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Melee Diamonds: Tiny Diamonds, Big Impact

April 11, 2017

Look at a beautiful engagement ring and you might see small diamonds, called melee diamonds (pronounced meh-lee), that accent the center diamond and make the ring pop. Melee diamonds are a popular way to add sparkle to diamond engagement rings.

So what do you need to know about melee diamonds to make an informed purchase?

In this post we’ll cover:
What Are Melee Diamonds
How Melee Diamonds Are Cut
Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds
Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

What Are Melee Diamonds?

GIA defines melee as small diamonds, either single cut or full cut (see definitions below), weighing less than 1/5 carat (ct). However, the exact size range of melee varies from country to country and from one segment of the trade to another. Melee diamonds can be as small as 0.001 ct (1/1000 of a carat). They are often cut into tiny round diamonds and set around a center stone or on the band.

Hundreds of melee diamonds glitter on a table, waiting to be sorted. Photo: GIA

How Are Melee Diamonds Cut?

Melee diamonds are produced in large quantities in factories that use the latest diamond cutting equipment. High-tech machines have reduced the amount of labor required and improved the quality of the finished product, but cutting and sorting melee is still a labor intensive business. The city of Surat in India is an important manufacturing hub for diamonds, including melee which are faceted, sorted, and sold in parcels of 100 carats or more to jewelry manufacturers who then set them in a wide array of jewelry.

Typical faceting styles for melee include:

Single cut: A cutting style with a round girdle outline and 17 or 18 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including a table, eight crown facets, eight pavilion facets and (very rarely) a culet
Full cut: A round brilliant-cut with 57 or 58 facets, depending on whether a culet is present, including 32 crown facets, 24 pavilion facets, a table and (usually) a culet

Sorting small rough diamonds by hand at Alrosa’s Lomonosov mine, Arkhangel, Russian Federation. Photo: Russ Shor/GIA

Popular Ring Settings for Melee Diamonds

The more diamonds in a ring, the more sparkle it has. Due to their small size, melee diamonds are inexpensive when compared to larger diamond center stones, so they are often generously used in engagement ring designs to add sparkle. You’ll also find them as dazzling accents in watch faces, earrings and pendants – really in any piece of jewelry that calls for added sparkle and brilliance.

Halo setting: Melee diamonds are the building blocks for this popular setting, where tiny diamonds encircle the center stone. This style can add sparkle to a ring and draw attention to the center stone and make it appear larger.

Engagement ring featuring a halo setting of melee diamonds.

A halo of melee diamonds makes this engagement ring all the more dazzling. Courtesy: Ziva

Pavé setting: Pronounced “pah-vey” from the French for “to pave,” is a style of bead setting in which many small gems, like melee diamonds, are set close together to create an interlocking honeycomb pattern. It makes for a dramatic, sparkling look and it’s a setting style often used to make complex designs in engagement rings and other jewelry.

Cluster ring featuring 3.35 carats of diamonds in a pavé setting.

Pavé is the central design element in this cluster ring, pavé set with 3.35 carats of diamonds. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

The pavé technique also allows for the creation of more affordable engagement rings, as small diamonds are generally less expensive than larger ones of comparable quality. So an engagement ring with pavé may be a good alternative for those on a budget.

Melee diamond and center stone engagement ring.

Melee diamonds transform a simple design into an intricate work of art. Courtesy: Laurence Bruyninckx – Antwerp

Melee Diamonds and Your Engagement Ring

While you’ll have to make decisions about the color, clarity, cut, and carat weight of your diamond center stone, it’s unlikely you’ll have to select the melee for your engagement ring. Melee diamonds are sorted by color and clarity prior to being packaged into parcels and sold to jewelry manufacturers, who will then match them to the diamond center stone.

An independent diamond grading report is a must-have for your diamond center stone given its cost and any reputable jeweler will provide one. A grading report is your assurance that your diamond is natural and discloses any known treatments that may have altered its color or clarity. However, don’t expect to receive grading reports for your melee diamonds. There are a number of reasons why, but the overriding one is economic: The cost of grading for melee is too high in relation to their value. Melee are sold in large parcels often containing hundreds of diamonds so it is not practical to have each one graded.

Carat Weight vs Total Carat Weight

When buying a diamond engagement ring with melee diamonds, it’s important to understand the difference between “carat weight” and “total carat weight,” because diamond weight is a driving factor in determining price. Total carat weight, often abbreviated “tcw” in the jewelry industry, is used to describe the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds. The description carat weight, abbreviated “ct,” only applies to an individual stone, like the center stone. A ring with many small diamonds with a combined total weight of 2.50 carats (or tcw) can cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring with a single diamond weighing 2.50 ct. That’s because larger diamonds are more rare than smaller ones of comparable quality, and therefore they cost more per carat.

Piaget Limelight ladies watch featuring 4.37 carats of melee diamonds.

Shining like stars in the night sky, some 4.37 carats of melee diamonds twinkle in this luxurious Piaget Limelight tonneau-shaped ladies watch. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

The sparkle in your engagement ring telegraphs your love to the world. Melee diamonds can make it glow a bit brighter. But if you’re looking to add even more sparkle to your engagement ring, you can go beyond melee diamonds with these additional engagement ring tips.

April Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Diamonds

April 4, 2017

Diamond does double-duty: it’s the April birthstone and a near-universal symbol of love. So if you were born in April, you have two reasons to adore the gem. Here’s a crash course on it – and tips for picking a beautiful one.

In this post, we’ll cover:
Gemological Information on Diamonds
Diamond History
Diamond Lore
Where Diamonds Come From
Qualities to Look for in a Diamond
Diamond Care & Cleaning

April Birthstone: Gemological Information on Diamonds

The hardest natural material on earth, diamond ranks 10 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness and is the only gem made of a single element: It is typically about 99.95 percent carbon. The other 0.05 percent can include one or more trace elements, which are atoms that aren’t part of a diamond’s essential chemistry. Some trace elements can influence its color or crystal shape. For example, the presence of nitrogen causes diamonds to appear yellow. Boron atoms are often responsible for the color of natural blue diamonds.

Your pulse may quicken admiring this heart-shaped natural Fancy Intense yellow diamond. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

The Blue Empress, a 14 carat Fancy Vivid blue diamond.

Say goodbye to the blues when you admire the Blue Empress, a 14 carat (ct) Fancy Vivid blue diamond. Courtesy: Steinmetz Diamonds

Diamonds form under high temperature and pressure that exist only within a specific depth range (about 100 miles; 160 kilometers) beneath the earth’s surface. The conditions are extreme: Temperatures must be between 2102oF to 2192oF (1150 to 1200 0C); the pressure must be between 50 and 70 kilobars – 50,000 to 70,000 times greater than atmospheric air pressure at sea level. Carbon atoms in this environment in the mantle may form diamond.

A diamond’s hardness is due to the way the carbon atoms bond. Diamond’s crystal structure is isometric, which means the carbon atoms are bonded in essentially the same way in all directions. Graphite, a mineral used to make pencil lead, is also made of carbon, but because the molecules bond differently, this mineral is not nearly as hard.

Gemologists love diamonds because they are beautiful – and because many formed more than a billion years ago. Studying these ancient beauties tell us much about our planet.

April Birthstone: Diamond History

Our love for diamonds started in India, where they were gathered from the country’s rivers and streams. Traded as early as the fourth century BCE, diamonds were coveted by the wealthy. Caravans brought Indian diamonds, along with other exotic merchandise, to medieval markets in Venice. By the 1400s, diamonds were becoming fashionable accessories for Europe’s elite.

This 4 ct old mine cut diamond comes from India’s famed Golconda mines. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Sudhir Jain (Fei)

In the early 1700s, as India’s diamond supplies began to decline, Brazil emerged as an important source. Diamonds were discovered when gold miners sifted through the gravels of local rivers. The country dominated the diamond market for more than 150 years.

The first great South African diamond deposits were unearthed in the late 1800s. The 1866 discovery of diamonds in Kimberley, South Africa, marked the beginning of the modern diamond market. Entrepreneur Cecil Rhodes established De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited in 1888 and, by 1900, De Beers controlled an estimated 90 percent of the world’s production of rough diamonds.

At the end of the 1970s, South Africa, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (previously known as Zaire) and the former Soviet Union were the world’s most important rough diamond producers. In 1982, a highly productive new mine in Botswana added to world production, making the country third in the world in total diamond recovery and second in diamond value. Diamond mining expanded dramatically with the discovery of sources in Australia in 1985 and important new diamond deposits in northern Canada in 2000.

A 8.52 ct rough diamond crystal from the Kao Mine, Lesotho, Africa waits to be transformed into a breathtaking faceted diamond. Photo: Eric Welch/GIA. Courtesy: Fusion Alternatives

April Birthstone: Diamond Lore

An anonymous second-century poet believed diamond warded off the evil eye – a malevolent look believed to cause sickness, poverty and even death. Diamond was even believed to have healing powers. Over the centuries, diamond was thought to be an antidote to poison; a protection against the plague; and a boon for longevity, strength, beauty and happiness.

One look at Jason Dow’s spectacular diamond Empress ring will make you believe that the April birthstone is the cure for all ills. Courtesy: Jason Dow

In addition to being the April birthstone, diamond is the gift of choice for the 60th and 75th wedding anniversaries. And, of course, the diamond engagement ring has become a near-universal symbol of love and marriage.

There are many famous diamonds. The Taylor-Burton Diamond, the Cullinan II, the Portuguese, the Jubilee and the Koh-i-Noor are just a few breathtaking examples.

Taylor-Burton 69.42 carat, D color, Flawless pear-shaped diamond.

The Taylor-Burton diamond is a 69.42 ct, D color, Flawless, pear-shaped gem. This April birthstone sold for US$1.05 million in 1969. Courtesy: Mouawad

April Birthstone: Where Diamonds Come From

Diamonds are now mined around the world – from Angola to Zimbabwe. However, the five largest producers of diamonds account for the vast majority of global production.

Top Diamond Producing Countries – 2015

Country	Rough Diamond Production
Russian Federation	41.9 million carats
Botswana	20.7 million carats
Democratic Republic of the Congo	16.0 million carats
Australia	13.5 million carats
Canada	11.6 million carats

Source:The Kimberly Process

Diamond mining in eastern Siberia reads like an adventure novel. The setting: tundra, frigid temperatures and short days. The props: jet engines and explosives used to heat and soften the ice covering kimberlite pipes – vertical, columnar masses of igneous rock that can be a primary source for diamonds. The story line: In 2013, Alrosa, a Russian diamond mining company, estimated that there were 970 million carats still waiting to be found in the frozen tundra.

Diamonds in Botswana lie below the eastern plains of the country. These prolific mines have been a boon to the economy, creating a growing middle class. The country is also a diamond hub, where approximately 40% of the world’s supply of rough diamonds are sorted and valued.

The Jwaneng diamond mine is one of the most productive in the world. Photo: John Hummel/GIA.

April Birthstone: Qualities to Look for in a Diamond

Until the middle of the twentieth century, there was no agreed-upon standard by which diamonds could be judged. GIA created the 4Cs of Diamond Quality – the first, and now globally accepted standard for describing diamonds.

Color: In most diamonds, the term refers to the absence of color. The less color in the stone, the more desirable it is. Differences can be subtle and difficult for the untrained eye to see, but directly impact the overall quality and value of the stone.
Clarity: Is a measure of the amount, size and placement of internal characteristics, called inclusions, and external characteristics, called blemishes. Grades run from ‘Flawless,’ with virtually no inclusions visible under 10× magnification, to ‘Included,’ which contain obvious inclusions.
Cut: Cut does not refer to a diamond’s shape, but to its proportions and the arrangement of its facets and the quality of workmanship. The amount of brilliance, sparkle and fire in a diamond is determined by cut. Cut grades range from ‘Excellent’ to ‘Poor.’
Carat: This measurement describes a diamond’s weight. Generally speaking, the higher the carat weight, the more expensive the stone. Two diamonds of equal carat weight, however, can have very different qualities and values when the other three Cs are considered.M

Three stone diamond ring totaling 15 carats.

This impressive three-stone ring has 15 carats of diamonds, set in platinum. Courtesy: Rahaminov

April Birthstone: Diamond Care and Cleaning

Clean your diamond by wiping it with a lint-free cloth; or use warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush or a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. Also have your diamond jewelry periodically cleaned and its setting examined by a professional jeweler to maintain its beauty and integrity over time.

Yellow gold earrings set with rough diamonds.

Rough diamonds have been enjoying their moment in the spotlight. They capture another side of the gem’s beauty. Courtesy: Petra Class

Now that you’ve learned something about diamonds, you’ll be a smarter shopper. And maybe you’ll have a greater appreciation for the April birthstone.

Thinking about buying a diamond? Our diamond buying guide can help you pick a stunning one.

February Birthstone: What You Need to Know about Amethyst

February 7, 2017

Amethyst, the February birthstone, has adorned the nobility for centuries. Now it’s in reach of most consumers. Here’s how to pick a stunning amethyst for the king or queen of your heart – or treat yourself to a royal present.

In this post, we’ll cover:
Gemological Characteristics of Amethyst
Amethyst History & Lore
Where Amethyst Comes From
Amethyst Qualities to Look For
Amethyst Care & Cleaning

If this ring with an amethyst center stone seems a bit otherworldly, it’s because it comes from the Galaxy collection by Arya Esha. Courtesy: Arya Esha

February Birthstone: Gemological Characteristics of Amethyst

Amethyst is the purple variety of the quartz mineral species. Its color ranges from a strongly saturated violetish purple to reddish purple in fine quality gems; to weak grayish violet in commercial quality stones. Natural irradiation acting on trace amounts of iron in its crystal structure causes amethyst’s characteristic color. Amethyst also commonly shows color zoning, which often occurs as angular bands of darker to lighter purple. The saturated purple color is typically limited to the tips of amethyst crystals, while the rest of the crystal fades to colorlessness. Cutting an amethyst crystal often produces a few high-quality, deep purple stones and many more low-quality, light-colored stones.

Gemologists and consumers alike love amethyst because it is a beautiful gem that is also affordable. Even fine amethyst can have a modest price tag. Here’s another reason: Amethyst rough comes in fascinating packages. In gem localities like Brazil, amethyst sometimes forms in hollow, crystal-lined geodes so big you can stand in them.

A 22.62 carat (ct) cushion cut amethyst is the dramatic foreground to the amethyst rough behind it. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

February Birthstone: Amethyst History & Lore

The name amethyst derives from the Greek amethystos, which means “a remedy against drunkenness,” a benefit long ascribed to the purple gem. It’s no coincidence that methy is the word for wine, typically of a color very similar to that of this gem. Amethyst was also believed to keep the wearer clear headed and quick witted in battle and business affairs. Renaissance Europeans thought it calmed lovers overrun by passion.

Amethyst is the gem traditionally given for the sixth wedding anniversary. Wear it in celebration of your wedding nuptials or as your February birthstone and you’ll be in royal company: Catherine the Great (Empress Catherine II of Russia; 1729–1796) had a penchant for the gem, and decked herself in necklaces, earrings and other amethyst-adorned ornaments. The famous jewelry connoisseur Wallis, Duchess of Windsor (1896–1986) made a memorable statement when she wore a lavish Cartier-designed amethyst bib necklace to a gala in Versailles in 1953.

The Duchess of Windsor’s bib-style necklace boasts 27 step-cut amethysts, one oval faceted amethyst, and a large heart-shaped amethyst in the front, as well as turquoise cabochons and brilliant cut diamonds, all suspended from a rope-like gold chain.

A colorful medley of purple and blue, the Duchess of Windsor’s bib-style necklace boasts 27 step-cut amethysts, one oval faceted amethyst, and a large heart-shaped amethyst in the front, as well as turquoise cabochons and brilliant cut diamonds, all suspended from a rope-like gold chain. Courtesy: N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier

February Birthstone: Where Amethyst Comes From

Amethyst was as expensive as ruby and emerald until the 19th century, when large deposits were found in Brazil. The country is still an important source for amethyst, and its southernmost state, Rio Grande do Sul, is a particularly productive area. Along with its rich amethyst deposits, the region is also home to vast grassy plains, thick forests, waterfalls, panthers and jaguars.

The Anahí mine in Bolivia is another famous source for amethyst. Hidden in the Pantanál wetlands, the Anahí mine is shrouded in fascinating lore. It was discovered by a Spanish conquistador in the 1600s, given to him as dowry when he married Anahí (a princess from the Ayoreo tribe), forgotten for three centuries, and rediscovered in the 1960s.

A treasure trove of amethyst crystals lines the walls of the Anahí mine. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA.

The February birthstone is also found in Zambia. The country is a major producer, and the Kariba amethyst mine is an important source. Amethyst mined here tends to be of superb quality with richly saturated colors.

On the left is amethyst from Zambia. On the right is amethyst from Brazil. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Pala International

February Birthstone: Amethyst Qualities to Look For

To pick a stunning gem, consider these tips:

Color: The finest amethyst is a strong purple or reddish purple, with no visible color zoning. Any brownish or bronze-colored tints lower the value dramatically. Amethysts that are a little less saturated in color are usually more affordable than those with more color saturation. A light lilac amethyst is usually much less expensive than an intense purple.
Clarity: Almost all faceted amethyst is eye clean; that is, no inclusions can be seen with the naked eye. Material with eye-visible inclusions is usually cut into beads or cabochons.
Cut: It is not unusual to see faceted amethysts of 10 or 20 carats and even larger. Because the gem is so plentiful, matched sets of faceted amethyst are relatively easy to obtain for bracelets and necklaces. The gem can also be found in a variety of fancy cuts and nonstandard sizes.

A Striking fantasy cut amethyst pendant.

A series of grooves and concave facets breathe movement and life into this striking fantasy cut amethyst pendant. Courtesy: Sonja Kreis Unique Jewellery and Gems

February Birthstone: Amethyst Care & Cleaning

Amethyst is a 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness. This means that it is appropriate for daily use in rings and other jewelry, but over time may show wear and require repolishing. Because amethyst is more susceptible to damage than harder gems such as rubies, sapphires and diamonds, do not store your amethyst jewelry next to these, as they can scratch it.

Heat treatment is the most common technique for improving the color and marketability of natural amethyst. Heat treatment can’t make pale amethyst darker, but it can lighten the color of very dark amethyst and make it more attractive. It can also remove unwanted brownish inclusions in some amethysts. Some amethyst turns yellow–to citrine–with heat treatment.

Heat treating amethyst results in a durable and permanent change in color. However, submitting it to intense heat may render it slightly more brittle than usual, and care must be taken not to damage pointed faceted corners and edges. Note, too, that excessive heat can remove the color entirely, and some amethyst fades with prolonged exposure to strong light. Though the color is stable with normal use, this is not a gem to wear to the beach every day.

Amethyst jewelry can be cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner or a steamer, but use caution to avoid thermal shock. A soft brush with mild soap is the safest option.

As you shop, you’ll also encounter lab-created amethyst. Having the same chemical properties as its natural counterpart, synthetic amethyst has been manufactured since the 1970s. As manufacturing processes became increasingly sophisticated, it became more difficult for gemological labs to distinguish natural from synthetic amethyst. GIA can tell the difference, but many in the jewelry industry do not request testing because of the expense and time required to determine the origin of what is a comparatively inexpensive gem. Still, merchants are required to tell you if a gem is natural or synthetic.

These gems from the Montezuma mine in Minas Gerais, Brazil show the varied coloration of quartz: untreated amethyst (left), heated green quartz (center) and heated and irradiated violet quartz (right). Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Henrique Fernandes and Gabriel Freitas, Pinkstone International, Governador Valadares, Brazil.

Amethyst has enchanted kings and queens for many centuries. Now you know how to buy a royal gift for your love with a February birthday. And for some quick tips, take along our Amethyst Buying Guide the next time you go shopping.

The Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring – A Symbol of Love

January 31, 2017

A heart-shaped engagement ring is unabashedly romantic and the perfect symbol of love. But did you know that heart-shaped diamonds are relatively uncommon in diamond engagement rings?

There are many reasons for this. Perhaps top among them the fact that the heart shape works best for larger diamonds – those that are at least one-half carat in size. But although uncommon, heart-shaped diamonds are having their moment in the spotlight. If you have your heart set on a heart-shaped engagement ring, read on for some tips to help you pick the perfect one.

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: It’s All about the Outline and Symmetry

The outline needs to reflect a traditional heart shape. You may find some that have pointed lobes or very flat wings, rendering an outline that resembles an arrowhead. Symmetry is a key indicator of quality in a diamond of this shape. (After all, who wants an off-kilter sign of affection?) Both left and right sides of the heart should match in size and shape, although it’s not unusual for the width of the diamond to be greater than its length.

Here’s a helpful tip you can use when you’re in a jewelry store:
1. Draw an imaginary line down the center of the diamond you’re eyeing.
2. Check to see if both halves of the heart match in size and shape, from cleft (the center V-shaped region) to lobes (the rounded portions) to point.
3. A symmetrical heart-shaped diamond should also have a length-to-width ratio of 1:1 to 1:1.2.

Fancy yellow 7.02 carat (ct) symmetrical heart-shaped diamond surrounded by 1.08 carats of yellow pavé-set diamonds.

Romance can sometimes be rocky, but the heart remains steady in this fancy yellow 7.02 carat (ct) symmetrical heart-shaped diamond surrounded by 1.08 carats of yellow pavé-set diamonds. The left and right sides look identical. Courtesy: Norman Silverman.

You’re likely to see a number of heart-shaped diamonds that are asymmetrical. Examples of this include a poor length-to-width ratio, misshapen wings and an undefined point. Take a look at the asymmetrical heart-shaped diamond below.

Asymmetry detracts from the innate appeal of a heart-shaped diamond as the high shoulders, flatish wings and short length-to-width ratio of this stone illustrate.

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: Clarity Counts

Clarity characteristics can be easier to spot in heart-shaped diamonds. It’s best to look for a stone with good diamond clarity. Avoid diamonds with eye-visible inclusions that could diminish their beauty and affect their durability and value.

This beautiful platinum ring featuring a 1.25 ct heart-shaped diamond surrounded by pavé-set diamonds is sure to tell her you love her.

All clear? Only a closer look – and a GIA Diamond Grading Report – can tell. This beautiful platinum ring featuring a 1.25 ct heart-shaped diamond surrounded by pavé-set diamonds is sure to tell her you love her. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer

Heart-Shaped Engagement Ring: Settings

Most heart-shaped engagement rings are relatively simple in design: streamlined styles emphasize the special silhouette of the diamond’s shape, which offers plenty of drama on its own. Consider classic solitaire settings or elegant halo designs that trace the outline of the central diamond in small, pavé-set stones.

Surrounding a heart-shaped diamond by melee and placing it in a halo setting protects the point – and creates a stunner of a ring. Courtesy: Yael Designs

As a practical matter, it’s smart to look for a diamond engagement ring that shields the point of a heart-shaped diamond, since it’s the part of the stone most vulnerable to damage. Once you’ve found the heart of your dreams, you’ll want to protect it.

Simple yet stunning, this lovely fancy brown-yellow 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond makes the perfect engagement ring. Courtesy: Mark Broumand

Ready to go shopping? Pick up more tips with our blog post on Picking a Heart-Shaped Gem. It gets into the details of choosing the perfect heart-shaped gem to symbolize your love.

Main Image: Per Lei single shank heart-shape engagement ring. Courtesy: Danhov

How to Get the Most Diamond Sparkle

January 24, 2017

Diamond sparkle might be one of the most-desired requirements for an engagement ring. A diamond’s breathtaking light show is one of the reasons we love this gem. But finding a diamond that sparkles requires some knowledge. So let’s get to it!

In this post, we’ll cover:
What Makes a Diamond Sparkle
How to Choose a Diamond that Sparkles
Maximize Diamond Sparkle – What Works/What Doesn’t

A pavé set diamond halo surrounds a center stone. The diamonds weigh a total of 1.46 carats.

A pavé set diamond halo surrounds a center stone, creating numerous opportunities for sparkle. The diamonds weigh a total of 1.46 carats. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

What Makes a Diamond Sparkle?

The short answer: light’s interaction with a diamond’s cut. The type and quality of the cut govern how a diamond reacts to the light around it. The angles and relative measurements of a diamond’s facets, as well as its other proportions, have a dramatic effect on how light performs when it strikes a diamond.

The long answer: You probably use the word “sparkle” in a very general way to describe the overall visual effect of a diamond’s interaction with light. But gemologists who have closely studied diamond’s signature light show break it down this way:

When light enters a diamond, it travels through it, reflecting off its interior surfaces, called facets. It then either leaves the diamond as white light, called brightness, or it divides into the spectral colors of the rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet, called fire.

Light leaving a diamond as spectral colors can be quite breathtaking. Copyright: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt.

As you or the diamond moves, an effect called scintillation occurs – visible as alternating flashes of white and spectral-colored light and the contrast of dark and light that moves around the diamond. This contrast is dynamic and causes, in layperson’s terms, sparkle.

How to Choose a Diamond that Sparkles

Since diamond sparkle is all about how well the stone interacts with light, the environment in which you view the diamond and the diamond’s cut quality are critical.

1. Be sure to examine the diamond under four different light sources. Spot lighting (or a lot of individual light sources) is the best way to see all the elements that produce sparkle. However, if there are too many spot lights and they are too bright, there will be so much glare that one diamond will look just as good as any other.

To avoid this, observe the diamond in an environment where the spot lighting is not overwhelming. Then look at the diamond in diffused lighting — fluorescent lights that bounce light off a white ceiling are best. Third, try to view it in a mixed lighting environment of spotlights and diffused lighting. And, finally, don’t forget to view the diamond in natural daylight.

Learn more about how light affects the appearance of a diamond.

A 1.52 carat (ct) round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

A 1.52 carat (ct) round brilliant diamond is a visual delight in this engagement ring. Courtesy: EraGem

2. Pay attention to cutting style. The more facets a diamond has, the more reflective surfaces there are to bounce and scatter light. A round brilliant cut diamond with its 57 or 58 facets will appear to have more sparkle than a single-cut diamond with only 17 or 18 facets. Learn how to pick a round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

If you have your heart set on a shape other than round, you can still get the sparkle if you look for diamond shapes cut in the brilliant faceting style. These include princess, radiant, oval, pear, heart and marquise.

This 8.06 ct Asscher cut diamond from Cartier, circa 1935, is spectacular. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Pay attention to cut quality. There’s another solution for standard round brilliants, if you’re unsure about judging a diamond’s sparkle. A GIA Diamond Grading Report can be of great value in finding a diamond that sparkles. GIA issues one of five cut grades for a round brilliant diamond: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.

A diamond with an Excellent cut grade is very bright. It shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas, so the reflections appear crisp and well balanced. This tells you that the cutter created the best possible stone from the rough.

A Very Good cut grade means the diamond has bright areas evenly distributed across the stone’s crown and few distracting areas.

A diamond with a Good cut grade isn’t quite as bright – reflections aren’t as sharp and there’s more darkness or dullness in the diamond.

A diamond with a Poor cut grade has much more prominent dark areas or dullness. Given the choice, most people would pick diamonds with either Very Good or Excellent grades.

This diamond has an Excellent cut grade: It is very bright and shows an even pattern with good contrast between light and dark areas. Reflections appear crisp and well balanced. If all else is equal, an Excellent cut grade pretty much guarantees an extremely attractive diamond. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

This diamond has a Good cut grade. Its bright-reflections aren’t as sharp and there’s more darkening around the girdle. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

This diamond has a Poor cut grade. It has significantly more prominent dark areas; there’s a much smaller bright area. Photo: Al Gilbertson and Barak Green/GIA.

Learn more about how GIA grades diamond cut.

Maximizing Diamond Sparkle – What Works/What Doesn’t

Looking for more visual bang for your buck when purchasing a diamond engagement ring? Here are some tips for getting the most diamond sparkle.

1. Bigger is not necessarily better. You may think: the larger the diamond, the more sparkle. But in reality, diamonds with identical proportions, color and clarity have the same amount of sparkle regardless of size. Visually, you might perceive a difference when comparing two diamonds that are dramatically different in size. For example, a 0.25 ct diamond may appear to sparkle less than the 1.00 ct diamond next to it. But when it comes to choosing a diamond, typically you’re making a selection between diamonds that fall within a narrow size range, so slight differences in diamond size would have no effect on your perception of sparkle. Again, this assumes the cut quality of the diamonds being compared is the same.

A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank.

Talk about sparkle! This three-stone engagement ring seems to have it all. A marquise-shaped diamond in the center is flanked by two half–round brilliant cut diamonds, all of which are surrounded by more diamonds in a pavé setting that extends along the ring’s shank. Courtesy: ZIVA Jewels Inc.

2. Choose a diamond with good color and clarity. Researchers have found that brightness diminishes in diamonds that grade lower on the D-to-Z color range. Likewise, clarity issues in diamonds graded SI2 or I can diminish the appearance of fire. Both will reduce the sparkle in a diamond.

3. More diamonds, more sparkle. Definitely yes! More diamonds, whether big or small, will add more sparkle to your engagement ring. This is one reason why diamond side stones and pavé settings are so popular.

4. Pick the right setting. If you’re looking for a bigger visual display, a prong setting is better at allowing light to enter the diamond than bezel settings that cover more of the top surface of the diamond. Learn more about different setting styles.

This solitaire engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. features a 2.28 ct round brilliant diamond.

You can have lots of sparkle and still have a simple ring design. This solitaire engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. features a 2.28 ct round brilliant diamond. Courtesy: Pampillonia Estate and Fine Jewelry

5. Keep the diamond clean. This is probably the most important (and affordable) tip. A diamond that’s dirty will not sparkle. Diamonds have an affinity for grease, so it’s important to clean them regularly. Find out how to keep your diamond clean.

In the end, nothing adds sparkle to an engagement ring like the love with which it’s given. So follow your heart and relish the moment — you really can’t go wrong.

If you need a little extra help as you shop, check out our glossary of common engagement ring terms. They’ll help you better communicate your needs and desires with a jeweler.

What Is a Real Diamond?

January 10, 2017

What Is a Real Diamond?

It’s unlikely that you’ll hear a professionally trained gemologist call a diamond a real diamond, or use the word “real” to describe any material. If you want to come across as a smart shopper, you’ll need to rephrase the question.

For decades, diamonds have been the gem of choice for engagement rings. But with the advent of synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants, it’s only natural to ask about real diamonds. “Real” is not a gemological term. But to the consumer, it’s an important one.

A Diamond Is a Diamond Is a Diamond

From a gem professional’s point of view, a diamond is a diamond if it has a characteristic chemical composition and crystal structure. Diamond is composed almost entirely of a single element: carbon. It forms under conditions of high temperature and pressure that cause its carbon atoms to bond in essentially the same way in all directions. Another mineral, graphite, also contains only carbon, but its formation process and crystal structure are very different. The result is that graphite is so soft that you can write with it, while diamond is so hard that you can only scratch it with another diamond.

This definition of diamond applies to diamonds that come from the earth, as well as those that are created in a laboratory. It does not apply to other materials that might masquerade as diamonds.

So, when you ask a jeweler for a real diamond, you could be asking for a diamond created by nature or one created in a lab – since both materials qualify as diamond. Reputable jewelers avoid the term “real” altogether and, following U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines, clearly distinguish between natural diamonds, synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants (or imitations).

In other posts we explain synthetic diamonds and diamond imitations. Here, we’ll dig a little deeper into natural diamonds and their incredible journey from deep below the earth’s surface to the engagement ring worn by your loved one.

A Brief Description of a Natural Diamond

Natural diamonds are one of nature’s wonders. Billions of years old, they formed deep in the earth’s mantle and were brought to the surface by volcanic eruptions. Two types of magma, kimberlite and lamproite, sometimes carried diamond rough with them. The magma quickly solidified into a diamond-bearing kimberlite or lamproite pipe.

A craton is an ancient, deep and stable portion of a continent. Its high heat and pressure provide the right conditions for diamond formation. Conditions under a craton are also stable enough to preserve diamonds for hundreds of millions of years after formation. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

Most of the world’s diamonds are found in kimberlite, but the famed Argyle mine in Australia–once the world’s leading diamond producer– is a lamproite deposit. Major companies recover the diamonds by digging large open-pit mines to find the buried treasures. Over time, as the typically cone-shaped pipes narrow down, the companies switch to underground mining to capture the last of the diamonds.

Some diamonds end up in rivers, streams and even the ocean after forces of erosion released the crystals from their host rocks and gradually washed them into bodies of water. When diamonds are found this way, it’s called alluvial mining – a process of digging and sifting through mud, sand and gravel. While river sediments are often worked by small-scale miners using rudimentary techniques, large boats are used to scour the ocean sands off the coast of Namibia in search of fine diamonds.

A natural diamond rough in an octahedron shape.

Natural diamond rough is often shaped like an octahedron. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Fusion Alternatives

For most of recorded history, the extreme scarcity of diamonds made them available only to the elite. In fact, up until 1730, the Golconda region of southern India and the Pacific island of Borneo were the only known diamond-producing regions in the world. Then diamonds were discovered in Brazil around the 1720s and a diamond ‘rush’ began. Soon, Brazil eclipsed India as the world’s top diamond producer, holding this title through the mid-1800s. With the discovery of large diamond-bearing kimberlite pipes in South Africa in the late 1860s, mining began on an industrial scale, increasing supply to meet broader consumer demand. Diamonds are now mined in several countries around the world, including Russia, Botswana and Canada, as well as South Africa and Australia. Learn more about where diamonds come from.

The face-up view of this diamond showcases the beauty of the round brilliant cut. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Col, Inc.

Turning Rough Diamonds into Polished Gems

The diamonds recovered have survived a brutal birth and then a rough ride to the earth’s surface. Diamond mining companies must remove a million parts of host rock to find one rough diamond. Workers then sort the rough diamonds into categories based on their size, shape, clarity and color. The mining company might cut a finished diamond out of the rough, or sell it to dealers and manufacturers.

Rough diamonds are often shipped to cutting centers in India, Israel, New York, Antwerp, China and Thailand. Highly skilled diamond cutters often use the latest technology, such as lasers, to transform the piece of rough into a highly polished faceted diamond. Most finished diamonds are sent to grading laboratories to determine their quality based on the GIA 4Cs standard: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. Every diamond will have unique qualities: no two will be identical.

A diamond cutter at Diacore Botswana examines the initial facets made on a fancy yellow diamond. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Diamond Treatments

Some manufacturers may try to alter the color or clarity of a diamond to make it more appealing and marketable. The methods used to alter color range from crude ones like coloring girdle facets with a permanent marker, to more sophisticated ones like covering facets with an optical thin film, subjecting the diamond to radiation, or exposing it to high pressure, high temperature annealing. The most common clarity enhancement is fracture filling. All of these may improve the appearance of the diamond, but the seller is legally bound by the FTC to disclose that the diamond has been treated.

$A before and after image of a fractured filled diamond.$

This diamond has been fractured filled to make it more attractive. Photo: Shane F. McClure/GIA.

A 1.05 ct diamond owed its apparent Fancy Light brown-pink color to a coating. After the coating was removed by acid cleaning, the diamond was given a color grade of J

This 1.05 ct diamond owed its apparent Fancy Light brown-pink color (left) to a coating. After the coating was removed by acid cleaning, the diamond was given a color grade of J (right). Photo: Jian Xin (Jae) Liao/GIA

Given their timelessness, resilience and durability, is it any wonder so many choose ”real” diamonds as a symbol of love and commitment? If you’re considering a natural diamond for an engagement ring, be sure to ask for a GIA Diamond Grading Report . The report is your proof that the diamond is natural and that its quality is what the seller describes, giving you the important information you need to make your purchase with confidence. And if you opt for a lab-grown diamond, a GIA Synthetic Diamond Grading Report is your assurance that the material is actually diamond and not an imitation.

Have you ever wondered about do-it-yourself tests to determine whether a specific gem is natural, synthetic or something else? Our post, How to Tell if a Diamond is Real, decodes the most common myths about such tests and why they don’t work.

January Birthstone: What You Need to Know About Garnet

January 3, 2017

Lucky you if yours is the January birthstone. A favorite gem of the Victorian era, garnet comes in a palette of beautiful colors. Read on to gain a deeper appreciation for the gem and the knowledge to shop more wisely.

In this post, we’ll cover:
Types of Garnets
Garnet History & Lore
Where Garnets Come From
Qualities to Look for in a Garnet
Garnet Care & Cleaning

January Birthstone: Types of Garnets

Garnet is a group of minerals that have the same crystal structure but slight differences in chemical composition. Five members of this group are commercially important as gems:

Pyrope (purple to orangy red)
Almandine (purple to orangy red)
Spessartine (oranges and yellows)
Grossularite (colorless to yellow, to reddish orange and orangy red, to vibrant green)
Andradite (yellow and yellowish green)

There are also mixtures of these five species, creating even more colors. Variations in trace elements such as iron, manganese, chromium and vanadium produce the kaleidoscopic color range of garnets.

An array of the many colors of garnet, featuring yellow, orange , deep pink, reddish orange, green, and bluish green.

These are some of the many colors of garnet (top row, from left to right): 16.94 carat (ct) yellow garnet, 19.89 ct orange spessartine, 44.28 ct deep pink rhodolite, 16.99 ct reddish orange garnet, and 7.26 ct green tsavorite. Bottom row, left to right: 8.20 ct greenish yellow garnet, 12.36 ct golden yellow garnet, 9.22 ct pink garnet, 14.53 ct light green grossular, and 4.32 ct bluish green garnet. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

Gemologists love garnets for many reasons. For some, it’s the challenge of categorizing new garnet varieties. Others are fascinated by the characteristics of specific varieties. For example, demantoid garnets, the green variety of andradite, may display dramatic horsetail inclusions, which are one of the few internal clarity characteristics that can increase a gem’s value. Gemologists also love demantoid’s dispersion, which is so high that a well-cut gem displays an amazing amount of fire.

Image of horsetail inclusions in a green demantoid.

It’s obvious how horsetail inclusions got their name. Think of them as Mother Nature’s signature in this green demantoid. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA

This 7.00 ct demantoid from Russia shows why some garnets are so coveted. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Pala International

January Birthstone: Garnet History & Lore

Red garnets have a rich history. Necklaces studded with them adorned the pharaohs of ancient Egypt. Signet rings in ancient Rome featured garnet intaglios that were used to stamp the wax that secured important documents. The clergy and nobility of the Middle Ages had a preference for them.

The Smithsonian’s antique pyrope hair comb is one of the most famous pieces of garnet jewelry (pyrope is from the Greek pyrōpos, which means “fiery-eyed”). A large rose-cut garnet sits at the crest, much like a queen serenely surveying her court. The pyrope garnets that decorate this tiara-like jewel came from the historic mines in Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic), and these rich red beauties were extremely popular during the Victorian era (1837-1901), when this piece was fashioned.

Antique pyrope hair comb with a crescendo of red garnet.

A crescendo of red, this antique pyrope hair comb would have made a breathtaking statement when worn. Courtesy: Chip Clark, Smithsonian Institution.

Curious about garnet’s reputed health benefits? Red gems like garnet were thought to be remedies for inflammatory diseases, and to soothe the angry heart. Garnet also was thought to cure diseases of the liver.

18K gold Art Nouveau era pin depicts a dragon or gryphon with a red garnet in its mouth.

This fanciful 18K gold pin depicts a dragon or gryphon with a red garnet in its mouth. It was made during the Art Nouveau era (1890-1914). Photo: Eric Welch/GIA. Courtesy: Jana Miyahira-Smith.

January Birthstone: Where Garnets Come From

Russia and Bohemia were important sources of garnet in the 19th century, when they were prized by the Russian royal family and used by the great jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé (1846 – 1920). Tanzania and Namibia are important present-day sources for garnet. The gem is also found in Myanmar, Brazil, Kenya, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Sri Lanka, among other countries.

The rolling hills of Green Dragon mine in Namibia.

Namibia’s rolling hills are the scenic backdrop to the Green Dragon mine – an important modern source for demantoid garnet. Courtesy: Green Dragon Mine

January Birthstone: Qualities to Look for in a Garnet

Here are some helpful tips on selecting a beautiful garnet:

Clarity: Garnet clarity depends on its type. The red garnets almandine, pyrope and rhodolite (a pyrope-almandine) typically do not have eye-visible inclusions. Some of the orange garnets, like spessartine and hessonite (a variety of grossularite), often have eye-visible inclusions. You can use this information to rule out particular gems. For example, you might not want to purchase red garnets that have eye-visible inclusions.
Cut: Many garnets are cut into standard shapes and sizes for easy setting into jewelry. This is especially true of many red garnets. Expensive garnets like fine-quality tsavorite (a variety of grossularite) are cut into shapes and cutting styles that allow more of the weight to be retained from the rough.
Demantoid is often cut to allow the best possible display of its fire. Garnets are also popular for designer cuts and carvings. Red garnets are classic materials for cutting into cabochons and beads. They are commonly found to have high clarity and to be very transparent.
Carat Weight: Garnets can be found in all sizes and weights. Some garnets, like demantoid and tsavorite, are more commonly found as small crystals, so their value goes up significantly with size. Other garnets, like almandine, occur as larger crystals, so there’s no dramatic rise in value as size increases.

Most garnets are more affordable than diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. This means you should be able to get a larger gem for the same price.

A 6.22 ct spessartine necklace is encircled with 0.40 ct of round diamonds set in platinum and 18K rose gold.

A 6.22 ct spessartine flaunts its beauty in this necklace. Encircling the fiery orange garnet are some 0.40 ct of round diamonds set in platinum and 18K rose gold. Courtesy: Omi Privé

January Birthstone: Garnet Care & Cleaning

The different types of garnet range between 6.5 and 7.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness. This means that garnets are more susceptible to damage than rubies, sapphires and diamonds. So while not all garnets are good candidates far daily wear in a ring, they are ideal for earrings, brooches and pendants.

Give thought to where you store garnet jewelry in your jewelry case. If you let it rub against harder gems–again, think diamonds, rubies and sapphires–it can be scratched.

Garnets might rarely be treated by fracture filling, which is a method of concealing surface-reaching breaks in the gem by filling them with a glass-like substance. Their comparative affordability may be a reason why garnets are infrequently treated. Regardless, warm soapy water is always safe for cleaning garnets. Ultrasonic cleaners are usually safe, except for stones that have fractures or have been fracture-filled. Steam cleaning is not recommended.

A 5.55 ct oval tsavorite garnet ring, with two fancy yellow diamonds weighing a total of 0.71 ct, and 136 round diamonds weighing 1.02 ct total weight, set in platinum.

This award-winning ring by Omi Privé may just take your breath away. It features a 5.55 ct oval tsavorite garnet, two fancy yellow diamonds weighing a total of 0.71 ct, and 136 round diamonds weighing 1.02 ct total weight, set in platinum. Courtesy: Omi Privé

Whether you’re shopping for the January birthstone, or a gem to celebrate your 2^nd wedding anniversary, be sure to download our Garnet Buying Guide. It has the essential tips you need to find the perfect garnet. Take it with you, and shop with confidence.

What Are Simulated Diamonds?

December 20, 2016

Simulated diamonds — or diamond simulants — may look like diamonds, but they don’t have the same chemical, physical and optical properties. If you’re shopping for a diamond imitation, make sure you know the unique characteristics of the stone you are getting.
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Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry: What are Synthetic Diamonds?

December 13, 2016

Synthetic diamonds are grown in laboratories and have essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure and physical properties as natural diamonds. They’re real diamonds and not ‘fakes,’ but they are not the same as natural diamonds.
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How to Buy Diamonds Online: Five Non-Negotiable Rules

November 15, 2016

When it comes to buying diamonds and diamond jewelry online, consumers face a dizzying array of choices in terms of quality, styles and price points. And they also face the uncertainties of buying something sight-unseen. So how can you protect yourself? How safe is it to buy diamonds online? (more…)

Moonstone: A Gem to Celebrate the Moon

October 18, 2016

According to Hindu mythology, moonstone is made of moonbeams! And it’s easy to see why so many cultures also associate the gem with moonlight. Read on to learn all about this remarkable gem, including what gives moonstone its other-worldly glow. (more…)

Black Diamonds: What You Need to Know

October 11, 2016

From cast-asides to starring roles, black diamonds have taken quite a journey. They’re even vying for position as center stones in engagement rings! But it pays to look beyond their unique appearance to learn more about this enigmatic gem. (more…)

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