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GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

Diamond engagement ring designed by Sylvie.
How to Protect Your Diamond Engagement Ring

Protect your diamond engagement ring from damage or loss by making the right buying decision and then keeping it like new for the rest of your life. Here are some tips on how to safeguard your treasured possession.

1. Before You Buy, Learn About Diamond Durability

Diamonds are the hardest gemstones on earth – they rank 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness – but they can still suffer damage. Diamonds have clarity characteristics called blemishes and inclusions. Blemishes are confined to the diamond’s surface. Inclusions are internal characteristics either totally enclosed within a diamond or extending into the diamond from its surface.

Generally, if a diamond has significant durability problems, it doesn’t survive the friction and pressure of the cutting process. However, certain types of inclusions, especially if they’re near the girdle, can make a cut diamond more vulnerable to damage. (A girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow section separating its upper (crown) and lower (pavilion) parts, and functioning as the diamond’s setting edge.) For example, if the stone is hit precisely on a feather or other surface-reaching inclusion, it might chip. Likewise, very deep feathers that extend from the crown to the pavilion, or that penetrate about one-third of the way or more into the diamond, could pose durability concerns. The size, number, location, relief and nature of the inclusions within a diamond are considered when its clarity grade is assigned. You should take into account the types of clarity characteristics before you purchase the stone.

A chip is a damaged area, usually near the girdle of a diamond. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA

A chip is a damaged area, usually near the girdle of a diamond. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA

A GIA Diamond Grading Report contains essential clarity information about the diamond you’re considering. In addition to providing an objective assessment of the diamond’s color, cut and carat weight, the report also contains your diamond’s clarity grade along with a map of your diamond’s clarity characteristics. Called a plotting diagram, the color-coded map shows the types of inclusions and blemishes the diamond has and their precise locations. Learn more about the plotting diagram.

Princess cut diamond with V-shaped prongs.

Since the corners on a princess cut diamond are vulnerable to chipping, select an engagement ring setting with V-shaped prongs to protect them. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

2. Know Which Diamond Shapes and Cuts Will Require Special Care

Some diamond shapes and cuts are more vulnerable to chipping than others because they have points or sharp corners. The rectangular or square shaped princess cut is one example. The marquise, pear and heart shapes are others. This is not to say you shouldn’t buy one of these shapes; just make sure your diamond is in a setting that protects areas that are more susceptible to chipping. Very thin girdles, sometimes called knife-edge girdles, also pose a greater risk of damage, regardless of the diamond shape.

Diamonds have cleavage, which is the tendency of certain gems and minerals to break or split somewhat easily along crystallographic planes due to their atomic structure. Diamonds are tougher in the directions where the atoms are bonded tightly together, and less tough where they’re not so tightly bonded. This means that diamonds are more likely to be damaged on or near a cleavage plane.

The corners of a princess cut are more vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to a cleavage plane.

The corners of a princess cut are more vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to a cleavage plane. Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA

3. Protect Your Diamond by Choosing a Secure Setting

A diamond in an engagement ring is often held in its mounting by prongs. A prong is a narrow metal support, typically used in groups of four to six. When it comes to protecting your diamond, a six-prong setting can offer more protection than a four-prong setting. In the event a prong breaks, a six-prong setting is more likely to hold the diamond in place. The two additional prongs might also provide a little extra protection for the girdle during daily wear. There are pros and cons to using four or six prongs.

Four prongs can provide an adequate degree of protection and hold your diamond securely.

Four prongs can provide an adequate degree of protection and hold your diamond securely. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

1.37 carat (ct) diamond is secure in a six-prong setting.

This 1.37 carat (ct) diamond is secure in a six-prong setting. If one prong breaks, the other five will probably hold the stone in its place. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Another choice that offers considerable protection is the bezel setting – a style in which a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place. A bezel setting helps prevent the center stone from falling out, and it protects the girdle against bumps, bangs and other accidents. Partial bezels and V-shaped prongs also protect vulnerable points and corners of diamonds.

0.53 ct diamond in this bezel setting is well protected

The 0.53 ct diamond in this bezel setting is well protected. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

 

A tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting.

Although striking and unusual, a tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Steven Kretchmer and Eightstar Diamond Company

4. Protect Your Diamond with a Laser Inscription

Diamonds graded by GIA often have their grading report numbers microscopically inscribed on their girdles. This laser inscription is automatically applied to all diamonds that come with either a GIA Diamond Dossier or Diamond FocusTM report. It’s an optional, low-cost additional service for diamonds with GIA Diamond Grading Reports.

A laser inscription serves as a secure identifying feature, which links the diamond to its specific report data. Viewable under 10× magnification with a simple jeweler’s loupe, the inscribed report number can be matched to the diamond’s physical report or entered into GIA Report Check, GIA’s online database containing the diamond’s grading details. Should your diamond be stolen and later recovered, a laser inscription may help the police identify it.

By the way, you’re not limited to inscribing a report number – you can also inscribe a short message, a special date or other meaningful symbol.

A diamond with a laser inscription can give you added peace of mind.

A diamond with a laser inscription can give you added peace of mind. Photo: Al Gilbertson/GIA

5. After You Buy, Get Your Diamond Appraised and Insured

The emotional value of your engagement ring is priceless, but it does have a monetary value. That’s why insuring it is a smart thing to do. Most homeowner’s and renter’s insurance policies offer relatively inexpensive coverage for jewelry theft. Make sure your policy also covers damage and loss. Be sure to read it carefully.

An engagement ring represents so much that you’ll want to make sure it’s a lifetime companion.

An engagement ring represents so much that you’ll want to make sure it’s a lifetime companion. Courtesy: Sylvie

Many insurance companies will require an appraisal in order to determine your diamond engagement ring’s replacement value. An appraisal is an evaluation of diamonds or other jewelry, usually for insurance or estate purposes. Appraisals normally provide a detailed description of the pieces being appraised, including the exact measurements of the important gemstones, together with (for diamonds) their color and clarity grades, plots showing the location of inclusions or blemishes, and information on the properties and make. They then state an estimated value.

You can find a local appraiser by consulting a list of professional appraisal associations. Many of these organizations require that their appraisers have a GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma in addition to supplemental appraisal training. They also expect members to uphold the highest ethical and professional standards.

1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond engagement ring. The V-shaped prong at the point helps protect the diamond from damage.

You’ll want to insure this 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond engagement ring. The V-shaped prong at the point helps protect the diamond from damage. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer

6. Protect Your Diamond by Taking It Off

Diamond engagement rings are meant for a lifetime of daily wear, but they’re not indestructible. Prongs can shift and loosen over time. Exercise, gardening, catching on clothing and accidental bangs all may take their toll.

Even washing the dishes with an engagement ring on isn’t ideal (how many stories have you read about a ring going down a drain?). Wearing it in cold weather can be risky; fingers shrink and rings can slide around. A good way to protect your diamond is to remove your engagement ring before these kinds of activities.

You’ve heard that only a diamond can scratch a diamond? Well, storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can cause chips and other damage as well as scratches. One solution is to store your diamond ring or other jewels individually in padded boxes or soft pouches. Make sure you place only one piece of jewelry in each bag or box.

1.01 ct pear shaped diamond with surrounding melee

To protect the 1.01 ct pear shaped diamond and surrounding melee, be sure to take the ring off before gardening or performing other risky activities. To avoid inadvertently scratching or chipping the stones, store the ring individually in a box or soft bag. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

7. Protect Your Diamond Engagement Ring with Regular Check-Ups

It’s a good idea to get the prongs in your engagement ring checked every six months for potential damage. If this seems too frequent for you, use your yearly wedding anniversary as a convenient reminder to get the prongs checked. Many insurance companies also require that the ring receive regular check-ups. Contact your carrier to find its requirements.

Tightening prongs is a routine task for a bench jeweler. You can check if a prong is loose by seeing if the stone moves when you gently push it (if it moves, it’s loose). Gaps between the diamond and the setting are another warning sign. Look at the ring with a 10× loupe to help see such gaps and spot damaged prongs.

A breathtaking sight: An 11.17 ct marquise is held in place by six prongs. Tapered baguettes decorate the shank.

A breathtaking sight: An 11.17 ct marquise is held in place by six prongs. Tapered baguettes decorate the shank. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

8. Keep Your Diamond Engagement Ring Clean

Dirt won’t break or chip your diamond, but it will dull its appearance. You can clean your diamond by using a lint-free cloth or washing it with warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush. Don’t use abrasive household cleaners, or steam cleaners. Ultrasonic cleaners are safe for untreated diamonds; however, treated diamonds can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaners. You can briefly dip your diamond in a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. It’s also a good idea to have your ring periodically cleaned by a professional jeweler. If you follow the check-up advice above, your diamond engagement ring will retain its sparkle for a lifetime.

Now that you know how to protect your diamond, it’s time to debunk eight common diamond engagement ring myths.

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Rings of the Victorian era were rich in symbolism and alluring imagery.
Victorian Style Engagement Rings: How to Get the Look

Victorian style engagement rings evoke a romantic past. Flowers, hearts and acrostic messages are just a few of the motifs you can use to create a symbol of your love. Learn more about this captivating engagement ring style.

The Victorian era is named after Queen Victoria (1819–1901), who ruled Great Britain for almost 64 years, from June 20, 1837 until her death on May 1, 1901. For decades, the beloved monarch’s tastes influenced art, style and customs. A wreath of fragrant orange blossoms that she wore on her wedding day became the fashion of the time for British brides. The jewelry that she wore, which was featured in newspapers, was widely copied.

A young Queen Victoria is adorned with jewels and her royal regalia in this portrait by Alexander Melville from 1845.

A young Queen Victoria is adorned with jewels and her royal regalia in this portrait by Alexander Melville from 1845. Courtesy: www.bildindex.de, obj 13850883, via Wikimedia Commons

Queen Victoria’s marriage to Prince Albert lasted a brief 21 years. Their love was celebrated and idolized by an admiring public. After Albert’s untimely death from typhoid in 1861, Queen Victoria spent the rest of her life in mourning, but her love for Albert became the stuff of legend.

Queen Victoria’s jewelry collection included a serpent bracelet she wore to symbolize “the wisdom of the serpent” that she sought as the head of state, reset treasures from the Crown Jewels, a heart-shaped locket with strands of Prince Albert’s hair (worn after his passing), and a sapphire and diamond diadem. Particularly beloved were the jewels Albert gave her, often of his own design. His wedding gift was a sapphire and diamond brooch, which she wore proudly in her bridal portrait. Over the years that followed, in honor of the floral tiara she wore at her wedding, he gave her several pieces in the orange blossom theme.

Mourning jewelry, which she wore after Albert’s death, became the style across England. In addition to the black enamel, jet and onyx of mourning jewelry, diamonds continued to play an important part in Queen Victoria’s life. As a widow, she dressed herself in black silk and diamonds.

During Queen Victoria’s long reign, a number of revolutionary inventions reshaped society: anesthesia, the telegraph, the telephone, automobiles, bicycles, the electric bulb and railways. It was a time of comparative peace and prosperity for a growing middle class who could afford to purchase jewelry. In the late 1860s, the discovery of large quantities of diamonds in South Africa put a gem that was once reserved to the aristocracy and wealthy within the reach of many.

As Queen Victoria reigned for more than six decades, the period is rich in jewelry styles. Here are some motifs you can use in your one-of-a-kind Victorian style engagement ring.

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Secret Messages

Victorians loved acrostic jewelry – using the first letter of gemstones to spell a word. For example, the word “Regard” was spelled by using a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond. Regard, Adore, Dear and Dearest were popular acrostic terms, as were birthday wishes. Acrostic jewelry was meant to send private messages known only to one’s beloved. That makes it perfect for your personally-designed custom Victorian style engagement ring or wedding band.

Ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond spell “Regard” in this Victorian-era (circa 1870) acrostic engagement ring.

Ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond spell “Regard” in this Victorian-era (circa 1870) acrostic engagement ring. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle, doyledoyle.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Love and the Serpent

The snake has been used as a symbol for millennia. Today the snake may have negative associations for many; however, during the Victorian era, the snake represented love, eternity and wisdom. Adding a snake motif to your custom Victorian style engagement ring and wedding band could be an edgy and eye-catching choice.

Two snakes are locked in an embrace in this Victorian-era (circa 1860) ring.

Two snakes are locked in an embrace in this Victorian-era (circa 1860) ring. An old European cut diamond and a ruby crown the heads of the snakes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Edgy and Victorian-inspired, this platinum serpent style ring with heart shaped diamonds and melee borrows two signature design motifs from the period.

Edgy and Victorian-inspired, this platinum serpent style ring with heart shaped diamonds and melee borrows two signature design motifs from the period. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Flower Power

Victorians loved horticulture, built greenhouses to grow exotic plants and devoured books on the subject. They felt specific flowers had specific meanings: Tulips meant passion, bluebells represented kindness, myrtle stood for good luck and love in marriage, red roses symbolized love, and purple violets conveyed “thoughts occupied with love.” As a result, the giving of flowers often conveyed emotions that could not be spoken out loud. Now that you know the meaning of these blooms, you can add the appropriate flower or even a bouquet of flowers to your Victorian style engagement ring.

Three flowers with ruby petals glow in this Victorian-era ring. Diamonds are the hearts of the blooms, and melee diamonds surround them in a play of light.

A dramatic declaration of love is told in gems: Three flowers with ruby petals glow in this Victorian-era ring. Diamonds are the hearts of the blooms, and melee diamonds surround them in a play of light. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

This modern engagement ring with its floral inspired design evokes the romantic Victorian period.

This modern engagement ring with its floral inspired design evokes the romantic Victorian period. Courtesy: Erika Winters Fine Jewelry, erikawinters.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: The Eternal Diamond

By the latter half of the 19th century, the discovery of diamonds in South Africa had put the dream of a diamond engagement ring within reach of the rising middle class. A gem that was once extremely rare was now being mined in sufficient quantity to fulfill the demands of a broad range of people.

The old mine cut, an early cushion-shaped brilliant cut with many proportion variations, was often used in jewelry during the early and mid-Victorian periods. It has 58 facets like most round brilliants, but it typically has a smaller table, larger culet and higher crown. Other characteristics include short lower half facets and a girdle that is very thin in places. As a result, an old mine cut diamond has a very distinctive look. Advances in diamond-cutting technology in the late 1800s allowed cutters to create round girdles. This led to the old European cut, precursor to today’s round brilliant cut, gaining popularity during the late Victorian period.

An old mine cut diamond has a distinctive look – especially compared to a round brilliant.

An old mine cut diamond has a distinctive look – especially compared to a round brilliant. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

For centuries a plain gold band was a common choice for an engagement ring. By the Middle Ages, though, gem-set “betrothal rings” had become fashionable. In 1477, Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a diamond betrothal ring, one of the earliest on record. To bring more light (and, thus, brilliance and sparkle) to the faceted diamonds that were becoming increasingly popular, the Tiffany Setting (a six-prong setting) was introduced in 1886. A diamond solitaire is still an extremely popular choice for an engagement ring, and the use of an old mine (or similar) cut diamond will give your custom engagement ring the essence of Victorian style.

Victorian-era engagement ring featuring a 0.88 carat (ct) old mine cut diamond.

The diamond solitaire ring has become a universal symbol of love. It has a timeless quality, as evidenced by this Victorian-era engagement ring featuring a 0.88 carat (ct) old mine cut diamond. Courtesy: TheRealReal.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: A Heart for Your Sweetheart

The image of a heart has long represented love, and it especially appealed to Victorians, who had a soft spot for things sentimental. Then as now, the motif is a popular means of expressing affection. A heart-shaped diamond – or any gemstone – is an easy way to get the look in your Victorian style engagement ring. Two pear-shaped stones coming together in a single heart send the same message in a very clever fashion.

Two hearts beat as one in this Victorian-era ring, which features two stunning pear shapes, a 0.84 ct diamond and a 1.28 ct ruby.

Two hearts beat as one in this Victorian-era ring, which features two stunning pear shapes, a 0.84 ct diamond and a 1.28 ct ruby. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This yellow diamond heart shaped ring might inspire your own design of a Victorian style engagement ring.

Looking for design inspiration for your Victorian style engagement ring? Take heart! This modern heart-shaped yellow diamond ring features a signature motif of the Victorian era. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Victorian Style Engagement Rings: Crossover Rings

A crossover ring wraps around the finger, with the ends of the band passing each other. The style was popular in the 1890s, and still remains so. It is also called a toi et moi ring (“you and me” in French). The two stones are said to symbolize the intertwining of two lives. Such a romantic notion would be a lovely design choice for your Victorian style engagement ring.

This Victorian-era (circa 1885) crossover ring, set with a sapphire and an old European cut diamond, celebrates two lives joined together in marriage.

This Victorian-era (circa 1885) crossover ring, set with a sapphire and an old European cut diamond, celebrates two lives joined together in marriage. Courtesy: Treasurly by Dima

There’s no shortage of delightful style motifs from the Victorian era that you can use to design a custom engagement ring. Before you start sketching, take a few minutes to learn the 4Cs of diamond quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. Knowing these will help you choose the perfect diamond for your beautiful Victorian style engagement ring.

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Sapphire, the September birthstone
September Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Sapphire

The September birthstone is sapphire – a gem that’s been cherished for thousands of years. Sapphire is one of the most popular colored stones because of its beautiful blues. It also comes in a rainbow of other colors. Here’s how to pick a stunning one.

In this post, we cover:

Gemological Properties of Sapphire
Sapphire History & Lore
Where Sapphire Comes From
Qualities to Look for in Sapphire
Sapphire Care & Cleaning

Gemological Properties of Sapphire

The colors of sapphire enchant.

The colors of sapphire enchant. Faceted stones (from left to right): 6.36 carat (ct) pinkish orange “padparadscha,” 1.63 ct pink, 4.76 ct violet, 5.43 ct violet-purple, 3.03 ct blue, 2.12 ct blue, 8.06 ct yellow, 3.46 ct yellow, 2.00 ct orange and 1.01 ct deep orange. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Collection and Bill Larson, Pala International

The September birthstone, sapphire, comes in a range of colors in addition to the familiar blue. Called “fancy sapphires,” these are violet, green, yellow, orange, pink, purple, black, brown and intermediate hues. Sapphire can be colorless, too. That’s because the gem belongs to the mineral species corundum, which is composed of aluminum and oxygen. In its purest state, corundum is colorless. However, colorless corundum is rare. Most corundum contains trace amounts of additional elements including iron, titanium, magnesium, vanadium, and chromium that replace aluminum in the corundum structure. The coloration of blue and fancy sapphires involves interactions between these impurity elements—sometimes in combination with imperfections in the gem’s crystal structure—that absorb light and impart color into this otherwise colorless mineral.

Blue in sapphire requires interaction between impurities of iron and titanium, whereas chromium is key to the pink in pink sapphires and the red color of ruby, which also belongs to the corundum mineral species. (Red corundum is the only color not called sapphire – it is called ruby.)

Any color of corundum can show a phenomenon called asterism, or the star effect. This phenomenon usually appears as a six-ray star pattern across a cabochon-cut stone’s curved surface when the gem is examined in direct sunlight or with a single intense light. Asterism is caused by the presence of numerous tiny, needle-like inclusions of rutile or hematite oriented in specific directions.

The star, or asterism, in this 5.43 ct blue sapphire is heavenly.

The star, or asterism, in this 5.43 ct blue sapphire is heavenly. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Fu Gemstone Import, Seattle, WA.

Another interesting variety is color-change sapphire. These fascinating stones appear to be a different color under different lighting conditions, most often going from violetish blue in daylight or fluorescent lighting to deep reddish purple in incandescent light. Their presence adds a special dimension to the options available for the amazing September birthstone.

A cluster of sapphire crystals from Myanmar, a faceted blue-green sapphire from Kenya and a faceted blue sapphire from Montana.

Pictured here are a cluster of sapphire crystals from Myanmar, a faceted blue-green sapphire from Kenya and a faceted blue sapphire from Montana. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: (Rough) Bill Larson, Pala International; (Left) Columbia Gem House; (Bottom) Dr. Edward J. Gübelin collection.

Some of the many colors of sapphire are on display in “Dawn” – a one-of-a-kind necklace that features 450 carats of sapphire beads.

Some of the many colors of sapphire are on display in “Dawn” – a one-of-a-kind necklace that features 450 carats of sapphire beads. Courtesy: Denise James

Sapphire History & Lore

The September birthstone has traditionally symbolized sincerity, truth, faithfulness and nobility. For countless centuries, sapphire has adorned royalty and the robes of the clergy. The elite of ancient Greece and Rome believed that blue sapphires protected their owners from harm and envy. The clergy of the Middle Ages wore sapphires because they symbolized Heaven.

The September birthstone was also reputed to have healing powers. Medieval Europeans believed that sapphire cured plague boils and diseases of the eye. It also was thought to be an antidote to poison.

A dragonfly brooch studded with a 38.82 carats of pink, green, blue and yellow fancy sapphires and 5.74 carats total weight of diamonds.

A dragonfly brooch studded with a 38.82 carats of pink, green, blue and yellow fancy sapphires and 5.74 carats total weight of diamonds might make you believe in the magical powers of the gem. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Pioneer Gems

Famous sapphires include the Rockefeller Sapphire, a 62.02 ct rectangular step cut stone that was unearthed in Myanmar (Burma). Acquired in 1934 by financier and philanthropist John D. Rockefeller, Jr. (1874–1960) from an Indian maharaja, the gem was recut and remounted over the years. The sapphire was first set as a brooch and later as a ring featuring two triangular brilliant cut diamond side stones.

The Rockefeller Sapphire is a 62.02 ct rectangular step-cut sapphire weighing 62.02 ct.

The Rockefeller Sapphire is a 62.02 ct rectangular step-cut sapphire weighing 62.02 ct. Here it is flanked by cut-cornered triangular cut diamonds, mounted in a platinum ring signed Tiffany & Co. Courtesy: Christie’s Images Ltd., 2015

The Starry Night Sapphire is another famous gem. Also originating from Myanmar, the Starry Night Sapphire is a 111.96 ct cabochon-cut gem whose magnificent six-rayed star is a fine example of asterism.

The Starry Night Sapphire comes from Myanmar, one of the most important sources of the gem.

The Starry Night Sapphire comes from Myanmar, one of the most important sources of the gem. The gemological phenomenon asterism is responsible for creating the six-rayed star. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Benjamin Zucker

In addition to being the September birthstone, sapphire is also the gem commemorating the 5th and 45th wedding anniversaries.

Where Sapphire Comes From

Kashmir, Myanmar and Sri Lanka are three historically important sources for sapphire. Significant quantities of the September birthstone have also been found in Australia, Thailand, Cambodia, Madagascar and the United States (Montana), among other countries in Asia and Africa.
Sapphires were discovered in Kashmir around 1881, when a landslide high in the Himalayas exposed a large pocket of velvety “cornflower” blue crystals. As the spectacular sapphires began to appear farther south, the Maharaja of Kashmir—and his army—took control of the new locality. From 1882 to 1887, thousands of large, beautiful crystals were recovered. In this short season of six years rests Kashmir sapphire’s reputation as one of the world’s most coveted gems. Production has been sporadic since then, but auction houses occasionally sell fine pieces of Kashmir sapphire.

A magical pool … a drop of the sky … a slice of eternity. This 3.08 ct cushion cut Kashmir sapphire conjures such visions.

A magical pool … a drop of the sky … a slice of eternity. This 3.08 ct cushion cut Kashmir sapphire conjures such visions. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Edward Boehm, RareSource

The Himalaya Mountains are the source of Kashmir’s beautiful blue sapphires.

The Himalaya Mountains are the source of Kashmir’s beautiful blue sapphires. Photo: Robert C. Kammerling/GIA

The Mogok area of Myanmar is another locale famed for producing the September birthstone. Jungle-clad hills hemmed by mountains make a dramatic landscape. Sapphire typically occurs alongside ruby deposits, but in much lower quantities than its red counterpart. ”Burmese” sapphire, as it is still called by many, can possess a rich, intense blue hue, which has made it particularly prized.  Myanmar is also a noted source of jadeite jade, spinel, zircon, amethyst, peridot and other fine gem materials.

A scenic view near Mogok rivals the beauty of the sapphires hidden underground.

A scenic view near Mogok rivals the beauty of the sapphires hidden underground. Photo: James E. Shigley/GIA

For more than 2,000 years, Sri Lanka has been a source of fine sapphire. The blue stones mined from the alluvial gravels of this “jewel box of the Indian Ocean” can display remarkable brilliance and saturation. In addition, the island’s milky white “geuda” sapphires can be heat treated to a rich blue color.

Sri Lanka is one of the few sources for padparadscha (from the words for “lotus color” in Sinhalese) sapphires. Poetic descriptions for this light to medium pinkish orange to orange-pink sapphire include “salmon,” “sunset” and ”ripe guava.” Padparadschas are quite coveted and have a very high per-carat value.

This gem-rich island is also home to ruby, spinel, garnet, tourmaline, topaz and many more gems.

Using the same rudimentary washing techniques as generations before them in Sri Lanka, miners search for sapphire among the gravels in a local stream.

Using the same rudimentary washing techniques as generations before them in Sri Lanka, miners search for sapphire among the gravels in a local stream. Courtesy: Afsaneh Tazari

The spellbinding beauty of this 6.66 ct gem from Sri Lanka shows why padparadscha sapphires are so prized.

The spellbinding beauty of this 6.66 ct gem from Sri Lanka shows why padparadscha sapphires are so prized. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA, Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Collection

Thailand is a source of sapphire and a major cutting and treatment center. In dense jungle crossed by dirt roads, miners dig for sapphire in Chanthaburi Province. Sapphires from Myanmar and Cambodia often end up in Chanthaburi for cutting and treatment, and are also sent to Bangkok, an important gem hub.

In the distance, a mining pit dots the tropical terrain of Chanthaburi, Thailand.

In the distance, a mining pit dots the tropical terrain of Chanthaburi, Thailand. Photo: Vincent Pardieu/GIA

Sapphire Qualities to Look For

Here are some tips for picking a stunning sapphire.

  • Color: The value of most sapphires—both blue and fancy color is based on a combination of hue, tone and saturation. Hue is your first impression of a gem’s basic color. Tone is the darkness or lightness of a color. Saturation is a color’s strength or intensity.
Each sapphire color has its own quality variations. In general, though, the more intense the color and the fewer zones of unattractive color, the more valuable the stone. The most highly valued blue sapphires are velvety blue to violetish blue, in medium to medium-dark tones. The saturation should be as strong as possible without darkening the tone and compromising brilliance. Blue sapphires with these qualities command the highest price per carat.
Zoning in sapphires of all colors is common and, especially when apparent in the stone viewed face up, reduces the value of the sapphire. It is important to examine a stone from all angles to determine the presence or degree of zoning before making a purchasing decision.
Other factors that help determine the value of a sapphire are clarity, cut, proportions, rarity and market demand.
These fancy sapphires range from yellow to highly saturated reddish orange.

For those who prefer warm-colored gems, the September birthstone does not disappoint. These fancy sapphires range from yellow to highly saturated reddish orange. Photo: GIA & Tino Hammid. Courtesy: Varujan Arslanyan

  • Cut: Fashioned sapphires appear most commonly in cushion and oval shapes with brilliant-cut crowns and step-cut pavilions. Blue sapphire cut into trilliant (triangular), emerald, pear and marquise shapes are also available.
The cushion cut is particularly popular for sapphires, like this 4.47 ct blue stone.

The cushion cut is particularly popular for sapphires, like this 4.47 ct blue stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Bear Essentials

Asterism in a sapphire will only be revealed if the stone is cut as a cabochon. A finished stone’s attractiveness depends on the star’s orientation and the cabochon’s symmetry, proportions and finish.

Look for a cabochon with a symmetrical outline and a star that’s centered when the gem rests on its base. The dome of the cabochon should be fairly high—about two-thirds of the stone’s width—to focus the star sharply. If it’s too high, the phenomenon loses its graceful motion when the stone is tilted. Excessive height also makes the stone difficult to mount.

  • Clarity: Sapphires typically have some inclusions. As a general rule, inclusions make a stone less valuable, and the price can drop significantly if they threaten the stone’s durability. Sapphires with extremely high clarity are rare and very valuable.
  • Carat Weight: Sapphires can range in size from a few points to hundreds of carats. Large blue sapphires are more readily available than large rubies. However, most commercial-quality blue sapphire weighs less than 5 carats. Large padparadscha or color-change sapphires are exceedingly rare.
Sapphires are the stars in these earrings. They were especially popular during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and ‘30s, a look that you can get in an engagement ring.

Sapphires are the stars in these earrings. They were especially popular during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and ‘30s, a look that you can get in an engagement ring. Courtesy: Genevive

  • Treatments: As you shop, be aware that sapphires are often treated in some way to improve their color and other aspects of their appearance. Heating is one common treatment, particularly for blue sapphires. The results are stable and durable, and heat-treated blue sapphires typically retain their enhanced effects permanently. Because of this, the practice is commonly accepted in the colored stone market.
Lattice diffusion is another common treatment that can improve color. This involves packing a sapphire into a crucible with coloring agents such as titanium or beryllium, and then heating them almost to a melting point. This allows the elements to enter the stone and alter its color. For example, pink sapphires may turn orange or pinkish orange (padparadscha) with beryllium diffusion. While this treatment is also considered permanent, in some cases (such as titanium-diffused blue sapphire) the added color is so shallow it could be removed if the stone was chipped or had to be recut.
A less stable, and relatively less common, treatment is the filling of surface-reaching fractures with oil, epoxy, resin or a high-lead-content glass. In some cases, a colored filler is used.
Sapphires treated with a filler require special care. The filler can be damaged through contact with a variety of chemicals or high heat. Even relatively mild substances like lemon juice can cause alteration of high-lead-content glass.
Be sure to ask if your sapphire has been treated before you buy. A GIA Colored Stone Identification Report  will tell you if a stone is natural or synthetic and whether it has been treated in any fashion.

Sapphire Care & Cleaning

The September birthstone is relatively hard, ranking 9 on the Mohs scale. It has excellent toughness and no cleavage, which is a tendency to break when struck. This makes it a great choice for rings and other mountings subject to daily wear.

Corundum is stable under normal wearing conditions, which means it’s resistant to the effects of heat, light and common chemicals. Boric acid powder will etch the surface of even untreated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled and dyed stones can be damaged by even mild acids like lemon juice.

Warm, soapy water is always a safe choice for cleaning the September birthstone. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are usually safe for untreated, heat-treated and lattice-diffusion-treated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled or dyed material should only be cleaned with a damp cloth.

Now that you know all about sapphire, you’re probably in the mood to buy a beautiful one. Our Sapphire Buying Guide can help you make a great choice.

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Art Nouveau engagement rings are beautiful but rare.
Art Nouveau Engagement Rings: How to Get the Style

Art Nouveau engagement rings are exquisitely beautiful, but rare. You can achieve the romance of Art Nouveau style in your own ring by using design elements from the period, like the whiplash line, enamel and colored gems. Here’s how. (more…)

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A 1.10 carat marquise yellow diamond engagement ring
Eight Common Diamond Engagement Ring Myths —Demystified

There’s no shortage of engagement ring myths. Here are some of the more common ones: Bigger diamonds always look better than smaller ones. Round brilliants are the best. Diamonds are unbreakable. True? False? We investigate these myths and deliver the facts.

In this blog, we examine the following engagement ring myths:

A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better
Any Diamond Will Sparkle
I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant
Diamonds Can’t Break
Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break
I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail
Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad
A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

Myth #1: A Bigger Diamond Is Always Better

A common myth about engagement rings is that a bigger diamond has a better face-up appearance than a smaller one. But just because a diamond is big doesn’t mean it will have more brightness, fire and scintillation. A small diamond can have mesmerizing sparkle, while a large diamond can look dull. How a diamond performs under light is a function of its cut, not its carat weight. So, debunking one of the biggest myths about engagement rings, a bigger diamond is not necessarily a better one.

Myth #2: Any Diamond Will Sparkle

A common misconception about diamond engagement rings is that every diamond sparkles. A diamond’s cut – how its facets interact with light – creates its sparkle. Precise artistry and workmanship are required to fashion a stone so its proportions, symmetry and polish deliver the magnificent return of light. A diamond with a poor cut will have little to no sparkle.

A diamond’s cut greatly affects its appearance, as these three round brilliants illustrate.

A diamond’s cut greatly affects its appearance, as these three round brilliants illustrate. From left to right, they received cut grades of: Poor, Good and Excellent. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

You can turn to a GIA Diamond Grading Report, a GIA Diamond Origin Report or GIA Diamond Dossier for an objective evaluation of the cut of a round brilliant diamond. A GIA cut grade of Good or better will deliver the sparkle you’re expecting.

It’s worth mentioning that dirt is the enemy of sparkle. Just as a dirty mirror will reflect poorly, so will diamond facets that have skin oils, lotion and other substances on them. Keeping your diamond clean is key to keeping it sparkling.

The sparkle of this E color 0.61 ct round brilliant is dulled by oil and dirt.

The sparkle of this E color 0.61 ct round brilliant is dulled by oil and dirt. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

What a difference a cleaning makes.

What a difference a cleaning makes. Oils have been removed from the same diamond, and it now has a scintillating sparkle. Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA

The takeaway from all of this: If you want a diamond that sparkles, make sure it is cut well; if it is a round brilliant, look for one with a cut grade of Good or better on its GIA Diamond Grading Report. Once it is yours, keep it clean. This way, the engagement ring will be noticed and admired.

Myth #3: I Need to Buy a Round Brilliant

A round brilliant diamond is the most popular shape and cut for engagement rings. About half of all brides wear one. And for good reason: It’s beautiful, appealing and can have spectacular brightness, fire and scintillation.

Simply enchanting and enchantingly simple, this six-prong ring with a 1.37 ct H color diamond is sure to win the heart of a bride to be.

Simply enchanting and enchantingly simple, this six-prong ring with a 1.37 ct H color diamond is sure to win the heart of a bride to be.

But do you need to buy a round brilliant? Consider that about half of all brides wear engagement rings set with diamond shapes other than round brilliants. These fancy shapes can be just as beautiful and deserve your consideration. And some might even cost less per carat than a round brilliant. Some of the more popular fancy shape diamonds include: the princess cut, marquise, cushion cut and emerald cut. Ovals are currently popular and can have bewitching sparkle. So, the myth that only a round brilliant diamond makes for a beautiful engagement ring is untrue!  Other diamond shapes are just as popular, and just as beautiful. 

A princess cut diamond can rival the brightness of a round brilliant.

A princess cut diamond can rival the brightness of a round brilliant. Square or rectangular in shape, the princess cut also looks a bit different, like this 1.03 ct beauty in a four-prong setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone.

Supposedly named after the Marquise de Pompadour because its outline resembled the shape of her mouth, the marquise diamond is rich in beauty and lore. This sunny stunner of an engagement ring boasts a 1.10 ct marquise yellow diamond and two white marquise diamonds in the shank, with a halo of melee diamonds surrounding the center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

The cushion cut diamond traces its roots to the 1700s, and the passage of time hasn’t dimmed its beauty.

The cushion cut diamond traces its roots to the 1700s, and the passage of time hasn’t dimmed its beauty. Its appeal is easy to see in this engagement ring, which features a 7.82 ct cushion cut center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

This 2.71 ct diamond showcases the stately beauty of an emerald cut, The center diamond is accentuated by two tapered baguettes.

This 2.71 ct diamond showcases the stately beauty of an emerald cut, The center diamond is accentuated by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Romance and sparkle abound in this three stone platinum engagement ring featuring a 1.57 ct oval diamond center stone.

Romance and sparkle abound in this three stone platinum engagement ring featuring a 1.57 ct oval diamond center stone. Photo: GIA

Myth #4: Diamonds Can’t Break

Diamond is the hardest gem material on earth and is impervious to virtually all acids. It can also withstand higher temperatures than most gemstones. But if a diamond cutter can purposely cleave (split) a diamond by giving it a sharp blow in the right direction, you can achieve the same result if you accidentally hit it hard enough in the right place.

Cleavage planes in diamond occur because carbon atoms parallel to these planes are more tightly bonded (that is, tougher) than the atoms between the planes. A cleavage plane is the weakest direction in the molecular arrangement of a diamond crystal, and it always parallels one of the crystal’s triangular faces. If a diamond is hit hard along one of these planes, it can chip or fracture.

Chips typically occur when the girdle edge or an exposed point, like the tip of a pear shape or marquise, strikes something hard. Diamonds being unbreakable is simply a myth. Storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can also cause chips, scratches or other damage. Certain diamond cuts with pointed corners, like the princess cut, are particularly vulnerable and are often set with V-shaped prongs positioned over the corners to protect them from chipping.

This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet.

Diamonds are known for their hardness – their ability to resist scratches and abrasions. But contrary to some diamond engagement ring myths, diamonds are not impervious to damage, since their hardness varies depending on the crystal direction. This 1.05 ct diamond has a chip starting at its girdle that extends to the culet. Photo: GIA

This illustration shows examples of cleavage planes parallel to the triangular octahedral face of a diamond.

This illustration shows examples of cleavage planes parallel to the triangular octahedral face of a diamond. Illustration modified from V. C. Venkatesh and S. Izman, Precision Engineering, 2007, p. 54.

Myth #5: Inclusions Will Cause a Diamond to Break

Of all the diamond engagement ring myths covered here, there is some truth to this one.  Inclusions are clarity characteristics that lie within a diamond. Inclusions in themselves won’t necessarily cause a diamond to break. But if they’re located on or near a cleavage plane or another vulnerable area like a girdle or culet, they could make the diamond more prone to chipping.

This diamond is marred by a chip, which may have been caused by an inclusion located on or near a cleavage plane or the girdle.

This diamond is marred by a chip, which may have been caused by an inclusion located on or near a cleavage plane or the girdle. Photo: GIA

Myth #6: I Can Get a Better Deal on a Diamond by Not Buying Retail

This is one of those engagement ring myths that really demands your due diligence and some research. It’s tempting to think that you’ll get a better price buying a diamond from “a friend of a friend,” through an online auction, or directly from a wholesaler or dealer. After all, you think, these sellers have lower overhead, so they should also have a lower markup — with these savings passed along to you. You may be right. However, it pays to comparison shop, taking into account all the costs associated with purchasing an engagement ring.

Whether you decide to buy your diamond from a traditional brick and mortar retailer or through another channel, be sure to look for some basic consumer protections: a minimum 30-day period for refunds or exchanges, quality guarantees, and diamonds accompanied by grading reports from a reputable lab. Any seller failing to provide these basic services may be offering a deal that’s too good to be true.

Buying from a traditional retailer may offer some additional advantages. A jeweler’s expertise is invaluable in helping you select both the diamond and the right setting for it. And many retailers offer discounted diamond-and-ring packages. Many also offer cleaning, repair and maintenance as long as you own the ring, as well as insurance and even trade-in programs should you want to up-grade your diamond in the future. In the end, you may find that the savings offered by other types of sellers are negated by the package discount and additional services offered by a retailer.

All this is to say that you have more options than ever when it comes to buying a diamond. Just be careful and smart, as you would with any important purchase. 

Myth #7: Diamond Fluorescence Is Bad

This is one of the more common engagement ring myths – here are the facts: Diamond fluorescence is neither good nor bad. It is a naturally occurring characteristic that a diamond may possess. Some people like the blue (or rarely another color) glow that some diamonds emit when exposed to long-way ultraviolet (UV) light such as that from the sun and fluorescent lamps. Whether you choose a diamond with fluorescence is a matter of personal preference.

Fluorescence is common: Between 25% and 35% of the diamonds on the market exhibit some degree of fluorescence, which GIA grading reports describe as None, Faint, Medium, Strong or Very Strong. It’s worth noting that fluorescence is not considered a quality factor like the 4Cs (color, clarity, cut and carat weight). The extent of a diamond’s fluorescence is included in a grading report as additional information to help in identifying that particular diamond.

Blue is by far the most common fluorescence color in diamonds when they are exposed to long-wave UV rays.

Blue is by far the most common fluorescence color in diamonds when they are exposed to long-wave UV rays. Half the necklace and one earring in this composite photo are shown under normal lighting conditions (left), and the other half of the necklace and the same earring are shown as they appear under a long-wave ultraviolet lamp (right). Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt. Courtesy: Harry Winston, Inc., New York

You may have heard the myth about engagement rings that the fluorescence affects a diamond’s color grade. Not true. GIA color grades diamonds under tightly controlled lighting conditions designed to eliminate any effect from fluorescence. So it has no impact on the color grade assigned. However, the strength of a diamond’s fluorescence can influence your perception of the diamond’s color when viewed with certain types of lighting. For example, in bright sunshine some diamonds with a Medium to Strong blue fluorescence may appear more colorless. In rare cases, diamonds with Very Strong fluorescence may have a hazy or oily appearance; less than 0.2% of fluorescent diamonds exhibit this effect.

GIA’s research discovered that for the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, blue fluorescence had no systematic effect on a diamond’s face-up appearance. Even experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next.

Myth #8: A Diamond Engagement Ring Should Cost Three Months’ Salary

One of the older engagement ring myths, this one dates back to the 1950s. It’s been debunked before, but it’s worth negating again. The fact is, there is no hard and fast rule on how much you should spend on a diamond engagement ring. You need to determine what you can afford, set a budget and stick to it. By learning a little bit about diamonds, including the 4Cs of diamond quality and doing some comparison shopping, you’ll be able to choose a diamond of the best quality for your budget. Remember, at the end of the day the ultimate value of a diamond isn’t what it costs, but the love that goes into giving it.

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Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA. Courtesy: Douglas M. Liebman Estate Jeweler
Retro Style Engagement Rings: How to Get the Look

Retro style engagement rings and cocktail rings have a distinctive look. Gold mountings, diamond baguettes, colored gems and invisible settings are just some of its design elements. Here’s how you can re-create a striking classic.

The Retro era spanned approximately 1935 to the 1950s, a period that included the Great Depression and World War II. It had its roots firmly planted in the Art Deco era that came before. Jewelry designers took Art Deco’s bold lines and geometric shapes and softened them with curves, creating pieces that had a sculptural quality. Gold was usually the metal of choice, as platinum was reserved for wartime uses. Jewelry designers also used vivid color combinations of rubies, sapphires and emeralds; as the Retro era moved farther away from Art Deco, they incorporated more muted colors with stones like topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine.

Finding authentic vintage engagement rings from the Retro era can be challenging. The ravages of war destroyed many jewelry businesses and their inventories. During the war years, jewelry designs became simpler and lighter weight to reduce the amount of metal used and to keep items affordable. Countless pieces around the world were broken up and the materials repurposed once hostilities ended.

Jewelers devised ingenious ways to adapt to these challenges. One innovation was to alloy a low karat gold with a higher percentage of copper. The result was gold with an attractive reddish tinge. Chains that were hollow (instead of solid) and the use of large, inexpensive stones were other techniques in this time of scarcity. This allowed jewelers to create a big look for less money.

Diamonds in engagement rings of the Retro era were small; in addition to the war sapping resources and interrupting gemstone supply lines, enlisted men had scant disposable income for jewelry. The illusion setting and white gold detailing were ways jewelers made smaller stones look larger.

This 0.75 carat (ct) diamond looks larger than it is because of the white gold illusion setting

This 0.75 carat (ct) diamond looks larger than it is because of the white gold illusion setting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rose Tozer

If engagement rings of the period were modest, cocktail rings of the same era were exuberant and showy. Popularized during Prohibition (1920 to 1933), cocktail rings were a symbol that one was proudly flouting the law against drinking alcohol. The signature of the design – large and flashy – remained largely unchanged as styles evolved during the Retro period.

Cylinders, scrolls, fans, prisms and asymmetry were common stylistic motifs. Red and yellow gold were the metals of choice; again, because of the demands of the defense industry, platinum made an appearance only occasionally.

Retro ring boasts three cylindrical pavé set diamond scrolls with a total weight of 2.50 carats.

Considering the challenges Retro-era jewelers faced when making engagement rings, your search for vintage engagement rings just might lead you to create your own by using design motifs from the period and finding inspiration in cocktail rings.

Here are some of the signature design elements to help you get that Retro style.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Go Sculptural

Retro designers took the sharp angular lines of Art Deco jewelry and reimagined them with curved edges. Geometric shapes also went from having a two-dimensional look in Art Deco jewelry to a three-dimensional look in the Retro era. This gave the jewelry a chunky, sculptural quality. Current events and the spirit of the times also influenced jewelry designers. The machine age was at its height and WW II left its mark. Gears, cylinders, and all types of mechanical objects became the inspiration for bold new designs. Links resembled tank treads, and chain resembled gas pipe.

With its bold and rounded shapes, this engagement ring could double as a sculpture in a city plaza.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Embrace Bold Colors

As noted above, bold color combinations were common in early Retro jewelry. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds were favorite choices as styles transitioned from Art Deco. Gems with more muted colors like topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine eventually became popular. So adding colored gemstones can be one way to infuse your engagement ring with Retro style.

Rubies make for a colorful counterpoint to the 2 carats of diamonds in this Retro-era vintage engagement ring.

This classic Retro-era cocktail ring demands to be noticed.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Warm it up with Yellow or Rose Gold

During World War II, platinum was in high demand by defense manufacturers because of its malleability, resistance to acids and high melting point. They used it to make tubes, fuses, sparkplugs and explosives for the war effort. So jewelers turned to gold, which became the predominant metal of vintage engagement rings of the Retro era.

A fluted ribbed motif gives this Retro-era gold engagement ring and wedding band an almost organic appearance.

Gold “tank treads” are the dominant motif in this vintage engagement ring and wedding band from the Retro period.

Wartime restrictions on metals forced jewelers to be inventive. They had to use low-karat gold, and often alloyed it with greater amounts of copper, creating a metal with an appealing reddish hue. The warm and beautiful hues of rose gold are now popular in contemporary engagement rings. Other alloys created other colors of gold, which were often mixed in a single piece of jewelry.

A Cartier creation of the 1940s, this “Love Knot” ring features a citrine surrounded by both rose and yellow gold.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Popular Settings

The illusion setting mentioned above was popular with wartime brides and grooms because it made the center stone appear larger. These settings are still very popular and can be an easy way to get the Retro style.

The star setting – placing a gem in the center of an engraved star – was another recurring motif in Retro-era jewelry. Perhaps the imagery offered the wearer an escape to a kinder realm, far away from the travails of the time. It’s a motif that can be carried to wedding bands to complement a Retro-style look.

Star-set diamonds twinkle in a slice of golden sky in this vintage Retro ring. The piece features 18 single-cut diamonds with a total weight of 1.00 carat.

Also popular during the Retro era was the invisible, or “mystery,” setting. Patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1930s, this technique results in no visible metal around the gemstones. Special grooves are cut into the gems below the girdle, and the gems are held in place using metal rails that fit into these grooves.

In this 18K gold contemporary re-creation of a Retro-style ring, approximately 0.90 carats of diamonds fan out to meet a field of invisibly set rubies totaling 2.23 carats.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Add Baguettes to Complete the Retro Look

Rectangular step-cut diamonds (called baguettes) were often seen in Retro-era jewelry. Used as side stones and as design elements, baguettes created an elegant and sophisticated look.

A poetic interpretation of this Retro-era engagement ring – a footbridge of channel-set baguettes is surrounded by tracks of emeralds.

Diamond baguettes form curved lines in this vintage Retro-era engagement ring. A 1.50 ct emerald cut diamond is the center stone.

The Retro era gave birth to a dazzling variety of ring designs, so there’s no shortage of inspiration waiting for you. Once you’ve settled on your own design, you’ll probably want to start shopping for a diamond. Before you begin, be sure you know your 4Cs of Diamond Quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight.

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Beautiful 20.04 ct radiant cut diamond set in platinum showcases the excitement of this faceting style.
Radiant Cut Engagement Ring – A Brilliant Option

A radiant cut engagement ring is an irresistible combination: It has the fire of a round brilliant diamond and the aristocratic elegance of an emerald cut. Created in 1977, the radiant cut has been charming brides-to-be for decades.

This dramatic 8 carat (ct) radiant cut yellow diamond is an alluring choice for a diamond engagement ring.

This dramatic 8 carat (ct) radiant cut yellow diamond is an alluring choice for a diamond engagement ring. Courtesy: McTeigue and McClelland

A relative newcomer to the ranks of fancy-shaped diamonds, the radiant cut can be square or rectangular; notably, it has cropped corners and brilliant-cut facets. Diamonds with less-than-exceptional clarity can be good candidates for radiant cut engagement rings: In addition to giving the stone plenty of sparkle, this brilliant-cut faceting pattern disguises inclusions that would be more readily apparent in an emerald cut.

3 ct radiant cut diamond is flanked by two trilliants weighing 0.70 ct.

A 3 ct radiant cut diamond is flanked by two trilliants weighing 0.70 ct. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Buying a Radiant Cut Engagement Ring

Radiant cut diamonds have broad appeal. Elongated stones can create the effect of slenderizing fingers, while shorter styles can flatter even the most petite hands. To determine which proportions work best for you, we recommend trying on various options to find the perfect radiant cut engagement ring.

Beautiful 20.04 ct radiant cut diamond set in platinum showcases the excitement of this faceting style.

A beautiful 20.04 ct radiant cut diamond set in platinum showcases the excitement of this faceting style. Courtesy: Norman Silverman

Important characteristics to look for in any radiant cut diamond are a well-centered culet, parallel sides and corners cropped to identical size.

Radiant cut center stone with round brilliant cut diamonds.

Looking for a simple yet elegant square shape for your engagement ring? This radiant cut center stone with round brilliant cut diamonds is an attractive option. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

The enchanting sparkle and alluring appearance of radiant cut diamonds makes them especially attractive as solitaires. And they don’t require extra embellishment to stand out from the crowd: Taste-making celebrities like Megan Fox sport the cut.

Three yellow radiant cut diamonds in this ring set with round yellow melee diamonds.

The three yellow radiant cut diamonds in this ring set with round yellow melee diamonds make a breathtaking statement. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

The radiant cut diamond also pairs well with side stones. Shapes with straight edges—like trilliants, or baguettes and other rectangular stones—are popular in radiant cut engagement rings because their linear silhouettes are complementary. And while you’ll often see radiant cut diamonds oriented north-to-south in engagement rings, the east-to-west orientation is gaining in popularity.

Magnificent ring has a 4.15 ct stone with trapezoid-cut side stones weighing another 1.25 ct.

You’re sure to stand out and be noticed with an engagement ring that has a radiant cut diamond pointing east to west. This magnificent ring has a 4.15 ct stone with trapezoid-cut side stones weighing another 1.25 ct. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

If you are looking for the elegance of a rectangular or square shape with the fire of a round brilliant diamond, a radiant cut engagement ring may be perfect for you. Ready to start shopping? Read on to learn more about how to pick a radiant cut diamond.

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Oval ruby
July Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Rubies

Ruby is the July birthstone – and it’s one of the most coveted of gems. Called the “king of gems” in ancient India, today it can command the highest per-carat price of any colored stone. Here’s what you need to know about this beautiful gem.

In this post, we cover:
Gemological Properties of Ruby
Ruby History & Lore
Where Ruby Comes From
Qualities to Look for in Rubies
Ruby Treatments, Care & Cleaning

 

July Birthstone: Gemological Properties of Ruby

Ruby, the July birthstone, is a variety of the mineral corundum that contains trace amounts of the element chromium, which causes its color. The more chromium present, the stronger the color red. Chromium can also cause red fluorescence, which adds to the intensity of the color. Fluorescence is visible light temporarily emitted by some gem materials when they are exposed to high-energy sources such as ultraviolet light (as in sunlight), X-rays or lasers.

Some rubies form in marble, when heat and pressure act on minerals in limestone. These rubies tend to be highly prized, as they have a higher concentration of chromium and little iron, which is an ideal recipe for a bright red color. They also tend to be highly fluorescent.

Other rubies are found in basalt, which forms when molten lava cools and solidifies. Basalt-hosted rubies typically have significantly more iron than marble-hosted rubies and thus are darker. A higher iron content can also mask the fluorescence, eliminating that extra glow of red color.
Still other rubies form in an amphibole-bearing gneiss (a coarse-grained metamorphic rock). These rubies tend to have good color, though they have more iron than the marble-hosted stones and less than those from basalt.

Gemologists love the July birthstone because synthetic ruby was used to create the first laser in 1960. They also consider chromium to be the “rock star” of trace elements.
Consumers love ruby for its intense red color and because it’s a 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness, just below diamond. As such, it is a very durable stone that holds up well to daily wear in rings and other jewelry.

A look at these earrings featuring 8.16 carats of ruby, 1.78 carats of marquise diamonds, and 1.69 carats of round diamonds shows why we are enchanted by the gem. Courtesy: Omi Privé

 

July Birthstone: Ruby History & Lore

A prized gem like ruby naturally comes with many attributes. Because it resembles the color of blood, ancients believed it could stop hemorrhaging. The July birthstone was also thought to cure inflammatory diseases and soothe anger. Burmese warriors believed it made them invincible in battle. Medieval Europeans maintained that rubies bestowed health, wisdom, wealth and success in love.

In addition to being the July birthstone, ruby is traditionally given for the 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries.

The Harry Winston Ruby Slippers are a famous example of the July birthstone in a spectacular setting. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the movie “The Wizard of Oz,” the House of Harry Winston fashioned a pair of red slippers featuring 4,600 rubies weighing an estimated 1,350 carats. When they were created in 1989, they were valued at $3 million.

4,600 rubies weighing an estimated 1,350 carats glitter in the slippers; another 50 carats of diamonds accent the unique creation.

Harry Winston’s famed ruby slippers were exhibited at GIA in December 1997. Some 4,600 rubies weighing an estimated 1,350 carats glitter in the slippers; another 50 carats of diamonds accent the unique creation. Courtesy: Harry Winston

 

July Birthstone: Where Ruby Comes From

Our search for the July birthstone starts in Myanmar (formerly known as Burma). For more than five centuries, the Mogok area in Myanmar has produced some of the finest rubies – vibrant red beauties softened by light-scattering inclusions and a glowing red fluorescence. The region is a place of weathered marble and ancient Buddhist temples.

Golden spires of a monastery near Mogok are flashes of color along the mountainside.

Golden spires of a monastery near Mogok are flashes of color along the mountainside. Photo: Robert C. Kammerling/GIA

Ruby crystals intertwined with their matrix rival the beauty of finished gems from Mogok.

These ruby crystals intertwined with their matrix rival the beauty of finished gems from Mogok. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Bill and Jeanne Larson

Vietnam is another important source for marble-hosted rubies. The Luc Yen region, where rainforest-clad mountains rise over broad paddy fields, produces rubies of red to purplish red color. Today, artisanal miners work the soil in hopes of finding a gem that will change their fortunes.

Small village sits at the base of the mountains in the ruby-bearing Luc Yen region.

A small village sits at the base of the mountains in the ruby-bearing Luc Yen region. Photo: Vincent Pardieu/GIA

Rubies from Luc Yen and other locales in Vietnam star in these four rings and necklace.

Rubies from Luc Yen and other locales in Vietnam star in these four rings and necklace. Photo: Shane McClure/GIA

4.04 carat (ct) ruby came from Mozambique, the pre-eminent source of commercial and fine rubies.

This fine 4.04 carat (ct) ruby came from Mozambique, the pre-eminent source of commercial and fine rubies. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Evan Caplan, GemFields

Mozambique is an important new, amphibole-related source for the July birthstone. This African nation is home to the prolific mines at Montepuez. Rubies found there have been compared to the famed gems of Mogok.

For many years in the late 1900s, the basalt-related ruby deposits along the border between Thailand and Cambodia were the major source of rubies in the marketplace. Other important producers include Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Madagascar.

Rubies from Madagascar are a bright, slightly orangy red.

Rubies from Madagascar are a bright, slightly orangy red. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Allerton Cushman & Co., Sun Valley, Idaho

 

July Birthstone: Qualities to Look for in Rubies

  • Color: Color is the most important quality factor for the July birthstone. The finest rubies have a pure, vibrant red to slightly purplish red color. A color that’s too orangy or too purplish is considered less desirable. The highest-quality rubies have vivid color saturation that is not too dark.
  • Clarity: People in the trade expect rubies to have at least some inclusions, because inclusion-free rubies are rare. The impact of inclusions on the value of a stone depends on their visibility. Obvious inclusions or inclusions that reduce transparency or brightness can lower a ruby’s value.
  • Cut: A ruby’s crystal shape dictates its suitability for certain cuts. Ruby crystals often have a flat tabular hexagonal shape, but crystals from some sources may be elongate.
  • Carat weight: Rubies are available in a wide range of sizes, but fine-quality rubies over a carat are rare and, not surprisingly, very expensive.
5.00 ct oval ruby is all the more radiant set in 18K rose gold and encircled by 2.53 carats of round diamonds in the halo and band.

This 5.00 ct oval ruby is all the more radiant set in 18K rose gold and encircled by 2.53 carats of round diamonds in the halo and band. Courtesy: Omi Privé

 

July Birthstone: Ruby Treatments, Care & Cleaning

Using warm soapy water is a safe option to clean ruby, the July birthstone. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are usually safe for untreated, heat-treated and lattice diffusion–treated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled or dyed stones should only be cleaned with a damp cloth.

Rubies are often heat treated to remove purplish coloration, leaving a purer red. The process can also remove “silk” (minute needle-like inclusions) that can cause a gem to appear lighter in tone and be more opaque. The trade typically accepts heat treatment to enhance color, as the treatment is stable to normal conditions of wear and care.

Lattice diffusion is a technique whereby heat and chemicals are used to diffuse a specific element into a gem to change its color. This treatment, too, is typically stable to normal wear and care.

Fracture filling is when a substance is introduced into surface-reaching fissures to make them less visible and thus improve the gem’s appearance. Common fillers include glass and glass-like substances, polymers and resins, and oils.

A high-lead-content glass is often used to fill fractures in rubies and thus improve their apparent clarity. There are many of these glass-filled rubies in the market, and in some cases the glass literally holds together a highly fractured gem. The glass can be damaged through contact with a variety of chemicals. Even relatively mild substances like concentrated lemon juice can etch the filler.

Dyeing with colored oils and filling small surface fissures with epoxies are other treatments. However, they are not permanent. These treatments need special care.

Always ask if your ruby has been treated before you buy. The Federal Trade Commission requires disclosure of treatments that affect a gemstone’s perceived value. A GIA Identification Report is important in identifying if a stone is natural or synthetic and whether it has been treated in any fashion.

Diamond and ruby bracelet shimmers with 20.56 carats of cabochon-cut rubies from Tanzania.

Reminiscent of the geometric shapes used in Art Deco–era jewelry, this diamond and ruby bracelet shimmers with 20.56 carats of cabochon-cut rubies from Tanzania. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

Whether or not you have a July birthstone, owning a beautiful ruby is a rare and precious thing. And if you love red gems in general, check out our Red Gemstone Buying Guide – Part 1 and Red Gemstone Buying Guide – Part 2 for some striking alternatives to ruby.

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Three-stone diamond engagement ring
Engagement Ring Styles to Flatter Her Hand and Finger

There are so many flattering engagement ring styles to choose from. How can you be sure that what looks great in the display case will also look great on her finger? Just follow these simple tips.

In this blog, we cover:
Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Shorter Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Larger Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Petite Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Long, Slender Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Any Type of Finger

 

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Shorter Fingers

Some brides seek a look that makes their shorter fingers appear longer. Others prefer a ring that harmonizes with them. By virtue of their shape, marquise, oval, rectangular and pear shaped diamonds are good engagement ring styles for a longer look. These elongated diamond shapes have a “north-south axis” that can accentuate the length of the finger.

Or your bride-to-be might like a round brilliant or princess cut center stone with small side stones, set in a narrow band. Such a ring would flatter her finger without drawing undue attention to its length.

Regardless of the diamond chosen, a simple design is usually a better option for short fingers. An engagement ring with a complicated design likely requires a larger canvas and can overwhelm the finger.

Pear-shaped diamond engagement ring.

Undeniably elegant, this 1.40 carat (ct) pear shape diamond can make her finger appear longer. Two tapered baguettes provide contrast to the center stone. The final creation is simple and stylish. Courtesy: EraGem.com

 

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Larger Fingers

Women with larger fingers enjoy a variety of options. They have the canvas to wear a larger stone, perhaps a large sapphire, ruby or tourmaline with diamond side stones. Choose a wide stone over a narrow one, to deemphasize the width of the finger. Cluster-set diamond engagement ring styles could also make a bold statement. Look into elaborate settings, with geometric designs or intricately carved gold. She can handle them with style!

A medium to wide band looks best on a larger finger, but make sure it is comfortable and does not look tight on the finger. Just as a dress that is too tight can make the wearer look heavier, so a ring that is too tight can accentuate the width of the finger.

Some shanks (the part of a ring that fits around the finger) might be constricting on fingers that are larger, and make ordinary movements uncomfortable. One option to get the wider band effect is to choose a setting that combines several thinner bands. This makes for a distinctive engagement ring style without drawing undue attention to the size of the finger.

A prong setting, especially one that raises the diamond off the band, is another good option for larger fingers. This engagement ring style can create the illusion of depth, which makes the finger appear narrower.

1.25 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with prong setting.

This ring featuring a 1.25 ct round brilliant cut diamond would look good on a larger finger. The prong setting raises the diamond above the finger, making it look more slender. Courtesy: Avigdor Jewelry

 

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Petite Fingers

Petite fingers often appear dainty and refined. So they are flattered by similar engagement ring styles. Small rings tend to look better on petite fingers. A big ring or gem is likely to overwhelm the hand and make the finger appear even smaller.

Some diamond cuts that work well on petite fingers are round brilliant, princess cut and oval. They are all good choices for engagement ring styles for smaller hands. Or consider a heart shape for a diamond that suits both the occasion and the delicacy of the finger.

Engagement ring styles with a simple design look best on petite fingers. A more complicated design is likely to be too distracting. Putting such a ring on a petite finger might make the hand look smaller.

Round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with platinum braided double shank.

A simple design. A thin, braided double shank. A round brilliant cut diamond. This engagement ring has all the ingredients to dazzle on a petite finger. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

 

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Long, Slender Fingers

Long, slender fingers have the most options for engagement ring styles because they can handle a variety of gems and settings. Still, as with all the finger types discussed thus far, proportion is important.

Larger diamonds and colored gems are good engagement ring styles for long fingers, which have the necessary surface area to display bigger stones. Likewise, long fingers can elongate stones like a marquise or emerald cut. A wide band can also provide a nice complement to the length of the finger.

2.01 ct emerald cut diamond engagement ring with tapered baguette accent stones

If a larger, elongated diamond flatters a slender finger, then this 2.01 ct emerald cut diamond would be a stunning choice. Another 0.25 carats of tapered baguettes accent the center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3 ct ruby ring flanked by two tapered baguette diamonds.

A ruby demands to be noticed, and is a lovely engagement ring style for someone with a long, slender finger. This 3 ct oval ruby has an enchantingly rich color and is flanked by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Long, slender fingers are also ideal candidates for stackable rings, bands that can be added to the original wedding and engagement rings to celebrate an anniversary or other special occasion. The longer the finger, the more bands you can add. It’s also a great way to update the look of the original jewel through the years.

Collection of stackable rings featuring melee diamonds.

An engagement ring, a wedding band, an anniversary band and one more to mark a special occasion – this collection of stackable rings would look elegant on a long, slender finger. The generous use of melee diamonds adds sparkle to these rings. Courtesy: Sandra Biachi

 

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Any Type of Finger

Some engagement ring styles are suitable for almost any length and shape of finger. Round brilliant and princess cut diamonds are classic choices for engagement ring center stones. They flatter no matter what the finger shape is. For a distinctive look, combine them with side stones that add to the sparkle of the ring.

1.28 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with tapered baguettes.

This 1.28 ct round brilliant cut diamond is a flattering choice for almost any finger. The tapered baguettes draw attention to the lovely center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

A three-stone engagement ring is another trending engagement ring style. The design is balanced, contemporary and works well – no matter what the size of the hand or finger is.

If it won’t spoil the surprise, have your loved one try on various diamonds and settings to see how they look. See for yourself what engagement ring styles works best on that very special finger.

Keep in mind, too, that the ring will be worn with a wedding band, which will affect the overall look.

Three-stone diamond engagement ring totaling 15.00 carats.

For yesterday, today and tomorrow – that is the symbolism of a three-stone diamond engagement ring. This stunner has a total weight of 15.00 carats. Courtesy: Rahaminov

Now that you know some engagement ring styles to adorn any shaped finger, here are some ways to make your diamond look bigger.

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A 2.40 ct Art Deco engagement ring with 0.85 carats of baguettes, triangular diamonds and trilliant cut synthetic rubies
Hungry for a Baguette Diamond Engagement Ring?

A baguette diamond, usually set in multiples, adds a dash of style to an engagement ring – or any jewelry piece. Popular since the Art Deco era, this dazzling diamond cut should be part of your shopping vocabulary. Here’s what you need to know.

In this blog, we cover:
Baguette Diamond: A Definition
Baguette Diamond: A Brief History
Baguette Diamond: What to Look For

Baguette Diamond: A Definition

Baguettes are small, usually rectangular, step-cut diamonds with straight or tapered edges. Some baguettes are almost square, while others have a length-to-width ratio of 5:1 or even longer. A tapered baguette diamond has long sides that angle inwards. Baguettes are popular side stones in engagement rings.

Baguette diamond illustration showing parallel edges

All the edges are parallel to each other in this baguette. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

An illustration showing long sides of a tapered baguette diamond angled inwards

The long sides of a tapered baguette angle inwards. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA
Channel-set tapered baguette diamond earrings

Channel-set tapered baguettes make these earrings visually arresting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Emerald cut diamonds are also rectangular or square step cuts. Unlike baguettes, though, they have diagonally cut—not square—corners.

An emerald cut diamond with diagonal corners

An emerald cut diamond has diagonal corners. A baguette does not. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

In a style called the ballerina setting, baguettes surround the center stone to form a skirt that resembles a ballerina’s tutu. While the tutu effect is best shown with tapered baguettes, so the skirt appears to flow out from the girdle of the center stone, other diamond shapes have also been used. For a ballerina setting, baguettes are typically channel set, though they are occasionally prong set.

An 18K yellow gold prong-set cocktail ring with a ruby center stone, accented with tapered baguettes to make a “ballerina setting.”

Tapered baguettes in a prong setting are used to make this “ballerina setting,” which encircles the ruby. Courtesy: The RealReal

An attractive novelty cut is the brilliant baguette. This is primarily a mixed cut, with brilliant-style facets (triangular and kite shaped) on the pavilion and step-cut facets on the crown. A benefit of this style is that it can add more sparkle to your diamond engagement ring.

Tapered baguette diamond with brilliant facets and accompanying illustration

The top image is a tapered baguette diamond with brilliant-style facets on the pavilion and step-cut facets on the crown. The bottom image shows where the crown and pavilion facets are typically placed. Photo and Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Tapered baguette diamond engagement ring with a 2.30 carat (ct) round brilliant center stone

Baguettes with a brilliant facet arrangement on the pavilion add even more visual fireworks to the 2.30 carat (ct) round brilliant center stone. Courtesy: Blue Nile

Dimensions are more important than weight when purchasing baguette diamonds, since they are usually sold in multiples. For example, if you were purchasing two of them–to sit on either side of a center stone–you or your jeweler would ask for two stones of equal dimensions – and not of equal carat weight.

 

Baguette Diamond: A Brief History

The origin of the term “baguette” for these small step-cut diamonds is up for debate. The traditional translation of the French word is “rod” or “stick,” but one meaning given in Randle Cotgrave’s 1673 French and English Dictionary is “a little jewel.” It is the diminutive of the French “bague,” which at the time meant “jewel” or, its current meaning, “ring.”

The rectangular step-cut diamond now called the baguette diamond is believed to have evolved from the hogback, an elongated table cut that was known since at least the mid-16th century. At that time, it was often used to make monograms and jeweled letters (like the owner’s initials). Cartier reintroduced the baguette cutting style in 1912, and in the following decades jewelry designers of the Art Deco period favored its clean lines and geometric shape. It was in the 20th century that the term “baguette” was first used in English to refer to this popular side stone as we know it today. Some think that the diamond cut was named after the long, thin loaf of French bread that it often resembles.

A 1.37 ct emerald cut Art Deco engagement ring accented with six baguette diamonds and 18 round brilliants

Six baguettes and 18 round brilliants border a 1.37 ct emerald cut diamond in this Art Deco ring (circa 1930s). The use of geometric shapes is a defining characteristic of the period. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 2.40 ct Art Deco engagement ring with 0.85 carats of baguettes, triangular diamonds and trilliant cut synthetic rubies

Another Art Deco treasure, this engagement ring features a 2.40 ct emerald cut center stone, 0.85 carats of baguettes and triangular diamonds, and 0.96 carats of trilliant cut synthetic rubies. Courtesy: The RealReal

The baguette diamond is frequently used in contemporary jewelry and engagement rings. So if you want a modern version of an Art Deco engagement ring, consider one with baguettes.

A 1.79 ct emerald cut engagement ring flanked by 0.70 carats of baguette cut diamonds

A bonanza of baguette diamonds with a total weight of approximately 0.70 carats, these slender beauties bring a majestic look to the 1.79 ct center stone. The ring, a contemporary creation, shows that the Art Deco look is alive and well. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

 

Baguette Diamond: What to Look For

Here are some tips for picking beautiful baguette diamond:

A 8.03 ct D-color marquise diamond flanked by two baguette diamond accents

An 8.03 ct D-color marquise diamond is the unquestioned star in this ring. Two flanking baguette diamonds play a supporting role: Their colors blend seamlessly and do not detract from the diamond’s beauty. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

  • All the baguettes in the ring should be similar in color and clarity, and they should match the center diamond. A baguette diamond whose color or clarity is noticeably different from another or from the center stone is likely to create an inharmonious and unappealing appearance.
  • Step cut means that the crown facets of the baguette are arranged in a terrace-like fashion parallel to the table edges. Slight deviations in the facets’ symmetry are usually visible to the naked eye and detract from the stone. Make sure all facets are parallel and symmetrical.
  • Avoid inclusions – they are usually more visible in a baguette diamond than a round brilliant.
  • Baguettes and tapered baguettes are purchased in sets. For simple accent stones on the shoulder of a ring, you may want one, two or three (for example) baguettes or tapered baguettes on each shoulder. They will need to match in length and width (and taper) to fit the channels. For straight baguettes, you will need to specify the length and width to 0.1 millimeter (mm) for a good match. For tapered baguettes, you’ll need to specify the wide and narrow end widths to 0.1 mm.
    To create a long curve, buy the appropriate number of tapered baguettes that range in length from X to Y, depending on the type of width range you want that curve to be. The stronger the taper, the sharper the curve, so ask for diamonds with a slight or strong taper.
  • Like most other diamonds, baguettes can be treated to enhance their appearance. Treatments may include high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) to enhance color or fracture filling to enhance apparent clarity. Synthetic diamond baguettes are also available in the marketplace. By law, a retailer must disclose if the diamonds you are purchasing are natural, treated or synthetic.
A 2.01 ct E-color emerald cut diamond flanked by two tapered baguette diamond accents

A 2.01 ct E-color SI1 emerald cut diamond is flanked by two tapered baguettes weighing approximately 0.35 carats in total. Baguettes mismatched in color or clarity would detract from the aristocratic splendor of the ring. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Baguette diamonds bring understated elegance wherever they are used. But there are other small diamonds to consider – particularly if you’re looking to add high drama and sparkle to your engagement ring. Meet melee diamonds and get to know these tiny diamonds with big impact.

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Semi-round South Sea cultured pearl necklace with blue sapphire accents
June Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Pearls

Coveted for millennia, the June birthstone still reigns supreme as the queen of modern fashion. Elegant, stylish and organic, pearls come in a rainbow of colors and a range of shapes. Our pearl primer will help you choose beautiful ones.

In this post, we cover:
What Is a Pearl?
Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Cultured Pearls
Pearl History and Lore
Where Pearls Come From
Pearl Qualities to Look For
Pearl Care and Cleaning

"Black Star" faceted Tahitian pearl

Faceted pearls are not your traditional cultured pearls. These avant-garde beauties can have 200+ facets on their surface. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Victor Tuzlukov


June Birthstone: What Is a Pearl?

A pearl is an organic gem that grows inside saltwater and freshwater mollusks. These soft-bodied animals possess one (univalve) or two (bivalve) shells. Mollusks are invertebrates, meaning they lack a spine or vertebrae.

Gemologists divide the June birthstone into two categories:

  • Natural Pearls: Pearls form without human intervention. When an irritant enters a mollusk, the mollusk secretes a mixture of calcium carbonate and conchiolin (called nacre). Like a protective shell, the nacre covers the irritant. Although used for adornment for thousands of years, today natural pearls are extremely rare and make up only a small fraction of total pearl sales.
Edwardian natural pearl necklace with alternating light and dark pearls

Natural pearls are the focal point in this necklace from the Edwardian era. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

  • Cultured Pearls: These are a product of human intervention. Technicians implant a piece of mantle tissue alone (common for freshwater cultured pearls) or with a mother-of-pearl shell bead (all saltwater) into a host mollusk. The mollusk covers the irritant with nacre, just like a natural pearl. Cultured pearls are raised in pearl farms – saltwater or freshwater operations where the mollusks are cleaned, protected from predators and eventually harvested. Cultured pearls account for the vast majority of pearl sales.


Cultured Pearls: Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater

Scientists estimate there are more than 100,000 different species of mollusks in the world’s waters. However, only a few dozen of these species produce the June birthstone and only about half of them are used to produce cultured pearls. Cultured pearls are classified by the species of mollusks that produce them.

Three akoya cultured pearls

Akoya cultured pearls have an undeniable elegance. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Akoya Cultured Pearls: The saltwater Pinctada fucata oyster produces white and cream-colored cultured pearls, generally between 2 and 11 mm in diameter, with the average being 6 to 8 mm. Akoya cultured pearls are often perfectly round and have a high luster (the light reflected from or near the pearl’s surface). Most akoya cultured pearls are commercially produced in Japan and China.

A necklace showing the many colors of Tahitian cultured pearls

The many different colors of Tahitian cultured pearls are on display in this exceptional necklace, which features 27 cultured pearls that range from 13 to 19 mm. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: A Private Collector and Mona Lee Nesseth, Custom Estate Jewels

Tahitian Cultured Pearls: Famous for their exotic, almost luminescent colors, these are the product of the saltwater Pinctada margaritifera oyster, which is native to the islands of French Polynesia. The mollusk produces pearls in bodycolors sometimes described in the trade with names like aubergine (dark grayish purple), pistachio (yellowish green to greenish yellow), or peacock (dark green-gray to blue-gray, with pink to purple overtones). Tahitian cultured pearls generally range from 9 to 14 mm in diameter, most commonly 9 to 11 mm.

Semi-round South Sea cultured pearl necklace with blue sapphire accents

This necklace of semi-round South Sea cultured pearls with blue sapphire accents makes a breathtaking statement. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Atelier Marisa

South Sea Cultured Pearls: The Pinctada maxima oyster is the largest of all saltwater cultured pearl oysters, and it can produce pearls from 8 to 20 mm in diameter; the average is 13 mm. There are two types of Pinctada maxima oysters: silver-lipped and gold-lipped. The silver-lipped oyster produces pearls that are mostly white to silver, sometimes with pink, blue or green overtones. The gold-lipped oyster produces mostly yellow to orangy yellow pearls, called “gold” or “golden” in the trade.

A handful of freshwater cultured pearls in many colors

Pearls come in many colors, like these freshwater cultured pearls from China. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Freshwater Cultured Pearls: From the mussel Hyriopsis cumingii or a hybrid, these pearls are produced primarily in the lakes, ponds and rivers of China. They come in many shapes, sizes (up to about 20 mm) and natural colors, including white, orange, lavender and purple. They are also dyed in a wide array of colors.

Gemologists love the June birthstone because of its luster – the reflection of light off its surface, and from concentric layers of nacre, like light bouncing off a convex mirror. Pearl’s texture also fascinates: Natural and cultured pearls have a slightly rough feeling when rubbed against your teeth, while imitation pearls are smooth. However, gemologists use X-rays to examine a pearl’s inner structure, which allows them to conclusively separate natural from cultured pearls.


June Birthstone: Pearl History and Lore

The origin of pearls fascinated our forebearers. Ancients from the Middle East believed that pearls were teardrops fallen from heaven. The Chinese fancied that the June birthstone came from the brain of a dragon. Christopher Columbus and his contemporaries thought that mollusks formed pearls from dew drops.

Pearls have long been associated with purity, humility and innocence. So it may be said that the June birthstone meaning is “sweet simplicity.” As such, pearls were traditionally given as a wedding gift.

The June birthstone was also thought to have beneficial properties. In the ancient Sanskrit text, the Atharvaveda, pearls were said to bestow long life and prosperity. In Asia, pearls were believed to help alleviate indigestion and hemorrhages. Arab physicians in the 1820s maintained that pearl powder improved eyesight, quieted nervous tremors and eased depression.

One of the most famous natural pearls is the 50.56 carat (ct) La Peregrina. About the size of a pigeon’s egg, the pearl was discovered in the 1500s in the Gulf of Panama. It became a prized possession of European royalty. Richard Burton eventually gifted it to Elizabeth Taylor in 1969; Christie’s New York auctioned it in 2011 for $11.8 million.

A two-strand necklace with 50.56 ct natural pearl pendant, accented with 56 saltwater natural pearls, four cultured pearls, rubies and diamonds

Literally a royal gem, Elizabeth Taylor’s 50.56 ct La Peregrina pearl was owned by eight Spanish kings, from Philip II (1582-1598) to Carlos IV (1778-1808). Cartier set the pearl as part of the pendant in this two-strand necklace that has 56 saltwater natural pearls, four cultured pearls, rubies and diamonds. Courtesy: Christie’s


June Birthstone: Where Pearls Come From

You’ll have to set sail for pristine waters if you want to find the June birthstone. Pearl-bearing mollusks fail to thrive in polluted waters, so pearl farms are usually located far from civilization – and often in breathtaking settings.

Saltwater pearls are grown in many areas around the world. Akoya cultured pearl farms are primarily found in Japan and China, especially along the southern coasts of Guangdong and Guangxi provinces. South Sea cultured pearls are farmed from the northern coast of Australia through Indonesia to the southern coast of Southeast Asia, with large operations in the Philippines as well. The Gambier Islands and the Tuamotu Archipelago, both part of French Polynesia, are two locales where the rich black Tahitian pearls are cultured.

An akoya cultured pearl farm in Ago Bay, Japan

Ago Bay, Japan is one of the most important sites for akoya cultured pearl farms. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

Freshwater cultured pearls are primarily grown in China, within a 400 mile (644 km) radius of Shanghai.

A cultured pearl farm in French Polynesia

The breeding waters of a cultured pearl farm in French Polynesia look like a piece of paradise. Photo: Amanda Luke/GIA

Natural pearls have been found in the Arabian Gulf (Persian Gulf) for at least 5,000 years, while divers have been recovering the June birthstone from the Red Sea since 300 BCE. The Strait of Mannar has been providing pearls since 2000 BCE. Starting in the 16th century, during Spanish colonial rule, large quantities of pearls were recovered from the waters off Mexico, Central America and what is now Venezuela. Only small quantities of pearls are found in any of these areas today.


June Birthstone: Pearl Qualities to Look For

As you’re shopping for pearls and comparing quality and prices, keep in mind the seven factors gemologists use to evaluate and describe the quality of the June birthstone. Known as the GIA 7 Pearl Value FactorsTM, they are:

  1. Size: Pearl measurements are stated in millimeters, rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm. All things being equal, the larger the pearl, the greater its value.
  2. Shape: GIA categorizes pearls as one of seven shapes:
    • Round
    • Near-round (almost round, with minor variations)
    • Oval
    • Button (symmetrical, circular and flattened)
    • Drop (symmetrical, rounded or pear shaped)
    • Semi-baroque (not quite symmetrical; an off-round)
    • Baroque (has no apparent symmetry and is noticeably irregular)
  3. Color: Pearl color has three components:
    • Bodycolor – The dominant, overall color of the pearl
    • Overtone – A translucent color that appears to layer over a large area of the pearl’s surface
    • Orient – More than one translucent color over the bodycolor, or surface iridescence
  4. Luster: The intensity and sharpness of the light reflected from a pearl’s surface. There are five categories of luster: excellent, very good, good, fair and poor.
  5. Surface: The nature and number of blemishes or irregularities on the pearl. As products of nature, few pearls are completely blemish free. Pearl surface is described as clean, lightly spotted, moderately spotted, or heavily spotted.
  6. Nacre Quality: The thickness and regularity of the nacre. For nacre quality to be acceptable on a bead-nucleated cultured pearl, no evidence of the bead should be visible and there should be no chalkiness.
  7. Matching: This factor applies when evaluating a strand of pearls or a jewelry item with two or more pearls. Excellent matching requires a uniform appearance across all the pearls, with the drill hole on center.

You should also know that cultured pearls routinely undergo treatment to improve their appearance. Some may be color enhanced by heating, dyeing, irradiation and coating. Other treatments include:

  • Bleaching – To whiten them and create a uniform appearance
  • Tinting – The use of a red dye to turn akoya cultured pearls pink (also called pinking)
  • Buffing – Tumbling pearls in a canister (or similar device) to remove surface imperfections
Diamond and Tahitian cultured pearl cluster earrings

Take special care when cleaning pearl jewelry like these diamond and Tahitian cultured pearl earrings. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Mastoloni, New York


June Birthstone: Pearl Care and Cleaning

Pearls are 2.5 to 3.0 on the Mohs Scale of hardness, so they are a comparatively soft gem and require special care. Store them separately from other gemstones and metal jewelry to prevent scratching. Never store pearls in a plastic bag — plastic can emit a chemical that will damage their surface. Always apply perfume, hair products and cosmetics before putting on your pearl jewelry. The best way to clean your June birthstone: Use a soft, damp cloth, ideally after each time they are worn.

Read more tips on how to care for pearl jewelry to keep your watery treasures beautiful.

June is a month for celebrations, be it weddings, anniversaries, graduations or birthdays. And what better way to celebrate than with the June birthstone. From a classic strand of akoya cultured pearls to a single faceted Tahitian cultured pearl, there’s a look for every taste and budget.

Pearls are trending. Five Easy Pieces shows how to wear them with style.

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A 14K white gold split-shank engagement ring with a 2.11 ct cushion cut center stone
The Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — A Classic Shape

The cushion cut engagement ring is surging in popularity. This distinctive pillow-shaped diamond is the modern heir to the historic old mine cut diamond. Looking for an engagement ring with a vintage look and classic style? Get inspired!

A cushion cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by an arrangement of small diamonds

The intricate arrangement of small diamonds, called melee diamonds, surrounding this cushion cut diamond gives this ring an aristocratic air. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — What to Look For

Cushion cut diamonds — both antique and modern — have curved sides and rounded corners. Part of the charm of cushion cut diamonds is their variety. Some have elongated, rectangular proportions and others resemble rounded squares. There’s also a great diversity in the arrangement of their facets that affects their appearance. In addition, this style is well suited to fancy-color diamonds.

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond is accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank. Courtesy: Dana Rebecca Designs

Some cushion cut diamonds have all the fire of round brilliant cut diamonds, while others have a more subtle glow. As when choosing any diamond, try on a number of rings to find your favorite. A beautiful cushion cut is symmetrical so the opposing sides should mirror each other.

Cushion Cut Engagement Rings Aren’t Just for Celebrities

An engagement ring featuring a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank

Stately and sophisticated, this engagement ring features a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank. Milgrain (the rows of tiny beads that outline certain sections) give the ring a vintage feel. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

The number of celebrities who choose this distinctive cut for their engagement rings is proof of the cachet of the cushion cut engagement ring. The celebrities who sport them have styles that range from outrageously flashy to quietly refined. Liam Hemsworth gave Miley Cyrus a 19th century 3.5 ct cushion cut set in yellow gold with engraved flowers. Molly Sims’ cushion cut engagement ring features a classic halo setting, and Kim Kardashian’s original 15 ct jewel floats atop a delicately bejeweled band.

3.22 ct Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond

Set in a simple mounting, this 3.22 ct Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond is spectacular. Flanking it are two side stones with a total weight of 1.08 carats. Courtesy: Sasha Primak

Hollywood celebrities can offer inspiration when selecting a diamond engagement ring, but let your personal style guide your choice of ring setting. The gently rounded cushion shape suits virtually any sensibility.

The cushion cut engagement ring is timeless. It looks contemporary, but in an antique-style setting it speaks of the romantic past. And its pedigree is impeccable. Could this be a diamond you would wear as your engagement ring?

Are you ready to buy this intriguing diamond cut? It’s pays to learn more about it, including more details about what to look for when selecting the perfect cushion cut diamond.

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Use of this site signifies your agreement to its terms of use.
© 2002 – 2025 Gemological Institute of America Inc.
GIA is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization.
All rights reserved.