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Engagement Ring Settings to Make Your Diamond Look Bigger

April 18, 2017

Engagement ring settings should be both beautiful and practical. A setting defines your ring style, adds drama to the diamond and protects it from loss or damage. The right setting and band can also make your diamond look bigger and even more sparkling.

If you’re looking to create an illusion of size, here are some tips for engagement ring settings that can make your diamond “grow.” But first, let’s start by debunking some dubious recommendations floating around the internet.

What Doesn’t Make a Diamond Look Bigger

Diamond shape and carat weight: While a diamond’s outline – round, rectangular, oval, pear, marquise — can have some influence on the overall perception of diamond size, the shape of a diamond alone does not guarantee the stone will look bigger. The same is true for diamond carat weight. Just because one diamond weighs more than another of the same shape doesn’t mean it will look bigger. Similarly, one diamond might look bigger than another of the same shape and weight, but may be less appealing overall. That’s because there might be many factors at play, especially those related to the quality of the diamond’s cut and how its weight is distributed.

Illustration showing diamond with bulge on either side of the pavilion.

A diamond’s shape – and even its carat weight – won’t guarantee a large-looking gem. Excessive bulge, shown here by the shaded areas on either side of the pavilion, adds to a diamond’s weight without contributing to the stone’s perceived size. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Here are some examples:

A diamond with shallow cut proportions may be physically wider and longer, but it will be far less appealing. That’s because a lot of the light that enters the crown of a shallow diamond might exit through the pavilion, making the diamond look dull and unattractive.
A shallow pavilion depth – less than 38 percent – can create a “fish eye” effect, seen as an unattractive gray ring under the table. (Pavilion depth is measured as the distance from the bottom of the girdle plane to the culet.) As above, the diamond may be physically wider and longer, but the stone will have a dull, flat look.

What’s a crown, pavilion, girdle and culet? Learn more about diamond anatomy.

On marquise, pear and heart shaped diamonds, the sides near the points are called wings. If they’re too flat, they make the stone look too narrow. If they’re too rounded, they make it look short and stubby.

On the left, flat wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking too narrow. On the right, rounded wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking stubby. Photos: Kate Waterman/GIA

White metal band: A common misconception about engagement ring settings is that a white metal band can act like a mirror to reflect and amplify a diamond’s size. The logic seems sound until you consider that a rose gold or yellow gold band could serve as a dramatic counterpoint to the diamond, making it look bigger. So a white metal band is not a foolproof solution.

Diamond ring with 5.31 carats of diamonds in a rose gold setting.

You decide if the 5.31 carats of diamonds in this ring pop because of the rose gold setting. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Colored gemstones: Colored accent stones provide dramatic contrast to a center stone, but do they make the diamond look larger? Not necessarily. One could convincingly argue that a colored stone would compete with a diamond, thus distracting the eye.

Slender prongs: A potentially troublesome myth about engagement ring settings is that the less a prong covers a diamond, the more of the gem that’s shown, so the bigger it will look. While this may be true technically, it is not advisable. Prongs serve an essential function: they hold a diamond securely in place. Skimp on the necessary size and number of prongs, and you risk losing the diamond.

What Does Make a Diamond Look Bigger

Here are some engagement ring settings to consider if you’re looking to boost the appearance of your diamond’s size.

Illusion setting: During the Great Depression of the 1930s, when few could afford large diamonds, jewelers sometimes set a diamond in a head made of a fluted white metal. The shiny metal was made with ripples, so the whole head looked like the diamond it reflected. This setting was so successful in delivering an illusion of size that it’s still used today.

TIP: The purpose of the illusion setting is to make a near-colorless diamond look larger, and white metal is required to achieve this particular effect. If the diamond is yellow in color, then a yellow gold illusion setting is a better choice.
TIP: Diamonds smaller than 0.50 carat (ct) are good candidates for illusion engagement ring settings. You’d probably want to showcase a diamond 0.50 ct or larger on its own, instead of relying on the illusion setting to work its optical magic.

Engagement ring with illusion setting and diamonds with a total weight of 0.12 carats

The total weight of diamonds in this ring is just 0.12 carats, but the illusion setting makes them appear much larger than they really are. Courtesy: EraGem

Toi et Moi engagement ring in an illusion setting featuring two diamonds with a total weight of 1.18 carats.

Here’s an example of a Toi et Moi (“You and Me”) engagement ring in an illusion setting. The total weight of the two diamonds is 1.18 carats, but they look larger because of the illusion setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet

Cluster setting: This engagement ring setting places several small diamonds of similar size next to each other. This technique maximizes sparkle and gives the illusion of a single diamond that is much larger in size (and more costly) than the melee diamonds used to make it.

TIP: Diamonds of the same or similar color grades work best in a cluster setting. Diamond manufacturers know this, and match color grades when producing these kinds of rings. So you won’t have to worry about selecting the many smaller diamonds that will be part of your cluster setting.
TIP: The more metal surrounding a stone, the more it is protected. Cluster settings have lots of metal. So your diamonds will be better safeguarded against damage.

Diamond ring with a cluster setting creates the illusion of three large gems using only 0.29 carats of diamonds.

Three diamonds or 58? You might not be able to tell from a distance. In this ring, the cluster setting creates the illusion of three large gems using only 0.29 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem

Halo setting: When a ring of smaller diamonds is artfully placed around a center stone, the center stone can appear to be the size of the halo.

TIP: Engagement ring manufacturers select the melee that makes the halo, so you won’t have to worry about picking the many small diamonds that will go into the engagement ring setting.
TIP: A diamond center stone weighing 0.50 ct or more works best in this kind of setting because the melee in the halo will enhance it. You probably wouldn’t want to use a smaller diamond, since it would be too close in size to the melee. That combination would probably look like a pavé set ring with one diamond (the center stone) somewhat larger than the rest.
TIP: The prongs on halo diamonds tend to wear out faster. Should you go with this style, be sure to have your ring routinely checked by your jeweler.

Diamond engagement ring with double halo setting surrounding a 1.17 carat cushion cut center stone.

Where does the center stone end and the halo start? Here’s how the trick of the eye works. This double halo set with 0.50 carats of diamonds makes the 1.71 ct cushion cut center stone look even larger. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Pavé setting: To achieve this popular technique, many diamonds 0.20 ct or smaller are set into tapered holes in a metal surface, nestled close to the melee stones next to them. Pavé creates an appearance of uninterrupted diamonds in the band, which can make the center stone look larger.

TIP: Pavé set diamonds in engagement ring settings are typically very secure, as the diamonds are set into metal. However, should a diamond fall out, it is more difficult for a bench jeweler to replace it.
TIP: Avoid engagement ring settings with pavé set diamonds on the bottom of the shank. This area of the ring is exposed to a lot of friction, so the diamonds are more easily lost or damaged.

Diamond engagement ring featuring pavé set diamonds and a 1.00 carat emerald cut center stone.

The pavé set diamonds in this engagement ring glitter like stars in the night sky. The center stone is a 1.00 ct emerald cut diamond. Courtesy: EraGem

Bezel setting: In this setting style, a band of metal surrounds the diamond’s girdle. As a result, the diamond’s circumference may appear to be larger. Bezel engagement ring settings also afford extra protection against accidental bangs and bumps.

TIP: The bezel setting is generally used for round and oval diamonds. It is more difficult to create a bezel setting for other shapes, such as square and marquise diamonds.
TIP: Like rock climbing? Playing lacrosse? Vigorous exercise? The bezel setting protects the center stone, so it is a great choice for active people.
TIP: A bezel setting could deaden the brightness of a poorly cut diamond.

Diamond engagement ring with bezel settings.

This 0.53 ct diamond appears larger because of the bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Invisible setting: For this technique, small diamonds are cut with grooved pavilions and then slipped into a thin wire framework. This eliminates the need for prongs and allows the gems to be set against each other. The result is that the entire diamond is visible, and groups of diamonds can look like one large gem.

TIP: There is a drawback. Should a diamond in an invisible setting be damaged, it is extremely difficult to repair or replace it. So Invisible diamond engagement ring settings are probably not a good idea for physically active individuals.

Yellow gold ring with diamonds in an invisible setting.

An invisible setting can give the appearance of a field of diamonds. Courtesy: Ambar Diamonds

More Tips to Make Your Diamond Look Bigger

Choose a thin ring shank or band: Here’s a way to trick the eye. A thin band can make a diamond look larger. Similarly, a thick band might overshadow the diamond.

Diamond ring with thick white metal band.

Left photo: A thick band nearly overwhelms the 1.68 ct diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co., Inc. Right photo: What a difference a band makes. The main diamond in this ring rightfully takes center stage. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International

Add side stones to your engagement ring setting: This is a great way to add sparkle and size to an engagement ring – and the options are endless. You could add a diamond baguette on each side of the center stone. You could pick colored stones to create contrast. You could use different colored metals around the side stones.

Unlike the melee used for pavé and halo settings, you may have the opportunity to choose the side stones. If you are uncomfortable making the choice, read our advice on choosing engagement ring side stones to get you started. If you have any questions, ask your jeweler for help, he/she will have a trained eye.

And last, but certainly by no means least: keep your diamond clean. While a clean diamond won’t look bigger, per se, it will display that signature sparkle that telegraphs “diamond” across a crowded room – and isn’t that what it’s all about?

Speaking of diamond sparkle, here are some tips and tricks to get the most sparkle out of your diamond engagement ring.

Side Stone Settings for Engagement Rings

December 13, 2012

When choosing an engagement ring, there is more to consider beyond gemstone types. We covered popular center stone settings, and now we’ll share with you a few side stone setting styles. There are many options designed to enhance the gemstone’s beauty while reflecting the personality and lifestyle of its wearer. (more…)

How to Shop for Antique and Vintage Engagement Rings

March 1, 2018

Antique and vintage engagement rings are in fashion – and for good reason. They have an undeniable charm and style. They are a beautiful piece of the past. They’re lasting symbols of love. Here’s how to pick one that you’ll cherish.

In this blog, we cover:
Establishing a budget for antique and vintage engagement rings
Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings
Important jewelry periods for antique and vintage engagement rings
Diamond cuts typical of antique and vintage engagement rings
Challenges with buying antique and vintage engagement rings
Where to find antique and vintage engagement rings

Establishing a budget for antique and vintage engagement rings

Prices for antique and vintage engagement rings run the gamut from less than $1,000 to more than $100,000. Put another way, there are beautiful rings for every budget. Deciding what to spend is a personal decision that balances practicality and love. You know what’s best for your circumstances.

A 1.12 carat cushion cut diamond engagement ring with 0.48 carats of melee.

If you’re looking for an antique engagement ring, aristocratic elegance is a hallmark of the Edwardian era. In this intricate creation, a 1.12 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond nestles within approximately 0.48 carats of diamond melee. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle

Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings

Before we dive into the details of shopping for antique and vintage engagement rings, here are a few terms you need to know:

Antique: Jewelry made more than 100 years ago
Vintage: Jewelry that is not contemporary, but not old enough to be antique
Estate: Preowned jewelry – can be antique, vintage or contemporary

Understanding the difference between antique and vintage engagement rings will be helpful for your search. If you’re interested in an engagement ring from a specific period, like the Victorian era, you’ll want to use the proper terminology to help the retailer find the appropriate pieces. It also shows that you’re an educated customer.

Victorian style heart shaped moonstone engagement ring surrounded with a halo if diamonds.

With its heart shaped moonstone cradled in a halo of diamonds, this Victorian era engagement ring sparkles with romance. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Important jewelry periods for antique and vintage engagement rings

Throughout history, certain periods or cultural movements have had a signature jewelry style. Your delightful challenge will be finding antique and vintage engagement rings and choosing one that best captures the spirit of your love. Here are brief descriptions of rings made during some of the more important jewelry periods.

Victorian (1837–1901): During the long reign of Queen Victoria, engagement rings featured a number of romantic design motifs, including acrostics (using the first letter of gemstones to spell a word), serpents, flowers, hearts and more. With the discovery of diamonds in South Africa during the latter half of her reign, diamonds became more common. The Victorian era spanned many decades, so you’re likely to find antique engagement rings from this era that charm your heart and eye.

Learn more about Victorian style engagement rings.

Gold snake motif engagement ring featuring two coiled serpents set with ruby, diamond and emerald.

An engagement ring with a snake motif might seem unusual to modern eyes. To Victorians, the serpent symbolized love, eternity and wisdom. Two coiled serpents are set with ruby, diamond and emerald. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Art Nouveau (1890s–early 1910s): Antique engagement rings of this period can be identified by the use of sinuous whiplash lines, enamel and unusual colored gems. Jewelry designers were strongly inspired by nature. They made fantastical pieces often depicting peacocks, swans, swallows, bats, dragonflies and butterflies, as well as the feminine form. Asymmetry (a lack of proportion between two parts of an object) and the economy of line (the elimination of non-essential elements) are other signature design features of this period.

Learn more about Art Nouveau engagement rings.

Art Nouveau antique engagement ring with diamonds and dramatic swirling lines.

Dramatic swirling lines, a signature of Art Nouveau jewelry, infuse this ring with a sense of movement while diamonds add sparkle. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Edwardian (1890s–1915): Triumphal laurel wreaths, scrolls, feathers, tassels, ribbons tied in bowknots, garlands of flowers, platinum and diamonds gave Edwardian era engagement rings a regal look, in keeping with the fashion established by Victoria’s heir, King Edward VII. The marquise cut diamond was also in fashion; the elegant shape was supposedly named for the Marquise de Pompadour, a mistress of France’s King Louis XV, because its outline resembled the shape of her mouth.

Learn more about Edwardian engagement rings.

A 1.63 carat elongated oval diamond engagement ring surrounded by milgrain and delicate open work.

This 1.63 ct elongated oval diamond is surrounded by milgrain and delicate open work that are characteristic of the Edwardian era. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

Art Deco (1920s–1930s): For engagement rings of this period, look for geometric patterns and abstract designs brought to life with diamonds and gems of contrasting colors. Triangles, squares, rectangles and other geometric patterns were used to evoke the streamlined, modern spirit of the time. If you love a simple, yet bold style, then Art Deco vintage engagement rings would suit your taste.

A 3.00 carat emerald cut vintage diamond engagement ring boarded by emeralds.

A 3.00 ct emerald cut diamond bordered by emeralds captures the geometric patterns and contrasting colors that are classic Art Deco. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

Learn more about Art Deco engagement rings.

Retro (mid-1930s to the 1950s): Retro era engagement rings featured the geometric shapes of the Art Deco era but softened them with curves. Gold, especially rose gold, was the metal of choice. Expect to see these vintage engagement rings set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine. Diamonds tended to be small, so jewelers used techniques like the illusion setting to make them appear larger. Designs were inspired by mechanical objects such as bicycle chains and padlocks.

Learn more about Retro-style engagement rings.

Retro engagement ring with rubies and diamonds.

Wearable sculpture is a perfect way to describe this Retro era engagement ring. The diamonds shine brighter for being juxtaposed against rubies. Courtesy: Lang Antiques.com

Diamond cuts typical of antique and vintage engagement rings

If you’re looking for antique engagement rings, you’re likely to come across the terms old mine cut and old European cut diamonds.

An old mine cut diamond is a squarish or cushion shaped brilliant with many proportion variations that was often used in jewelry during the Georgian (1714–1837) and early to mid-Victorian periods. Although it has 58 facets like most modern round brilliant cut diamonds, it typically has a smaller table, larger culet and higher crown. It also has short lower half facets and a girdle that is very thin in places, which contribute to its distinctive look.

No two old mine cut diamonds are identical. This one weighs 0.68 ct. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

The old European cut emerged as advances in diamond cutting technology in the late 1800s made it possible to fashion round girdles, like the modern round brilliant, though it has a higher crown, very small table and greater total depth. It is typically found in jewelry from the late Victorian era, the Edwardian era and the Art Deco period.

This 0.99 ct old European cut diamond has a stately elegance. Photo: Orasa Weldon/ GIA

A 0.73 carat round brilliant cut diamond.

The round brilliant cut diamond, here at 0.73 carats, has been the standard for engagement rings since the mid-20th century. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/GIA

Challenges with buying antique and vintage engagement rings

Antique and vintage engagement rings can be a unique choice for your bride-to-be, but there are some challenges you should be aware of before you make a purchase.

Synthetic Gems and Simulants:
When shopping for antique and vintage engagement rings, it’s not uncommon to find some set with synthetic gems or simulants. Synthetic rubies have been around since the late 1800s, and both synthetic rubies and sapphires were very popular in the early to mid-1900s as they made jewelry more affordable. During the Art Deco era in particular, small calibré cut synthetic rubies and sapphires often served to accent diamonds in engagement rings and other jewelry. By the middle of the 20th century, synthetic emerald was also available, and by the 1970s we had synthetic alexandrite, opal, turquoise, citrine and amethyst, among others.
Simulants, like garnet-and-glass doublets in different colors (not just red, but also blue, green and even colorless) and other imitations, were commonly used in place of natural gemstones. Synthetics and simulants were often mixed with natural gems or diamonds. Over the years, fine gems in some pieces of antique or vintage jewelry have been removed and replaced with less-expensive imitations. The bottom line: Don’t assume that just because a ring is older, the stones are natural.
Thinning Prongs and Shanks:
With time, prongs on antique and vintage engagement rings can weaken from years of wear. When prongs are thin or worn, they can’t hold the stone as securely, making it vulnerable to loss. Retipping a prong usually requires removal and resetting of the stone, which always comes with some level of risk. Similarly, the back of the shank may be too thin on some rings, so it may need to be replaced with a new quarter shank or half shank.
Resizing Issues:
Antique and vintage engagement rings can be very difficult to resize, especially to go significantly larger or smaller. Consult with your jeweler on how to determine ring size before you buy.
Return Policy:
What happens if the engagement ring you bought doesn’t meet your expectations (or those of your bride-to-be) when you get it home? Our suggestion: Make sure the retailer has a generous and fair return policy. You should insist on having at least seven days to return an item.

Retro era engagement ring with two baguette diamonds weighing 0.60 carats and about 2.00 carats of melee.

A distinctive geometric pattern with both strong angles and curves incorporates two baguette diamonds weighing approximately 0.60 carats and about 2.00 carats of melee in this Retro era ring. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Where to find antique and vintage engagement rings

A number of websites specialize in antique and vintage engagement rings. To determine if an online retailer is trustworthy, look to see how long they have been in business and if they are in good standing with the Better Business Bureau. Be sure to speak with retailers directly both to get answers to your questions and see if they are knowledgeable professionals. It is wise to purchase items with diamonds that come with GIA Grading Reports. Our blog on the Five Non-Negotiable Rules for Buying Jewelry Online has more essential information that may be helpful during your search.

Auction catalogs and websites that sell estate jewelry are two other sources. In addition, you can search the GIA Retailer Lookup for retailers who carry GIA-graded diamonds. Some of them also sell antique and vintage engagement rings, so it may be a good place to start.

A 0.85 ct octagonal emerald cut diamond Art Deco engagement ring accompanied by eight rectangular baguette cut diamonds and a group of round old European cut diamonds.

Contrasting geometric shapes create a sum greater than its parts in this Art Deco ring. A 0.85 ct octagonal emerald cut diamond is the center stone, accompanied by eight rectangular baguette cut diamonds and a group of round old European cut diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Once you find your perfect antique or vintage engagement ring, consider getting an unbiased appraisal from an experienced jeweler or independent jewelry appraiser. The appraisal should provide you with a full description of the piece, including its condition, as well as validate its historical period and estimate its value.

Searching for antique and vintage engagement rings can be like going through a treasure chest filled with lots of precious surprises. If you’re having a tough time finding one that’s right for you, consider creating a custom engagement ring with these antique and vintage styles in mind.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: How to Get the Look

July 25, 2017

Retro style engagement rings and cocktail rings have a distinctive look. Gold mountings, diamond baguettes, colored gems and invisible settings are just some of its design elements. Here’s how you can re-create a striking classic.

The Retro era spanned approximately 1935 to the 1950s, a period that included the Great Depression and World War II. It had its roots firmly planted in the Art Deco era that came before. Jewelry designers took Art Deco’s bold lines and geometric shapes and softened them with curves, creating pieces that had a sculptural quality. Gold was usually the metal of choice, as platinum was reserved for wartime uses. Jewelry designers also used vivid color combinations of rubies, sapphires and emeralds; as the Retro era moved farther away from Art Deco, they incorporated more muted colors with stones like topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine.

Finding authentic vintage engagement rings from the Retro era can be challenging. The ravages of war destroyed many jewelry businesses and their inventories. During the war years, jewelry designs became simpler and lighter weight to reduce the amount of metal used and to keep items affordable. Countless pieces around the world were broken up and the materials repurposed once hostilities ended.

Jewelers devised ingenious ways to adapt to these challenges. One innovation was to alloy a low karat gold with a higher percentage of copper. The result was gold with an attractive reddish tinge. Chains that were hollow (instead of solid) and the use of large, inexpensive stones were other techniques in this time of scarcity. This allowed jewelers to create a big look for less money.

Diamonds in engagement rings of the Retro era were small; in addition to the war sapping resources and interrupting gemstone supply lines, enlisted men had scant disposable income for jewelry. The illusion setting and white gold detailing were ways jewelers made smaller stones look larger.

This 0.75 carat (ct) diamond looks larger than it is because of the white gold illusion setting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rose Tozer

If engagement rings of the period were modest, cocktail rings of the same era were exuberant and showy. Popularized during Prohibition (1920 to 1933), cocktail rings were a symbol that one was proudly flouting the law against drinking alcohol. The signature of the design – large and flashy – remained largely unchanged as styles evolved during the Retro period.

Cylinders, scrolls, fans, prisms and asymmetry were common stylistic motifs. Red and yellow gold were the metals of choice; again, because of the demands of the defense industry, platinum made an appearance only occasionally.

Considering the challenges Retro-era jewelers faced when making engagement rings, your search for vintage engagement rings just might lead you to create your own by using design motifs from the period and finding inspiration in cocktail rings.

Here are some of the signature design elements to help you get that Retro style.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Go Sculptural

Retro designers took the sharp angular lines of Art Deco jewelry and reimagined them with curved edges. Geometric shapes also went from having a two-dimensional look in Art Deco jewelry to a three-dimensional look in the Retro era. This gave the jewelry a chunky, sculptural quality. Current events and the spirit of the times also influenced jewelry designers. The machine age was at its height and WW II left its mark. Gears, cylinders, and all types of mechanical objects became the inspiration for bold new designs. Links resembled tank treads, and chain resembled gas pipe.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Embrace Bold Colors

As noted above, bold color combinations were common in early Retro jewelry. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds were favorite choices as styles transitioned from Art Deco. Gems with more muted colors like topaz, citrine, green beryl and aquamarine eventually became popular. So adding colored gemstones can be one way to infuse your engagement ring with Retro style.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Warm it up with Yellow or Rose Gold

During World War II, platinum was in high demand by defense manufacturers because of its malleability, resistance to acids and high melting point. They used it to make tubes, fuses, sparkplugs and explosives for the war effort. So jewelers turned to gold, which became the predominant metal of vintage engagement rings of the Retro era.

Wartime restrictions on metals forced jewelers to be inventive. They had to use low-karat gold, and often alloyed it with greater amounts of copper, creating a metal with an appealing reddish hue. The warm and beautiful hues of rose gold are now popular in contemporary engagement rings. Other alloys created other colors of gold, which were often mixed in a single piece of jewelry.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Popular Settings

The illusion setting mentioned above was popular with wartime brides and grooms because it made the center stone appear larger. These settings are still very popular and can be an easy way to get the Retro style.

The star setting – placing a gem in the center of an engraved star – was another recurring motif in Retro-era jewelry. Perhaps the imagery offered the wearer an escape to a kinder realm, far away from the travails of the time. It’s a motif that can be carried to wedding bands to complement a Retro-style look.

Also popular during the Retro era was the invisible, or “mystery,” setting. Patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1930s, this technique results in no visible metal around the gemstones. Special grooves are cut into the gems below the girdle, and the gems are held in place using metal rails that fit into these grooves.

Retro Style Engagement Rings: Add Baguettes to Complete the Retro Look

Rectangular step-cut diamonds (called baguettes) were often seen in Retro-era jewelry. Used as side stones and as design elements, baguettes created an elegant and sophisticated look.

The Retro era gave birth to a dazzling variety of ring designs, so there’s no shortage of inspiration waiting for you. Once you’ve settled on your own design, you’ll probably want to start shopping for a diamond. Before you begin, be sure you know your 4Cs of Diamond Quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight.

How to Buy A Diamond

July 16, 2024

Regardless of which diamond you choose, every purchase should start with accurate information. A GIA diamond grading report ensures that you know exactly what you are buying.

10 Tips for Buying a Diamond Engagement Ring

July 21, 2022

Looking for the perfect diamond engagement ring? You’ll need to know about the 4Cs of diamond quality, metal characteristics, setting styles and more.

Follow these 10 tips for buying an engagement ring to make a smart purchase:

Know the 4Cs
Know diamond shapes and cut styles
Look at diamonds under different lighting
Pick a metal for the band
Choose the setting
Consider side stones
Know styles, motifs and trends
Measure ring size
Pick a reputable jeweler
Insist on a diamond grading report

The diamonds in this image show Poor, Good and Excellent cut grade from left to right. Photo: Kevin Schumacher/ GIA

1. Know the 4Cs

The first tip for buying a diamond engagement ring is to know the 4Cs: Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight. Created by GIA, the 4Cs are the global standard for assessing the quality of diamonds and allow you to compare one diamond to another.

In brief, the 4Cs are:

Color: Color is graded on a D-to-Z scale, with D meaning that a diamond is completely colorless and Z meaning that a diamond has light yellow or brown color. In this color range, diamonds with less color are rarer and more highly sought-after.
Clarity: Diamond clarity refers to the absence of internal features, called inclusions, and surface irregularities, called blemishes. Clarity is graded on a scale from Flawless to Included.
Cut: The quality of a diamond’s cut determines how well it interacts with light. A diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish determine its brightness (or brilliance), scintillation (or sparkle) and fire (flashes of color).
Carat Weight: Diamond carat weight determines a diamond’s apparent size. Generally speaking, the greater the carat weight, the rarer and more valuable the diamond, if the other Cs are comparable.

Once you understand what the 4Cs mean, the next step is to ask yourself “Which C is the most important to me?” Prioritizing the 4Cs will help you quickly eliminate some diamonds from your search and hone in on the diamond that’s right for you. It will also help you work with your budget, knowing which C you are willing to spend more on and which you are willing to compromise on.

A range of fancy diamond shapes and cuts

These fancy diamond shapes include, from left to right: cushion cut, square emerald cut (aka Asscher cut), emerald cut, radiant cut, oval cut, marquise cut and pear cut. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

2. Know diamond shapes and cut styles

Before you start shopping for an engagement ring, you should understand the difference between a diamond’s shape and its cutting style. Shape describes a diamond’s outline when viewed face up. The most popular diamond shape is round. But there are other shapes—known as fancy shapes—which include the marquise, pear, oval, rectangle, square and heart.

*Tip: Round brilliant diamonds tend to cost the most of all the shapes and cut styles. Choosing a fancy shape can be a good way to save money and choose a unique center stone.

Cutting style refers to how a diamond’s facets are arranged. The brilliant cut is popular due to how it maximizes a diamond’s brightness. This cut style can be seen on a range of shapes, from round to oval to square (princess cut) to marquise. The most popular shape and cut combination by far is the round brilliant cut, which has 57 or 58 facets.

The step cut is another popular cutting style. Steps cuts have long, sleek lines, which gives them an elegant, sophisticated gleam. A popular step cut is the emerald cut—a square or rectangular shape with by concentric rows of parallel facets and beveled corners. In contrast, a radiant cut diamond also has a square or rectangular shape but is cut in the brilliant style.

*Tip: Step cuts tend to show their color and clarity more, while brilliant cuts are better at hiding color and inclusions. If you are purchasing a step cut, considering going up in color and clarity.

Emerald cut diamonds are known for their elegant, gleaming hall-of-mirrors effect rather than brilliance. Courtesy: Alrosa

3. Look at diamonds under different lighting

Daylight, fluorescent light, spot lighting – a diamond looks very different under various lighting conditions. Many jewelers use white spotlighting, which brings out a diamond’s brilliance and fire and will make most diamonds look dazzling. Most day-to-day situations do not consist of such dramatic lighting, however. Be sure to see how your diamond performs under average lighting conditions, such as outdoors in light or shadow or under the diffused, fluorescent light of an office workplace or the warm, diffused lighting common in most homes.

Note that fluorescent lighting brings out a diamond’s brightness, while incandescent lighting brings out a diamond’s fire.

Mixed fluorescent and incandescent lighting is ideal for showing both a diamond’s brilliance and fire. Courtesy: Alrosa

4. Pick a metal for the band

Popular jewelry metals include yellow gold, rose gold, white gold and platinum. Gold and platinum have different characteristics. Their colors can also change the appearance of a piece of jewelry and set off the color of a ring’s gemstones differently.

Metal Types:
Yellow gold is a classic. It has been used in jewelry for thousands of years. It enchants because of its color, rarity and luster (the appearance of a material’s surface in reflected light). Pure gold is soft, so it is typically alloyed with other metals. Karat is the term used to state gold’s fineness, which is based on 24 parts. Gold that is 75% pure—18K gold—is 18 parts gold and six parts of other metals to create an alloy. The most popular fineness in the U.S.—14K gold—is 14 parts gold and 10 parts of other metals.

*Tip: Metals with a higher amount of gold will have richer color, be heavier, softer (slightly more prone to dents and scratches) and more costly.

Rose gold has been a popular choice for many years. It was often used in engagement rings during the Retro era (1935 to the 1950s). It is usually made by alloying gold with copper and silver, which is what gives it its warm, pinkish tone. Companies closely guard their special blends.

Moval Collection by Rahaminov Diamonds. Ring in 18K rose gold with a total of 5.31 carats of diamonds.

White gold is made by alloying pure gold with white metals such as nickel or palladium among others. It is a beautiful and durable choice for engagement rings. White gold is usually plated with rhodium, a platinum group metal, to give it a whiter finish. This can wear away over time. White gold jewelry typically requires replating, or the slightly yellowish color of the white gold underneath may start to show through. This is easy and relatively inexpensive to do, however; simply ask your local jeweler for this service.

Platinum is a slightly grayish white metal that is extremely durable and corrosion resistant. Because platinum is soft in its pure state, it is typically alloyed with other platinum group metals such as iridium or ruthenium. Courtesy: Rahaminov

According to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, only jewelry containing at least 95% platinum (5% alloys) can be marked “Platinum;” other platinum alloys are marked according to the Federal Trade Commission Guidelines. Platinum is generally more expensive than gold, but it is also hypoallergenic and more durable.

How Metal Color Affects Gemstone Color

White gold and platinum are good choices for diamonds graded in the colorless to near-colorless ranges–D through J on the GIA color scale—as they highlight the diamond’s colorlessness.

The color of the metal reflects throughout the diamond. Setting a colorless diamond in yellow prongs can cause it to look more yellowish in appearance. Gold and rose gold settings tend to benefit diamonds with lower color grades or colored diamonds or colored stones as they can help enhance the color of the gemstones. If you have a diamond with a distinctively yellow or brownish tint, a white gold or platinum setting might conversely emphasize the color of the stone due to contrast.

If you love the color of yellow gold or rose gold, use white gold or platinum prongs or bezels to set the diamonds and pair with yellow gold or rose gold bands. This way, the diamonds will appear more colorless while you get the style that you want.

The diamonds in this ring are set in platinum to showcase their colorlessness. Rose gold bands are woven throughout for contrast. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

5. Choose the setting

In jewelry, diamonds are held in place by settings. The setting has two jobs: to hold the diamond in place and to protect it from damage. Different settings offer different degrees of protection.

Here are two popular types of settings:

Prong: A diamond is held in place with four to six prongs (narrow metal supports). The prongs can be rounded on top for a classic look or sharp (claw prongs) for an edgy, modern appearance. Six prongs can give a round brilliant diamond a more rounded look; it also holds the diamond securely. Four prongs can give a round diamond a slightly more square look, and they cover up slightly less of a diamond’s area. There are many variations to the prong setting and it can be used in a number of rings styles, such as solitaire, three-stone and more.

The six-prong setting in this solitaire engagement ring provides extra security for the diamond. Courtesy: JK & Co Jewelers

Bezel: The bezel setting is one of the most protective styles. For this style, a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered all around the diamond to hold it in place. This means that the diamond cannot be viewed from the side, but it also means that there are no prongs that can snag on gloves (helpful for nurses) and that any corners are well-protected. It is an excellent choice for diamonds with sharp points that are more likely to chip, such as princess cut and marquise cut diamonds.

This ring has a bezel set princess cut diamond, surrounded by a diamond halo with latticework and millgraining.

6. Consider side stones

Side stones are a dazzling way to dress up an engagement ring and make it look bigger. Popular choices include making the ring a three-stone ring, adding a halo, including channel, pavé or bead set diamonds along the shank of the ring, and adding colored gems or birthstones. If you want diamond side stones, choose those with 4Cs grades similar to that of the center stone. Having a similar color grade is especially important if you want the stones to match.

Emerald is the May birthstone. These pear-shaped emeralds give this ring a unique look, and the diamond halo adds a luxurious touch. Photo: Ziva

Three-Stone Ring: The three-stone ring, also known as the trinity or trilogy ring, symbolizes friendship, love, and fidelity, or past, present, and future. To add to its romantic connotation, you can incorporate birthstones for a personal touch.

Sapphire is the September birthstone. It symbolizes fidelity and nobility, and the color contrast can really make the center diamond pop. Courtesy: Omi Privé

Halo Setting: Adding melee diamonds around your center stone and on the shank can make the center stone look larger and add more sparkle to your engagement ring. Most rings have a single or double halo but there’s no limit to the number of halos you can add!

This ring features a 0.42 carat marquise-cut pink diamond center stone set in a triple-halo of pink and white round brilliant diamonds. The triple-halo makes the ring look a lot larger and so does the split shoulder band set with melee diamonds. Courtesy: Yael Designs

Cluster Setting: Cluster settings are a great way to maximize sparkle at a relatively affordable price. Smaller diamonds cost less than large ones and can be set in a way to create the illusion of a single larger diamond. Small diamonds also be arranged in unique designs.

This cluster-style ring has a small diamond in the center surrounded by a halo with more small diamonds set in a flower motif. The additional diamonds dramatically increase the size of this ring and add sparkle throughout. Courtesy: Kat Florence Atelier

7. Know Styles and Trends

What style of ring are you looking for—vintage, modern, timeless, Bohemian, romantic? Know your time periods and motifs or add personalized touches for a stand-out ring.

This Belle Époque ring from the early 1900s features a 2.02 carat D Internally Flawless diamond surrounded by old European-cut diamonds set in platinum accented with millgraining. Courtesy: Lang Antiques

Vintage and Modern Vintage: Vintage styles are making a comeback, or perhaps they’ve simply never gone out of style! For an Edwardian style engagement ring, go for vintage motifs such as scrollwork, millgraining, and engraving. Many setting styles are rich with meaning. The toi et moi ring, French for “you and me,” has been popular for centuries. It features a ring with two gemstones representing the couple coming together. This motif was made famous by Napoleon who gifted his future-empress Josephine with a sapphire and diamond toi et moi ring.

Napoleon Bonaparte gave this diamond and sapphire toi et moi engagement ring to Josephine de Beauharnais in 1796. Photo: PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP/Getty Images

This modern toi et moi ring features a 4.06 carat pear-shaped Fancy brownish yellow diamond and a 3.02 carat pear-shaped colorless diamond. Notice that the yellow diamond is set in yellow gold while the colorless diamonds are set in white gold. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

If you’re looking for period jewelry, consider Art Deco style engagement rings and Art Nouveau style engagement rings. Also consider diamonds with older cut styles such as the rose cut or the Old Mine cut.

This ring features three rose cut diamonds and sapphire melee. Rose cut diamonds give rings a mellow, vintage look. Courtesy: Shelly Purdy Studio

Heart Rings: Heart motifs have been popular since medieval times and have never gone out of style since. Not only do they symbolize love, heart shaped diamonds are typically more affordable than round brilliants. It is a unique option that will definitely make a ring stand out.

This ring features a heart-shaped yellow diamond with a yellow diamond halo and a split shoulder shank. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com.

Bohemian Rings: Bohemian style rings play with unexpected gemstone shapes, setting styles and silhouettes, such as geometric diamond cuts, black diamonds, and rings with open shapes. Some are edgy; others have a more romantic vibe.

This rose gold ring has a chevron-shaped band above a 1.25 carat pear-shaped diamond. The pear diamond and chevron gives this ring a vintage feel. The claw prongs and suspended look are distinctly modern. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

Stacked Engagement and Wedding Rings: Will your diamond engagement ring be worn alongside a wedding ring? Make sure that their silhouettes match and that the two rings fit together. A popular trend now is stacking multiple rings together with the engagement ring to complement it in design.

This custom stacked engagement ring consists of diamonds surrounded by opals, aquamarines and sapphires. Courtesy: Maggi Simpkins Designs

Custom Rings: Personalization makes rings feel unique and memorable. Consider a custom engagement ring for a one-of-a-kind ring that celebrates the special moments in your relationship.

8. Measure ring size

Once you’ve picked out a diamond and chosen a style for the ring, the next step is to measure the wearer’s ring size. The best way to do this is with a ring sizer, which is a series of plastic or metal rings in different sizes that you try on. Your jeweler will have a ring sizer and can help you find the perfect fit. If you want the ring-making process to be a surprise, try guessing ring size by borrowing a ring your fiancée or fiancé already owns. Trace the inner circle on a piece of paper. Or slide it down one of your own fingers and draw a line where it stops. A jeweler can help you to estimate the approximate ring size. Note that ring size varies from finger to finger, so using this method will only give you an approximation.

The good news is that most rings can easily be resized up or down by a size or two. Resizing more than that may be more difficult depending on the style of the ring. Solitaire rings are easy to resize, while rings with pavé or bead-set diamonds or other details on the band will require more work.

Choosing a knowledgeable, accredited jeweler will ease your decision-making process. Photo: andresr/E+/Getty Images.

9. Pick a reputable jeweler

Since an engagement ring is a significant investment, you’ll want to buy it from a jeweler you can trust. Your jeweler should be armed with expert training, be open to questions and be able to explain how to buy a diamond in clear, simple language. Tip – start by looking for a jeweler who has earned a credential from a highly recognized and internationally accredited program, such as the GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG) or Applied Jewelry Professional (AJP) diploma programs. As your personal diamond-buying guide, an educated jeweler will not only explain the 4Cs of Diamond Quality, but will also be able to demonstrate the differences between apparently similar diamonds. They will encourage you to compare a number of diamonds that fall within your budget. The GIA Retailer Look Up can help you find local jewelers who carry GIA-graded diamonds or have GIA-trained staff.

The GIA Retailer Lookup is a quick, easy way to find local jewelers who carry GIA-graded diamonds or have GIA-trained staff.

10. Insist on a diamond grading report

A diamond grading report from an independent, scientific laboratory such as GIA is more than a document containing important information. Purchasing a diamond with a GIA report ensures that you know the identity and quality of your diamond. It tells you whether your diamond is natural and whether it has received any treatments. GIA Diamond Grading Reports are also used by appraisers to determine a diamond’s value if you want to insure your diamond engagement ring.

At GIA, we know diamonds. We created the 4Cs of diamond quality and the GIA International Diamond Grading System™ used worldwide for grading diamonds. Top museums and auction houses trust us to evaluate their finest treasures, and our reports are recognized internationally. We apply the same passion and precision we use in grading these world-famous diamonds to grading every diamond—including yours. Our expertise is reflected in a variety of diamond reports, ranging from the GIA Diamond Dossier to the GIA Diamond Origin Report. Learn what each report can tell you about your diamond and insist on one when you are ready to make your purchase.

A GIA Diamond Grading Report let you know the identity and quality of what you are buying.

Propose Now, Shop Later: The Placeholder Ring

July 9, 2018

Ready to propose but not ready to buy an engagement ring? A placeholder ring is a great stand-in while you work out the thousand-and-one details that go into buying your forever engagement ring. Here’s what to consider: (more…)

Engagement Ring Styles to Flatter Her Hand and Finger

June 20, 2017

There are so many flattering engagement ring styles to choose from. How can you be sure that what looks great in the display case will also look great on her finger? Just follow these simple tips.

In this blog, we cover:
Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Shorter Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Larger Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Petite Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Long, Slender Fingers
Engagement Ring Styles for Any Type of Finger

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Shorter Fingers

Some brides seek a look that makes their shorter fingers appear longer. Others prefer a ring that harmonizes with them. By virtue of their shape, marquise, oval, rectangular and pear shaped diamonds are good engagement ring styles for a longer look. These elongated diamond shapes have a “north-south axis” that can accentuate the length of the finger.

Or your bride-to-be might like a round brilliant or princess cut center stone with small side stones, set in a narrow band. Such a ring would flatter her finger without drawing undue attention to its length.

Regardless of the diamond chosen, a simple design is usually a better option for short fingers. An engagement ring with a complicated design likely requires a larger canvas and can overwhelm the finger.

Undeniably elegant, this 1.40 carat (ct) pear shape diamond can make her finger appear longer. Two tapered baguettes provide contrast to the center stone. The final creation is simple and stylish. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Larger Fingers

Women with larger fingers enjoy a variety of options. They have the canvas to wear a larger stone, perhaps a large sapphire, ruby or tourmaline with diamond side stones. Choose a wide stone over a narrow one, to deemphasize the width of the finger. Cluster-set diamond engagement ring styles could also make a bold statement. Look into elaborate settings, with geometric designs or intricately carved gold. She can handle them with style!

A medium to wide band looks best on a larger finger, but make sure it is comfortable and does not look tight on the finger. Just as a dress that is too tight can make the wearer look heavier, so a ring that is too tight can accentuate the width of the finger.

Some shanks (the part of a ring that fits around the finger) might be constricting on fingers that are larger, and make ordinary movements uncomfortable. One option to get the wider band effect is to choose a setting that combines several thinner bands. This makes for a distinctive engagement ring style without drawing undue attention to the size of the finger.

A prong setting, especially one that raises the diamond off the band, is another good option for larger fingers. This engagement ring style can create the illusion of depth, which makes the finger appear narrower.

1.25 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with prong setting.

This ring featuring a 1.25 ct round brilliant cut diamond would look good on a larger finger. The prong setting raises the diamond above the finger, making it look more slender. Courtesy: Avigdor Jewelry

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Petite Fingers

Petite fingers often appear dainty and refined. So they are flattered by similar engagement ring styles. Small rings tend to look better on petite fingers. A big ring or gem is likely to overwhelm the hand and make the finger appear even smaller.

Some diamond cuts that work well on petite fingers are round brilliant, princess cut and oval. They are all good choices for engagement ring styles for smaller hands. Or consider a heart shape for a diamond that suits both the occasion and the delicacy of the finger.

Engagement ring styles with a simple design look best on petite fingers. A more complicated design is likely to be too distracting. Putting such a ring on a petite finger might make the hand look smaller.

Round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with platinum braided double shank.

A simple design. A thin, braided double shank. A round brilliant cut diamond. This engagement ring has all the ingredients to dazzle on a petite finger. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Long, Slender Fingers

Long, slender fingers have the most options for engagement ring styles because they can handle a variety of gems and settings. Still, as with all the finger types discussed thus far, proportion is important.

Larger diamonds and colored gems are good engagement ring styles for long fingers, which have the necessary surface area to display bigger stones. Likewise, long fingers can elongate stones like a marquise or emerald cut. A wide band can also provide a nice complement to the length of the finger.

2.01 ct emerald cut diamond engagement ring with tapered baguette accent stones

If a larger, elongated diamond flatters a slender finger, then this 2.01 ct emerald cut diamond would be a stunning choice. Another 0.25 carats of tapered baguettes accent the center stone. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3 ct ruby ring flanked by two tapered baguette diamonds.

A ruby demands to be noticed, and is a lovely engagement ring style for someone with a long, slender finger. This 3 ct oval ruby has an enchantingly rich color and is flanked by two tapered baguettes. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Long, slender fingers are also ideal candidates for stackable rings, bands that can be added to the original wedding and engagement rings to celebrate an anniversary or other special occasion. The longer the finger, the more bands you can add. It’s also a great way to update the look of the original jewel through the years.

Collection of stackable rings featuring melee diamonds.

An engagement ring, a wedding band, an anniversary band and one more to mark a special occasion – this collection of stackable rings would look elegant on a long, slender finger. The generous use of melee diamonds adds sparkle to these rings. Courtesy: Sandra Biachi

Flattering Engagement Ring Styles for Any Type of Finger

Some engagement ring styles are suitable for almost any length and shape of finger. Round brilliant and princess cut diamonds are classic choices for engagement ring center stones. They flatter no matter what the finger shape is. For a distinctive look, combine them with side stones that add to the sparkle of the ring.

1.28 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with tapered baguettes.

This 1.28 ct round brilliant cut diamond is a flattering choice for almost any finger. The tapered baguettes draw attention to the lovely center stone. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

A three-stone engagement ring is another trending engagement ring style. The design is balanced, contemporary and works well – no matter what the size of the hand or finger is.

If it won’t spoil the surprise, have your loved one try on various diamonds and settings to see how they look. See for yourself what engagement ring styles works best on that very special finger.

Keep in mind, too, that the ring will be worn with a wedding band, which will affect the overall look.

Three-stone diamond engagement ring totaling 15.00 carats.

For yesterday, today and tomorrow – that is the symbolism of a three-stone diamond engagement ring. This stunner has a total weight of 15.00 carats. Courtesy: Rahaminov

Now that you know some engagement ring styles to adorn any shaped finger, here are some ways to make your diamond look bigger.

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog