clarity, they referred to diamonds as being “without flaws” or “with imperfections.” Cut was described as “made well” or “made poorly.” As a result, it was very difficult for jewelers to communicate those elements of value to their customers or for their customers to remember them. Only the term carat to describe weight has been used consistently from the 1500s to today.

Under Shipley’s direction, the term 4Cs became part of the American gem industry’s vernacular, popularized through advertising campaigns, lectures and GIA education courses. Within decades, they were integrated into the international nomenclature as well.

The 4Cs and the Diamond Grading Scales

Jewelers welcomed Shipley’s innovation, but GIA did not stop there. Shipley’s successor as president, Richard T. Liddicoat (affectionately known as “RTL” by later generations of GIA staff) – along with colleagues Lester Benson, Joseph Phillips, Robert Crowningshield and Bert Krashes – expanded on the 4Cs.

Richard T. Liddicoat, president of GIA from 1952 to 1983, integrated the 4Cs into GIA’s curriculum and laboratory reports. Courtesy: Norman B. Samuels Portrait Photographers, Los Angeles

Their work included not only development of the now famous GIA D-to-Z Color Scale and GIA Clarity Scale for diamonds, but also the scientific methods and procedures for objectively grading a diamond’s quality.

A 2.78 carat (ct) D-color round brilliant diamond that is internally flawless is a wonder of nature. GIA invented the color- and clarity-grading terminology that is now used internationally to describe diamond quality. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co. Inc.

Color: The GIA D-to-Z Color Scale

Before the 4Cs and RTL’s contributions, a confusing alphabet soup was used to describe a diamond’s color. In communicating color quality to consumers, retailers used competing systems with descriptors like “A,” “AA” and “AAA.” There was virtually no agreement among firms as to what was considered an “A” grade. Most diamond wholesalers used terms like rarest white and top Wesselton, in addition to those mentioned above. In short, there were no standards that allowed for consistent evaluation and comparison.

Since the 1930s, GIA had been working on an accurate, objective color-grading system for colorless to light yellow diamonds. The goal was to develop a system based on absolutes, instead of relative terms and vague descriptions. In 1953, GIA, under RTL’s direction, introduced the GIA D-to-Z color scale, choosing the letter “D” for the top grade (colorless) precisely because the letter had negative associations and so was unlikely to be misinterpreted or misused.

GIA’s D-to-Z Color Scale is the industry standard for grading the color of colorless to light yellow diamonds.

In addition to establishing a color scale, RTL and his colleagues defined the methods that would be used to grade a diamond’s color accurately and consistently. These included determining the type of lighting and neutral background with which a diamond should be evaluated, prescribing precisely how the diamond should be held and viewed, and developing master stones: sets of diamonds of predetermined color value against which the subject diamond is carefully compared.

The D-to-Z diamond color terminology RTL and his colleagues pioneered is now used around the world, and strict color-grading procedures are followed by the GIA laboratory.

This engagement ring has a 1 ct center stone surrounded by four diamond side stones. Melee diamonds in a halo setting frame the design and continue down the shoulders of the ring.

Understanding the 4Cs is essential if you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring. This one has a 1 ct center stone surrounded by four diamond side stones. Melee diamonds in a halo setting frame the design and continue down the shoulders of the ring. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades that range from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3).

Clarity: The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale – Flawless to I₃

Diamond clarity grading was another area that was plagued by inconsistencies in terminology and methods. Some trade professionals used terms like perfect in addition to without flaws and with imperfections, which were vague and imprecise. Others used terms we recognize today, such as VS, VVS, and included, but without any agreed-upon definitions. RTL and Benson used these terms in creating a clarity-grading scale, but defined precise categories and expanded the number of grades within each category to account for the array of diamonds in the market. Fine-tuned in subsequent years, the GIA Clarity Scale today consists of six categories ranging from Flawless to Included and contains 11 specific grades.

This precision in clarity grading was made possible by another GIA innovation: the introduction of the gemological microscope as a tool for clarity grading. Using the microscope, GIA graders plot the inclusions and blemishes in all diamonds for which a full GIA Diamond Grading Report has been requested.

A plotting diagram, a feature of all GIA Diamond Grading Reports, uses specific symbols to map a diamond’s various inclusions and blemishes.

Cut: Evaluating a Diamond’s Interaction with Light

The impact of Cut – how well a diamond interacts with light – was another attribute that RTL and his associates wanted to better explain and standardize. Originally, RTL turned to the work of Belgian mathematician and diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky to help determine “ideal” proportions for a round brilliant cut diamond. RTL’s contribution included a rating system with deductions for proportions that deviated from those.

Because of GIA’s efforts to standardize the evaluation of diamond cut, round brilliants such as these can now be objectively graded. Courtesy: Supreme Jewelry

GIA’s system for evaluating cut has been modified over the decades. In 2006, after years of extensive research that included advanced computer modeling and observational studies, GIA introduced the GIA cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds. Today, the GIA Cut Scale, ranging from Excellent to Poor, describes how successfully a diamond interacts with light to deliver the brightness, fire and scintillation we associate with a fine round brilliant.

The GIA Cut Scale assesses the overall cut quality of each diamond individually, taking into account such features as proportions, table size, polish and symmetry.

Many factors contribute to the evaluation of a diamond’s cut, including the size of the facets, girdle thickness and total depth.

More than the 4Cs: The World Standard

Using the latest scientific advances to establish grading standards that provide consistent, repeatable results, GIA has revolutionized the jewelry industry. With the framework provided by the 4Cs, it has transformed the way diamond quality is determined and communicated and, ultimately, how diamonds are bought and sold.

These standards are strictly followed by the GIA laboratory in its nine locations worldwide. They allow GIA to deliver objective, consistent diamond grading results anywhere in the world. It is important to note that although the terminology introduced by GIA has been adopted by other laboratories worldwide, only the GIA laboratory has the proprietary equipment and procedures to grade diamonds to these standards.

All this critical information becomes part of a GIA Diamond Grading Report. With it, you’ll know the essential facts about the diamond you’re considering.

1.37 ct H-color, VS1-clarity round brilliant in a platinum Tiffany & Co. setting.

The GIA Diamond Grading System provides a complete description of diamonds such as this 1.37 ct H-color, VS1-clarity round brilliant in a platinum Tiffany & Co. setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Why ask for a GIA Diamond Grading Report? Read more and decide for yourself.

Eight Common Diamond Engagement Ring Myths —Demystified

August 17, 2017

There’s no shortage of engagement ring myths. Here are some of the more common ones: Bigger diamonds always look better than smaller ones. Round brilliants are the best. Diamonds are unbreakable. True? False? We investigate these myths and deliver the facts.

In this blog, we examine the following engagement ring myths:

A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better
Any Diamond Will Sparkle
I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant
Diamonds Can’t Break
Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break
I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail
Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad
A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

Myth #1: A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better

A common myth about engagement rings is that a bigger diamond has a better face-up appearance than a smaller one. But just because a diamond is big doesn’t mean it will have more brightness, fire and scintillation. A small diamond can have mesmerizing sparkle, while a large diamond can look dull. How a diamond performs under light is a function of its cut, not its carat weight. So, debunking one of the biggest myths about engagement rings, a bigger diamond is not necessarily a better one.

Myth #2: Any Diamond Will Sparkle

A common misconception about diamond engagement rings is that every diamond sparkles. A diamond’s cut – how its facets interact with light – creates its sparkle. Precise artistry and workmanship are required to fashion a stone so its proportions, symmetry and polish deliver the magnificent return of light. A diamond with a poor cut will have little to no sparkle.

A diamond’s cut greatly affects its appearance, as these three round brilliants illustrate. From left to right, they received cut grades of: Poor, Good and Excellent. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

You can turn to a GIA Diamond Grading Report, a GIA Diamond Origin Report or GIA Diamond Dossier for an objective evaluation of the cut of a round brilliant diamond. A GIA cut grade of Good or better will deliver the sparkle you’re expecting.

It’s worth mentioning that dirt is the enemy of sparkle. Just as a dirty mirror will reflect poorly, so will diamond facets that have skin oils, lotion and other substances on them. Keeping your diamond clean is key to keeping it sparkling.

The sparkle of this E color 0.61 ct round brilliant is dulled by oil and dirt. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

What a difference a cleaning makes. Oils have been removed from the same diamond, and it now has a scintillating sparkle. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

The takeaway from all of this: If you want a diamond that sparkles, make sure it is cut well; if it is a round brilliant, look for one with a cut grade of Good or better on its GIA Diamond Grading Report. Once it is yours, keep it clean. This way, the engagement ring will be noticed and admired.

Myth #3: I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant

A round brilliant diamond is the most popular shape and cut for engagement rings. About half of all brides wear one. And for good reason: It’s beautiful, appealing and can have spectacular brightness, fire and scintillation.

Simply enchanting and enchantingly simple, this six-prong ring with a 1.37 ct H color diamond is sure to win the heart of a bride to be.

But do you need to buy a round brilliant? Consider that about half of all brides wear engagement rings set with diamond shapes other than round brilliants. These fancy shapes can be just as beautiful and deserve your consideration. And some might even cost less per carat than a round brilliant. Some of the more popular fancy shape diamonds include: the princess cut, marquise, cushion cut and emerald cut. Ovals are currently popular and can have bewitching sparkle. So, the myth that only a round brilliant diamond makes for a beautiful engagement ring is untrue! Other diamond shapes are just as popular, and just as beautiful.

A princess cut diamond can rival the brightness of a round brilliant. Square or rectangular in shape, the princess cut also looks a bit different, like this 1.03 ct beauty in a four-prong setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone.

Supposedly named after the Marquise de Pompadour because its outline resembled the shape of her mouth, the marquise diamond is rich in beauty and lore. This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

The cushion cut diamond traces its roots to the 1700s, and the passage of time hasn’t dimmed its beauty. Its appeal is easy to see in this engagement ring, which features a 7.82 ct cushion cut center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This 2.71 ct diamond showcases the stately beauty of an emerald cut, The center diamond is accentuated by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Romance and sparkle abound in this three stone platinum engagement ring featuring a 1.57 ct oval diamond center stone. Photo: GIA

Myth #4: Diamonds Can’t Break

Diamond is the hardest gem material on earth and is impervious to virtually all acids. It can also withstand higher temperatures than most gemstones. But if a diamond cutter can purposely cleave (split) a diamond by giving it a sharp blow in the right direction, you can achieve the same result if you accidentally hit it hard enough in the right place.

Cleavage planes in diamond occur because carbon atoms parallel to these planes are more tightly bonded (that is, tougher) than the atoms between the planes. A cleavage plane is the weakest direction in the molecular arrangement of a diamond crystal, and it always parallels one of the crystal’s triangular faces. If a diamond is hit hard along one of these planes, it can chip or fracture.

Chips typically occur when the girdle edge or an exposed point, like the tip of a pear shape or marquise, strikes something hard. Diamonds being unbreakable is simply a myth. Storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can also cause chips, scratches or other damage. Certain diamond cuts with pointed corners, like the princess cut, are particularly vulnerable and are often set with V-shaped prongs positioned over the corners to protect them from chipping.

This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet.

Diamonds are known for their hardness – their ability to resist scratches and abrasions. But contrary to some diamond engagement ring myths, diamonds are not impervious to damage, since their hardness varies depending on the crystal direction. This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet. Photo: GIA

This illustration shows examples of cleavage planes parallel to the triangular octahedral face of a diamond. Illustration modified from V. C. Venkatesh and S. Izman, Precision Engineering, 2007, p. 54.

Myth #5: Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break

Of all the diamond engagement ring myths covered here, there is some truth to this one. Inclusions are clarity characteristics that lie within a diamond. Inclusions in themselves won’t necessarily cause a diamond to break. But if they’re located on or near a cleavage plane or another vulnerable area like a girdle or culet, they could make the diamond more prone to chipping.

This diamond is marred by a chip, which may have been caused by an inclusion located on or near a cleavage plane or the girdle. Photo: GIA

Myth #6: I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail

This is one of those engagement ring myths that really demands your due diligence and some research. It’s tempting to think that you’ll get a better price buying a diamond from “a friend of a friend,” through an online auction, or directly from a wholesaler or dealer. After all, you think, these sellers have lower overhead, so they should also have a lower markup — with these savings passed along to you. You may be right. However, it pays to comparison shop, taking into account all the costs associated with purchasing an engagement ring.

Whether you decide to buy your diamond from a traditional brick and mortar retailer or through another channel, be sure to look for some basic consumer protections: a minimum 30-day period for refunds or exchanges, quality guarantees, and diamonds accompanied by grading reports from a reputable lab. Any seller failing to provide these basic services may be offering a deal that’s too good to be true.

Buying from a traditional retailer may offer some additional advantages. A jeweler’s expertise is invaluable in helping you select both the diamond and the right setting for it. And many retailers offer discounted diamond-and-ring packages. Many also offer cleaning, repair and maintenance as long as you own the ring, as well as insurance and even trade-in programs should you want to up-grade your diamond in the future. In the end, you may find that the savings offered by other types of sellers are negated by the package discount and additional services offered by a retailer.

All this is to say that you have more options than ever when it comes to buying a diamond. Just be careful and smart, as you would with any important purchase.

Myth #7: Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad

This is one of the more common engagement ring myths – here are the facts: Diamond fluorescence is neither good nor bad. It is a naturally occurring characteristic that a diamond may possess. Some people like the blue (or rarely another color) glow that some diamonds emit when exposed to long-way ultraviolet (UV) light such as that from the sun and fluorescent lamps. Whether you choose a diamond with fluorescence is a matter of personal preference.

Fluorescence is common: Between 25% and 35% of the diamonds on the market exhibit some degree of fluorescence, which GIA grading reports describe as None, Faint, Medium, Strong or Very Strong. It’s worth noting that fluorescence is not considered a quality factor like the 4Cs (color, clarity, cut and carat weight). The extent of a diamond’s fluorescence is included in a grading report as additional information to help in identifying that particular diamond.

Blue is by far the most common fluorescence color in diamonds when they are exposed to long-wave UV rays. Half the necklace and one earring in this composite photo are shown under normal lighting conditions (left), and the other half of the necklace and the same earring are shown as they appear under a long-wave ultraviolet lamp (right). Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt. Courtesy: Harry Winston, Inc., New York

You may have heard the myth about engagement rings that the fluorescence affects a diamond’s color grade. Not true. GIA color grades diamonds under tightly controlled lighting conditions designed to eliminate any effect from fluorescence. So it has no impact on the color grade assigned. However, the strength of a diamond’s fluorescence can influence your perception of the diamond’s color when viewed with certain types of lighting. For example, in bright sunshine some diamonds with a Medium to Strong blue fluorescence may appear more colorless. In rare cases, diamonds with Very Strong fluorescence may have a hazy or oily appearance; less than 0.2% of fluorescent diamonds exhibit this effect.

GIA’s research discovered that for the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, blue fluorescence had no systematic effect on a diamond’s face-up appearance. Even experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.

Myth #8: A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

One of the older engagement ring myths, this one dates back to the 1950s. It’s been debunked before, but it’s worth negating again. The fact is, there is no hard and fast rule on how much you should spend on a diamond engagement ring. You need to determine what you can afford, set a budget and stick to it. By learning a little bit about diamonds, including the 4Cs of diamond quality and doing some comparison shopping, you’ll be able to choose a diamond of the best quality for your budget. Remember, at the end of the day the ultimate value of a diamond isn’t what it costs, but the love that goes into giving it.

The Allure of an Oval Diamond

May 23, 2017

An oval diamond has an elongated round shape that evokes an understated elegance, but with a difference. When it is faceted in the brilliant style, its fire can rival that of a round brilliant. So get ready to pick the perfect oval diamond.

In this blog, we cover:
Anatomy of an Oval Diamond
History of the Oval Diamond
Famous Oval Diamonds
What to Look for in an Oval Diamond
Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

Anatomy of an Oval Diamond

An oval diamond is a fancy shape. You can think of it as a round brilliant diamond stretched on its sides, or a rounded version of a cushion shape or cushion brilliant. To pick a beautiful oval diamond, you need to know its parts.

Head or end: The “tips” of the oval.

Shoulder: The curved area reaching from the head/end to the belly.

Belly: The central area where the sides curve out the most.

An illustration showing the anatomy of an oval diamond

Knowing the anatomy of an oval diamond will help you pick one you love. Illustration: GIA

You’ll typically find oval diamonds cut in the brilliant faceting style, which means the diamond has 57 or 58 facets, like a standard round brilliant, giving it similar visual qualities. An oval diamond can have a variety of facet arrangements, but the most common is eight bezel facets on the crown combined with eight main facets on the pavilion.

Line diagram of an oval diamond’s crown and pavilion views.

A common facet arrangement for oval diamonds: eight bezel facets on the crown, pictured in light blue (left); eight main pavilion facets, pictured in dark blue (right). Illustration: GIA

There are compelling reasons why many people love oval diamonds: Because the oval diamond has a larger surface area than a round diamond of equal carat weight, it can appear larger to the eye. The oval shape can make the finger seem longer. And because the shape doesn’t have sharp angles or corners, an oval diamond is less prone to chipping compared to other fancy shapes.

History of the Oval Diamond

The brilliant faceting style was first introduced circa 1700. Brilliant-cut cushion shaped diamonds predominated because cutters tended to follow the outline of the rough crystal. But diamonds were available in a variety of shapes, including oval. At this time, diamonds were not described by their shapes – they were simply called “brilliants.” It isn’t until the late 1800s that we first see mention of oval diamonds in literature.

Modern appeal for the oval diamond began in 1957. The oval diamond enjoyed a resurgence between 1998 and 2001, driven in part by marketing campaigns, and now it’s making a comeback. According to Town & Country magazine, the oval diamond ranked 6th in popularity with American consumers in 2016 (round diamonds were still no. 1).

Famous Oval Diamonds

The 105.60 carat (ct) Koh-i-Noor is probably the most famous oval diamond. It was so valuable that it was said that “whoever owned the Koh-i-Noor ruled the world.” Following centuries in the possession of rulers from Persia and India, the diamond was presented to Britain’s Queen Victoria on July 3, 1850. It is now set in the Queen Mother’s crown, which was fashioned for Queen Elizabeth, wife of George VI (and mother of Elizabeth II), for their 1937 coronation. You can see it in the Tower of London with the other Crown Jewels.

The 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff (long known as the Wittelsbach Blue) is another famous oval diamond with a royal provenance. The rough probably came from India’s famed Golconda District. In about 1666, it was given as part of a dowry for the marriage of Infanta Margarita Teresa of Spain into the House of Hapsburg. In 1722, it was used again as part of a dowry, this time for a marriage into the House of Wittelsbach. In 1931, the Wittelsbach Blue vanished from sight and was hidden for 30 years, until it was rediscovered in 1961. After it was sold at auction for $24.3 million in December 2008 to London Jeweler Lawrence Graff, the original 35.56 ct cushion modified brilliant diamond was recut to a 31.06 ct oval to make it a Fancy Deep blue, Internally Flawless gem, and was renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff.

Pictured here is the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, recut from the historic Wittelsbach Blue. The recut diamond was graded Fancy Deep blue according to GIA’s colored diamond color grading system. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Another oval diamond made international news in April 2017, when Hong Kong jeweler Chow Tai Fook bought a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond for $71.2 million. Known to many as the Pink Star or Steinmetz Pink, it became the most expensive diamond ever sold at auction. The retailer renamed it the CTF Pink Star. The diamond was mined in Botswana in 1999. It took cutters two years to turn the 132.50 ct rough into its final shape.

The Pink Star, a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink oval diamond

The Pink Star, now called the CTF Pink Star, smashed auction records when it sold for $71.2 million in April 2017. The 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond is a stunning example of an oval shaped diamond. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to Look for in an Oval Diamond

Turn to the 4Cs of diamond quality when shopping for an oval diamond. GIA uses the same criteria for determining carat weight, color and clarity for oval diamonds as it does for round brilliants. This can help you narrow your search.

Length-to-Width Ratio

Keep proportion in mind when looking at oval diamonds. Consumers and trade professionals tend to prefer a longer oval shape, according to a comprehensive survey of shape preferences GIA conducted in 2009. The survey showed that the most popular length-to-width ratio for ovals was 1.7:1. However, it is not practical to cut such long oval diamonds from the original rough, so you’ll rarely find one. More typical are ovals with ratios ranging from 1.3:1 to 1.4:1.

This 1.06 ct oval diamond has a 1.71:1 length-to-width ratio. It is rare to find oval diamonds this long. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 3.01 ct oval diamond with a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio

This 3.01 ct oval diamond has a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio, which is a little shorter than most oval diamonds. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 2.28 ct oval diamond with a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio

This 2.28 ct oval diamond has a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio. Even this length is a little hard to find. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

Symmetry

Symmetry is important in creating the beauty of an oval diamond. To determine if an oval diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line down the center. The shape and faceting of the two halves should mirror each other. Then draw an imaginary line across the middle of the oval. Again, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

Symmetry is based on how closely the shape and facets on either side of these imaginary center lines mirror each other. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval diamond surrounded by two halos of melee diamonds

The allure of an oval diamond is easy to see in this 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval. The two halos surrounding it contain D-to-F color melee diamonds totaling 1.20 carats. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Shape Appeal

Look for an oval diamond with a graceful outline and harmoniously proportioned parts. To find one that’s attractive to you, it pays to compare several different oval diamonds. Here are some common shape variations:

This oval cut has flat shoulders, which many in GIA’s survey considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

This oval cut has bulging shoulders – an aspect that many of those surveyed also considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

This oval cut has no shoulder bulge. Its overall symmetry and well-proportioned shape contribute to its visual appeal. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Girdle Thickness

The girdle is the intersection of the crown and pavilion. It defines the perimeter of the diamond and functions as its setting edge. Girdle thickness is judged the same way in fancy shapes as in rounds. Be sure to look at the diamond’s proportion diagram in its GIA Diamond Grading Report. The diagram will show the stone’s average girdle thickness percentage and indicate if the girdle is too thick or too thin. An overly thick girdle can contribute to a heavier diamond than its face-up appearance warrants, and a thin girdle can increase the risk of damage such as chipping.

Bow-tie Effect

Expect to see a bow tie. A “bow tie” in diamond parlance is a dark bow-shaped pattern across the table of the diamond.

What causes a bow tie? A diamond’s facets act like a series of mirrors that gather light from around you and return it to your eye. As you look at the stone, the dark contrast you see is a reflection of your head and shoulders blocking light from entering the diamond. The closer your face is to the diamond, the more pronounced the bow tie will be.

If the diamond is cut well, the bow tie will be minimal, but once you are in front of the diamond, there will always be some measure of a bow tie.

An illustration of an oval diamond showing the bow-tie effect

The grayed-out area across the table in this illustration is where you’ll likely see the bow-tie effect. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

You’ll have lots of choices for engagement ring settings for oval diamonds. And each setting can create a dramatically different look. Here are some options.

Halo Setting

A halo of smaller diamonds around the oval center stone is a lovely addition. It accentuates the shape and makes the diamond appear larger. Choosing a different color of metal or side stones can create an arresting look.

A 10.92 ct oval diamond engagement ring, accented with a halo of Fancy pink melee diamonds

A mesmerizing sight, this oval diamond engagement ring features a 10.92 ct center stone, accented with a halo of fancy pink melee diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Prong Setting

Prong settings are good choices for an oval diamond. Not only do they protect the diamond from loss, but they can also add height, raising the diamond from the band and drawing the eye to the gem.

An oval diamond makes a dramatic statement in a prong setting. A halo of smaller diamonds adds even more panache. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting, which completely encloses the perimeter of the diamond in metal, is a great choice if you lead an active life. It’s an effective way to protect the diamond and also enhances the beauty of the oval shape.

A 0.84 ct oval shape diamond sits in a platinum bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Side Stones

An oval diamond goes well with virtually any kind of side stone. Half-moon diamonds echo its shape, so they can be an attractive choice. Baguettes and tapered baguettes offer an opportunity to create contrast, as do colored gems. If you want your diamond side stones to match the center oval, choose side stones that are within one or two color grades of the larger diamond so they don’t compete with its beauty.

Contrasting colors and shapes bring life to this engagement ring. It features a 0.90 ct oval center stone, flanked by two round sapphires and round diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Wide Band

Because of its shape, an oval diamond works well with a wider band.

An oval diamond three stone engagement ring

Three oval diamonds look at home in a wide band. It especially suits the 1.57 ct center stone. Courtesy: EraGem.com

An oval diamond is beautiful…classic…and a little different. It’s a wonderful option for an engagement ring.

If you’re looking to create a diamond engagement ring that’s out of the ordinary, there are many more fancy shapes to choose from. A marquise diamond just might be for you.

Melee Diamonds: Tiny Diamonds, Big Impact

April 11, 2017

Look at a beautiful engagement ring and you might see small diamonds, called melee diamonds (pronounced meh-lee), that accent the center diamond and make the ring pop. Melee diamonds are a popular way to add sparkle to diamond engagement rings.

So what do you need to know about melee diamonds to make an informed purchase?

In this post we’ll cover:
What Are Melee Diamonds
How Melee Diamonds Are Cut
Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds
Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

What Are Melee Diamonds?

GIA defines melee as small diamonds, either single cut or full cut (see definitions below), weighing less than 1/5 carat (ct). However, the exact size range of melee varies from country to country and from one segment of the trade to another. Melee diamonds can be as small as 0.001 ct (1/1000 of a carat). They are often cut into tiny round diamonds and set around a center stone or on the band.

Hundreds of melee diamonds glitter on a table, waiting to be sorted. Photo: GIA

How Are Melee Diamonds Cut?

Melee diamonds are produced in large quantities in factories that use the latest diamond cutting equipment. High-tech machines have reduced the amount of labor required and improved the quality of the finished product, but cutting and sorting melee is still a labor intensive business. The city of Surat in India is an important manufacturing hub for diamonds, including melee which are faceted, sorted, and sold in parcels of 100 carats or more to jewelry manufacturers who then set them in a wide array of jewelry.

Typical faceting styles for melee include:

Single cut: A cutting style with a round girdle outline and 17 or 18 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including a table, eight crown facets, eight pavilion facets and (very rarely) a culet
Full cut: A round brilliant-cut with 57 or 58 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including 32 crown facets, 24 pavilion facets, a table and (usually) a culet

Sorting small rough diamonds by hand at Alrosa’s Lomonosov mine, Arkhangel, Russian Federation. Photo: Russ Shor/GIA

Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds

The more diamonds in a ring, the more sparkle it has. Due to their small size, melee diamonds are inexpensive when compared to larger diamond center stones, so they are often generously used in engagement ring designs to add sparkle. You’ll also find them as dazzling accents in watch faces, earrings and pendants – really in any piece of jewelry that calls for added sparkle and brilliance.

Halo setting: Melee diamonds are the building blocks for this popular setting, where tiny diamonds encircle the center stone. This style can add sparkle to a ring and draw attention to the center stone and make it appear larger.

Engagement ring featuring a halo setting of melee diamonds.

A halo of melee diamonds makes this engagement ring all the more dazzling. Courtesy: Ziva

Pavé setting: Pronounced “pah-vey” from the French for “to pave,” is a style of bead setting in which many small gems, like melee diamonds, are set close together to create an interlocking honeycomb pattern. It makes for a dramatic, sparkling look and it’s a setting style often used to make complex designs in engagement rings and other jewelry.

Cluster ring featuring 3.35 carats of diamonds in a pavé setting.

Pavé is the central design element in this cluster ring, pavé set with 3.35 carats of diamonds. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

The pavé technique also allows for the creation of more affordable engagement rings, as small diamonds are generally less expensive than larger ones of comparable quality. So an engagement ring with pavé may be a good alternative for those on a budget.

Melee diamond and center stone engagement ring.

Melee diamonds transform a simple design into an intricate work of art. Courtesy: Laurence Bruyninckx – Antwerp

Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

While you’ll have to make decisions about the color, clarity, cut, and carat weight of your diamond center stone, it’s unlikely you’ll have to select the melee for your engagement ring. Melee diamonds are sorted by color and clarity prior to being packaged into parcels and sold to jewelry manufacturers, who will then match them to the diamond center stone.

An independent diamond grading report is a must-have for your diamond center stone given its cost and any reputable jeweler will provide one. A grading report is your assurance that your diamond is natural and discloses any known treatments that may have altered its color or clarity. However, don’t expect to receive grading reports for your melee diamonds. There are a number of reasons why, but the overriding one is economic: The cost of grading for melee is too high in relation to their value. Melee are sold in large parcels often containing hundreds of diamonds so it is not practical to have each one graded.

Carat Weight vs Total Carat Weight

When buying a diamond engagement ring with melee diamonds, it’s important to understand the difference between “carat weight” and “total carat weight,” because diamond weight is a driving factor in determining price. Total carat weight, often abbreviated “tcw” in the jewelry industry, is used to describe the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds. The description carat weight, abbreviated “ct,” only applies to an individual stone, like the center stone. A ring with many small diamonds with a combined total weight of 2.50 carats (or tcw) can cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring with a single diamond weighing 2.50 ct. That’s because larger diamonds are more rare than smaller ones of comparable quality, and therefore they cost more per carat.

Piaget Limelight ladies watch featuring 4.37 carats of melee diamonds.

Shining like stars in the night sky, some 4.37 carats of melee diamonds twinkle in this luxurious Piaget Limelight tonneau-shaped ladies watch. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

The sparkle in your engagement ring telegraphs your love to the world. Melee diamonds can make it glow a bit brighter. But if you’re looking to add even more sparkle to your engagement ring, you can go beyond melee diamonds with these additional engagement ring tips.

April Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Diamonds

April 4, 2017

Diamond does double-duty: it’s the April birthstone and a near-universal symbol of love. So if you were born in April, you have two reasons to adore the gem. Here’s a crash course on it – and tips for picking a beautiful one.

In this post, we’ll cover:
Gemological Information on Diamonds
Diamond History
Diamond Lore
Where Diamonds Come From
Qualities to Look for in a Diamond
Diamond Care & Cleaning

April Birthstone: Gemological Information on Diamonds

The hardest natural material on earth, diamond ranks 10 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness and is the only gem made of a single element: It is typically about 99.95 percent carbon. The other 0.05 percent can include one or more trace elements, which are atoms that aren’t part of a diamond’s essential chemistry. Some trace elements can influence its color or crystal shape. For example, the presence of nitrogen causes diamonds to appear yellow. Boron atoms are often responsible for the color of natural blue diamonds.

Your pulse may quicken admiring this heart-shaped natural Fancy Intense yellow diamond. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

The Blue Empress, a 14 carat Fancy Vivid blue diamond.

Say goodbye to the blues when you admire the Blue Empress, a 14 carat (ct) Fancy Vivid blue diamond. Courtesy: Steinmetz Diamonds

Diamonds form under high temperature and pressure that exist only within a specific depth range (about 100 miles; 160 kilometers) beneath the earth’s surface. The conditions are extreme: Temperatures must be between 2102oF to 2192oF (1150 to 1200 0C); the pressure must be between 50 and 70 kilobars – 50,000 to 70,000 times greater than atmospheric air pressure at sea level. Carbon atoms in this environment in the mantle may form diamond.

A diamond’s hardness is due to the way the carbon atoms bond. Diamond’s crystal structure is isometric, which means the carbon atoms are bonded in essentially the same way in all directions. Graphite, a mineral used to make pencil lead, is also made of carbon, but because the molecules bond differently, this mineral is not nearly as hard.

Gemologists love diamonds because they are beautiful – and because many formed more than a billion years ago. Studying these ancient beauties tell us much about our planet.

April Birthstone: Diamond History

Our love for diamonds started in India, where they were gathered from the country’s rivers and streams. Traded as early as the fourth century BCE, diamonds were coveted by the wealthy. Caravans brought Indian diamonds, along with other exotic merchandise, to medieval markets in Venice. By the 1400s, diamonds were becoming fashionable accessories for Europe’s elite.

This 4 ct old mine cut diamond comes from India’s famed Golconda mines. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Sudhir Jain (Fei)

In the early 1700s, as India’s diamond supplies began to decline, Brazil emerged as an important source. Diamonds were discovered when gold miners sifted through the gravels of local rivers. The country dominated the diamond market for more than 150 years.

The first great South African diamond deposits were unearthed in the late 1800s. The 1866 discovery of diamonds in Kimberley, South Africa, marked the beginning of the modern diamond market. Entrepreneur Cecil Rhodes established De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited in 1888 and, by 1900, De Beers controlled an estimated 90 percent of the world’s production of rough diamonds.

At the end of the 1970s, South Africa, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (previously known as Zaire) and the former Soviet Union were the world’s most important rough diamond producers. In 1982, a highly productive new mine in Botswana added to world production, making the country third in the world in total diamond recovery and second in diamond value. Diamond mining expanded dramatically with the discovery of sources in Australia in 1985 and important new diamond deposits in northern Canada in 2000.

A 8.52 ct rough diamond crystal from the Kao Mine, Lesotho, Africa waits to be transformed into a breathtaking faceted diamond. Photo: Eric Welch/GIA. Courtesy: Fusion Alternatives

April Birthstone: Diamond Lore

An anonymous second-century poet believed diamond warded off the evil eye – a malevolent look believed to cause sickness, poverty and even death. Diamond was even believed to have healing powers. Over the centuries, diamond was thought to be an antidote to poison; a protection against the plague; and a boon for longevity, strength, beauty and happiness.

One look at Jason Dow’s spectacular diamond Empress ring will make you believe that the April birthstone is the cure for all ills. Courtesy: Jason Dow

In addition to being the April birthstone, diamond is the gift of choice for the 60th and 75th wedding anniversaries. And, of course, the diamond engagement ring has become a near-universal symbol of love and marriage.

There are many famous diamonds. The Taylor-Burton Diamond, the Cullinan II, the Portuguese, the Jubilee and the Koh-i-Noor are just a few breathtaking examples.

Taylor-Burton 69.42 carat, D color, Flawless pear-shaped diamond.

The Taylor-Burton diamond is a 69.42 ct, D color, Flawless, pear-shaped gem. This April birthstone sold for US$1.05 million in 1969. Courtesy: Mouawad

April Birthstone: Where Diamonds Come From

Diamonds are now mined around the world – from Angola to Zimbabwe. However, the five largest producers of diamonds account for the vast majority of global production.

Top Diamond Producing Countries – 2015

Country	Rough Diamond Production
Russian Federation	41.9 million carats
Botswana	20.7 million carats
Democratic Republic of the Congo	16.0 million carats
Australia	13.5 million carats
Canada	11.6 million carats

Source:The Kimberly Process

Diamond mining in eastern Siberia reads like an adventure novel. The setting: tundra, frigid temperatures and short days. The props: jet engines and explosives used to heat and soften the ice covering kimberlite pipes – vertical, columnar masses of igneous rock that can be a primary source for diamonds. The story line: In 2013, Alrosa, a Russian diamond mining company, estimated that there were 970 million carats still waiting to be found in the frozen tundra.

Diamonds in Botswana lie below the eastern plains of the country. These prolific mines have been a boon to the economy, creating a growing middle class. The country is also a diamond hub, where approximately 40% of the world’s supply of rough diamonds are sorted and valued.

The Jwaneng diamond mine is one of the most productive in the world. Photo: John Hummel/GIA.

April Birthstone: Qualities to Look for in a Diamond

Until the middle of the twentieth century, there was no agreed-upon standard by which diamonds could be judged. GIA created the 4Cs of Diamond Quality – the first, and now globally accepted standard for describing diamonds.

Color: In most diamonds, the term refers to the absence of color. The less color in the stone, the more desirable it is. Differences can be subtle and difficult for the untrained eye to see, but directly impact the overall quality and value of the stone.
Clarity: Is a measure of the amount, size and placement of internal characteristics, called inclusions, and external characteristics, called blemishes. Grades run from ‘Flawless,’ with virtually no inclusions visible under 10× magnification, to ‘Included,’ which contain obvious inclusions.
Cut: Cut does not refer to a diamond’s shape, but to its proportions and the arrangement of its facets and the quality of workmanship. The amount of brilliance, sparkle and fire in a diamond is determined by cut. Cut grades range from ‘Excellent’ to ‘Poor.’
Carat: This measurement describes a diamond’s weight. Generally speaking, the higher the carat weight, the more expensive the stone. Two diamonds of equal carat weight, however, can have very different qualities and values when the other three Cs are considered.M

Three stone diamond ring totaling 15 carats.

This impressive three-stone ring has 15 carats of diamonds, set in platinum. Courtesy: Rahaminov

April Birthstone: Diamond Care and Cleaning

Clean your diamond by wiping it with a lint-free cloth; or use warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush or a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. Also have your diamond jewelry periodically cleaned and its setting examined by a professional jeweler to maintain its beauty and integrity over time.

Yellow gold earrings set with rough diamonds.

Rough diamonds have been enjoying their moment in the spotlight. They capture another side of the gem’s beauty. Courtesy: Petra Class

Now that you’ve learned something about diamonds, you’ll be a smarter shopper. And maybe you’ll have a greater appreciation for the April birthstone.

Thinking about buying a diamond? Our diamond buying guide can help you pick a stunning one.

How to Get the Most Diamond Sparkle

January 24, 2017

Diamond sparkle might be one of the most-desired requirements for an engagement ring. A diamond’s breathtaking light show is one of the reasons we love this gem. But finding a diamond that sparkles requires some knowledge. So let’s get to it!

In this post, we’ll cover:
What Makes a Diamond Sparkle
How to Choose a Diamond that Sparkles
Maximize Diamond Sparkle – What Works/What Doesn’t

A pavé set diamond halo surrounds a center stone. The diamonds weigh a total of 1.46 carats.

A pavé set diamond halo surrounds a center stone, creating numerous opportunities for sparkle. The diamonds weigh a total of 1.46 carats. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

What Makes a Diamond Sparkle?

The short answer: light’s interaction with a diamond’s cut. The type and quality of the cut govern how a diamond reacts to the light around it. The angles and relative measurements of a diamond’s facets, as well as its other proportions, have a dramatic effect on how light performs when it strikes a diamond.

The long answer: You probably use the word “sparkle” in a very general way to describe the overall visual effect of a diamond’s interaction with light. But gemologists who have closely studied diamond’s signature light show break it down this way:

When light enters a diamond, it travels through it, reflecting off its interior surfaces, called facets. It then either leaves the diamond as white light, called brightness, or it divides into the spectral colors of the rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet, called fire.

Light leaving a diamond as spectral colors can be quite breathtaking. Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt.

As you or the diamond moves, an effect called scintillation occurs – visible as alternating flashes of white and spectral-colored light and the contrast of dark and light that moves around the diamond. This contrast is dynamic and causes, in layperson’s terms, sparkle.

How to Choose a Diamond that Sparkles

Since diamond sparkle is all about how well the stone interacts with light, the environment in which you view the diamond and the diamond’s cut quality are critical.

1. Be sure to examine the diamond under four different light sources. Spot lighting (or a lot of individual light sources) is the best way to see all the elements that produce sparkle. However, if there are too many spot lights and they are too bright, there will be so much glare that one diamond will look just as good as any other.

To avoid this, observe the diamond in an environment where the spot lighting is not overwhelming. Then look at the diamond in diffused lighting — fluorescent lights that bounce light off a white ceiling are best. Third, try to view it in a mixed lighting environment of spotlights and diffused lighting. And, finally, don’t forget to view the diamond in natural daylight.

Learn more about how light affects the appearance of a diamond.

A 1.52 carat (ct) round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

A 1.52 carat (ct) round brilliant diamond is a visual delight in this engagement ring. Courtesy: EraGem

2. Pay attention to cutting style. The more facets a diamond has, the more reflective surfaces there are to bounce and scatter light. A round brilliant cut diamond with its 57 or 58 facets will appear to have more sparkle than a single-cut diamond with only 17 or 18 facets. Learn how to pick a round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

If you have your heart set on a shape other than round, you can still get the sparkle if you look for diamond shapes cut in the brilliant faceting style. These include princess, radiant, oval, pear, heart and marquise.

This 8.06 ct Asscher cut diamond from Cartier, circa 1935, is spectacular. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Pay attention to cut quality. There’s another solution for standard round brilliants, if you’re unsure about judging a diamond’s sparkle. A GIA Diamond Grading Report can be of great value in finding a diamond that sparkles. GIA issues one of five cut grades for a round brilliant diamond: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.

A diamond with an Excellent cut grade is very bright. It shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas, so the reflections appear crisp and well balanced. This tells you that the cutter created the best possible stone from the rough.

A Very Good cut grade means the diamond has bright areas evenly distributed across the stone’s crown and few distracting areas.

A diamond with a Good cut grade isn’t quite as bright – reflections aren’t as sharp and there’s more darkness or dullness in the diamond.

A diamond with a Poor cut grade has much more prominent dark areas or dullness. Given the choice, most people would pick diamonds with either Very Good or Excellent grades.

This diamond has an Excellent cut grade: It is very bright and shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas. Reflections appear crisp and well balanced. If all else is equal, an Excellent cut grade pretty much guarantees an extremely attractive diamond. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

This diamond has a Good cut grade. Its bright-reflections aren’t as sharp and there’s more darkening around the girdle. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

This diamond has a Poor cut grade. It has significantly more prominent dark areas; there’s a much smaller bright area. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

Learn more about how GIA grades diamond cut.

Maximizing Diamond Sparkle – What Works/What Doesn’t

Looking for more visual bang for your buck when purchasing a diamond engagement ring? Here are some tips for getting the most diamond sparkle.

1. Bigger is not necessarily better. You may think: the larger the diamond, the more sparkle. But in reality, diamonds with identical proportions, color and clarity have the same amount of sparkle regardless of size. Visually, you might perceive a difference when comparing two diamonds that are dramatically different in size. For example, a 0.25 ct diamond may appear to sparkle less than the 1.00 ct diamond next to it. But when it comes to choosing a diamond, typically you’re making a selection between diamonds that fall within a narrow size range, so slight differences in diamond size would have no effect on your perception of sparkle. Again, this assumes the cut quality of the diamonds being compared is the same.

A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank.

Talk about sparkle! This three-stone engagement ring seems to have it all. A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank. Courtesy: ZIVA Jewels Inc.

2. Choose a diamond with good color and clarity. Researchers have found that brightness diminishes in diamonds that grade lower on the D-to-Z color range. Likewise, clarity issues in diamonds graded SI2 or I can diminish the appearance of fire. Both will reduce the sparkle in a diamond.

3. More diamonds, more sparkle. Definitely yes! More diamonds, whether big or small, will add more sparkle to your engagement ring. This is one reason why diamond side stones and pavé settings are so popular.

4. Pick the right setting. If you’re looking for a bigger visual display, a prong setting is better at allowing light to enter the diamond than bezel settings that cover more of the top surface of the diamond. Learn more about different setting styles.

This solitaire engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. features a 2.28 ct round brilliant diamond.

You can have lots of sparkle and still have a simple ring design. This solitaire engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. features a 2.28 ct round brilliant diamond. Courtesy: Pampillonia Estate and Fine Jewelry

5. Keep the diamond clean. This is probably the most important (and affordable) tip. A diamond that’s dirty will not sparkle. Diamonds have an affinity for grease, so it’s important to clean them regularly. Find out how to keep your diamond clean.

In the end, nothing adds sparkle to an engagement ring like the love with which it’s given. So follow your heart and relish the moment — you really can’t go wrong.

If you need a little extra help as you shop, check out our glossary of common engagement ring terms. They’ll help you better communicate your needs and desires with a jeweler.

What Is a Real Diamond?

January 10, 2017

What Is a Real Diamond?

It’s unlikely that you’ll hear a professionally trained gemologist call a diamond a real diamond, or use the word “real” to describe any material. If you want to come across as a smart shopper, you’ll need to rephrase the question.

For decades, diamonds have been the gem of choice for engagement rings. But with the advent of synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants, it’s only natural to ask about real diamonds. “Real” is not a gemological term. But to the consumer, it’s an important one.

A Diamond Is a Diamond Is a Diamond

From a gem professional’s point of view, a diamond is a diamond if it has a characteristic chemical composition and crystal structure. Diamond is composed almost entirely of a single element: carbon. It forms under conditions of high temperature and pressure that cause its carbon atoms to bond in essentially the same way in all directions. Another mineral, graphite, also contains only carbon, but its formation process and crystal structure are very different. The result is that graphite is so soft that you can write with it, while diamond is so hard that you can only scratch it with another diamond.

This definition of diamond applies to diamonds that come from the earth, as well as those that are created in a laboratory. It does not apply to other materials that might masquerade as diamonds.

So, when you ask a jeweler for a real diamond, you could be asking for a diamond created by nature or one created in a lab – since both materials qualify as diamond. Reputable jewelers avoid the term “real” altogether and, following U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines, clearly distinguish between natural diamonds, synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants (or imitations).

In other posts we explain synthetic diamonds and diamond imitations. Here, we’ll dig a little deeper into natural diamonds and their incredible journey from deep below the earth’s surface to the engagement ring worn by your loved one.

A Brief Description of a Natural Diamond

Natural diamonds are one of nature’s wonders. Billions of years old, they formed deep in the earth’s mantle and were brought to the surface by volcanic eruptions. Two types of magma, kimberlite and lamproite, sometimes carried diamond rough with them. The magma quickly solidified into a diamond-bearing kimberlite or lamproite pipe.

A craton is an ancient, deep and stable portion of a continent. Its high heat and pressure provide the right conditions for diamond formation. Conditions under a craton are also stable enough to preserve diamonds for hundreds of millions of years after formation. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Most of the world’s diamonds are found in kimberlite, but the famed Argyle mine in Australia–once the world’s leading diamond producer– is a lamproite deposit. Major companies recover the diamonds by digging large open-pit mines to find the buried treasures. Over time, as the typically cone-shaped pipes narrow down, the companies switch to underground mining to capture the last of the diamonds.

Some diamonds end up in rivers, streams and even the ocean after forces of erosion released the crystals from their host rocks and gradually washed them into bodies of water. When diamonds are found this way, it’s called alluvial mining – a process of digging and sifting through mud, sand and gravel. While river sediments are often worked by small-scale miners using rudimentary techniques, large boats are used to scour the ocean sands off the coast of Namibia in search of fine diamonds.

A natural diamond rough in an octahedron shape.

Natural diamond rough is often shaped like an octahedron. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Fusion Alternatives

For most of recorded history, the extreme scarcity of diamonds made them available only to the elite. In fact, up until 1730, the Golconda region of southern India and the Pacific island of Borneo were the only known diamond-producing regions in the world. Then diamonds were discovered in Brazil around the 1720s and a diamond ‘rush’ began. Soon, Brazil eclipsed India as the world’s top diamond producer, holding this title through the mid-1800s. With the discovery of large diamond-bearing kimberlite pipes in South Africa in the late 1860s, mining began on an industrial scale, increasing supply to meet broader consumer demand. Diamonds are now mined in several countries around the world, including Russia, Botswana and Canada, as well as South Africa and Australia. Learn more about where diamonds come from.

The face-up view of this diamond showcases the beauty of the round brilliant cut. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Col, Inc.

Turning Rough Diamonds into Polished Gems

The diamonds recovered have survived a brutal birth and then a rough ride to the earth’s surface. Diamond mining companies must remove a million parts of host rock to find one rough diamond. Workers then sort the rough diamonds into categories based on their size, shape, clarity and color. The mining company might cut a finished diamond out of the rough, or sell it to dealers and manufacturers.

Rough diamonds are often shipped to cutting centers in India, Israel, New York, Antwerp, China and Thailand. Highly skilled diamond cutters often use the latest technology, such as lasers, to transform the piece of rough into a highly polished faceted diamond. Most finished diamonds are sent to grading laboratories to determine their quality based on the GIA 4Cs standard: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. Every diamond will have unique qualities: no two will be identical.

A diamond cutter at Diacore Botswana examines the initial facets made on a fancy yellow diamond. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Diamond Treatments

Some manufacturers may try to alter the color or clarity of a diamond to make it more appealing and marketable. The methods used to alter color range from crude ones like coloring girdle facets with a permanent marker, to more sophisticated ones like covering facets with an optical thin film, subjecting the diamond to radiation, or exposing it to high pressure, high temperature annealing. The most common clarity enhancement is fracture filling. All of these may improve the appearance of the diamond, but the seller is legally bound by the FTC to disclose that the diamond has been treated.

$A before and after image of a fractured filled diamond.$

This diamond has been fractured filled to make it more attractive. Photo: Shane F. McClure/GIA.

A 1.05 ct diamond owed its apparent Fancy Light brown-pink color to a coating. After the coating was removed by acid cleaning, the diamond was given a color grade of J

This 1.05 ct diamond owed its apparent Fancy Light brown-pink color (left) to a coating. After the coating was removed by acid cleaning, the diamond was given a color grade of J (right). Photo: Jian Xin (Jae) Liao/GIA

Given their timelessness, resilience and durability, is it any wonder so many choose ”real” diamonds as a symbol of love and commitment? If you’re considering a natural diamond for an engagement ring, be sure to ask for a GIA Diamond Grading Report . The report is your proof that the diamond is natural and that its quality is what the seller describes, giving you the important information you need to make your purchase with confidence. And if you opt for a lab-grown diamond, a GIA Synthetic Diamond Grading Report is your assurance that the material is actually diamond and not an imitation.

Have you ever wondered about do-it-yourself tests to determine whether a specific gem is natural, synthetic or something else? Our post, How to Tell if a Diamond is Real, decodes the most common myths about such tests and why they don’t work.

What Are Simulated Diamonds?

December 20, 2016

Simulated diamonds — or diamond simulants — may look like diamonds, but they don’t have the same chemical, physical and optical properties. If you’re shopping for a diamond imitation, make sure you know the unique characteristics of the stone you are getting.
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Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry: What are Synthetic Diamonds?

December 13, 2016

Synthetic diamonds are grown in laboratories and have essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure and physical properties as natural diamonds. They’re real diamonds and not ‘fakes,’ but they are not the same as natural diamonds.
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GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog