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If you had to pick one December birthstone, which would it be: tanzanite, turquoise or zircon? From the blue to bluish purple of tanzanite, to the intense blue and green of turquoise, to the rainbow varieties of zircon, there’s a color for you. We help you pick one.
In this blog, we cover:
Tanzanite: The Newest December Birthstone
Gemological properties of tanzanite
Tanzanite history & lore
Where tanzanite comes from
Qualities to look for in tanzanite
Tanzanite treatments, care & cleaning
Turquoise: The Historic December Birthstone
Gemological properties of turquoise
Turquoise history and lore
Where turquoise comes from
Qualities to look for in turquoise
Turquoise treatments, care & cleaning
Zircon: The Colorful December Birthstone
Gemological properties of zircon
Zircon history & lore
Where zircon comes from
Qualities to look for in zircon
Zircon treatments, care & cleaning
A trilliant cut tanzanite with an exceptional violetish blue color captivates as the December birthstone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA
Tanzanite is the blue to violet to bluish purple variety of the mineral zoisite. This December birthstone is mined commercially in only one area of the world — the Merelani Hills of Tanzania — from where it gets its name.
Tanzanite’s appearance is influenced greatly by its pleochroism – the different colors some gemstones show when viewed from different directions. Tanzanite can be violetish blue or deep blue – similar to a sapphire color – or much more purplish. Often, both the violetish blue and purple are readily visible in a fashioned stone when it is gently rocked and tilted. This December birthstone is rather fragile, ranking 6 to 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness; a diamond is a 10. The scale is exponential, meaning that a diamond is many times harder than tanzanite. Tanzanite’s toughness (the ability of a gem material to resist breaking, chipping or cracking) is fair to poor because it has one direction of cleavage (the tendency of a crystalline mineral to break along atomic planes) and is sensitive to sudden temperature changes.
Gemologists love tanzanite because it shows different colors when viewed from different directions.
The vault of the evening sky and a field of stars is conjured by this 5.59 carat (ct) oval tanzanite contrasted with 28 channel set tapered baguettes and 12 round brilliant cut diamonds. Courtesy: EraGem.com
Tanzanite may be a relative newcomer to the world of colored stones, but it was one of the most exciting gem discoveries of the 20th century. Blue stones emerging from Tanzania were identified as the mineral zoisite in 1962 by Polish expatriate George Kruchluk. Not until 1967, though, did prospector Manuel D’Souza — with the help of a Masai tribesman — locate the primary source: the Merelani Hills. D’Souza filed four mining claims. Word spread and 90 more claims were quickly registered – even though at the time there was some confusion as to the identity of the gem material.
Tiffany & Co. believed that tanzanite had international appeal and became its main distributor. In 1968, Tiffany launched a major advertising campaign to promote it. With its vivid colors, high clarity and potential for large cut stones, tanzanite quickly became a sensation. Today, it is not only a December birthstone, but it is also the gem for the 24th wedding anniversary.
Grass-covered hillsides, scrub brush, rocky soil and an occasional tree form the landscape of the Merelani Hills. In the major mechanized operations there, thousands of workers recover tanzanite from mines dug over a hundred meters deep into the earth. North of the mines tower the snow-covered slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro.
Peeking out from the clouds is the domed summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. Tanzanite is mined in its shadow. Photo: Eric Welch/GIA
Color: The most prized color in tanzanite is a pure blue similar to fine sapphire or an intense violet-blue. Tanzanite with a bluish purple body color is also popular, but less valuable. In any hue, pale colors are less prized than saturated ones.
Be mesmerized by the rich color of this 4.91 ct tanzanite, which mimics the deep blue of fine sapphire, and its regal frame of diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Clarity: Tanzanite is usually free of eye-visible inclusions. If any inclusions are present – especially those that pose a durability problem, such as fractures – they typically lower the value.
Cut: Tanzanite is available in a wide range of shapes, but cushion and oval cuts are more common. Because of its pleochroism, cutting direction determines the gem’s overall face-up color. Cutting a tanzanite to emphasize the bluish purple color usually wastes less rough than cutting it to get a pure blue or violetish blue color. The cutter has to make a choice between a smaller top-color gem and a larger bluish purple one.
Carat Weight: Fine tanzanite with a strong, deep color can be found in pieces weighing 5.00 carats or more. Smaller sizes in less saturated colors are commonly seen in mass market jewelry.
Some 17.67 carats of tanzanite blossom in Sir Zoltan David’s magical “Flowerfly” necklace. The piece won the Tanzanite Foundation’s “Be Born to Tanzanite” Competition in 2007. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Zoltan David
Tanzanite is stable under normal wearing conditions, which means it’s resistant to the effects of normal heat, light and common chemicals. Still, the December birthstone may crack if exposed to very high temperatures or sudden temperature changes. It can be attacked by hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acids.
Warm, soapy water is always the best way to clean this December birthstone. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are never recommended for tanzanite.
Untreated, tanzanite is typically brown. Tanzanite is routinely heat treated to modify its color to a predominantly blue to bluish purple. The treatment is stable with no additional durability concerns.
A shoreline of diamonds surround an ocean of turquoise in this captivating ring. Courtesy: Arya Esha
Turquoise is found in only a few places on Earth: dry and barren regions where acidic, copper-rich groundwater seeps downward through deeply altered or broken rocks where it reacts with minerals that contain phosphorus and aluminum. The result of this process is a porous, semitranslucent-to-opaque hydrous phosphate of copper and aluminum.
This December birthstone owes its texture to its structure and composition. Turquoise is an aggregate of microscopic crystals that form a solid mass. If the crystals are packed closely together, the material is less porous, so it has a finer texture. Fine-textured turquoise has an attractive, waxy luster when it’s polished. Turquoise with a less-dense crystal structure has higher porosity and a coarser texture, resulting in a duller luster when it’s polished.
Porosity and texture don’t just affect appearance: They also affect the durability of turquoise. This December birthstone is fairly soft—it ranks 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale of hardness. Turquoise with a coarse texture might have poor toughness, too, so it fractures easily. Samples with finer texture have fair to good toughness.
Gemologists love this December birthstone because turquoise often contains matrix: spiderweb-like veins that provide evidence of the rock in which it formed. They also like how turquoise is colored by copper, which creates some of the most vivid blues and greens in the gem kingdom.
Whether opaque, semitranslucent or checkered with spiderweb-like veins, turquoise enchants. Composite photo: Eric Welch, Robert Weldon, Terri Weimer/GIA, Dr. Edward J. Gübelin collection. Courtesy (far right): Barlow’s
Turquoise has been cherished for millennia. The pharaohs and other rulers of ancient Egypt adorned themselves with it. Chinese artisans carved it more than 3,000 years ago.
This December birthstone was thought to possess many beneficial powers, like guaranteeing health and good fortune. From the 13th century on, it was believed to protect the wearer from falling (especially off horses), and would break into several pieces at the approach of disaster. Hindu mystics maintained that seeing a turquoise after beholding the new moon ensured fantastic wealth.
Turquoise played an important role in the lives of Native Americans. The Apache thought turquoise could be found by following a rainbow to its end. They also believed that attaching the December birthstone to a bow or firearm made one’s aim more accurate. The Pueblo maintained that turquoise got its color from the sky, while the Hopi thought the gem was produced by lizards scurrying over the earth.
An artisan from the Zuni tribe made this turquoise brooch. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Turquoise adorns the funerary mask of King Tut, who ruled Egypt more than 3,000 years ago. It also appears in jewelry belonging to more modern royalty, such as the Jordan turquoise demi-parure (turquoise, diamond and sapphire necklace and earrings) in the collection of Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II. Wallace Simpson (1896-1986), Duchess of Windsor, wore a famous amethyst and turquoise necklace made by Cartier. Turquoise is also the gem of the 11th wedding anniversary.
A dazzling display of color, Cartier’s bib necklace for the Duchess of Windsor features a sea of turquoise cabochons and faceted amethyst. Courtesy: N. Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier
Turquoise has been mined in the Nishapur district of Iran for more than 1,000 years. The even-colored, intense blue turquoise from this region is dubbed “robin’s egg blue,” “sky blue” and “Persian blue.” Trade professionals now use these terms to describe turquoise of this color – regardless of the source.
This is the view on the way to Nishapur. Courtesy: Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Collection
Although New Mexico was the largest producer of turquoise in the U.S. until the 1920s, today most of the U.S. production of this December birthstone comes from Arizona and Nevada. Mines have evocative names like Dry Creek, Easter Blue, Emerald Valley and Fox. The Kingman mine in Arizona is a historically important source that is known for producing intense blue turquoise. Now closed to turquoise mining, the Sleeping Beauty mine was a prolific producer for more than four decades.
The intense blue turquoise beads in this necklace came from Arizona’s Sleeping Beauty mine. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Somewhere In The Rainbow
China is now the world’s largest producer of fine turquoise. Hubei Province, in central China, is the source of most of the gem-quality turquoise currently being mined there.
Color: The color of turquoise usually ranges from light to medium blue or greenish blue. It’s often mottled, and sometimes it has dark splotches. It might also have veins of matrix running through it.
The most-prized turquoise color is an even, intense, medium blue, with no matrix and the ability to take a good polish. But some consumers prefer a greenish blue, and some contemporary designers seek turquoise referred to as “avocado” and “lime green.”
Clarity: Turquoise can be semitranslucent to opaque. Semitranslucent stones are preferred.
Note the even color in the clusters of turquoise dangling from gold chains in this one-of-a-kind piece. Courtesy: Denise James
Cut: Turquoise is most often fashioned as cabochons. The smoothly rounded dome shape sets off turquoise’s color, texture and any matrix beautifully. In addition, manufacturers and artisans fashion turquoise rough into round or oblong beads for necklaces, and into small, flat pieces that are popular as jewelry inlays. Other rough material might be tumbled into “nuggets” or polished as free-form shapes that reflect the shape of the original rough. There are also examples of top-color blue turquoise engraved with Persian or Arabic inscriptions that are then inlaid with gold.
Carat Weight: Turquoise is available in a wide range of sizes. All sizes, even very small ones, are used in Native American jewelry, and large pieces have been popular for carvings. For any size, the quality and evenness of the color is the overriding value factor.
Rich blue turquoise surrounded by 24K gold makes these earrings a mesmerizing sight. Courtesy: Lika Behar
A colorless wax or polymer is often used to improve the color and luster of turquoise. Other treatments include applying epoxy to thin turquoise slices to strengthen them, applying coatings of lacquer or epoxy, and filling cavities with imitation pyrite inclusions made of metal-filled epoxy.
It’s safe to clean turquoise jewelry with warm, soapy water, but this December birthstone should never be cleaned with steam or ultrasonic cleaners. Heat or solvents can damage the treated surfaces on some turquoise.
Turquoise is generally stable to light, but high heat can cause discoloration and breakage. Turquoise can be damaged by acids, and it can be discolored by certain chemicals, cosmetics and even skin oils or perspiration.
A 19.76 ct orangy brown zircon is ringed by 0.51 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Zircon comes in a wide and varied palette of yellow, green, red, orange, brown and blue hues, making it a favorite among collectors and knowledgeable consumers. This December birthstone is 6 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness.
Zircon comes in a wide array of attractive colors. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA, Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Collection.
Colorless zircon is known for its brilliance and flashes of multicolored light, called fire. These two zircon properties are close enough to the properties of diamond to account for centuries of confusion between the two gems.
This 11.41 ct oval blue zircon with its diamond halo is like a lake that invites the viewer to peer into infinity. The tsavorite garnet side stones are leafy touches to the icy scene. Courtesy: Omi Privé
Gemologists love zircon because its radioactive trace elements are a geologic clock that tells us about the early Earth. This December birthstone also has very high luster, high refractive indices (the measure of the extent to which light is bent as it leaves a gemstone at an angle other than perpendicular to the surface) and strong dispersion, which is responsible for the brilliance and rainbow flashes of fire.
The origins of the word zircon have elicited colorful debate. Some scholars believe it comes from the Arabic word zarkun, meaning “cinnabar” or “vermilion.” Others think the source is the Persian word zargun, or “gold colored.” Considering the color range for this December Birthstone, either derivation seems possible.
Zircon comes with pleasing lore. In the Middle Ages, it was thought to lull one into a deep sleep and scare off evil spirits. In the Hindu religion, zircon alternates with hessonite garnet as one of the nine gems of the navaratna. When worn together, the nine gems protect the wearer and bring good health, wealth and wisdom.
Victorians had a fondness for blue zircon. Fine specimens can be found in English estate jewelry from the 1880s.
Regal rings like this show why blue zircon is a popular gem. Courtesy: LeVian
Sri Lanka’s wealth of gems is legendary: Sapphire in various colors, ruby, alexandrite, spinel, tourmaline, moonstone and quartz are some of the gem minerals unearthed there. So is zircon. Elahera, a region in central Sri Lanka, is one of the country’s most productive areas. Mountains, jungles and restless streams make for a dramatic landscape.
An artisanal miner searches for gems in the Elahera region of Sri Lanka. Photo: Vincent Pardieu/GIA
Australia’s Harts Range is known for producing zircons in yellow-brown, orangy brown, pink and purple. Go there and you’ll see open savannahs, dry stream beds and low-lying hills that meet the horizon. Zircon Hill is where the gem is mined. The nearby city of Alice Springs is known for its outback culture, aboriginal art and quirky sporting events like a regatta race held in a dry river bed.
Zircon is often located near sapphire sources. Countries where the two overlap include Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Vietnam, Cambodia and Australia.
Color: Some zircons display warm autumnal earth tones such as yellowish and reddish brown. Red and green zircons have market value as collectors’ stones, and cat’s-eye zircons occasionally appear on the market. There are also colorless zircons.
A brisk autumn day, a fireplace and apple cider would be the perfect backdrop for this ring, which features a 7.96 ct zircon. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Richard Krementz Gemstones
Although collectors clearly love zircon’s variety of colors, consumers seem most enamored of just one hue: blue. Gem dealers report that at least 80 percent of the zircons they sell are blue. Because they’re in greater demand, blue zircons usually command higher prices than any of the other varieties.
A blue zircon takes center stage in the “Reine de Glace” pendant designed by Lisa Krikawa. Courtesy: Krikawa Jewelry Designs. Blue zircon by John Dyer & Co.
Clarity: Zircons are relatively free of inclusions. But many untreated zircons have a cloudy or smoky appearance that, if extreme, can be a negative factor with buyers. In Victorian times, this smokiness made zircon a popular gem for mourning jewelry. Today, most faceted zircon is free of inclusions that are visible to the unaided eye. Eye-visible inclusions cause a drop in zircon value. Rarely, zircon might contain long, parallel inclusions that create a cat’s-eye effect when the stone is cut as a cabochon.
Cut: It’s a challenge to cut zircon because the gem is brittle. Cutters usually fashion zircon in the brilliant style to take advantage of its brilliance and fire. Zircon can also be found in step cuts, which have rows of parallel facets, and mixed cuts, which are a combination of brilliant and step-cut facets.
A richly colored 7.23 ct zircon set in an ornate 18K gold ring looks like it belongs on the finger of European royalty. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Carat Weight: The supply of this December birthstone is generally limited, and typical zircon sizes depend on color. Blue or green stones normally range from one carat to 10 carats, with yellows and oranges up to around five carats. Reds and purples are usually smaller.
Warm, soapy water is recommended for cleaning zircon. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are not recommended for this December birthstone.
Zircon is commonly heat treated to produce blue and colorless varieties, as well as orange, yellow and red. The gem is generally stable when exposed to light, but some heat-treated stones might revert to their original colors (usually light brown) after prolonged exposure to bright light. Exposure to heat can alter the color of some zircon. Zircon is stable when exposed to chemicals.
Because zircon tends to abrade, it is best to avoid wearing it in rough conditions, such as while gardening, playing sports or doing dishes.
The color of the 14.48 ct zircon in this ring evokes a forest … fields … grassy expanses. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Ready to go shopping for the December birthstone? Be sure to take our Tanzanite Buying Guide and Turquoise Buying Guide with you when you go!
Comparing loose diamonds for an engagement ring? Don’t be dismayed by the dizzying array of choices. The important thing is understanding how to compare loose diamonds. Here are six easy steps to help you pick a diamond that’s beautiful and a smart purchase.
Those with a November birthstone have two beautiful options to choose from: topaz and citrine. Topaz comes in a rainbow of colors; citrine is known for its charming yellow and orange hues. The two gems give you countless options. Your challenge will be deciding which one to pick. We offer help.
In this post, we cover
Gemological properties of topaz
Topaz history & lore
Where topaz comes from
Qualities to look for in topaz
Topaz treatments, care & cleaning
Gemological properties of citrine
Citrine history & lore
Where citrine comes from
Qualities to look for in citrine
Citrine treatments, care & cleaning
The November birthstone topaz has an exceptionally wide color range that, in addition to brown, includes various tones and saturations of blue, green, yellow, orange, red, pink and purple. Colorless topaz is plentiful, and is often treated to give it a blue color.
Pictured here are some of the many colors of topaz. From left to right: a 9.21 carat (ct) colorless emerald cut from Nigeria; a 15.01 ct light blue emerald cut from Brazil; an 18.41 ct purplish pink emerald cut from Pakistan; and a 12.54 ct orange-red emerald cut from Brazil. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA
Color varieties of the November birthstone are often identified simply by hue name—blue topaz, pink topaz and so forth—but there are also a couple of special trade names. Imperial topaz is typically a medium reddish orange to orange-red though some dealers, especially those in Brazil, apply the term to yellow, pink and red topaz as well. The reddish pleochroic color (pleochroism is the display of different body colors from different viewing directions) of Imperial topaz often appears at the ends of fashioned gems–like pears and ovals–that have an otherwise yellow-to-orange body color. Red is one of the most sought-after (and least available) topaz colors.
Sherry topaz—named after sherry wine—is a yellowish brown or brownish yellow to orange. Stones in this color range are often called precious topaz to help distinguish them from the similarly colored but less expensive citrine and smoky quartz.
Topaz is an 8 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness. It’s not very tough, so a hard blow might split it, and extreme pressure or sharp temperature changes might cause it to break. The November birthstone is best set in a protective mounting like a bezel or used in pieces that aren’t subjected to heavy wear, like pendants and pins.
A pink topaz set in a diamond and platinum butterfly brooch is a delightful sight. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Richard Krementz Gemstones
Gemologists love topaz because it comes in some of the gem world’s largest crystals: The largest are measured in kilos, not carats. They also love the fact that faceted topaz takes such a high polish and is slightly slippery to the touch.
Topaz was long thought to have many benefits. The ancient Greeks believed that topaz gave them strength. From the 1300s to the 1600s, Europeans thought it could thwart magic spells and dispel anger. The November birthstone was also believed to have curative powers. To treat “dimness of vision,” 12th century abbess St. Hildegard recommended placing topaz in wine for three days and then rubbing the moistened topaz on the patient’s eyes.
Imperial topaz has aristocratic cachet. It is commonly believed that the name originated with the Russian royal family’s insistence on keeping the finest colors of this gem, which was mined in Russia’s Ural Mountains, exclusively for their use. An alternate explanation, especially popular in Brazil, is that it dates from an 1881 visit by Brazilian Emperor Pedro II to Ouro Preto—the town closest to Brazil’s most productive topaz mines–and the gift of a reddish topaz to him. Regardless of the source of the designation, there is no question all believed this beautiful gem was fit for a king.
Want a gem with an aristocratic cachet? Imperial topaz might be the one for you. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA
Blue topaz is the gem of the fourth wedding anniversary, and Imperial topaz is the gem of the 23rd wedding anniversary.
The artistic carving of this 38.56 ct blue topaz intensifies the color. Photo: Lydia Dyer. Courtesy: John Dyer & Co.
Minas Gerais, a state in Brazil, is one of the most important sources for high-quality topaz. Yellow to orange, red, pink, violet and blends of red with orange or purple are some of the colors unearthed here. The nearby town of Ouro Preto is a fitting companion. In this UNESCO world heritage site, majestic colonial churches checker the skyline and quaint cobblestone streets crisscross the city.
Topaz mined from the Ouro Preto region of Minas Gerais, Brazil comes in a lovely range of hues, as displayed in this necklace set with a 24.13 ct fancy-cut topaz and the accompanying 44.11, 71.21 and 66.66 ct loose stones. Photo: GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt. Courtesy: Amsterdam Sauer Co.
Northwestern Pakistan is known for producing pink topaz. Ghundao Hill, close to the small town of Katlang, has been mined since 1972. The most sought-after shade of pink topaz from Katlang has a tinge of violet, which some in the gem trade call cyclamen pink. But even at Ghundao Hill, only rarely is fine pink topaz found.
Ghundao Hill’s setting is quite picturesque: A valley carpeted in green starts at the base. The towering Hindu Kush Mountains rise in the distance. Photo: Dr. Edward J. Gübelin/GIA
Other topaz sources include Namibia, on the western coast of southern Africa, and the gem-rich island of Madagascar. Today, some topaz is also found in the historic Russian localities and elsewhere including, Africa, China, India, Myanmar, Sri Lanka and Vietnam, as well as the United States and Mexico.
Color: Blue topaz and colorless topaz are widely available and very affordable. Most of the blue topaz on the market today has been color treated, as described in the next section. Red and pink topaz varieties are rare, highly cherished and will carry a significantly higher price tag per carat. Imperial topaz is also highly prized.
A royal enchantment: This 11.11 ct Imperial topaz is accented with 0.29 carats of rubies and 0.75 carats of diamonds, all set in rose gold. Courtesy: Omi Privé
Clarity: Faceted blue topaz is almost always free of eye-visible inclusions. Topaz in colors that are not as plentiful may be included. Depending on the rarity of the color, inclusions may not have a significant effect on value.
Cut: Topaz is cut in a wide variety of shapes and styles, including emerald, cushion, oval, pear, round, triangular, marquise and fantasy cuts.
Carat weight: If the color of the topaz is considered rare, the per-carat price may rise dramatically as size increases.
This 1,002 ct fantasy cut topaz is a work of art. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA
To clean this November birthstone, do not use steam cleaning or ultrasonic cleaners to clean topaz: Warm, soapy water works best.
Topaz is often treated. Since naturally colored blue topaz is extremely rare, colorless topaz is often processed with irradiation followed, in some cases, by heating to turn it various shades of blue. The three irradiation techniques used are exposure to gamma rays in a cobalt irradiator, bombardment with electrons in an accelerator and bombardment with neutrons in a nuclear reactor. Gems that are treated in an accelerator or nuclear reactor may become radioactive, but the U.S. National Regulatory Commission (NRC) does not allow release of such stones into the trade until radioactivity levels fall below certain limits. The NRC advises that “any dose from these gems would be extremely small” and would continue to go down. Dealers use terms like “London blue,” “Swiss blue,” “super blue” and “maxi blue” to describe darker blues, and “sky blue” for paler hues. In general, darker blues cost slightly more than lighter hues, but both are typically affordable.
This blue topaz has undergone irradiation to achieve this color result often referred to as “Mystic Topaz” or “Caribbean Topaz” by the trade. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA
Also common, is the heating of yellow to reddish brown topaz to create pink gems. Both irradiation and heat treatment are permanent under normal conditions of wear and care. For the most part, they are undetectable.
High heat or sudden temperature changes can cause internal breaks in topaz. The gem’s color is generally stable to light, but prolonged exposure to heat or sunlight might cause fading in yellow-to-brown, reddish brown or dark brown gems. Topaz may be affected slightly by some chemicals.
In addition to irradiation and heat treatment, colorless topaz is sometimes coated with a thin metallic film to change the color or produce a fanciful iridescent effect. The coating can resist daily wear and tear, but abrasive cleaners or buffing wheels will remove it. Only a mild soap solution should be used to clean a topaz treated in this manner.
Citrine is the transparent pale yellow to brownish orange variety of quartz. The finest citrine color is a saturated yellow to reddish orange free of brownish tints. Its color comes from traces of iron. However, this November birthstone is actually rare in nature: Most citrine on the market is the result of heat treating amethyst.
Citrine’s attractive color, plus the durability and affordability it shares with most other quartzes, makes it the top-selling yellow-to-orange gem. Gemologists love this November birthstone because it has a modest price tag, and the price per carat does not rise dramatically for larger sizes.
The Jolie Citrine Necklace, once owned by American actress Angelina Jolie and now part of the National Gem Collection at the Smithsonian Institution, features 64 graduated bezel-set cushion cut citrines, highlighted by a 177.11 ct pear shaped citrine drop. Courtesy: RP Studio
This November birthstone is a variety of quartz, which has been used in jewelry for thousands of years. The ancient Greeks carved rock crystal ornaments that glistened like permafrost. Roman pontiffs wore rings set with massive purple amethysts and citrine has been reported in Roman jewelry. It was particularly popular in colorful Scottish jewelry from the Victorian era. Citrine, believed to derive from the French word for lemon (citron), is given for the thirteenth wedding anniversary.
A fantasy cut unleashes the fire within this 43.49 ct citrine. Photo: Priscilla Dyer. Courtesy: John Dyer & Co.
The top sources for natural citrine are Bolivia, Spain, Madagascar, Mexico and Uruguay. Amethyst that’s typically heat treated to a citrine color is mined mostly in Brazil.
These citrine and diamond butterfly earrings remind us of the beauty surrounding the Anahí mine in Bolivia. Photo: C. D. Mengason/GIA. Gift of Denoir
Deep in the world’s largest freshwater wetland lies Bolivia’s Anahí mine, an important source for natural, unheated citrine. Fields of wild flowers, brightly plumed birds, kaleidoscopes of butterflies, Howler monkeys and jaguars are some of the actors on this vast stage. The story of the mine is worthy of the setting. Discovered by a Spanish conquistador in the 1600s, it was given to him as dowry when he married Anahí, a princess from the Ayoreos tribe of Paraguay. The mine was lost for three centuries, until it was rediscovered in the 1960s.
Cradled between the two mountains lies the Anahí mine in Bolivia. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA
The Anahí mine produces a unique combination of amethyst and citrine in the same crystal; when the two colors appear together in a fashioned gem, it is known as ametrine. The citrine produced at the Anahí mine typically ranges from orange-yellow to brownish/greenish yellow.
The Anahí mine produces citrine, amethyst and ametrine gems in a broad range of hues. Photo: GIA & Tino Hammid
Like an ember, citrine glows in this ring. Courtesy: Arya Esha
Citrine can be safely cleaned with warm, soapy water. While it is usually okay to clean citrine in an ultrasonic machine, steam cleaning is risky since citrine should not be subjected to heat.
As noted above, most of the citrine on the market is the result of heat treatment, which causes some amethyst to change color from an undesirable pale violet to an attractive yellow. In some cases, a darker starting material is used, as the amethyst’s original hue can determine the richness of the resulting citrine’s yellow color.
Spring Bouquet, a pendant made for Rio Tinto’s “Diamonds with a Story” marketing campaign, glows with a 15 ct citrine encircled by 0.30 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: Matthew Campbell Laurenza
Love topaz? Craving citrine? You’ll find our Topaz Buying Guide and Citrine Buying Guide to be extremely helpful.
Selecting the right metal for your engagement ring setting is just as important as selecting the right diamond. The metal will not only define the ring’s style, but it can also play a big role in your diamond’s color appearance. Here’s how to choose wisely.
A gold engagement ring allows the solitaire diamond to be the star of the show. Diamond melee along the ring’s shank play a supporting role, adding even more sparkle to the overall effect. Courtesy: Stuller Inc.
Gold, platinum and silver are the metals most often used in jewelry. Their allure, workability and durability make gold and platinum excellent choices for an engagement ring. For many people, choosing an engagement ring setting starts with a color and style preference. Some prefer the warmth of yellow gold or rose gold engagement rings; others opt for the coolness and classicism of white metals such as platinum or white gold for their engagement rings. Yet few people consider the effect that engagement ring’s metal color has on the most important feature of an engagement ring – the center stone, which is often a diamond.
An 18K rose gold band brings warmth to this 5.31 carat (ct) oval diamond. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds
When choosing an engagement ring setting in white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, platinum or silver, consider these important things:
Your diamond’s color. Although many people think of gem-quality diamonds as colorless, truly colorless diamonds are actually very rare. Most diamonds used in jewelry and diamond engagement rings are nearly colorless with hints of yellow, brown or gray. In picking an engagement ring in yellow gold, white gold or other metal for your ring setting, you’ll need to know where your diamond is on the GIA D-to-Z Color Scale.
The fact that diamonds are highly reflective. The many facets of a standard round brilliant diamond and other diamond shapes act like tiny mirrors reflecting their surroundings, including the color of the band and the prongs holding the gem.
Knowing this, you can use the color of the metal in your engagement ring to highlight your diamond’s color or create a more harmonious appearance.
An 18K gold band complements the hint of yellow in this 1.20 ct N color emerald cut diamond for a very harmonious look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Once you’ve settled on whether you want your engagement ring design to highlight the main diamond or create a sense of harmony between the setting and the center stone, you’ll have many options to choose from. Remember, your jeweler is your best resource. She or he will understand the subtle nuances of diamond color and can make the best metal color recommendations to achieve the look you’re going for. Also, the best way to see a metal’s effect on diamond color appearance is to see the diamond and the engagement ring setting in person. In the meantime, though, here are some tried and true ideas to get you thinking.
All things being equal for diamonds on the D-to-Z scale, the less color the stone has the more valuable it is. Diamonds graded D-E-F on the GIA color scale are considered colorless, and a white metal—platinum or white-gold engagement ring setting is the ideal choice to emphasize their beauty. Diamonds graded G through J are in the near-colorless range, with an almost imperceptible hint of yellow. They, too, are good candidates for a platinum or white gold ring setting.
If you choose another color of metal or opt for a two-tone ring to create contrast, the prongs that hold the diamond should be a white metal like white gold or platinum. Yellow gold prongs could impart some yellow color to the diamond, making your colorless or near-colorless stone look like it has a different color grade.
A platinum band heightens the icy beauty of this 8.03 ct D color marquise diamond with 0.72 carats of colorless baguettes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Like the white look, but want some contrast? This diamond ring features white diamond melee in an 18K rose gold halo, which adds visual richness to the design. Courtesy: PE Jay Creations
A diamond with a color grade of M or lower will likely have a noticeable yellow tint. A yellow gold band will accentuate the yellow in the diamond; a white band might make the diamond appear more colorless. Diamonds with a color grade of K or L are in something of a middle zone; you can use either yellow gold or white metal bands such as platinum or white gold, depending on the effect you want for your engagement ring setting.
The diamond center stone in this ring is a K color. A gold band brings out the hint of yellow, giving the diamond a softer appearance. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com
A fanciful platinum setting with 5.05 carats of white diamond melee provides a pleasing contrast with the 11.04 ct yellowish diamond center stone. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: MUNNU The Gem Palace
Diamonds that fall outside the D-to-Z color range are called “fancy colors.” Selecting the right metal to accentuate these unique stones is key to delivering the radiance and allure of each engagement ring. Naturally occurring colors include blue, brown, pink, yellow and green. These diamonds are evaluated less for brilliance or fire and more for color intensity. Depending on the hue, tone and saturation of the color, the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System assigns colored diamonds one of these color grades: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Dark and Fancy Deep. Generally, Fancy Vivid and Fancy Deep command the highest prices.
Brown diamonds were once deemed unsuitable for jewelry. Then marketers in the 1980s gave them tantalizing names like champagne, cognac and chocolate, and brown diamonds developed their own niche.
Like yellowish diamonds, brown diamonds can be placed on a white gold or platinum engagement ring setting to highlight their color, or they can be placed in a yellow gold or rose gold engagement ring setting to complement their color. Even the metal used for prongs can either contrast or complement the diamond in the center.
A 0.38 ct brown diamond pops because it is set in an 18K white gold band and surrounded by a double halo of 0.39 carats of white diamond melee. White prongs accentuate the look. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Neil Lane designed this ring for actress, model and Paralympic medalist Amy Purdy. A brown cushion cut diamond is the center stone. A yellow gold band creates a soft backdrop, while platinum prongs and white diamond side stones provide an arresting contrast. Courtesy: Neil Lane
Yellow diamonds were relatively rare until the discovery in the late 1860s of quantities of what today would be considered fancy yellows at several locations in South Africa. They are now found around the world. The presence of nitrogen gives them their color.
A platinum or white gold engagement ring can highlight the color of a yellow diamond, while a yellow gold ring will harmonize with the color of the yellow diamond.
A double halo of 0.94 carats of white diamonds is the frosty backdrop for a 1.02 ct yellow diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
The combination of a 7.02 ct fancy yellow heart shaped diamond, 1.08 carats of yellow diamonds in the halo and along the shank and an 18K yellow gold band creates an enchanting engagement ring setting. Courtesy: Norman Silverman
Pink diamonds are exceedingly rare. Historically, they have been found in Brazil’s alluvial workings and in Indian and African mines. Since the late 1980s, the Argyle mine in Australia has been the most important source of pink diamonds, but even here they are quite rare. According to Rio Tinto Ltd., the owner of the mine, “more than 800 million carats of rough diamonds have been produced from the Argyle Diamond Mine. Total carats of pink rough: less than 1% of total production.” Not surprisingly, pink diamonds are extremely expensive.
Since the color of pink diamonds is so prized, it is rare to see them set in a yellow gold engagement ring setting. A pink diamond is the star, and the white metal band is used to highlight its color.
A white metal band and double halo of white diamonds form the elegant frame for this 16.08 ct Fancy Vivid pink diamond. The piece sold for more than $28.5 million at a Christie’s auction in November 2015. Courtesy: Christie’s
Blue diamonds are also extraordinarily rare and very expensive. India is their historic source, and it is believed that the 45.52 ct Hope Diamond, the 31.06 ct Wittelsbach-Graff and other famous blue diamonds originated there. Today, the Premier mine in South Africa, which opened in 1903, is considered the most significant source of blue diamonds. Nevertheless, at the end of the 20th century blue diamonds accounted for less than 0.1% of diamonds found there.
Like pink diamonds, they are almost always set in a platinum, white gold or silver engagement ring setting that highlights their color.
A natural 5.98 ct Fancy Light blue diamond sits in a platinum band. Courtesy: Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada; Gift of Vincent Tovell. Certified by the Canadian Cultural Property Export Review Board under the terms of the Cultural Property Export and Import Act.
A beautiful engagement ring is the product of a number of choices that add up to a stunning creation. Knowing how to protect your diamond engagement ring setting is another important consideration.
Morganite engagement rings are trending – and for good reason. Morganite is a beautiful, durable and a comparatively affordable pink gem. It has also benefited from a lot of buzz. Here’s what you need to know about morganite engagement rings.
In this blog, we’ll cover:
Why is morganite so popular?
What type of gem is morganite?
Where does morganite come from?
Morganite qualities to look for
Adding diamonds to a morganite engagement ring
Setting ideas for morganite engagement rings
Caring for and cleaning a morganite engagement ring
Morganite is a picture of romance in this ring featuring a 4.08 carat (ct) center stone encircled by diamonds that trail down the shank. The 18K rose gold setting accentuates the morganite’s color. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Interest in morganite engagement rings may have started in 2002, when Ben Affleck proposed to Jennifer Lopez with a 6.1 carat (ct) pink diamond. Pink picked up more momentum when Apple introduced its now iconic rose gold iPhone in 2013 and Pantone named “Marsala” — an earthy red hue that morganite compliments beautifully — the 2015 Color of the Year.
Fashion trends aside, pink has long been associated with love, romance, femininity and tenderness – so it’s not surprising that pink gems have an irresistible appeal. The color pink also flatters any skin tone.
The affordability of morganite engagement rings – especially compared to pink diamonds – puts the look within reach of brides-to-be. It is easy to see why morganite engagement rings, especially those with rose gold settings, have become so popular.
All that seems to be missing from this 20.03 ct morganite ring is the bride who will wear it. Decorating the halo and band are 1.07 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Morganite is a delicate pastel pink to purplish pink (“rose”), yellowish pink (“peach”) or orangey pink (“salmon”) variety of beryl, a mineral species that also includes emerald, aquamarine and beryls in other colors. Its color is caused by traces of manganese. Strong hues in morganite are rare, and gems usually have to be fairly large to achieve the finest color.
Morganite is a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness. This makes a morganite engagement ring suitable for everyday wear, although it is not as durable as harder gems like diamond or ruby and sapphire.
A fun piece of lore: Morganite was named to honor American financier and gem enthusiast J. P. Morgan (1837–1913). George Kunz, then Tiffany’s colored stone specialist and a noted gem scholar, proposed the name in 1910 after examining early samples of the beautiful pink beryl from Madagascar.
A 5.94 ct morganite is the star of this ring set in 14K rose gold with 0.70 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
It takes the skilled hands of a lapidary to turn a piece of morganite rough into a gem fit for a morganite engagement ring. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Dave Wilber
Most of the morganite on the market today comes from Minas Gerais, Brazil. Minas Gerais is a gemological treasure chest: emerald, aquamarine, tourmaline, alexandrite, amethyst and topaz are some of the other gems found there.
Afghanistan, Pakistan, Mozambique, Namibia and the United States are also sources of morganite, but for the most part, production is minor and inconsistent. While it is no longer a major producer today, the original Madagascar deposit still sets the standard for the best material.
It’s easy to fall in love with this charming morganite engagement ring. It features a 1.69 ct morganite and 0.08 carats of diamonds decorating the shank. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
As you shop for a morganite engagement ring, keep in mind these tips for picking the perfect gem.
Color: The most prized morganite colors are strong pink, often the result of heat treatment. Untreated material, especially from Brazil, may be a salmon-like orangy pink. Morganite’s color is often pale, increasing in intensity with the size of the stone. Darker colors are usually more desired and thus cost more.
Morganite is almost always heat treated to improve its pink color. Heat drives off the yellow or orange tinge, leaving a purer and more attractive pink. The treatment is not detectable, and the resulting color is stable and won’t fade unless exposed to temperatures over 400°C.
Morganite is often found in large sizes and cut into a variety of shapes. This 10 ct oval morganite makes quite a fashion statement set horizontally in the trendy east-to-west style. The 18K rose gold setting includes four diamond accents in the prongs. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Clarity: Faceted morganite often does not have eye-visible inclusions, though they are more likely to be present in larger sizes. Stones with numerous eye-visible inclusions are usually carved or cut as cabochons. Liquid inclusions (liquid trapped in what were once voids in the gem) and fractures are two types of internal features that might be visible to the naked eye. Liquid inclusions tend to have irregular shapes. A fracture looks like a bright, shiny flat surface. It’s worth mentioning again that faceted morganite usually does not have eye-visible inclusions.
Cut: The shape of a morganite gem should have minimal effect on its beauty. Like a diamond, a morganite engagement ring can be attractive as a round brilliant, emerald cut, marquise or oval. Light-color material might be cut slightly deep to help intensify the color. Morganite is a popular material for unique fantasy cuts and carvings.
Carat weight: Although available (and affordable) in large stones, morganite is often cut in calibrated sizes to fit common jewelry mountings.
A solitaire is said to symbolize love, commitment and fidelity. This round morganite solitaire set in rose gold brings the power of pink to a traditional engagement ring style. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Pear shaped stones help give fingers a longer, slimmer look, and this 5.76 ct morganite ring is sure to flatter almost any hand. The delicate halo of diamonds totaling 0.58 carats adds to its feminine feel. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com
A romantic pairing: A 6.40 ct morganite with 2.45 carats of diamonds that form a halo and cascade down the shank as an enchanting counterpoint. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Now that you know what to look for when picking a beautiful morganite gemstone for your engagement ring, you might want to add a bit of drama to it. Morganite and diamonds form an elegant combination. The brilliance of the diamonds creates a dramatic contrast to the subtle blush of the morganite. Diamonds in a halo setting or flanking morganite as side stones are two can’t-fail choices. Here are a few things to keep in mind when selecting diamonds for your morganite engagement ring:
Placing a diamond on either side of the central gem is another way to add diamonds to a morganite engagement ring. Here, an 8.68 ct morganite is framed by two pear shaped diamonds weighing a total of 0.40 carats. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Morganite works well in virtually all popular engagement ring setting styles. It’s stately enough to hold its own as a solitaire. It looks glorious with a halo (a ring of smaller diamonds placed around the center stone). And it is artfully framed and protected in a bezel setting (a jewelry setting style in which a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place).
Since morganite is a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness, it is more vulnerable to chipping and breakage than a harder gem like a diamond. Because of this, you’ll want to put it in a setting that affords more protection. A bezel setting is an excellent choice, as the metal surrounding the morganite protects the gem from damage. Four- and six-prong settings are also common, but they offer less protection and aren’t an ideal choice for physically active individuals. All options considered, a bezel setting is the safest choice.
An antique frame cradling a magical mirror is a poetic description for this 6.19 ct morganite surrounded by 18K rose gold and 0.22 carats of diamonds. The rose gold setting not only protects the gemstone, but is also reflected in it, adding even more depth to the morganite’s pink hue. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
If you’re looking for an engagement ring setting to complement morganite, consider the metal color and the overall look you’re trying to achieve. For a soft color palette, a rose gold band and prongs will enhance the gem’s pink hues, while yellow gold will bring out any yellow in the stone. Or you can opt to go bolder, by using white metal prongs or band (or both) to contrast with the morganite.
Consider the metal when choosing a setting for your morganite ring. You can use yellow gold to your advantage to bring out the yellow hues in some morganite, as in this morganite and diamond ring. Courtesy: Denise James
Warm, soapy water is always a safe cleaning method for a morganite engagement ring. Cleaning by ultrasonic and steam cleaners is also usually safe, unless the stone has liquid inclusions or fractures. Rarely, morganite is fracture filled – a glass-like substance is used to fill a fracture to make it less visible and to improve the stone’s apparent clarity. These stones should only be cleaned with warm, soapy water.
A morganite engagement ring can be damaged by some acids, including those found in certain cleaning products. Morganite is safe to wear during most everyday activities. However, like all other gemstones, morganite can be damaged, so we recommend that you remove your ring before gardening, cleaning, playing sports or participating in other strenuous activities.
This 12.18 ct pear shaped morganite is framed by a halo of 1.06 carats of pavé diamonds. The white metal setting creates a strong contrast with the gem’s pink hue, making the morganite the star of the show. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Morganite in an engagement ring is sweet, romantic and trendy. It is also a charming choice – an eye-pleasing look that evokes the splendor of love.
Ready for romance? Loretta Castoro’s “Love Doves” ring has a 2 ct round morganite accented with diamonds in the shank. Courtesy: Loretta Castoro Signature Collection
Now that you’re well into your search for a center stone, learn how to select flattering engagement ring styles.
The term 4Cs we know today had its start in the early 1940s, as the brainchild of GIA founder Robert M. Shipley. A former retail jeweler, Shipley was fiercely committed to professionalizing the American jewelry industry. He established an institute (GIA) to provide jewelers with formal training and was a tireless advocate for greater knowledge, ethics and standards when it came to buying and selling gems.
Robert M. Shipley founded the Gemological Institute of America in 1931. Photo: GIA
Shipley developed the 4Cs as a mnemonic device to help his students remember the four factors that characterize a faceted diamond: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. The concept was simple, but revolutionary.
Throughout history, diamond merchants used a variety of different, usually broad, terms to talk about these four factors, rarely with any consistency. Terms such as river or water were used to describe diamonds that were the most colorless, with Cape assigned to pale yellow diamonds from South Africa’s Cape of Good Hope region. To describe clarity, they referred to diamonds as being “without flaws” or “with imperfections.” Cut was described as “made well” or “made poorly.” As a result, it was very difficult for jewelers to communicate those elements of value to their customers or for their customers to remember them. Only the term carat to describe weight has been used consistently from the 1500s to today.
Under Shipley’s direction, the term 4Cs became part of the American gem industry’s vernacular, popularized through advertising campaigns, lectures and GIA education courses. Within decades, they were integrated into the international nomenclature as well.
Jewelers welcomed Shipley’s innovation, but GIA did not stop there. Shipley’s successor as president, Richard T. Liddicoat (affectionately known as “RTL” by later generations of GIA staff) – along with colleagues Lester Benson, Joseph Phillips, Robert Crowningshield and Bert Krashes – expanded on the 4Cs.
Richard T. Liddicoat, president of GIA from 1952 to 1983, integrated the 4Cs into GIA’s curriculum and laboratory reports. Courtesy: Norman B. Samuels Portrait Photographers, Los Angeles
Their work included not only development of the now famous GIA D-to-Z Color Scale and GIA Clarity Scale for diamonds, but also the scientific methods and procedures for objectively grading a diamond’s quality.
A 2.78 carat (ct) D-color round brilliant diamond that is internally flawless is a wonder of nature. GIA invented the color- and clarity-grading terminology that is now used internationally to describe diamond quality. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co. Inc.
Before the 4Cs and RTL’s contributions, a confusing alphabet soup was used to describe a diamond’s color. In communicating color quality to consumers, retailers used competing systems with descriptors like “A,” “AA” and “AAA.” There was virtually no agreement among firms as to what was considered an “A” grade. Most diamond wholesalers used terms like rarest white and top Wesselton, in addition to those mentioned above. In short, there were no standards that allowed for consistent evaluation and comparison.
Since the 1930s, GIA had been working on an accurate, objective color-grading system for colorless to light yellow diamonds. The goal was to develop a system based on absolutes, instead of relative terms and vague descriptions. In 1953, GIA, under RTL’s direction, introduced the GIA D-to-Z color scale, choosing the letter “D” for the top grade (colorless) precisely because the letter had negative associations and so was unlikely to be misinterpreted or misused.
GIA’s D-to-Z Color Scale is the industry standard for grading the color of colorless to light yellow diamonds.
In addition to establishing a color scale, RTL and his colleagues defined the methods that would be used to grade a diamond’s color accurately and consistently. These included determining the type of lighting and neutral background with which a diamond should be evaluated, prescribing precisely how the diamond should be held and viewed, and developing master stones: sets of diamonds of predetermined color value against which the subject diamond is carefully compared.
The D-to-Z diamond color terminology RTL and his colleagues pioneered is now used around the world, and strict color-grading procedures are followed by the GIA laboratory.
Understanding the 4Cs is essential if you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring. This one has a 1 ct center stone surrounded by four diamond side stones. Melee diamonds in a halo setting frame the design and continue down the shoulders of the ring. Courtesy: Sylvie Collection
The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades that range from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3).
Diamond clarity grading was another area that was plagued by inconsistencies in terminology and methods. Some trade professionals used terms like perfect in addition to without flaws and with imperfections, which were vague and imprecise. Others used terms we recognize today, such as VS, VVS, and included, but without any agreed-upon definitions. RTL and Benson used these terms in creating a clarity-grading scale, but defined precise categories and expanded the number of grades within each category to account for the array of diamonds in the market. Fine-tuned in subsequent years, the GIA Clarity Scale today consists of six categories ranging from Flawless to Included and contains 11 specific grades.
This precision in clarity grading was made possible by another GIA innovation: the introduction of the gemological microscope as a tool for clarity grading. Using the microscope, GIA graders plot the inclusions and blemishes in all diamonds for which a full GIA Diamond Grading Report has been requested.
A plotting diagram, a feature of all GIA Diamond Grading Reports, uses specific symbols to map a diamond’s various inclusions and blemishes.
The impact of Cut – how well a diamond interacts with light – was another attribute that RTL and his associates wanted to better explain and standardize. Originally, RTL turned to the work of Belgian mathematician and diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky to help determine “ideal” proportions for a round brilliant cut diamond. RTL’s contribution included a rating system with deductions for proportions that deviated from those.
Because of GIA’s efforts to standardize the evaluation of diamond cut, round brilliants such as these can now be objectively graded. Courtesy: Supreme Jewelry
GIA’s system for evaluating cut has been modified over the decades. In 2006, after years of extensive research that included advanced computer modeling and observational studies, GIA introduced the GIA cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds. Today, the GIA Cut Scale, ranging from Excellent to Poor, describes how successfully a diamond interacts with light to deliver the brightness, fire and scintillation we associate with a fine round brilliant.
The GIA Cut Scale assesses the overall cut quality of each diamond individually, taking into account such features as proportions, table size, polish and symmetry.
Many factors contribute to the evaluation of a diamond’s cut, including the size of the facets, girdle thickness and total depth.
Using the latest scientific advances to establish grading standards that provide consistent, repeatable results, GIA has revolutionized the jewelry industry. With the framework provided by the 4Cs, it has transformed the way diamond quality is determined and communicated and, ultimately, how diamonds are bought and sold.
These standards are strictly followed by the GIA laboratory in its nine locations worldwide. They allow GIA to deliver objective, consistent diamond grading results anywhere in the world. It is important to note that although the terminology introduced by GIA has been adopted by other laboratories worldwide, only the GIA laboratory has the proprietary equipment and procedures to grade diamonds to these standards.
All this critical information becomes part of a GIA Diamond Grading Report. With it, you’ll know the essential facts about the diamond you’re considering.
The GIA Diamond Grading System provides a complete description of diamonds such as this 1.37 ct H-color, VS1-clarity round brilliant in a platinum Tiffany & Co. setting. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Why ask for a GIA Diamond Grading Report? Read more and decide for yourself.
Opal is the October birthstone – and its play-of-color is so mesmerizing that it borders on magical. From coveted black opal, to serene water opal, to blazing fire opal, there’s one for every taste. We help you find your favorite. (more…)
Protect your diamond engagement ring from damage or loss by making the right buying decision and then keeping it like new for the rest of your life. Here are some tips on how to safeguard your treasured possession.
Diamonds are the hardest gemstones on earth – they rank 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness – but they can still suffer damage. Diamonds have clarity characteristics called blemishes and inclusions. Blemishes are confined to the diamond’s surface. Inclusions are internal characteristics either totally enclosed within a diamond or extending into the diamond from its surface.
Generally, if a diamond has significant durability problems, it doesn’t survive the friction and pressure of the cutting process. However, certain types of inclusions, especially if they’re near the girdle, can make a cut diamond more vulnerable to damage. (A girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow section separating its upper (crown) and lower (pavilion) parts, and functioning as the diamond’s setting edge.) For example, if the stone is hit precisely on a feather or other surface-reaching inclusion, it might chip. Likewise, very deep feathers that extend from the crown to the pavilion, or that penetrate about one-third of the way or more into the diamond, could pose durability concerns. The size, number, location, relief and nature of the inclusions within a diamond are considered when its clarity grade is assigned. You should take into account the types of clarity characteristics before you purchase the stone.
A chip is a damaged area, usually near the girdle of a diamond. Photo: John I. Koivula/GIA
A GIA Diamond Grading Report contains essential clarity information about the diamond you’re considering. In addition to providing an objective assessment of the diamond’s color, cut and carat weight, the report also contains your diamond’s clarity grade along with a map of your diamond’s clarity characteristics. Called a plotting diagram, the color-coded map shows the types of inclusions and blemishes the diamond has and their precise locations. Learn more about the plotting diagram.
Since the corners on a princess cut diamond are vulnerable to chipping, select an engagement ring setting with V-shaped prongs to protect them. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com
Some diamond shapes and cuts are more vulnerable to chipping than others because they have points or sharp corners. The rectangular or square shaped princess cut is one example. The marquise, pear and heart shapes are others. This is not to say you shouldn’t buy one of these shapes; just make sure your diamond is in a setting that protects areas that are more susceptible to chipping. Very thin girdles, sometimes called knife-edge girdles, also pose a greater risk of damage, regardless of the diamond shape.
Diamonds have cleavage, which is the tendency of certain gems and minerals to break or split somewhat easily along crystallographic planes due to their atomic structure. Diamonds are tougher in the directions where the atoms are bonded tightly together, and less tough where they’re not so tightly bonded. This means that diamonds are more likely to be damaged on or near a cleavage plane.
The corners of a princess cut are more vulnerable to chipping since they lie close to a cleavage plane. Illustration: Al Gilbertson/GIA
A diamond in an engagement ring is often held in its mounting by prongs. A prong is a narrow metal support, typically used in groups of four to six. When it comes to protecting your diamond, a six-prong setting can offer more protection than a four-prong setting. In the event a prong breaks, a six-prong setting is more likely to hold the diamond in place. The two additional prongs might also provide a little extra protection for the girdle during daily wear. There are pros and cons to using four or six prongs.
Four prongs can provide an adequate degree of protection and hold your diamond securely. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
This 1.37 carat (ct) diamond is secure in a six-prong setting. If one prong breaks, the other five will probably hold the stone in its place. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Another choice that offers considerable protection is the bezel setting – a style in which a thin metal strip is pushed or hammered around a gem to hold it in place. A bezel setting helps prevent the center stone from falling out, and it protects the girdle against bumps, bangs and other accidents. Partial bezels and V-shaped prongs also protect vulnerable points and corners of diamonds.
The 0.53 ct diamond in this bezel setting is well protected. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Although striking and unusual, a tension setting may be a riskier choice for an engagement ring. The diamond, which appears to be suspended in air, is held in place by the inherent force in the two opposing sides of the metal setting. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Gift of Steven Kretchmer and Eightstar Diamond Company
Diamonds graded by GIA often have their grading report numbers microscopically inscribed on their girdles. This laser inscription is automatically applied to all diamonds that come with either a GIA Diamond Dossier or Diamond FocusTM report. It’s an optional, low-cost additional service for diamonds with GIA Diamond Grading Reports.
A laser inscription serves as a secure identifying feature, which links the diamond to its specific report data. Viewable under 10× magnification with a simple jeweler’s loupe, the inscribed report number can be matched to the diamond’s physical report or entered into GIA Report Check, GIA’s online database containing the diamond’s grading details. Should your diamond be stolen and later recovered, a laser inscription may help the police identify it.
By the way, you’re not limited to inscribing a report number – you can also inscribe a short message, a special date or other meaningful symbol.
A diamond with a laser inscription can give you added peace of mind. Photo: Al Gilbertson/GIA
The emotional value of your engagement ring is priceless, but it does have a monetary value. That’s why insuring it is a smart thing to do. Most homeowner’s and renter’s insurance policies offer relatively inexpensive coverage for jewelry theft. Make sure your policy also covers damage and loss. Be sure to read it carefully.
An engagement ring represents so much that you’ll want to make sure it’s a lifetime companion. Courtesy: Sylvie
Many insurance companies will require an appraisal in order to determine your diamond engagement ring’s replacement value. An appraisal is an evaluation of diamonds or other jewelry, usually for insurance or estate purposes. Appraisals normally provide a detailed description of the pieces being appraised, including the exact measurements of the important gemstones, together with (for diamonds) their color and clarity grades, plots showing the location of inclusions or blemishes, and information on the properties and make. They then state an estimated value.
You can find a local appraiser by consulting a list of professional appraisal associations. Many of these organizations require that their appraisers have a GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma in addition to supplemental appraisal training. They also expect members to uphold the highest ethical and professional standards.
You’ll want to insure this 1.03 ct heart-shaped diamond engagement ring. The V-shaped prong at the point helps protect the diamond from damage. Courtesy: Leo Ingwer
Diamond engagement rings are meant for a lifetime of daily wear, but they’re not indestructible. Prongs can shift and loosen over time. Exercise, gardening, catching on clothing and accidental bangs all may take their toll.
Even washing the dishes with an engagement ring on isn’t ideal (how many stories have you read about a ring going down a drain?). Wearing it in cold weather can be risky; fingers shrink and rings can slide around. A good way to protect your diamond is to remove your engagement ring before these kinds of activities.
You’ve heard that only a diamond can scratch a diamond? Well, storing or wearing diamond-set jewelry items next to each other can cause chips and other damage as well as scratches. One solution is to store your diamond ring or other jewels individually in padded boxes or soft pouches. Make sure you place only one piece of jewelry in each bag or box.
To protect the 1.01 ct pear shaped diamond and surrounding melee, be sure to take the ring off before gardening or performing other risky activities. To avoid inadvertently scratching or chipping the stones, store the ring individually in a box or soft bag. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
It’s a good idea to get the prongs in your engagement ring checked every six months for potential damage. If this seems too frequent for you, use your yearly wedding anniversary as a convenient reminder to get the prongs checked. Many insurance companies also require that the ring receive regular check-ups. Contact your carrier to find its requirements.
Tightening prongs is a routine task for a bench jeweler. You can check if a prong is loose by seeing if the stone moves when you gently push it (if it moves, it’s loose). Gaps between the diamond and the setting are another warning sign. Look at the ring with a 10× loupe to help see such gaps and spot damaged prongs.
A breathtaking sight: An 11.17 ct marquise is held in place by six prongs. Tapered baguettes decorate the shank. Photo: Valerie Power/GIA
Dirt won’t break or chip your diamond, but it will dull its appearance. You can clean your diamond by using a lint-free cloth or washing it with warm water, mild soap and a soft toothbrush. Don’t use abrasive household cleaners, or steam cleaners. Ultrasonic cleaners are safe for untreated diamonds; however, treated diamonds can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaners. You can briefly dip your diamond in a commercial jewelry cleaning solution. It’s also a good idea to have your ring periodically cleaned by a professional jeweler. If you follow the check-up advice above, your diamond engagement ring will retain its sparkle for a lifetime.
Now that you know how to protect your diamond, it’s time to debunk eight common diamond engagement ring myths.
Victorian style engagement rings evoke a romantic past. Flowers, hearts and acrostic messages are just a few of the motifs you can use to create a symbol of your love. Learn more about this captivating engagement ring style.
The Victorian era is named after Queen Victoria (1819–1901), who ruled Great Britain for almost 64 years, from June 20, 1837 until her death on May 1, 1901. For decades, the beloved monarch’s tastes influenced art, style and customs. A wreath of fragrant orange blossoms that she wore on her wedding day became the fashion of the time for British brides. The jewelry that she wore, which was featured in newspapers, was widely copied.
A young Queen Victoria is adorned with jewels and her royal regalia in this portrait by Alexander Melville from 1845. Courtesy: www.bildindex.de, obj 13850883, via Wikimedia Commons
Queen Victoria’s marriage to Prince Albert lasted a brief 21 years. Their love was celebrated and idolized by an admiring public. After Albert’s untimely death from typhoid in 1861, Queen Victoria spent the rest of her life in mourning, but her love for Albert became the stuff of legend.
Queen Victoria’s jewelry collection included a serpent bracelet she wore to symbolize “the wisdom of the serpent” that she sought as the head of state, reset treasures from the Crown Jewels, a heart-shaped locket with strands of Prince Albert’s hair (worn after his passing), and a sapphire and diamond diadem. Particularly beloved were the jewels Albert gave her, often of his own design. His wedding gift was a sapphire and diamond brooch, which she wore proudly in her bridal portrait. Over the years that followed, in honor of the floral tiara she wore at her wedding, he gave her several pieces in the orange blossom theme.
Mourning jewelry, which she wore after Albert’s death, became the style across England. In addition to the black enamel, jet and onyx of mourning jewelry, diamonds continued to play an important part in Queen Victoria’s life. As a widow, she dressed herself in black silk and diamonds.
During Queen Victoria’s long reign, a number of revolutionary inventions reshaped society: anesthesia, the telegraph, the telephone, automobiles, bicycles, the electric bulb and railways. It was a time of comparative peace and prosperity for a growing middle class who could afford to purchase jewelry. In the late 1860s, the discovery of large quantities of diamonds in South Africa put a gem that was once reserved to the aristocracy and wealthy within the reach of many.
As Queen Victoria reigned for more than six decades, the period is rich in jewelry styles. Here are some motifs you can use in your one-of-a-kind Victorian style engagement ring.
Victorians loved acrostic jewelry – using the first letter of gemstones to spell a word. For example, the word “Regard” was spelled by using a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond. Regard, Adore, Dear and Dearest were popular acrostic terms, as were birthday wishes. Acrostic jewelry was meant to send private messages known only to one’s beloved. That makes it perfect for your personally-designed custom Victorian style engagement ring or wedding band.
Ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond spell “Regard” in this Victorian-era (circa 1870) acrostic engagement ring. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle, doyledoyle.com
The snake has been used as a symbol for millennia. Today the snake may have negative associations for many; however, during the Victorian era, the snake represented love, eternity and wisdom. Adding a snake motif to your custom Victorian style engagement ring and wedding band could be an edgy and eye-catching choice.
Two snakes are locked in an embrace in this Victorian-era (circa 1860) ring. An old European cut diamond and a ruby crown the heads of the snakes. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Edgy and Victorian-inspired, this platinum serpent style ring with heart shaped diamonds and melee borrows two signature design motifs from the period. Courtesy: Platinum Guild International, USA
Victorians loved horticulture, built greenhouses to grow exotic plants and devoured books on the subject. They felt specific flowers had specific meanings: Tulips meant passion, bluebells represented kindness, myrtle stood for good luck and love in marriage, red roses symbolized love, and purple violets conveyed “thoughts occupied with love.” As a result, the giving of flowers often conveyed emotions that could not be spoken out loud. Now that you know the meaning of these blooms, you can add the appropriate flower or even a bouquet of flowers to your Victorian style engagement ring.
A dramatic declaration of love is told in gems: Three flowers with ruby petals glow in this Victorian-era ring. Diamonds are the hearts of the blooms, and melee diamonds surround them in a play of light. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com
This modern engagement ring with its floral inspired design evokes the romantic Victorian period. Courtesy: Erika Winters Fine Jewelry, erikawinters.com
By the latter half of the 19th century, the discovery of diamonds in South Africa had put the dream of a diamond engagement ring within reach of the rising middle class. A gem that was once extremely rare was now being mined in sufficient quantity to fulfill the demands of a broad range of people.
The old mine cut, an early cushion-shaped brilliant cut with many proportion variations, was often used in jewelry during the early and mid-Victorian periods. It has 58 facets like most round brilliants, but it typically has a smaller table, larger culet and higher crown. Other characteristics include short lower half facets and a girdle that is very thin in places. As a result, an old mine cut diamond has a very distinctive look. Advances in diamond-cutting technology in the late 1800s allowed cutters to create round girdles. This led to the old European cut, precursor to today’s round brilliant cut, gaining popularity during the late Victorian period.
An old mine cut diamond has a distinctive look – especially compared to a round brilliant. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA
For centuries a plain gold band was a common choice for an engagement ring. By the Middle Ages, though, gem-set “betrothal rings” had become fashionable. In 1477, Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a diamond betrothal ring, one of the earliest on record. To bring more light (and, thus, brilliance and sparkle) to the faceted diamonds that were becoming increasingly popular, the Tiffany Setting (a six-prong setting) was introduced in 1886. A diamond solitaire is still an extremely popular choice for an engagement ring, and the use of an old mine (or similar) cut diamond will give your custom engagement ring the essence of Victorian style.
The diamond solitaire ring has become a universal symbol of love. It has a timeless quality, as evidenced by this Victorian-era engagement ring featuring a 0.88 carat (ct) old mine cut diamond. Courtesy: TheRealReal.com
The image of a heart has long represented love, and it especially appealed to Victorians, who had a soft spot for things sentimental. Then as now, the motif is a popular means of expressing affection. A heart-shaped diamond – or any gemstone – is an easy way to get the look in your Victorian style engagement ring. Two pear-shaped stones coming together in a single heart send the same message in a very clever fashion.
Two hearts beat as one in this Victorian-era ring, which features two stunning pear shapes, a 0.84 ct diamond and a 1.28 ct ruby. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
Looking for design inspiration for your Victorian style engagement ring? Take heart! This modern heart-shaped yellow diamond ring features a signature motif of the Victorian era. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com
A crossover ring wraps around the finger, with the ends of the band passing each other. The style was popular in the 1890s, and still remains so. It is also called a toi et moi ring (“you and me” in French). The two stones are said to symbolize the intertwining of two lives. Such a romantic notion would be a lovely design choice for your Victorian style engagement ring.
This Victorian-era (circa 1885) crossover ring, set with a sapphire and an old European cut diamond, celebrates two lives joined together in marriage. Courtesy: Treasurly by Dima
There’s no shortage of delightful style motifs from the Victorian era that you can use to design a custom engagement ring. Before you start sketching, take a few minutes to learn the 4Cs of diamond quality: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. Knowing these will help you choose the perfect diamond for your beautiful Victorian style engagement ring.
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