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June Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Pearls

June 6, 2017

Coveted for millennia, the June birthstone still reigns supreme as the queen of modern fashion. Elegant, stylish and organic, pearls come in a rainbow of colors and a range of shapes. Our pearl primer will help you choose beautiful ones.

In this post, we cover:
What Is a Pearl?
Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Cultured Pearls
Pearl History and Lore
Where Pearls Come From
Pearl Qualities to Look For
Pearl Care and Cleaning

Faceted pearls are not your traditional cultured pearls. These avant-garde beauties can have 200+ facets on their surface. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Victor Tuzlukov

June Birthstone: What Is a Pearl?

A pearl is an organic gem that grows inside saltwater and freshwater mollusks. These soft-bodied animals possess one (univalve) or two (bivalve) shells. Mollusks are invertebrates, meaning they lack a spine or vertebrae.

Gemologists divide the June birthstone into two categories:

Natural Pearls: Pearls form without human intervention. When an irritant enters a mollusk, the mollusk secretes a mixture of calcium carbonate and conchiolin (called nacre). Like a protective shell, the nacre covers the irritant. Although used for adornment for thousands of years, today natural pearls are extremely rare and make up only a small fraction of total pearl sales.

Edwardian natural pearl necklace with alternating light and dark pearls

Natural pearls are the focal point in this necklace from the Edwardian era. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Cultured Pearls: These are a product of human intervention. Technicians implant a piece of mantle tissue alone (common for freshwater cultured pearls) or with a mother-of-pearl shell bead (all saltwater) into a host mollusk. The mollusk covers the irritant with nacre, just like a natural pearl. Cultured pearls are raised in pearl farms – saltwater or freshwater operations where the mollusks are cleaned, protected from predators and eventually harvested. Cultured pearls account for the vast majority of pearl sales.

Cultured Pearls: Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater

Scientists estimate there are more than 100,000 different species of mollusks in the world’s waters. However, only a few dozen of these species produce the June birthstone and only about half of them are used to produce cultured pearls. Cultured pearls are classified by the species of mollusks that produce them.

Akoya cultured pearls have an undeniable elegance. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Akoya Cultured Pearls: The saltwater Pinctada fucata oyster produces white and cream-colored cultured pearls, generally between 2 and 11 mm in diameter, with the average being 6 to 8 mm. Akoya cultured pearls are often perfectly round and have a high luster (the light reflected from or near the pearl’s surface). Most akoya cultured pearls are commercially produced in Japan and China.

A necklace showing the many colors of Tahitian cultured pearls

The many different colors of Tahitian cultured pearls are on display in this exceptional necklace, which features 27 cultured pearls that range from 13 to 19 mm. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: A Private Collector and Mona Lee Nesseth, Custom Estate Jewels

Tahitian Cultured Pearls: Famous for their exotic, almost luminescent colors, these are the product of the saltwater Pinctada margaritifera oyster, which is native to the islands of French Polynesia. The mollusk produces pearls in bodycolors sometimes described in the trade with names like aubergine (dark grayish purple), pistachio (yellowish green to greenish yellow), or peacock (dark green-gray to blue-gray, with pink to purple overtones). Tahitian cultured pearls generally range from 9 to 14 mm in diameter, most commonly 9 to 11 mm.

Semi-round South Sea cultured pearl necklace with blue sapphire accents

This necklace of semi-round South Sea cultured pearls with blue sapphire accents makes a breathtaking statement. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Atelier Marisa

South Sea Cultured Pearls: The Pinctada maxima oyster is the largest of all saltwater cultured pearl oysters, and it can produce pearls from 8 to 20 mm in diameter; the average is 13 mm. There are two types of Pinctada maxima oysters: silver-lipped and gold-lipped. The silver-lipped oyster produces pearls that are mostly white to silver, sometimes with pink, blue or green overtones. The gold-lipped oyster produces mostly yellow to orangy yellow pearls, called “gold” or “golden” in the trade.

A handful of freshwater cultured pearls in many colors

Pearls come in many colors, like these freshwater cultured pearls from China. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Freshwater Cultured Pearls: From the mussel Hyriopsis cumingii or a hybrid, these pearls are produced primarily in the lakes, ponds and rivers of China. They come in many shapes, sizes (up to about 20 mm) and natural colors, including white, orange, lavender and purple. They are also dyed in a wide array of colors.

Gemologists love the June birthstone because of its luster – the reflection of light off its surface, and from concentric layers of nacre, like light bouncing off a convex mirror. Pearl’s texture also fascinates: Natural and cultured pearls have a slightly rough feeling when rubbed against your teeth, while imitation pearls are smooth. However, gemologists use X-rays to examine a pearl’s inner structure, which allows them to conclusively separate natural from cultured pearls.

June Birthstone: Pearl History and Lore

The origin of pearls fascinated our forebearers. Ancients from the Middle East believed that pearls were teardrops fallen from heaven. The Chinese fancied that the June birthstone came from the brain of a dragon. Christopher Columbus and his contemporaries thought that mollusks formed pearls from dew drops.

Pearls have long been associated with purity, humility and innocence. So it may be said that the June birthstone meaning is “sweet simplicity.” As such, pearls were traditionally given as a wedding gift.

The June birthstone was also thought to have beneficial properties. In the ancient Sanskrit text, the Atharvaveda, pearls were said to bestow long life and prosperity. In Asia, pearls were believed to help alleviate indigestion and hemorrhages. Arab physicians in the 1820s maintained that pearl powder improved eyesight, quieted nervous tremors and eased depression.

One of the most famous natural pearls is the 50.56 carat (ct) La Peregrina. About the size of a pigeon’s egg, the pearl was discovered in the 1500s in the Gulf of Panama. It became a prized possession of European royalty. Richard Burton eventually gifted it to Elizabeth Taylor in 1969; Christie’s New York auctioned it in 2011 for $11.8 million.

A two-strand necklace with 50.56 ct natural pearl pendant, accented with 56 saltwater natural pearls, four cultured pearls, rubies and diamonds

Literally a royal gem, Elizabeth Taylor’s 50.56 ct La Peregrina pearl was owned by eight Spanish kings, from Philip II (1582-1598) to Carlos IV (1778-1808). Cartier set the pearl as part of the pendant in this two-strand necklace that has 56 saltwater natural pearls, four cultured pearls, rubies and diamonds. Courtesy: Christie’s

June Birthstone: Where Pearls Come From

You’ll have to set sail for pristine waters if you want to find the June birthstone. Pearl-bearing mollusks fail to thrive in polluted waters, so pearl farms are usually located far from civilization – and often in breathtaking settings.

Saltwater pearls are grown in many areas around the world. Akoya cultured pearl farms are primarily found in Japan and China, especially along the southern coasts of Guangdong and Guangxi provinces. South Sea cultured pearls are farmed from the northern coast of Australia through Indonesia to the southern coast of Southeast Asia, with large operations in the Philippines as well. The Gambier Islands and the Tuamotu Archipelago, both part of French Polynesia, are two locales where the rich black Tahitian pearls are cultured.

An akoya cultured pearl farm in Ago Bay, Japan

Ago Bay, Japan is one of the most important sites for akoya cultured pearl farms. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

Freshwater cultured pearls are primarily grown in China, within a 400 mile (644 km) radius of Shanghai.

The breeding waters of a cultured pearl farm in French Polynesia look like a piece of paradise. Photo: Amanda Luke/GIA

Natural pearls have been found in the Arabian Gulf (Persian Gulf) for at least 5,000 years, while divers have been recovering the June birthstone from the Red Sea since 300 BCE. The Strait of Mannar has been providing pearls since 2000 BCE. Starting in the 16th century, during Spanish colonial rule, large quantities of pearls were recovered from the waters off Mexico, Central America and what is now Venezuela. Only small quantities of pearls are found in any of these areas today.

June Birthstone: Pearl Qualities to Look For

As you’re shopping for pearls and comparing quality and prices, keep in mind the seven factors gemologists use to evaluate and describe the quality of the June birthstone. Known as the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors^TM, they are:

Size: Pearl measurements are stated in millimeters, rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm. All things being equal, the larger the pearl, the greater its value.
Shape: GIA categorizes pearls as one of seven shapes:
- Round
- Near-round (almost round, with minor variations)
- Oval
- Button (symmetrical, circular and flattened)
- Drop (symmetrical, rounded or pear shaped)
- Semi-baroque (not quite symmetrical; an off-round)
- Baroque (has no apparent symmetry and is noticeably irregular)
Color: Pearl color has three components:
- Bodycolor – The dominant, overall color of the pearl
- Overtone – A translucent color that appears to layer over a large area of the pearl’s surface
- Orient – More than one translucent color over the bodycolor, or surface iridescence
Luster: The intensity and sharpness of the light reflected from a pearl’s surface. There are five categories of luster: excellent, very good, good, fair and poor.
Surface: The nature and number of blemishes or irregularities on the pearl. As products of nature, few pearls are completely blemish free. Pearl surface is described as clean, lightly spotted, moderately spotted, or heavily spotted.
Nacre Quality: The thickness and regularity of the nacre. For nacre quality to be acceptable on a bead-nucleated cultured pearl, no evidence of the bead should be visible and there should be no chalkiness.
Matching: This factor applies when evaluating a strand of pearls or a jewelry item with two or more pearls. Excellent matching requires a uniform appearance across all the pearls, with the drill hole on center.

You should also know that cultured pearls routinely undergo treatment to improve their appearance. Some may be color enhanced by heating, dyeing, irradiation and coating. Other treatments include:

Bleaching – To whiten them and create a uniform appearance
Tinting – The use of a red dye to turn akoya cultured pearls pink (also called pinking)
Buffing – Tumbling pearls in a canister (or similar device) to remove surface imperfections

Diamond and Tahitian cultured pearl cluster earrings

Take special care when cleaning pearl jewelry like these diamond and Tahitian cultured pearl earrings. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Mastoloni, New York

June Birthstone: Pearl Care and Cleaning

Pearls are 2.5 to 3.0 on the Mohs Scale of hardness, so they are a comparatively soft gem and require special care. Store them separately from other gemstones and metal jewelry to prevent scratching. Never store pearls in a plastic bag — plastic can emit a chemical that will damage their surface. Always apply perfume, hair products and cosmetics before putting on your pearl jewelry. The best way to clean your June birthstone: Use a soft, damp cloth, ideally after each time they are worn.

Read more tips on how to care for pearl jewelry to keep your watery treasures beautiful.

June is a month for celebrations, be it weddings, anniversaries, graduations or birthdays. And what better way to celebrate than with the June birthstone. From a classic strand of akoya cultured pearls to a single faceted Tahitian cultured pearl, there’s a look for every taste and budget.

Pearls are trending. Five Easy Pieces shows how to wear them with style.

The Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — A Classic Shape

May 30, 2017

The cushion cut engagement ring is surging in popularity. This distinctive pillow-shaped diamond is the modern heir to the historic old mine cut diamond. Looking for an engagement ring with a vintage look and classic style? Get inspired!

A cushion cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by an arrangement of small diamonds

The intricate arrangement of small diamonds, called melee diamonds, surrounding this cushion cut diamond gives this ring an aristocratic air. Courtesy: Tacori

Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — What to Look For

Cushion cut diamonds — both antique and modern — have curved sides and rounded corners. Part of the charm of cushion cut diamonds is their variety. Some have elongated, rectangular proportions and others resemble rounded squares. There’s also a great diversity in the arrangement of their facets that affects their appearance. In addition, this style is well suited to fancy-color diamonds.

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank

A 2.11 carat (ct) cushion cut diamond is accented with 32 diamonds in the split shank. Courtesy: Dana Rebecca Designs

Some cushion cut diamonds have all the fire of round brilliant cut diamonds, while others have a more subtle glow. As when choosing any diamond, try on a number of rings to find your favorite. A beautiful cushion cut is symmetrical so the opposing sides should mirror each other.

Cushion Cut Engagement Rings Aren’t Just for Celebrities

An engagement ring featuring a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank

Stately and sophisticated, this engagement ring features a bezel-set 1.00 ct cushion cut diamond, accented by 0.54 carats of diamonds in the shank. Milgrain (the rows of tiny beads that outline certain sections) give the ring a vintage feel. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection

The number of celebrities who choose this distinctive cut for their engagement rings is proof of the cachet of the cushion cut engagement ring. The celebrities who sport them have styles that range from outrageously flashy to quietly refined. Liam Hemsworth gave Miley Cyrus a 19th century 3.5 ct cushion cut set in yellow gold with engraved flowers. Molly Sims’ cushion cut engagement ring features a classic halo setting, and Kim Kardashian’s original 15 ct jewel floats atop a delicately bejeweled band.

Set in a simple mounting, this 3.22 ct Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond is spectacular. Flanking it are two side stones with a total weight of 1.08 carats. Courtesy: Sasha Primak

Hollywood celebrities can offer inspiration when selecting a diamond engagement ring, but let your personal style guide your choice of ring setting. The gently rounded cushion shape suits virtually any sensibility.

The cushion cut engagement ring is timeless. It looks contemporary, but in an antique-style setting it speaks of the romantic past. And its pedigree is impeccable. Could this be a diamond you would wear as your engagement ring?

Are you ready to buy this intriguing diamond cut? It’s pays to learn more about it, including more details about what to look for when selecting the perfect cushion cut diamond.

The Allure of an Oval Diamond

May 23, 2017

An oval diamond has an elongated round shape that evokes an understated elegance, but with a difference. When it is faceted in the brilliant style, its fire can rival that of a round brilliant. So get ready to pick the perfect oval diamond.

In this blog, we cover:
Anatomy of an Oval Diamond
History of the Oval Diamond
Famous Oval Diamonds
What to Look for in an Oval Diamond
Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

Anatomy of an Oval Diamond

An oval diamond is a fancy shape. You can think of it as a round brilliant diamond stretched on its sides, or a rounded version of a cushion shape or cushion brilliant. To pick a beautiful oval diamond, you need to know its parts.

Head or end: The “tips” of the oval.

Shoulder: The curved area reaching from the head/end to the belly.

Belly: The central area where the sides curve out the most.

An illustration showing the anatomy of an oval diamond

Knowing the anatomy of an oval diamond will help you pick one you love. Illustration: GIA

You’ll typically find oval diamonds cut in the brilliant faceting style, which means the diamond has 57 or 58 facets, like a standard round brilliant, giving it similar visual qualities. An oval diamond can have a variety of facet arrangements, but the most common is eight bezel facets on the crown combined with eight main facets on the pavilion.

Line diagram of an oval diamond’s crown and pavilion views.

A common facet arrangement for oval diamonds: eight bezel facets on the crown, pictured in light blue (left); eight main pavilion facets, pictured in dark blue (right). Illustration: GIA

There are compelling reasons why many people love oval diamonds: Because the oval diamond has a larger surface area than a round diamond of equal carat weight, it can appear larger to the eye. The oval shape can make the finger seem longer. And because the shape doesn’t have sharp angles or corners, an oval diamond is less prone to chipping compared to other fancy shapes.

History of the Oval Diamond

The brilliant faceting style was first introduced circa 1700. Brilliant-cut cushion shaped diamonds predominated because cutters tended to follow the outline of the rough crystal. But diamonds were available in a variety of shapes, including oval. At this time, diamonds were not described by their shapes – they were simply called “brilliants.” It isn’t until the late 1800s that we first see mention of oval diamonds in literature.

Modern appeal for the oval diamond began in 1957. The oval diamond enjoyed a resurgence between 1998 and 2001, driven in part by marketing campaigns, and now it’s making a comeback. According to Town & Country magazine, the oval diamond ranked 6th in popularity with American consumers in 2016 (round diamonds were still no. 1).

Famous Oval Diamonds

The 105.60 carat (ct) Koh-i-Noor is probably the most famous oval diamond. It was so valuable that it was said that “whoever owned the Koh-i-Noor ruled the world.” Following centuries in the possession of rulers from Persia and India, the diamond was presented to Britain’s Queen Victoria on July 3, 1850. It is now set in the Queen Mother’s crown, which was fashioned for Queen Elizabeth, wife of George VI (and mother of Elizabeth II), for their 1937 coronation. You can see it in the Tower of London with the other Crown Jewels.

The 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff (long known as the Wittelsbach Blue) is another famous oval diamond with a royal provenance. The rough probably came from India’s famed Golconda District. In about 1666, it was given as part of a dowry for the marriage of Infanta Margarita Teresa of Spain into the House of Hapsburg. In 1722, it was used again as part of a dowry, this time for a marriage into the House of Wittelsbach. In 1931, the Wittelsbach Blue vanished from sight and was hidden for 30 years, until it was rediscovered in 1961. After it was sold at auction for $24.3 million in December 2008 to London Jeweler Lawrence Graff, the original 35.56 ct cushion modified brilliant diamond was recut to a 31.06 ct oval to make it a Fancy Deep blue, Internally Flawless gem, and was renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff.

Pictured here is the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, recut from the historic Wittelsbach Blue. The recut diamond was graded Fancy Deep blue according to GIA’s colored diamond color grading system. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Another oval diamond made international news in April 2017, when Hong Kong jeweler Chow Tai Fook bought a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond for $71.2 million. Known to many as the Pink Star or Steinmetz Pink, it became the most expensive diamond ever sold at auction. The retailer renamed it the CTF Pink Star. The diamond was mined in Botswana in 1999. It took cutters two years to turn the 132.50 ct rough into its final shape.

The Pink Star, a 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink oval diamond

The Pink Star, now called the CTF Pink Star, smashed auction records when it sold for $71.2 million in April 2017. The 59.60 ct Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid pink diamond is a stunning example of an oval shaped diamond. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

What to Look for in an Oval Diamond

Turn to the 4Cs of diamond quality when shopping for an oval diamond. GIA uses the same criteria for determining carat weight, color and clarity for oval diamonds as it does for round brilliants. This can help you narrow your search.

Length-to-Width Ratio

Keep proportion in mind when looking at oval diamonds. Consumers and trade professionals tend to prefer a longer oval shape, according to a comprehensive survey of shape preferences GIA conducted in 2009. The survey showed that the most popular length-to-width ratio for ovals was 1.7:1. However, it is not practical to cut such long oval diamonds from the original rough, so you’ll rarely find one. More typical are ovals with ratios ranging from 1.3:1 to 1.4:1.

This 1.06 ct oval diamond has a 1.71:1 length-to-width ratio. It is rare to find oval diamonds this long. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 3.01 ct oval diamond with a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio

This 3.01 ct oval diamond has a 1.26:1 length-to-width ratio, which is a little shorter than most oval diamonds. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

A 2.28 ct oval diamond with a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio

This 2.28 ct oval diamond has a 1.48:1 length-to-width ratio. Even this length is a little hard to find. Photo: Kate Waterman/GIA

Symmetry

Symmetry is important in creating the beauty of an oval diamond. To determine if an oval diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line down the center. The shape and faceting of the two halves should mirror each other. Then draw an imaginary line across the middle of the oval. Again, the shape and faceting of the two halves should be identical.

Symmetry is based on how closely the shape and facets on either side of these imaginary center lines mirror each other. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval diamond surrounded by two halos of melee diamonds

The allure of an oval diamond is easy to see in this 1.58 ct Fancy yellow oval. The two halos surrounding it contain D-to-F color melee diamonds totaling 1.20 carats. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

Shape Appeal

Look for an oval diamond with a graceful outline and harmoniously proportioned parts. To find one that’s attractive to you, it pays to compare several different oval diamonds. Here are some common shape variations:

This oval cut has flat shoulders, which many in GIA’s survey considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

This oval cut has bulging shoulders – an aspect that many of those surveyed also considered less graceful. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

This oval cut has no shoulder bulge. Its overall symmetry and well-proportioned shape contribute to its visual appeal. Image: Al Gilbertson/GIA

Girdle Thickness

The girdle is the intersection of the crown and pavilion. It defines the perimeter of the diamond and functions as its setting edge. Girdle thickness is judged the same way in fancy shapes as in rounds. Be sure to look at the diamond’s proportion diagram in its GIA Diamond Grading Report. The diagram will show the stone’s average girdle thickness percentage and indicate if the girdle is too thick or too thin. An overly thick girdle can contribute to a heavier diamond than its face-up appearance warrants, and a thin girdle can increase the risk of damage such as chipping.

Bow-tie Effect

Expect to see a bow tie. A “bow tie” in diamond parlance is a dark bow-shaped pattern across the table of the diamond.

What causes a bow tie? A diamond’s facets act like a series of mirrors that gather light from around you and return it to your eye. As you look at the stone, the dark contrast you see is a reflection of your head and shoulders blocking light from entering the diamond. The closer your face is to the diamond, the more pronounced the bow tie will be.

If the diamond is cut well, the bow tie will be minimal, but once you are in front of the diamond, there will always be some measure of a bow tie.

An illustration of an oval diamond showing the bow-tie effect

The grayed-out area across the table in this illustration is where you’ll likely see the bow-tie effect. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Oval Diamond Engagement Ring Settings

You’ll have lots of choices for engagement ring settings for oval diamonds. And each setting can create a dramatically different look. Here are some options.

Halo Setting

A halo of smaller diamonds around the oval center stone is a lovely addition. It accentuates the shape and makes the diamond appear larger. Choosing a different color of metal or side stones can create an arresting look.

A 10.92 ct oval diamond engagement ring, accented with a halo of Fancy pink melee diamonds

A mesmerizing sight, this oval diamond engagement ring features a 10.92 ct center stone, accented with a halo of fancy pink melee diamonds. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Prong Setting

Prong settings are good choices for an oval diamond. Not only do they protect the diamond from loss, but they can also add height, raising the diamond from the band and drawing the eye to the gem.

An oval diamond makes a dramatic statement in a prong setting. A halo of smaller diamonds adds even more panache. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting, which completely encloses the perimeter of the diamond in metal, is a great choice if you lead an active life. It’s an effective way to protect the diamond and also enhances the beauty of the oval shape.

A 0.84 ct oval shape diamond sits in a platinum bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Side Stones

An oval diamond goes well with virtually any kind of side stone. Half-moon diamonds echo its shape, so they can be an attractive choice. Baguettes and tapered baguettes offer an opportunity to create contrast, as do colored gems. If you want your diamond side stones to match the center oval, choose side stones that are within one or two color grades of the larger diamond so they don’t compete with its beauty.

Contrasting colors and shapes bring life to this engagement ring. It features a 0.90 ct oval center stone, flanked by two round sapphires and round diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Wide Band

Because of its shape, an oval diamond works well with a wider band.

An oval diamond three stone engagement ring

Three oval diamonds look at home in a wide band. It especially suits the 1.57 ct center stone. Courtesy: EraGem.com

An oval diamond is beautiful…classic…and a little different. It’s a wonderful option for an engagement ring.

If you’re looking to create a diamond engagement ring that’s out of the ordinary, there are many more fancy shapes to choose from. A marquise diamond just might be for you.

GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding Carat Weight

May 9, 2017

If you’re shopping for a diamond, carat weight is probably one of the important things you’re considering. It seems like a straightforward measurement, but there is more to it than a simple number. Here’s essential information you need to know.

In this post, we cover:

What Is Carat Weight?
How Does GIA Measure Diamond Carat Weight?
- Carat Size and Rounding Up (or Down)
Why Is Carat Weight Important?
Carat Weight and Shopping Considerations
The Difference between Carats, Karats and Carrots

What Is Carat Weight?

Diamond weight is stated in metric measurements called carats. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams, which is 1/5 of a gram or 0.20 gram. There are 142 carats in an ounce. Carat is also the standard unit of weight for most gemstones.

The modern carat system has its roots in the carob seed, which comes from the locust tree. Because the small seeds are fairly uniform in size and weight, they were a useful standard for determining the weight of a gem. Early gem merchants and jewelers used carob seeds as counterweights in hand-held balance scales.

Carat weight was standardized as 0.20 gram in the early twentieth century. This gave trade professionals a uniform and universally accepted weight standard for diamonds.

Notice that the seeds from the carob pods are nearly identical in size. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA

Carat is abbreviated as “ct” and weights are typically given to two decimal places: 1.00 ct, 0.76 ct, 1.57 ct.

Like the dollar, a carat is made up of 100 parts, called “points” and abbreviated as “pt.” An easy way to remember this is to think of carats as dollars and points as pennies. They’re even written the same way: $1.34 means one dollar and 34 cents, and 1.34 ct means one carat and 34 points.”

A necklace featuring a 25.04 ct pear shape diamond suspends from 64.24 carats of diamonds

If you like big diamonds, you’ll love this necklace. The large pear shape weighs 25.04 ct, and it is suspended from another 64.24 carats of glittering diamonds. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Chatila

How Does GIA Measure Diamond Carat Weight?

When a diamond is submitted to GIA, one of the first steps in the grading process is to determine its weight. To ensure precision, accuracy and consistency, GIA uses an electronic micro-balance scale to weigh each diamond. GIA adheres to strict calibration and maintenance procedures for its devices. These procedures exceed the manufacturer’s recommendations. In addition, the laboratory monitors and controls environmental conditions that might affect the quality of the results, such as room temperature and humidity.

Diamonds being weighed on an electronic mirco-balance scale

Diamonds submitted to GIA are weighed on an extremely sensitive electronic micro-balance scale. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA

The diamond’s dimensions are also measured. An optical measuring device captures the diamond’s measurements (length and width), as well as its proportions and facet angles, which will eventually inform the diamond’s cut grade.

Diamond Carat Weight and Rounding Up (or Down)

While most trade professionals typically weigh diamonds to a thousandth of a carat (three decimal places), GIA weighs diamonds to the fifth decimal place – a hundred thousandths of a carat, to ensure maximum precision and provide an identifying characteristic.

The rounding rules GIA follows are also stricter than normal mathematical rounding rules. As mentioned above, a diamond’s carat weight is conventionally stated to two decimal places (0.71 ct, 1.34 ct). To arrive at this number, GIA rounds up to the next higher hundredth only if there’s a nine in the thousandth place. For example, a diamond that weighs 1.769 ct would be rounded up to 1.77 ct, but one that weighs 1.768 ct would be rounded down to 1.76 ct. Such differences in carat weight might seem small, but they can make a significant difference in price.

Five fancy color diamonds provide an example of relative diamond size

Get a sense of relative diamond size with this photo. From left to right: a yellow princess cut (0.86 ct), a pink round brilliant cut (0.68 ct), a gray-blue round brilliant (0.56 ct), a gray round brilliant (0.30 ct) and a blue-green round brilliant (0.15 ct). Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Once the diamond has been graded, its carat weight and dimensions — as well at its color, clarity and cut grade (if applicable) — are clearly documented on a GIA diamond grading report. Also included is full disclosure of any diamond treatments detected during the process.

A GIA Diamond Grading Report shows a diamond’s weight

The diamond’s weight is prominently stated on a GIA Diamond Grading Report. Photo: GIA

Why Is Carat Weight Important?

All other factors being equal, the price of a diamond increases as its carat weight increases. Since diamonds 1.00 ct or larger are comparatively rare, prices jump dramatically for these gems.

Carat weight also helps you compare prices between diamonds with different weights but the same color, clarity and cut grades, allowing you to compare the per carat price for each stone to see where you’re getting the best value.

Carat Weight and Shopping Considerations

Here are a few concepts related to carat weight that you should be aware of as you’re shopping:

Carat Weight and Gemstone Size – Two Different Things

It’s a common mistake to equate a gem’s carat weight with its physical dimensions. After all, it seems logical that a larger stone will weigh more. This is true if you’re comparing two stones of the same gem material – like a diamond to a diamond, or an aquamarine to an aquamarine.

However, size is a function of the gem material’s specific gravity – the ratio of the weight of a gem to that of an equal volume of water. Materials with different specific gravities (densities) will have different sizes for the same weight (think of an ounce of lead compared to an ounce of feathers). For example, the specific gravity of diamond (3.52; that is, 3.52 times the same volume of water) is lower than that of ruby (4.0), so a one-carat diamond will be larger than a one-carat ruby.

The bigger the diamond, the more bang for your buck?

Not always. When it comes to diamonds, greater carat weight does not guarantee that the diamond will look bigger. For example, a poorly cut diamond may be too deep and have weight hidden below the girdle. You won’t see this weight when the diamond is mounted, and it won’t make the diamond more appealing – but the diamond will weigh more.

An illustration of a diamond showing excessive bulge as seen by gray areas on either side of the outline

Excessive bulge, shown by the gray areas on either side of the outline, adds to a diamond’s weight without contributing to its beauty or perceived size when viewed face-up. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Magic Sizes

As mentioned earlier, for diamonds that are equal in every way, diamond value increases as weight increases. At certain weight boundaries, called “magic sizes,” the price per carat increases significantly. That’s because these boundaries or thresholds coincide with popular weights, and popularity means greater demand and therefore higher prices for these weights. This is especially true at the magic one-carat size.

A graph showing punctuated increases of diamond values as they reach certain weights

Diamonds increase in price at magic sizes like 0.25 ct, 0.50 ct, 0.75 ct and 1.00 ct. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

A quick comparison of two diamonds shows how magic sizes can affect price. If one diamond weighs 0.96 ct and another weighs 1.02 ct, the 6 pt (0.06 ct) difference in size is almost imperceptible. But if both are D-color round brilliants with identical clarity and cut, the difference in cost is significant. The fact that the second diamond is slightly over the “magic” one-carat threshold may cause its price to be as much as 20 percent more.

The 1.07 ct diamond in this Tiffany & Co. ring is a magic size. Courtesy: TrueFacet

Nevertheless, for some people carat weight is symbolic, so they will pay the higher price to reach the magic size.
There is another side to magic sizes – if you think they’re unimportant, you can look for a diamond that weighs slightly less than one of these boundaries and save money.

Carat weight isn’t everything

If you want the largest diamond you can afford, you’ll have to sacrifice clarity, color and/or cut, which may mean sacrificing beauty and sparkle. Choosing a diamond means prioritizing the 4Cs, and then making some compromises. Here is a thoughtful look at determining what’s the most important C for you.

Total Carat Weight

Understanding diamond terminology is essential if you’re going to make a smart purchase decision. “Total carat weight” (abbreviated tcw) is the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds.

An engagement ring set with many small melee diamonds weighing 2.15 tcw will cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring set with a single 2.15 ct diamond. Again, think size/rarity/price.

Cushion cut diamond and platinum engagement ring surrounded by a halo of melee and natural pink diamonds

This Tiffany & Co. engagement ring has a cushion cut diamond, weighing 0.84 ct, surrounded by 0.06 carats of natural pink diamonds and 0.34 carats of melee. The total carat weight is 1.24 tcw. Courtesy: TrueFacet.

If an engagement ring has gems other than diamonds in it, the combined weight of all the stones is called “total gem weight.”

The Difference between Carats, Karats and Carrots

Here’s a last bit of terminology that we need to explain. As you know by now, a carat is a metric unit of measure to describe the weight of a diamond and other gemstones. Karat (abbreviated as K) is the measure of the purity of gold. A karat has 24 parts, so 18K gold would mean that the metal is 18 parts gold and 6 parts of other metals (such as copper, silver and/or zinc). Carrots, well, that’s something rabbits are famous for eating.

A diamond engagement ring is a once-in-a-lifetime purchase that is a symbol of your love. Understanding carats and points can help you with this “weighty” decision.

In addition to carat weight, a GIA grading report contains a wealth of information about your diamond. If you’d like to dig deeper, you’ll be interested in the other articles in this series:

GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding the Diamond Color Grade
GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding the Diamond Clarity Plotting Diagram
GIA Diamond Grading Reports: Understanding Diamond Cut Grades

May Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Emerald

May 2, 2017

With spring in full bloom and summer just around the corner, emerald is the perfect choice for the May birthstone. Kings and queens have prized the sought-after green gem for centuries. Here’s how you can pick a breathtaking one.

In this post, we cover:
Gemological Qualities of Emerald
Emerald History & Lore
Where Emerald Comes From
Emerald Qualities to Look For
Emerald Care & Cleaning

May Birthstone: Gemological Qualities of Emerald

Emerald’s green has been the standard by which other green gemstones have been measured for thousands of years. It is the rich green to bluish green variety of beryl, a mineral species that also includes aquamarine and varieties in other colors.

Trace elements that cause emerald’s color include chromium, vanadium and iron. As a general rule, the higher the chromium or vanadium content, the more intense the green color. The more iron present, the greater the degree of blue. When iron content is relatively high, emerald is a bluer green. When iron content is relatively low, the May birthstone is a purer green.

The difference between an emerald and a less-expensive green beryl is a matter of debate among gem experts. Some in the trade describe the May birthstone as any green beryl colored by chromium. However, gemologists, gemological laboratories and most colored stone dealers, think it is incorrect to call a green beryl an emerald when its color is “too light.” There are differences of opinion even in this group about the definition of “too light.” GIA settles the debate by using lab-graded comparison stones to determine if the green color is sufficiently dark and saturated to be called emerald.

Gemologists love the May birthstone for its inclusions. Emeralds from Colombia can have fascinating characteristic inclusions – called three-phase inclusions – that consist of tiny crystals of rock salt, a liquid and a bubble of gas.

The best emerald crystals are also gorgeous flat-topped green hexagonal columns that can rival the beauty of faceted stones.

Weighing in at 47 carats, this rough emerald crystal from the Muzo mine in Colombia is so beautiful that it may put to rest all debates about color. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Jon Sigerman

May Birthstone: Emerald History & Lore

From Egyptian pharaohs to Inca emperors, emerald has enchanted royalty. Cleopatra was known to have a passion for emerald, and used it in her royal adornments. The legendary Crown of the Andes, fashioned in colonial South America, is one example of how the Spanish revered the May birthstone. According to lore, its largest stone—now called the Atahualpa emerald—was taken from the last Inca emperor, Atahualpa, by conquistador Francisco Pizarro. The modern recovery of the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha shows the length generations of treasure hunters would go to recover its sunken loot.

The word “emerald” comes from smaragdos, ancient Greek for a green gem. Roman author Pliny the Elder, who died in the 79 CE eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, wrote in his encyclopedic Natural History that “nothing greens greener.” He also stated that the May birthstone had therapeutic properties that helped gem cutters: “(they) have no better method of restoring their eyes than by looking at the emerald, its soft, green color comforting and removing their weariness and lassitude.” Science now proves this belief: The color green relieves stress and eye strain.

An emerald and diamond necklace totaling 41.97 carats

An emerald necklace sure to soothe the eye, this beauty has 52 emeralds, with a total weight of 32.86 carats, and 160 diamonds, with a total weight of 9.11 carats. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Ismael Daoud

Emerald was also thought to have magical powers. By placing it under the tongue, one could see into the future. Some believed the May birthstone offered protection against evil spells, cholera and malaria. Others thought it made one an eloquent speaker and exposed lovers who made false promises.

Emerald is traditionally given for the 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries.

The Crown of the Andes is set with a 24 ct emerald center and 442 additional emeralds

The Crown of the Andes, now at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, boasts an impressive 24 ct emerald center stone and 442 additional emeralds set in the golden headpiece. Photo: Dr. E. J. Gübelin/GIA

May Birthstone: Where Emerald Comes From

Colombia has been the source of the finest emeralds for more than 500 years, and they have been the standard by which all others are measured. Three mining sites in Colombia are particularly noteworthy: Muzo, Chivor and Coscuez. Emeralds of slightly different hues are found at each of these sites. Each locality produces a range of colors, but generally speaking, darker tones of pure green emeralds come from Muzo. Emeralds that are lighter in tone and slightly bluish green are associated with Chivor. Slightly yellowish green emeralds are unearthed in Coscuez.

This 38 carat cluster of emerald crystals originated from Colombia’s Muzo Mine. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Ismael Daoud

Chivor, Colombia is the source of this 4.50 ct emerald. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

This 88.4 gram emerald crystal cluster is from Coscuez, Colombia. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Gene Meieran

Emeralds are also found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil. One of the most productive sites for the May birthstone is the sophisticated Belmont Mine. Capoeirana is another important locality, a rugged region worked largely by independent miners and small-scale operations.

An independent miner holds a rough emerald

An independent miner at the Capoeirana mining area holds a rough emerald. Photo: Eric Welch/GIA

The May birthstone can also be found in Africa. Zambia is a major source, and mines in the Ndola Rural Restricted Area are known for producing emeralds that are bluish green and darker in tone. Pakistan and Afghanistan are important producers as well.

The 240 carats of emeralds in this drop necklace come from Zambia. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Sanjay Chordia, BEACAB GEMS INC.

May Birthstone: Emerald Qualities to Look For

Color: The most important quality factor in the May birthstone is color. Emeralds that are bluish green to green, with strong to vivid saturation and medium to medium-dark tone, are the most coveted. Emeralds that are highly transparent are especially valuable.

Clarity: Emeralds typically contain inclusions that are visible to the unaided eye. Because of this, jewelry professionals and some consumers understand and accept the presence of inclusions in emeralds. Eye-clean emeralds are especially valuable because they’re so rare.

Emerald inclusions are often described as looking mossy or garden-like. They’re sometimes called jardin, which is French for “garden.”

In colored stones, transparency and clarity are closely linked. This is especially true for emeralds. Jewelry professionals generally accept some eye-visible inclusions in higher-quality emeralds. But when the quantity or nature of the inclusions has a negative effect on transparency and clarity, they also dramatically reduce value.

Cut: Emerald crystals are difficult to cut. Almost all rough emeralds have significant fractures (sometimes called fissures) and a gem cutter must work to minimize the effect of those fractures on the appearance of the finished stone.

These inherent fissures make emeralds more brittle than other gems. Consequently, they are vulnerable to damage during cutting, polishing and setting–or even from careless daily wear.
The famous rectangular “emerald cut,” with its beveled corners and two, three or four concentric rows of facets, maximizes the shape and weight of the original emerald crystal. It also helps protect against damage because the vulnerable corners are faceted and provide a comparatively safe place for prongs.

Carat Weight: Fashioned emeralds come in a wide range of sizes. There are emeralds in museums and private collections that weigh hundreds of carats. At the other extreme are tiny emeralds that weigh fractions of a carat.

A 3.69 ct emerald ring with six diamond side stones

Take extra caution when caring and cleaning for emerald jewelry like this 3.69 ct emerald ring flanked with six diamond side stones. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Ismael Daoud

May Birthstone: Emerald Care & Cleaning

Emerald is a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness, so it is more susceptible to scratching than a diamond, which ranks 10 on the scale. The May birthstone is often treated to improve its color and clarity. Common treatment methods include:

Dyeing: Paler porous or fractured emeralds are dyed green to enhance their color.
Fracture Filling: Oils, waxes and artificial resins are sometimes used to fill surface-reaching fractures in emeralds. The goal is to reduce the visibility of the fractures and improve the apparent clarity. The volume of filler material present can range from insignificant to major; these substances have varying degrees of stability.

Emerald requires some special care; avoid exposure to heat, changes in air pressure (such as in an airline cabin) and harsh chemicals. Never put an emerald in an ultrasonic cleaner. Filled emeralds can also be damaged by exposure to hot water used for washing dishes.

The May birthstone is perfectly suited to the celebration of life blooming everywhere. Now you can treat yourself – or a loved one – to an emerald that captures the exuberance of the season. Learn more about how to pick a beautiful emerald with our Emerald Buying Guide.

Engagement Ring Settings to Make Your Diamond Look Bigger

April 18, 2017

Engagement ring settings should be both beautiful and practical. A setting defines your ring style, adds drama to the diamond and protects it from loss or damage. The right setting and band can also make your diamond look bigger and even more sparkling.

If you’re looking to create an illusion of size, here are some tips for engagement ring settings that can make your diamond “grow.” But first, let’s start by debunking some dubious recommendations floating around the internet.

What Doesn’t Make a Diamond Look Bigger

Diamond shape and carat weight: While a diamond’s outline – round, rectangular, oval, pear, marquise — can have some influence on the overall perception of diamond size, the shape of a diamond alone does not guarantee the stone will look bigger. The same is true for diamond carat weight. Just because one diamond weighs more than another of the same shape doesn’t mean it will look bigger. Similarly, one diamond might look bigger than another of the same shape and weight, but may be less appealing overall. That’s because there might be many factors at play, especially those related to the quality of the diamond’s cut and how its weight is distributed.

Illustration showing diamond with bulge on either side of the pavilion.

A diamond’s shape – and even its carat weight – won’t guarantee a large-looking gem. Excessive bulge, shown here by the shaded areas on either side of the pavilion, adds to a diamond’s weight without contributing to the stone’s perceived size. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Here are some examples:

A diamond with shallow cut proportions may be physically wider and longer, but it will be far less appealing. That’s because a lot of the light that enters the crown of a shallow diamond might exit through the pavilion, making the diamond look dull and unattractive.
A shallow pavilion depth – less than 38 percent – can create a “fish eye” effect, seen as an unattractive gray ring under the table. (Pavilion depth is measured as the distance from the bottom of the girdle plane to the culet.) As above, the diamond may be physically wider and longer, but the stone will have a dull, flat look.

What’s a crown, pavilion, girdle and culet? Learn more about diamond anatomy.

On marquise, pear and heart shaped diamonds, the sides near the points are called wings. If they’re too flat, they make the stone look too narrow. If they’re too rounded, they make it look short and stubby.

On the left, flat wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking too narrow. On the right, rounded wings contribute to this marquise shaped diamond looking stubby. Photos: Kate Waterman/GIA

White metal band: A common misconception about engagement ring settings is that a white metal band can act like a mirror to reflect and amplify a diamond’s size. The logic seems sound until you consider that a rose gold or yellow gold band could serve as a dramatic counterpoint to the diamond, making it look bigger. So a white metal band is not a foolproof solution.

Diamond ring with 5.31 carats of diamonds in a rose gold setting.

You decide if the 5.31 carats of diamonds in this ring pop because of the rose gold setting. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Colored gemstones: Colored accent stones provide dramatic contrast to a center stone, but do they make the diamond look larger? Not necessarily. One could convincingly argue that a colored stone would compete with a diamond, thus distracting the eye.

Slender prongs: A potentially troublesome myth about engagement ring settings is that the less a prong covers a diamond, the more of the gem that’s shown, so the bigger it will look. While this may be true technically, it is not advisable. Prongs serve an essential function: they hold a diamond securely in place. Skimp on the necessary size and number of prongs, and you risk losing the diamond.

What Does Make a Diamond Look Bigger

Here are some engagement ring settings to consider if you’re looking to boost the appearance of your diamond’s size.

Illusion setting: During the Great Depression of the 1930s, when few could afford large diamonds, jewelers sometimes set a diamond in a head made of a fluted white metal. The shiny metal was made with ripples, so the whole head looked like the diamond it reflected. This setting was so successful in delivering an illusion of size that it’s still used today.

TIP: The purpose of the illusion setting is to make a near-colorless diamond look larger, and white metal is required to achieve this particular effect. If the diamond is yellow in color, then a yellow gold illusion setting is a better choice.
TIP: Diamonds smaller than 0.50 carat (ct) are good candidates for illusion engagement ring settings. You’d probably want to showcase a diamond 0.50 ct or larger on its own, instead of relying on the illusion setting to work its optical magic.

Engagement ring with illusion setting and diamonds with a total weight of 0.12 carats

The total weight of diamonds in this ring is just 0.12 carats, but the illusion setting makes them appear much larger than they really are. Courtesy: EraGem

Toi et Moi engagement ring in an illusion setting featuring two diamonds with a total weight of 1.18 carats.

Here’s an example of a Toi et Moi (“You and Me”) engagement ring in an illusion setting. The total weight of the two diamonds is 1.18 carats, but they look larger because of the illusion setting. Courtesy: TrueFacet

Cluster setting: This engagement ring setting places several small diamonds of similar size next to each other. This technique maximizes sparkle and gives the illusion of a single diamond that is much larger in size (and more costly) than the melee diamonds used to make it.

TIP: Diamonds of the same or similar color grades work best in a cluster setting. Diamond manufacturers know this, and match color grades when producing these kinds of rings. So you won’t have to worry about selecting the many smaller diamonds that will be part of your cluster setting.
TIP: The more metal surrounding a stone, the more it is protected. Cluster settings have lots of metal. So your diamonds will be better safeguarded against damage.

Diamond ring with a cluster setting creates the illusion of three large gems using only 0.29 carats of diamonds.

Three diamonds or 58? You might not be able to tell from a distance. In this ring, the cluster setting creates the illusion of three large gems using only 0.29 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem

Halo setting: When a ring of smaller diamonds is artfully placed around a center stone, the center stone can appear to be the size of the halo.

TIP: Engagement ring manufacturers select the melee that makes the halo, so you won’t have to worry about picking the many small diamonds that will go into the engagement ring setting.
TIP: A diamond center stone weighing 0.50 ct or more works best in this kind of setting because the melee in the halo will enhance it. You probably wouldn’t want to use a smaller diamond, since it would be too close in size to the melee. That combination would probably look like a pavé set ring with one diamond (the center stone) somewhat larger than the rest.
TIP: The prongs on halo diamonds tend to wear out faster. Should you go with this style, be sure to have your ring routinely checked by your jeweler.

Diamond engagement ring with double halo setting surrounding a 1.17 carat cushion cut center stone.

Where does the center stone end and the halo start? Here’s how the trick of the eye works. This double halo set with 0.50 carats of diamonds makes the 1.71 ct cushion cut center stone look even larger. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Pavé setting: To achieve this popular technique, many diamonds 0.20 ct or smaller are set into tapered holes in a metal surface, nestled close to the melee stones next to them. Pavé creates an appearance of uninterrupted diamonds in the band, which can make the center stone look larger.

TIP: Pavé set diamonds in engagement ring settings are typically very secure, as the diamonds are set into metal. However, should a diamond fall out, it is more difficult for a bench jeweler to replace it.
TIP: Avoid engagement ring settings with pavé set diamonds on the bottom of the shank. This area of the ring is exposed to a lot of friction, so the diamonds are more easily lost or damaged.

Diamond engagement ring featuring pavé set diamonds and a 1.00 carat emerald cut center stone.

The pavé set diamonds in this engagement ring glitter like stars in the night sky. The center stone is a 1.00 ct emerald cut diamond. Courtesy: EraGem

Bezel setting: In this setting style, a band of metal surrounds the diamond’s girdle. As a result, the diamond’s circumference may appear to be larger. Bezel engagement ring settings also afford extra protection against accidental bangs and bumps.

TIP: The bezel setting is generally used for round and oval diamonds. It is more difficult to create a bezel setting for other shapes, such as square and marquise diamonds.
TIP: Like rock climbing? Playing lacrosse? Vigorous exercise? The bezel setting protects the center stone, so it is a great choice for active people.
TIP: A bezel setting could deaden the brightness of a poorly cut diamond.

Diamond engagement ring with bezel settings.

This 0.53 ct diamond appears larger because of the bezel setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Invisible setting: For this technique, small diamonds are cut with grooved pavilions and then slipped into a thin wire framework. This eliminates the need for prongs and allows the gems to be set against each other. The result is that the entire diamond is visible, and groups of diamonds can look like one large gem.

TIP: There is a drawback. Should a diamond in an invisible setting be damaged, it is extremely difficult to repair or replace it. So Invisible diamond engagement ring settings are probably not a good idea for physically active individuals.

Yellow gold ring with diamonds in an invisible setting.

An invisible setting can give the appearance of a field of diamonds. Courtesy: Ambar Diamonds

More Tips to Make Your Diamond Look Bigger

Choose a thin ring shank or band: Here’s a way to trick the eye. A thin band can make a diamond look larger. Similarly, a thick band might overshadow the diamond.

Diamond ring with thick white metal band.

Left photo: A thick band nearly overwhelms the 1.68 ct diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co., Inc. Right photo: What a difference a band makes. The main diamond in this ring rightfully takes center stage. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International

Add side stones to your engagement ring setting: This is a great way to add sparkle and size to an engagement ring – and the options are endless. You could add a diamond baguette on each side of the center stone. You could pick colored stones to create contrast. You could use different colored metals around the side stones.

Unlike the melee used for pavé and halo settings, you may have the opportunity to choose the side stones. If you are uncomfortable making the choice, read our advice on choosing engagement ring side stones to get you started. If you have any questions, ask your jeweler for help, he/she will have a trained eye.

And last, but certainly by no means least: keep your diamond clean. While a clean diamond won’t look bigger, per se, it will display that signature sparkle that telegraphs “diamond” across a crowded room – and isn’t that what it’s all about?

Speaking of diamond sparkle, here are some tips and tricks to get the most sparkle out of your diamond engagement ring.

Melee Diamonds: Tiny Diamonds, Big Impact

April 11, 2017

Look at a beautiful engagement ring and you might see small diamonds, called melee diamonds (pronounced meh-lee), that accent the center diamond and make the ring pop. Melee diamonds are a popular way to add sparkle to diamond engagement rings.

So what do you need to know about melee diamonds to make an informed purchase?

In this post we’ll cover:
What Are Melee Diamonds
How Melee Diamonds Are Cut
Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds
Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

What Are Melee Diamonds?

GIA defines melee as small diamonds, either single cut or full cut (see definitions below), weighing less than 1/5 carat (ct). However, the exact size range of melee varies from country to country and from one segment of the trade to another. Melee diamonds can be as small as 0.001 ct (1/1000 of a carat). They are often cut into tiny round diamonds and set around a center stone or on the band.

Hundreds of melee diamonds glitter on a table, waiting to be sorted. Photo: GIA

How Are Melee Diamonds Cut?

Melee diamonds are produced in large quantities in factories that use the latest diamond cutting equipment. High-tech machines have reduced the amount of labor required and improved the quality of the finished product, but cutting and sorting melee is still a labor intensive business. The city of Surat in India is an important manufacturing hub for diamonds, including melee which are faceted, sorted, and sold in parcels of 100 carats or more to jewelry manufacturers who then set them in a wide array of jewelry.

Typical faceting styles for melee include:

Single cut: A cutting style with a round girdle outline and 17 or 18 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including a table, eight crown facets, eight pavilion facets and (very rarely) a culet
Full cut: A round brilliant-cut with 57 or 58 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including 32 crown facets, 24 pavilion facets, a table and (usually) a culet

Sorting small rough diamonds by hand at Alrosa’s Lomonosov mine, Arkhangel, Russian Federation. Photo: Russ Shor/GIA

Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds

The more diamonds in a ring, the more sparkle it has. Due to their small size, melee diamonds are inexpensive when compared to larger diamond center stones, so they are often generously used in engagement ring designs to add sparkle. You’ll also find them as dazzling accents in watch faces, earrings and pendants – really in any piece of jewelry that calls for added sparkle and brilliance.

Halo setting: Melee diamonds are the building blocks for this popular setting, where tiny diamonds encircle the center stone. This style can add sparkle to a ring and draw attention to the center stone and make it appear larger.

Engagement ring featuring a halo setting of melee diamonds.

A halo of melee diamonds makes this engagement ring all the more dazzling. Courtesy: Ziva

Pavé setting: Pronounced “pah-vey” from the French for “to pave,” is a style of bead setting in which many small gems, like melee diamonds, are set close together to create an interlocking honeycomb pattern. It makes for a dramatic, sparkling look and it’s a setting style often used to make complex designs in engagement rings and other jewelry.

Cluster ring featuring 3.35 carats of diamonds in a pavé setting.

Pavé is the central design element in this cluster ring, pavé set with 3.35 carats of diamonds. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

The pavé technique also allows for the creation of more affordable engagement rings, as small diamonds are generally less expensive than larger ones of comparable quality. So an engagement ring with pavé may be a good alternative for those on a budget.

Melee diamond and center stone engagement ring.

Melee diamonds transform a simple design into an intricate work of art. Courtesy: Laurence Bruyninckx – Antwerp

Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

While you’ll have to make decisions about the color, clarity, cut, and carat weight of your diamond center stone, it’s unlikely you’ll have to select the melee for your engagement ring. Melee diamonds are sorted by color and clarity prior to being packaged into parcels and sold to jewelry manufacturers, who will then match them to the diamond center stone.

An independent diamond grading report is a must-have for your diamond center stone given its cost and any reputable jeweler will provide one. A grading report is your assurance that your diamond is natural and discloses any known treatments that may have altered its color or clarity. However, don’t expect to receive grading reports for your melee diamonds. There are a number of reasons why, but the overriding one is economic: The cost of grading for melee is too high in relation to their value. Melee are sold in large parcels often containing hundreds of diamonds so it is not practical to have each one graded.

Carat Weight vs Total Carat Weight

When buying a diamond engagement ring with melee diamonds, it’s important to understand the difference between “carat weight” and “total carat weight,” because diamond weight is a driving factor in determining price. Total carat weight, often abbreviated “tcw” in the jewelry industry, is used to describe the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds. The description carat weight, abbreviated “ct,” only applies to an individual stone, like the center stone. A ring with many small diamonds with a combined total weight of 2.50 carats (or tcw) can cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring with a single diamond weighing 2.50 ct. That’s because larger diamonds are more rare than smaller ones of comparable quality, and therefore they cost more per carat.

Piaget Limelight ladies watch featuring 4.37 carats of melee diamonds.

Shining like stars in the night sky, some 4.37 carats of melee diamonds twinkle in this luxurious Piaget Limelight tonneau-shaped ladies watch. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

The sparkle in your engagement ring telegraphs your love to the world. Melee diamonds can make it glow a bit brighter. But if you’re looking to add even more sparkle to your engagement ring, you can go beyond melee diamonds with these additional engagement ring tips.

April Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Diamonds

April 4, 2017

Diamond does double-duty: it’s the April birthstone and a near-universal symbol of love. So if you were born in April, you have two reasons to adore the gem. Here’s a crash course on it – and tips for picking a beautiful one.

In this post, we’ll cover:
Gemological Information on Diamonds
Diamond History
Diamond Lore
Where Diamonds Come From
Qualities to Look for in a Diamond
Diamond Care & Cleaning

April Birthstone: Gemological Information on Diamonds

The hardest natural material on earth, diamond ranks 10 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness and is the only gem made of a single element: It is typically about 99.95 percent carbon. The other 0.05 percent can include one or more trace elements, which are atoms that aren’t part of a diamond’s essential chemistry. Some trace elements can influence its color or crystal shape. For example, the presence of nitrogen causes diamonds to appear yellow. Boron atoms are often responsible for the color of natural blue diamonds.

Your pulse may quicken admiring this heart-shaped natural Fancy Intense yellow diamond. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

The Blue Empress, a 14 carat Fancy Vivid blue diamond.

Say goodbye to the blues when you admire the Blue Empress, a 14 carat (ct) Fancy Vivid blue diamond. Courtesy: Steinmetz Diamonds

Diamonds form under high temperature and pressure that exist only within a specific depth range (about 100 miles; 160 kilometers) beneath the earth’s surface. The conditions are extreme: Temperatures must be between 2102oF to 2192oF (1150 to 1200 0C); the pressure must be between 50 and 70 kilobars – 50,000 to 70,000 times greater than atmospheric air pressure at sea level. Carbon atoms in this environment in the mantle may form diamond.

A diamond’s hardness is due to the way the carbon atoms bond. Diamond’s crystal structure is isometric, which means the carbon atoms are bonded in essentially the same way in all directions. Graphite, a mineral used to make pencil lead, is also made of carbon, but because the molecules bond differently, this mineral is not nearly as hard.

Gemologists love diamonds because they are beautiful – and because many formed more than a billion years ago. Studying these ancient beauties tell us much about our planet.

April Birthstone: Diamond History

Our love for diamonds started in India, where they were gathered from the country’s rivers and streams. Traded as early as the fourth century BCE, diamonds were coveted by the wealthy. Caravans brought Indian diamonds, along with other exotic merchandise, to medieval markets in Venice. By the 1400s, diamonds were becoming fashionable accessories for Europe’s elite.

This 4 ct old mine cut diamond comes from India’s famed Golconda mines. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Sudhir Jain (Fei)

In the early 1700s, as India’s diamond supplies began to decline, Brazil emerged as an important source. Diamonds were discovered when gold miners sifted through the gravels of local rivers. The country dominated the diamond market for more than 150 years.

The first great South African diamond deposits were unearthed in the late 1800s. The 1866 discovery of diamonds in Kimberley, South Africa, marked the beginning of the modern diamond market. Entrepreneur Cecil Rhodes established De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited in 1888 and, by 1900, De Beers controlled an estimated 90 percent of the world’s production of rough diamonds.

At the end of the 1970s, South Africa, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (previously known as Zaire) and the former Soviet Union were the world’s most important rough diamond producers. In 1982, a highly productive new mine in Botswana added to world production, making the country third in the world in total diamond recovery and second in diamond value. Diamond mining expanded dramatically with the discovery of sources in Australia in 1985 and important new diamond deposits in northern Canada in 2000.

A 8.52 ct rough diamond crystal from the Kao Mine, Lesotho, Africa waits to be transformed into a breathtaking faceted diamond. Photo: Eric Welch/GIA. Courtesy: Fusion Alternatives

April Birthstone: Diamond Lore

An anonymous second-century poet believed diamond warded off the evil eye – a malevolent look believed to cause sickness, poverty and even death. Diamond was even believed to have healing powers. Over the centuries, diamond was thought to be an antidote to poison; a protection against the plague; and a boon for longevity, strength, beauty and happiness.

One look at Jason Dow’s spectacular diamond Empress ring will make you believe that the April birthstone is the cure for all ills. Courtesy: Jason Dow

In addition to being the April birthstone, diamond is the gift of choice for the 60th and 75th wedding anniversaries. And, of course, the diamond engagement ring has become a near-universal symbol of love and marriage.

There are many famous diamonds. The Taylor-Burton Diamond, the Cullinan II, the Portuguese, the Jubilee and the Koh-i-Noor are just a few breathtaking examples.

Taylor-Burton 69.42 carat, D color, Flawless pear-shaped diamond.

The Taylor-Burton diamond is a 69.42 ct, D color, Flawless, pear-shaped gem. This April birthstone sold for US$1.05 million in 1969. Courtesy: Mouawad

April Birthstone: Where Diamonds Come From

Diamonds are now mined around the world – from Angola to Zimbabwe. However, the five largest producers of diamonds account for the vast majority of global production.

Top Diamond Producing Countries – 2015

Country	Rough Diamond Production
Russian Federation	41.9 million carats
Botswana	20.7 million carats
Democratic Republic of the Congo	16.0 million carats
Australia	13.5 million carats
Canada	11.6 million carats

Source:The Kimberly Process

Diamond mining in eastern Siberia reads like an adventure novel. The setting: tundra, frigid temperatures and short days. The props: jet engines and explosives used to heat and soften the ice covering kimberlite pipes – vertical, columnar masses of igneous rock that can be a primary source for diamonds. The story line: In 2013, Alrosa, a Russian diamond mining company, estimated that there were 970 million carats still waiting to be found in the frozen tundra.

Diamonds in Botswana lie below the eastern plains of the country. These prolific mines have been a boon to the economy, creating a growing middle class. The country is also a diamond hub, where approximately 40% of the world’s supply of rough diamonds are sorted and valued.

The Jwaneng diamond mine is one of the most productive in the world. Photo: John Hummel/GIA.

April Birthstone: Qualities to Look for in a Diamond

Until the middle of the twentieth century, there was no agreed-upon standard by which diamonds could be judged. GIA created the 4Cs of Diamond Quality – the first, and now globally accepted standard for describing diamonds.

Color: In most diamonds, the term refers to the absence of color. The less color in the stone, the more desirable it is. Differences can be subtle and difficult for the untrained eye to see, but directly impact the overall quality and value of the stone.
Clarity: Is a measure of the amount, size and placement of internal characteristics, called inclusions, and external characteristics, called blemishes. Grades run from ‘Flawless,’ with virtually no inclusions visible under 10× magnification, to ‘Included,’ which contain obvious inclusions.
Cut: Cut does not refer to a diamond’s shape, but to its proportions and the arrangement of its facets and the quality of workmanship. The amount of brilliance, sparkle and fire in a diamond is determined by cut. Cut grades range from ‘Excellent’ to ‘Poor.’
Carat: This measurement describes a diamond’s weight. Generally speaking, the higher the carat weight, the more expensive the stone. Two diamonds of equal carat weight, however, can have very different qualities and values when the other three Cs are considered.M

Three stone diamond ring totaling 15 carats.

This impressive three-stone ring has 15 carats of diamonds, set in platinum. Courtesy: Rahaminov

April Birthstone: Diamond Care and Cleaning

Clean your diamond by wiping it with a lint-free cloth; or use warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush or a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. Also have your diamond jewelry periodically cleaned and its setting examined by a professional jeweler to maintain its beauty and integrity over time.

Yellow gold earrings set with rough diamonds.

Rough diamonds have been enjoying their moment in the spotlight. They capture another side of the gem’s beauty. Courtesy: Petra Class

Now that you’ve learned something about diamonds, you’ll be a smarter shopper. And maybe you’ll have a greater appreciation for the April birthstone.

Thinking about buying a diamond? Our diamond buying guide can help you pick a stunning one.

The Princess Cut Engagement Ring — A Modern Take on Tradition

March 14, 2017

Princess cut engagement rings are relative newcomers on the diamond engagement ring scene. They’ve gained popularity for their breathtaking brilliance and fire. Discover this distinctive diamond, known for its attention-grabbing sparkle.

The princess cut is among the newest diamond cuts—especially when compared to round and cushion styles that have origins dating back centuries. This stunning cut was first developed in 1979, and is second only to the round brilliant cut diamond as the top choice for engagement ring diamonds. Its royal name “princess” undoubtedly contributes to its appeal. If you are looking for a special diamond, a princess cut engagement ring offers a tremendous amount of brilliance and beauty.

White gold Princess cut engagement ring with pave set accent diamonds

Mark Schneider’s 18K white gold Affection engagement ring with a princess cut center stone and pavé set accent diamonds has an elegant beauty. Courtesy: Mark Schneider Design

It’s not difficult to understand the attraction of this striking diamond cut. Unlike emerald cut engagement rings and other square- or rectangular-shaped diamonds that feature a step cut faceting style, princess cut diamonds have a modified brilliant facet arrangement, offering both electrifying sparkle and a strong, attention-grabbing shape.

How to Find the Right Princess Cut Engagement Ring Diamond

For the most appealing appearance, consider the diamond’s length-to-width ratio. To be called a square princess cut, the ratio cannot exceed 1.05:1. Rectangular princess cuts can have various ratios, but commonly they are no greater than 1.25:1.

Bezel set princess cut diamond engagement ring

A ring with a vintage feel, the Alvadora features a bezel set Princess cut diamond, a latticed halo, milgrain detail and accent diamonds. Courtesy: Brilliant Earth

Beyond shape, symmetry influences the desirability of a princess cut stone. When viewed from above, faceting should match on both sides of its midpoint, both vertically and horizontally. The importance of symmetry applies below the girdle as well. When a princess cut diamond is turned face down, the faceting and shape of each side should mirror the side opposite.

Learn more about how to select a princess cut diamond.

The Princess Cut Engagement Ring: Setting Considerations

Princess cut diamonds are often set as elegant solitaires to show off their arresting beauty. Side stones featuring crisp, angular lines—such as triangles or baguettes—can enhance the presentation of a princess cut diamond. This cut adapts well to a variety of settings, though its straight contours seem an obvious fit for contemporary, architectural diamond engagement ring styles.

14K white gold princess cut diamond engagement ring with accent diamonds totaling 1.25 carats.

This beautiful 14K white gold Heaven’s Gates ring features a princess cut center stone and accent diamonds totaling 1.25 carats. Courtesy: Scott Kay

When shopping for a princess cut engagement ring, it’s important to realize that the sharp pointed corners that contribute to the diamond’s bold geometry are also areas that are vulnerable to chipping. Choosing a setting with four V-shaped prongs, eight prongs with two at each corner (called split prongs), or a bezel setting will keep the corners unscathed and preserve a princess cut diamond’s regal profile.

Princess cut engagement ring with scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree

Simple yet elegant, this Kirk Kara tapered solitaire engagement ring has a princess cut center stone, scroll engraving, milgrain edging and filigree. Courtesy: Kirk Kara

An added bonus to this striking diamond cut may be its price. You may find that princess cut diamonds cost less per carat than comparable round brilliant cut diamonds. That’s because the cutter is able to retain more of the original diamond crystal.

Rose gold princess cut engagement ring with round cut white diamonds

18K rose gold Duchess collection ring with princess cut center stone and round cut white diamonds. Courtesy: Simon G Jewelry

So whether you select a princess cut for a diamond engagement ring because of its distinctive shape or its brilliant sparkle, your future bride will feel just as regal as her diamond’s namesake.

Ready to start shopping? Don’t leave home without learning more about diamonds and the 4Cs of Diamond Quality.

March Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Aquamarine

March 1, 2017

Winter is on the way out; aquamarine is on the way in. The placid hues of the March birthstone are a tranquil antidote to the season’s bluster. Read on to learn more about this gorgeous gem and how to pick a beautiful one.

In this post, we’ll cover:
Gemological Information on Aquamarine
Aquamarine History & Lore
Where Aquamarine Comes From
Qualities to Look for in an Aquamarine
Aquamarine Care & Cleaning

March Birthstone: Gemological Information on Aquamarine

Aquamarine is the green-blue to blue variety of the mineral beryl. (Emerald is the green to bluish green variety of the same mineral.) Most of the aquamarine in the marketplace is a light pastel slightly greenish blue. Traces of iron in beryl’s crystal structure cause aquamarine’s color. Like many beryls, aquamarine may form as large crystals suitable for exceptionally large fashioned gems and carvings.

10,000+ carat Dom Pedro Aquamarine has been described as “the one gem that can rival the Hope Diamond.”

A celebrated attraction at the Smithsonian Institution, the 10,000+ carat Dom Pedro Aquamarine has been described as “the one gem that can rival the Hope Diamond.” Courtesy: Donald E. Hurlbert, Smithsonian Institution

March Birthstone: Aquamarine History & Lore

Aquamarine’s name comes from the Latin for seawater, and ancient mariners claimed the gem would calm waves and keep sailors safe at sea. March’s birthstone was also thought to bring happiness to marriages. Beryl was believed to give the wearer protection against foes in battle and litigation. It was also thought to make the wearer unconquerable and amiable, and to quicken the intellect.

Aquamarine is not only the birthstone for March, the gem is also given as a present on the 19th wedding anniversary. As for famous ones, in 1936 the government of Brazil gave First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt a dark blue rectangular step cut aquamarine that weighed 1,298 carats (ct). It was the larger of two stones faceted from a piece of aquamarine rough that itself weighed an impressive 2.9 pounds (1.3 kilograms). It is now housed at the Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum in Hyde Park, New York. A celebrated attraction at the Smithsonian Institution is the 10,363 ct Dom Pedro Aquamarine – believed to be the largest faceted aquamarine in the world. The 14 inch (36 centimeter) high obelisk was fashioned by acclaimed German lapidary Berndt Munsteiner using the fantasy cut technique.

The government of Brazil gave this 1,298 ct rectangular step cut aquamarine to Eleanor Roosevelt when she and President Roosevelt visited Rio de Janeiro in 1936. Courtesy: The Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum, Hyde Park, New York.

March Birthstone: Where Aquamarine Comes From

The Brazilian state of Minas Gerais has been an important source of aquamarine for the past two centuries. Travel there and you’ll find a changing panorama of landscapes: rocky hills, rivers and scrub brush dominate the central and eastern regions; savannahs, forests and streams checker the west; and lush green hills roll southward. Aquamarines are found in primary (hard rock) and secondary (weathered) pegmatite deposits in the eastern portion of the state, near the gem center of Teófilo Otoni.

Disguised as “love doves,” 14K white gold prongs hold a 32 ct cushion cut aquamarine from Brazil. Courtesy: Loretta Castoro Signature Collection

Aquamarine is also found high in the Karakorum foothills of Pakistan. To reach the deposits, miners must climb steep paths to elevations of 9,800 to 13,000+ feet (3,000 to more than 4,000 meters) and work the sides of forbidding cliffs. Below this inhospitable rocky world lie fertile valleys, rushing rivers and small towns. Aquamarine from this area has been described as “water clear.”

Pakistan’s gem-rich Shigar Valley lies between foothills of the majestic Karakoram range.

A sliver of an opening (on the far left) is the entrance to an aquamarine mine. Pakistan’s gem-rich Shigar Valley lies between foothills of the majestic Karakoram range. Photo: Vincent Pardieu/GIA

Aquamarine is also mined in Kenya, Madagascar, Nigeria, Zambia and Mozambique, as well as elsewhere in Africa. U.S. sources include the Mount Antero area of Colorado (it’s the state gem) and California’s Riverside and San Bernardino counties. In addition, aquamarine has been found in China, Myanmar, Russia and Ukraine, among other countries.

March Birthstone: Qualities to Look for in an Aquamarine

Aquamarine is pastel blue, greenish blue or green-blue. The preferred color is a moderate slightly greenish blue to dark blue. Fine stones are an even blue with no bands of color (called “zoning”). Most faceted aquamarines are free of eye-visible inclusions. Aquamarine is readily available in large sizes – with many fine gems 25 ct or greater. Aquamarine can be cut into almost any shape, and is often fashioned as emerald cuts, pear shapes, or round or oval brilliants. It also lends itself well to fantasy cuts.

A delightfully icy look: a 10.06 ct pear shaped aquamarine is surrounded by 72 round diamonds (0.35 carats) that are set in platinum. Courtesy: Omi Privé

March Birthstone: Aquamarine Care & Cleaning

With a hardness of 7.5 on the Mohs scale, aquamarine is durable enough for everyday wear. Caring for the gem is easy. Use warm water, mild dish soap and a toothbrush to scrub behind the stone where dirt can collect. Ultrasonic cleaners and steam cleaning are usually safe options as long as there are no feathers or liquid inclusions in the gem.

Nearly all the blue aquamarine in jewelry is produced by heat treatment of bluish green, green, greenish yellow and even brownish yellow beryl. The process removes the yellow color component and leaves a purer blue hue. The treatment is undetectable and appears to be permanent.

The aquamarine cabochons in this necklace look like drops of water from the Caribbean. Courtesy: Petra Class

The March birthstone aquamarine has it all: It’s beautiful, eye clean, rich in lore and exceptionably wearable. Now you know how to pick one that will become a cherished addition to your jewelry wardrobe.

Born in March? Pisces and Aries are your zodiac signs. Jewelry designers have fashioned some creative pieces, and we’ve found ones for you to enjoy.

Valentine’s Day Jewelry Celebrates Cupid

February 14, 2017

Cupid, whose arrow causes one to fall madly in love, is arguably the mascot of St. Valentine’s Day. If you’re looking for Valentine’s Day jewelry ideas, take a look at the jewelry he inspires and learn some fun facts about the winged matchmaker.

Cupid wasn’t always Cupid: Go back to ancient Greece, and Cupid was called Eros (Greek for sexual love), the god of love. An irresistibly handsome youth, Eros was a mischief-maker, wreaking havoc on the other gods by shooting them with his arrows and causing them to fall in love with the wrong person.

Eros as a young man decorates this pendant from ancient Greece (circa 300 – 400 BCE). Courtesy: The Walters Art Museum.

An antique agate intaglio pendant (circa 1600) depicts Eros as a muscular, winged youth. Courtesy: Elaine Souza, Gladstone Jewelry

Cupid becomes a child: Romans, around 300 BCE, began depicting the romantic trickster as a child. Images of Cupid (cupido is Latin for desire) adorned the walls in the homes of Pompeii, and later they appeared in paintings and sculptures by Renaissance masters. These works often also contain depictions of cherubs (angels) and decorative putti (male toddlers). But Cupid is the one with the bow and arrow. These formed our modern-day conceptions, which you’ll see in jewelry and other Valentine’s Day mementos.

Cupid is the adorable child in this 18K gold ring with wings studded with 1.90 carats of diamonds. Even his face wears a sweet smile. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Cupid has two kinds of magical arrows: An arrow of gold causes the one struck to fall madly in love, according to the ancient Romans. An arrow of lead fills the receiver with revulsion toward their would-be lover. In the myth of Apollo and Daphne, Cupid created chaos when he launched a gold arrow at the boastful Apollo and a lead arrow at Apollo’s beloved Daphne.

18K gold, sterling silver and diamond-accented earrings. The bow is carved to resemble pieces of knotted wood.

Cupid is only shooting arrows of love in these 18K gold, sterling silver and diamond-accented earrings. A bit of reality is artfully added to the myth: The bow is carved to resemble pieces of knotted wood. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: McKenzie Santimer

Cupid sometimes wears blindfolds: Love is blind, so the saying goes, and Cupid is frequently depicted as being blindfolded. Unable to see, his arrows fly about wildly, bringing together unlikely couples.

Sometimes Cupid is blindfolded; sometimes he’s not. And sometimes he just sports a blindfold on his forehead – as in this 18K gold pin. His unfurled wings and red-tipped arrow are lovely touches. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Cupid reinvented: Cupid is still fluttering around the hearts of lovers and firing the imagination of contemporary designers. Here are some reinterpretations of the myth – they might inspire your search for the perfect piece of Valentine’s Day jewelry.

These 1.50 carats of diamond earrings set in 14K gold of arrows piercing hearts is a creative way to evoke Cupid.

Arrows piercing hearts is a creative way to evoke Cupid. With 1.50 carats of diamonds set in 14K gold, these earrings glow like new love.

A Platinum ring with two heart-shaped diamonds joined by a coil of pavé-set diamonds.

My heart will be wrapped around your finger – so says this platinum ring with two heart-shaped diamonds joined by a coil of pavé-set diamonds. We think Cupid would have approved of the sentiment. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA

A Omi Privé heart shaped ring is the essence of Cupid, and has a 5.10 carat (ct) sapphire surrounded by 1.22 carats of diamonds.

A heart-shaped ring is the essence of Cupid. This one by Omi Privé has a 5.10 carat (ct) sapphire surrounded by 1.22 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: Omi Privé.

Now you can bring the spirit of Cupid to your Valentine’s Day jewelry. Have fun shopping!

Want to learn more about Valentine’s Day and see some breathtaking jewelry? Read our blog on heart-shaped jewelry – you’re sure to fall in love!

February Birthstone: What You Need to Know about Amethyst

February 7, 2017

Amethyst, the February birthstone, has adorned the nobility for centuries. Now it’s in reach of most consumers. Here’s how to pick a stunning amethyst for the king or queen of your heart – or treat yourself to a royal present.

In this post, we’ll cover:
Gemological Characteristics of Amethyst
Amethyst History & Lore
Where Amethyst Comes From
Amethyst Qualities to Look For
Amethyst Care & Cleaning

If this ring with an amethyst center stone seems a bit otherworldly, it’s because it comes from the Galaxy collection by Arya Esha. Courtesy: Arya Esha

February Birthstone: Gemological Characteristics of Amethyst

Amethyst is the purple variety of the quartz mineral species. Its color ranges from a strongly saturated violetish purple to reddish purple in fine quality gems; to weak grayish violet in commercial quality stones. Natural irradiation acting on trace amounts of iron in its crystal structure causes amethyst’s characteristic color. Amethyst also commonly shows color zoning, which often occurs as angular bands of darker to lighter purple. The saturated purple color is typically limited to the tips of amethyst crystals, while the rest of the crystal fades to colorlessness. Cutting an amethyst crystal often produces a few high-quality, deep purple stones and many more low-quality, light-colored stones.

Gemologists and consumers alike love amethyst because it is a beautiful gem that is also affordable. Even fine amethyst can have a modest price tag. Here’s another reason: Amethyst rough comes in fascinating packages. In gem localities like Brazil, amethyst sometimes forms in hollow, crystal-lined geodes so big you can stand in them.

A 22.62 carat (ct) cushion cut amethyst is the dramatic foreground to the amethyst rough behind it. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

February Birthstone: Amethyst History & Lore

The name amethyst derives from the Greek amethystos, which means “a remedy against drunkenness,” a benefit long ascribed to the purple gem. It’s no coincidence that methy is the word for wine, typically of a color very similar to that of this gem. Amethyst was also believed to keep the wearer clear headed and quick witted in battle and business affairs. Renaissance Europeans thought it calmed lovers overrun by passion.

Amethyst is the gem traditionally given for the sixth wedding anniversary. Wear it in celebration of your wedding nuptials or as your February birthstone and you’ll be in royal company: Catherine the Great (Empress Catherine II of Russia; 1729–1796) had a penchant for the gem, and decked herself in necklaces, earrings and other amethyst-adorned ornaments. The famous jewelry connoisseur Wallis, Duchess of Windsor (1896–1986) made a memorable statement when she wore a lavish Cartier-designed amethyst bib necklace to a gala in Versailles in 1953.

The Duchess of Windsor’s bib-style necklace boasts 27 step-cut amethysts, one oval faceted amethyst, and a large heart-shaped amethyst in the front, as well as turquoise cabochons and brilliant cut diamonds, all suspended from a rope-like gold chain.

A colorful medley of purple and blue, the Duchess of Windsor’s bib-style necklace boasts 27 step-cut amethysts, one oval faceted amethyst, and a large heart-shaped amethyst in the front, as well as turquoise cabochons and brilliant cut diamonds, all suspended from a rope-like gold chain. Courtesy: N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier

February Birthstone: Where Amethyst Comes From

Amethyst was as expensive as ruby and emerald until the 19th century, when large deposits were found in Brazil. The country is still an important source for amethyst, and its southernmost state, Rio Grande do Sul, is a particularly productive area. Along with its rich amethyst deposits, the region is also home to vast grassy plains, thick forests, waterfalls, panthers and jaguars.

The Anahí mine in Bolivia is another famous source for amethyst. Hidden in the Pantanál wetlands, the Anahí mine is shrouded in fascinating lore. It was discovered by a Spanish conquistador in the 1600s, given to him as dowry when he married Anahí (a princess from the Ayoreo tribe), forgotten for three centuries, and rediscovered in the 1960s.

A treasure trove of amethyst crystals lines the walls of the Anahí mine. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA.

The February birthstone is also found in Zambia. The country is a major producer, and the Kariba amethyst mine is an important source. Amethyst mined here tends to be of superb quality with richly saturated colors.

On the left is amethyst from Zambia. On the right is amethyst from Brazil. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Pala International

February Birthstone: Amethyst Qualities to Look For

To pick a stunning gem, consider these tips:

Color: The finest amethyst is a strong purple or reddish purple, with no visible color zoning. Any brownish or bronze-colored tints lower the value dramatically. Amethysts that are a little less saturated in color are usually more affordable than those with more color saturation. A light lilac amethyst is usually much less expensive than an intense purple.
Clarity: Almost all faceted amethyst is eye clean; that is, no inclusions can be seen with the naked eye. Material with eye-visible inclusions is usually cut into beads or cabochons.
Cut: It is not unusual to see faceted amethysts of 10 or 20 carats and even larger. Because the gem is so plentiful, matched sets of faceted amethyst are relatively easy to obtain for bracelets and necklaces. The gem can also be found in a variety of fancy cuts and nonstandard sizes.

A Striking fantasy cut amethyst pendant.

A series of grooves and concave facets breathe movement and life into this striking fantasy cut amethyst pendant. Courtesy: Sonja Kreis Unique Jewellery and Gems

February Birthstone: Amethyst Care & Cleaning

Amethyst is a 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness. This means that it is appropriate for daily use in rings and other jewelry, but over time may show wear and require repolishing. Because amethyst is more susceptible to damage than harder gems such as rubies, sapphires and diamonds, do not store your amethyst jewelry next to these, as they can scratch it.

Heat treatment is the most common technique for improving the color and marketability of natural amethyst. Heat treatment can’t make pale amethyst darker, but it can lighten the color of very dark amethyst and make it more attractive. It can also remove unwanted brownish inclusions in some amethysts. Some amethyst turns yellow–to citrine–with heat treatment.

Heat treating amethyst results in a durable and permanent change in color. However, submitting it to intense heat may render it slightly more brittle than usual, and care must be taken not to damage pointed faceted corners and edges. Note, too, that excessive heat can remove the color entirely, and some amethyst fades with prolonged exposure to strong light. Though the color is stable with normal use, this is not a gem to wear to the beach every day.

Amethyst jewelry can be cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner or a steamer, but use caution to avoid thermal shock. A soft brush with mild soap is the safest option.

As you shop, you’ll also encounter lab-created amethyst. Having the same chemical properties as its natural counterpart, synthetic amethyst has been manufactured since the 1970s. As manufacturing processes became increasingly sophisticated, it became more difficult for gemological labs to distinguish natural from synthetic amethyst. GIA can tell the difference, but many in the jewelry industry do not request testing because of the expense and time required to determine the origin of what is a comparatively inexpensive gem. Still, merchants are required to tell you if a gem is natural or synthetic.

These gems from the Montezuma mine in Minas Gerais, Brazil show the varied coloration of quartz: untreated amethyst (left), heated green quartz (center) and heated and irradiated violet quartz (right). Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Henrique Fernandes and Gabriel Freitas, Pinkstone International, Governador Valadares, Brazil.

Amethyst has enchanted kings and queens for many centuries. Now you know how to buy a royal gift for your love with a February birthday. And for some quick tips, take along our Amethyst Buying Guide the next time you go shopping.

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog