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GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

GIA 4Cs Diamond Blog

The Marriage Proposal: Seven Tips to Help Get You There

“Will you marry me?” It’s the ultimate question. You want the marriage proposal to be perfect and the answer to be “yes!” There’s a lot that goes into popping the question. But have no fear. Follow these common tips for how to propose in a few simple steps. (more…)

Cruise Ship Shopping: Tips for Buying Gems and Jewelry

A cruise ship vacation offers a sea of buying options for diamond or colored gemstone jewelry. To get the best value for your memento, it pays to do some homework and know the risks of buying jewelry while on a cruise. (more…)

How to Build Your Own Engagement Ring: The Magic of Semi Mount Rings

Many jewelers offer a way to create your own engagement ring featuring the use of semi mount rings. These partially set mountings let you create an engagement ring that is uniquely yours, often more quickly and for less money than a custom engagement ring. (more…)

Propose Now, Shop Later: The Placeholder Ring

Ready to propose but not ready to buy an engagement ring? A placeholder ring is a great stand-in while you work out the thousand-and-one details that go into buying your forever engagement ring. Here’s what to consider: (more…)

Men’s Wedding Rings– Pick one that Suits His Style

Men’s wedding rings don’t have to be plain. Make a statement by adding diamonds or other gems to metals like stainless steel, platinum or different gold colors. We’ll help you and your groom pick one that’s both stylish and practical.

(more…)

How to Choose Diamond Stud Earrings

Diamond stud earrings can dress up your look. They add a splash of style to any outfit. And turn heads. Just ask trendsetter Meghan Markle, now the Duchess of Sussex. Here’s how to choose a pair of diamond studs you’ll love. (more…)

Nine Things About Diamond Carat Weight You Need to Know

If you’re shopping for an engagement ring, you need to know about carat weight – the measurement of how much a diamond weighs. Carat weight is important because it helps determine a diamond’s price and reflects its rarity. We take a closer look. (more…)

Buying Guide for White, Yellow and Rose Gold Engagement Rings

Gold engagement rings are forever favorites. But how do you pick the right color gold for your ring style and center diamond? Here’s a quick breakdown on gold alloys and what to consider when making this important engagement ring decision. (more…)

Buying Guide: Colored Gemstone Engagement Rings

Colored gemstone engagement rings are hot. They’re showing up on royalty and celebrities alike. They’re beautiful. They’re unusual. And they can be a great value. Here’s what you need to know when you go shopping.

In this blog, we cover:

The Empress Josephine toi and moi engagement ring featuring a 1 carat pear shaped sapphire and diamond mounted in 18K gold.

The Empress Josephine toi et moi (“you and me”) engagement ring features a 1 carat (ct) pear shaped sapphire and diamond mounted in 18K gold. Photo: PATRICK KOVARIK. Courtesy: AFP/Getty Images

Why the trend in colored gemstone engagement rings

Colorful gemstone engagement rings are decorating the fingers of royals and other style makers, reviving a not-so-new trend for adding pops of color – and personality – to traditional colorless diamond engagement rings.

Some stylistas are achieving the color-me look with pink, yellow or blue diamonds, while others turn to the world of colored gemstones to find their splash of color.

More than 200 years ago, in 1796, Napoleon Bonaparte gave his future empress, Joséphine, a sapphire and diamond toi et moi (“you and me”) ring for their engagement.

Today, Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, wears what is probably the most famous colored gemstone engagement ring. A beautiful creation that once belonged to Princess Diana, it boasts a 12 ct sapphire encircled by diamonds.

A 2.73 ct oval sapphire engagement ring accented by 0.56 carats of diamonds.

If you like Kate Middleton’s engagement ring, then you’re sure to love this beauty. A 2.73 ct oval sapphire glows the brighter for being accented by 0.56 carats of diamonds. Courtesy: Omi Privé

Kate’s recently engaged cousin by marriage, Princess Eugenie, daughter of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson, opted for a slightly orangy pink padparadscha sapphire, surrounded by round brilliant cut diamonds. The style somewhat resembles the engagement ring her mother (the Duchess of York) received – a ruby with a halo of diamonds.

A 2.02 ct padparadscha sapphire and diamond ring.

Like Princess Eugenie’s engagement ring, this 2.02 ct padparadscha sapphire and diamond ring is both beautiful and unusual. Courtesy: Omi Privé

In the celebrity world, actress Jenny McCarthy wears a 10 ct yellow sapphire engagement ring framed by diamonds. Ashlee Simpson’s vintage-style ring features a marquise diamond surrounded by calibré cut rubies. Elizabeth Hurley sports a 9 ct blue sapphire framed by two trilliant cut diamonds in a classic design.

For these trendsetters – and many other brides – incorporating colored gemstones into an engagement ring offers myriad options to display their individual style and personality. It’s a look that’s both timeless and contemporary.

What’s great about colored gemstone engagement rings

There’s a lot to love about colored gemstone engagement rings. First, there’s the obvious: color. Explore the world of colored gems and you’ll find a rainbow, from the deep reds of ruby and blues of sapphire, to the grassy greens of tsavorite garnet and kaleidoscopic colors of spinel. There’s a gem for every hue imaginable.

Second, with colored gemstones you can add more depth of meaning to the engagement ring. For example, you could include your birthstone and your partner’s birthstone, alone or with diamonds. Colored gemstones also come with historic symbolism, and you could pick one that inspires you. Take sapphire – it has traditionally been associated with sincerity, truth and faithfulness.

You can also use colored gemstones to send secret messages. The Victorians turned this into an art form with acrostic jewelry – using the first letter of each gemstone to spell a word. For example, a diamond, emerald, amethyst and ruby set together would spell the word “dear.” Acrostic jewelry can also be designed to spell birthdays, private messages or a secret shared between you and your beloved.

A Victorian era acrostic ring featuring ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond.

This acrostic ring was made in England during the Victorian era (1837–1901). The gems spell “regard” from left to right: ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond. Courtesy: Doyle & Doyle

Finally, there’s affordability. Colored gemstones are a great way to add size to an engagement ring. This is especially true if you look beyond rubies and sapphires toward gems that are less well known but equally as beautiful – and usually significantly less expensive. Examples include the pink beryl morganite, the many colors of spinel and tourmaline, or intense green, red or orange garnets.

A gemstone engagement ring featuring a spessartine garnet center stone cut by John Dyer, pink tourmaline side stones and diamond melee.

If your bride-to-be’s favorite colors are orange and pink, this ring featuring a spessartine garnet center stone cut by John Dyer, pink tourmaline side stones and diamond melee is sure to please. Courtesy: John Dyer & Co.

A 7.07 carat Art Deco style morganite cocktail set in18K white gold with a double-halo of diamonds.

The color of morganite can be very similar to that of a pink diamond, but this 7.07 ct morganite is a striking – and more affordable – option. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Morganite engagement rings are recent favorites with brides-to-be – and for good reason. Pink has traditionally been the color of romance, and morganite ranges from pastel pink to purplish, yellowish or orangy pink. Similar hues are seen in pink diamonds, but you can have a large, attractive morganite for a small fraction of their cost.

Blue zircon, with its high dispersion, is often mistaken for blue diamonds. Yet while the cost of even a 1 ct blue diamond would be prohibitive for most buyers, a 3 or 4 ct blue zircon engagement ring is obtainable for far less than an average month’s salary.

A 6.74 ct cushion cut zircon ring accented with trilliant cut tsavorite garnet side stones and round brilliant cut diamonds set in 18K white gold.

Find beauty in blue with this 6.74 ct cushion cut zircon ring accented with trilliant cut tsavorite garnet side stones and round brilliant cut diamonds set in 18K white gold. Courtesy: Omi Privé

Spinel and tourmaline are two other gems that offer a wide range of color options and great value. They occur in colors that are very similar to those of fine ruby or sapphire, but a top-quality 5 ct red tourmaline (rubellite) could be purchased for less than a third of the cost of a comparable 2 ct ruby – delivering more bling for your buck.

One of the most exciting, if less well known, colored gemstones seen in engagement rings is the green garnet known as tsavorite. More durable and often brighter than emerald, whose color it mimics, a fine tsavorite garnet is usually less expensive than its counterpart.

A 2.86 ct tsavorite ring with diamond accents, set in platinum.

An alternative and more durable option than emerald, this 2.86 ct tsavorite ring with diamond accents stands out from the crowd. Photo: Emily Lane/GIA. Courtesy: Sara and Bret Keller

With so many different colored gemstones available, your challenge will be finding one that sets your heart aflame – and making sure the gem is tough enough for daily wear.

Durability and colored gemstone engagement rings

Durability is a major consideration when searching for an engagement ring gemstone. The gem you choose must withstand the bumps and bangs of daily wear, plus the effects of heat, light, household chemicals and low or high humidity. Different gemstones have different properties and, as a result, different tolerances to these stressors.

The Mohs scale ranks gem and mineral hardness in a range from 1 (least hard – talc) to 10 (hardest of all – diamond).

Introduced in the early 19th century, the Mohs scale ranks gem and mineral hardness in a range from 1 (least hard – talc) to 10 (hardest of all – diamond). Illustration: GIA

One aspect of gemstone durability is hardness. The Mohs scale ranks gem and mineral hardness on a scale of 1 (least hard – talc) to 10 (hardest of all – diamond). Ruby and sapphire rank 9, meaning they are able to resist scratching and abrasions. This makes them great choices for engagement rings that will see a lifetime of active wear. Although less hard, spinel (8), morganite (7.5–8), zircon (7.5), and tsavorite garnet and tourmaline (both 7–7.5) are considered durable enough for everyday wear provided care is exercised (no rock climbing!).

Two Montana sapphires weighing a total of 1.19 carats bookend a 2.05 ct round brilliant diamond.

Two Montana sapphires weighing a total of 1.19 carats bookend a 2.05 ct round brilliant diamond. Courtesy: EraGem.com

Toughness and stability are two additional factors that determine a gemstone’s durability.

Toughness indicates how well a gemstone resists breaking, chipping or cracking. The way the atoms of a gem bond together and the strength of these bonds determine gemstone toughness. Examples of not-so-tough gems are opal and tanzanite which, if set in rings, are best reserved for special occasions – not everyday wear.

Stability refers to how well a gemstone can withstand exposure to chemicals, light and changes in temperature or humidity. Extreme temperature changes can damage some gems like opal and tanzanite. Opals can crack or craze in low humidity or with exposure to heat. Citrine, amethyst and topaz may fade or change color from prolonged exposure to sunlight. Light and/or heat can also negatively affect most organic gems – such as pearls, coral and amber – as will exposure to household chemicals.

A 9.30 carat tanzanite center stone is surrounded by 1.18 carats of diamonds in this ring.

Tanzanite is a beautiful gem that calls for special occasions. At 6 to 7 on the Mohs scale with fair-to-poor toughness, it’s not ideal for an engagement ring that will see a lifetime of daily wear. Courtesy: Omi Privé

It’s important to note that many colored gemstones are routinely treated to improve their color and/or clarity. Designed to bring out the inherent beauty of a gem, many of these treatments are widely accepted in the gem trade. However, you should be aware that some treatments can also affect stability. As a result, your gem may require special care.

For example, treatments such as coating and fracture filling can be removed by heat and strong chemicals. Although emerald ranks 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale, it is not a tough gem and is often treated with oil and/or resin to improve clarity. This treatment also disguises fractures in the stone that can cause it to break if banged against a hard surface. If you have your heart set on a green gemstone engagement ring you plan to wear every day, you might want to consider a more durable tsavorite garnet instead, reserving emeralds for earrings or pendants. Garnets are rarely treated and have good toughness.

A halo of diamonds creates contrast with the emerald and helps protect this popular but fragile stone. Two yellow diamonds add more color and drama to the ring.

A halo of diamonds creates contrast with the emerald and helps protect this popular but fragile stone. Two yellow diamonds add more color and drama to the ring. Courtesy: Omi Privé.

Other qualities to look for in colored gemstone engagement rings

Color is king

Like colorless diamonds, the quality of a colored gemstone is determined by a combination of the 4Cs: color, clarity, cut and carat weight. For colored gems, however, color is by far the most important factor. In some cases, such as whether a gem is called pink sapphire or ruby, or green beryl or emerald, the distinction may be made based on color alone. Clarity is important, but for most colored gems there is no universal grading system or set of standards to evaluate clarity. And cut may vary greatly from stone to stone. The goal is typically to maximize size and color – or, as in the case of fantasy cuts, to create a work of art.

A 9.05 ct bi-colored tourmaline ring set in 14K white gold features yellow diamonds, tsavorites and rubellites.

A piece of art to stand the test of time, this 9.05 ct bi-colored tourmaline ring set in 14K white gold features yellow diamonds, tsavorites and rubellites. Photo: Orasa Weldon/GIA. Gift of Derek Katzenbach. In Memory of Nicholas Scott Golden, University of Maine geology student.

There are, however, some important considerations to look for when assessing the quality of a colored gemstone in addition to the durability factors discussed above. Many gems show more than one color. This can be an asset in a bi-colored tourmaline – for the bride-to-be who wants a truly unique colored stone engagement ring.

In other gems, such as blue sapphire, colorless zones seen on close inspection may detract from the overall appearance of the gem. And while high clarity is desirable in most colored gems, as it is in diamonds, a few identifying inclusions in an inconspicuous area (such as the culet) may ensure that the colored gem is natural (not synthetic) and untreated.

Optical phenomena
Colored gemstones also offer the possibility of certain phenomena, such as chatoyancy (the cat’s-eye effect) and asterism (a star), that are not seen in diamonds. These phenomena are caused by the reflection of light off dense inclusions of minerals in gems cut as cabochons. Such phenomenal stones provide exciting design options for a colored gemstone engagement ring.

A 7.57 ct cat’s-eye chrysoberyl ring surrounded by a halo of round brilliant cut diamonds.

This 7.57 ct cat’s-eye chrysoberyl seems to symbolize two lives united as one. Add a sparkling halo of round brilliant cut diamonds for strength and you have the perfect sentiment for an engagement ring. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Richard Krementz Gemstones

Where the gem comes from
For some gems, such as ruby and sapphire, country of origin may also play a significant role in determining value. For example, a ruby from Myanmar (“Burmese” ruby) can cost significantly more than a comparable ruby from another locality, such as Mozambique. Similarly, there is a premium for sapphires from Kashmir, due to both their distinctive “cornflower blue” color and their rarity: There has not been major production from this region for more than a century.

Who owned it before
Another important factor in determining price is historical provenance. An antique or vintage colored gemstone engagement ring may come with its own story, and that story may have value. In one of the most striking examples, when the Empress Josephine sapphire and diamond engagement ring mentioned above was offered at auction in 2013, the auction house estimated its value at $20,000 based largely on the gems alone. Ultimately, the winning bidder paid more than $1 million – a huge premium for the ring’s storied association with Napoleon Bonaparte and his first bride.

A ring of Burmese rubies encircles an Old European cut diamond in this Art Deco–era ring.

A ring of Burmese rubies encircles an Old European cut diamond in this Art Deco–era ring. A Greek key motif made of platinum circles the rubies, while another ring of diamonds completes the design. Courtesy: LangAntiques.com

Quality and rarity drive value
Like diamonds, colored gems of high quality are rare, so buyers typically pay a premium for top-quality colored stones. Once you’ve decided on a gemstone for your engagement ring, it pays to comparison shop to understand its quality factors and how they affect value. You should also learn as much as you can about your gemstone of choice. GIA’s Gem Encyclopedia is a good place to start. It provides in-depth information for 29 of the most popular gems on the market. You’ll also find detailed buying guides for each gem describing the specific qualities to look for, the gem’s durability, common treatments and more.

Caring for colored gemstone engagement rings

After you’ve purchased your colored gemstone engagement ring, you’ll want to keep it like new. The right way to clean it will vary depending on the gem material you’ve chosen and whether or not it’s been treated. Usually, gentle cleaning solutions specially formulated for delicate gems – or just warm, soapy water and a soft cloth – are all you need. If you’re uncertain about the durability of your gem, avoid using ultrasonic cleaners and off-the-shelf cleaning solutions.

A 5.11 ct yellow sapphire engagement ring, surrounded by 128 round diamonds weighing 0.75 carats.

Washing with warm, soapy water is the safest way to clean this 5.11 ct yellow sapphire engagement ring, which is surrounded by 128 round diamonds weighing 0.75 carats. Courtesy: Omi Privé

Setting styles for colored gemstone engagement rings

Engagement ring settings must secure the gems they hold as well as show them to their best advantage. Bezels, halos and other protective settings can play an important role in preventing the chipping or cracking of colored gemstones. But who said practical can’t also be beautiful? Settings serve as an essential design element, defining an engagement ring’s style and overall look. Settings let you introduce contrasts in color or harmonize them to get just the right amount of color pop in your ring. Consider these examples:

  • A three-stone engagement ring. A three-stone engagement ring is rich in symbolism: The gems represent yesterday, today and tomorrow. Wear it and you’ll proclaim that your love is eternal. The style has also withstood the test of time – three-stone diamond engagement rings date to at least the 17th century. Adding color with rubies, emeralds, sapphires and onyx to a white canvas of diamonds and platinum was popular in the Art Deco era.
Three-stone gemstone engagement ring featuring two rubies and a round brilliant diamond.

Create a fiery look in an engagement ring by using this three-stone ring for inspiration. The two rubies (1.41 ct and 1.37 ct) bracketing the 1.39 ct round brilliant diamond are sure to catch the eye. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

  • A halo setting. This setting features a circle of gems surrounding the center stone. Diamond engagement rings with halo settings have been particularly popular these past several years because they’re beautiful, add sparkle and make the center stone look larger. The halo setting is also a favorite for colored gemstone engagement rings. You’ll often see the center stone providing a bold splash of color, while a circle of diamonds or colored stones adds sparkle and contrast – as well as protection for the gem they surround.
A gemstone engagement ring featuring a 2.57 ct spinel encircled by 0.20 carats of round diamonds.

Need more proof that colored gemstones can bring excitement to an engagement ring? This stunning creation features a 2.57 ct spinel encircled by 0.20 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: Omi Privé

  • A bypass ring. Want an engagement ring that looks a bit different and has color? Consider the bypass ring – a style where the band overlaps, instead of completing the circle. Bypass rings were popular in the Victorian era. The sentiment behind these toi et moi rings has an undeniably romantic cachet.
A Victorian-era diamond and sapphire bypass ring.

The diamond and sapphire in this Victorian-era bypass ring make for a delicate pairing. Courtesy: Treasurly by Dima

Jewelry designers are putting a contemporary stamp on three-stone, halo and bypass rings with colored gemstones. Their modern updates are a beautiful melding of past and present – pieces that pop with color and life. Look around and you’ll find a number of creative interpretations.

Blue sapphires surround a rose cut diamond in this modern ring with a design borrowed from the Victorian era.

Something old. Something new. Something borrowed. Something blue. Blue sapphires surround a rose cut diamond in this modern ring with a design borrowed from the Victorian era. Courtesy: Shelly Purdy Studio

A pear shaped sapphire is surrounded by colorless diamonds and a second halo of sapphires.

A pear shaped sapphire is surrounded by colorless diamonds and a second halo of sapphires. Diamonds and sapphires spill down the shank of the ring. The bold contrasting colors create a visual richness sure to please. Courtesy: Omi Privé

How to buy colored gemstone engagement rings

Now that you know about colored gemstone engagement rings, you’re ready to start shopping. But where? The GIA Retailer Look Up lets you easily find local retailers who have GIA-trained staff to help you through your gemstone selection process.

GIA Colored Stone Report

Before you decide on a colored gemstone engagement ring, ask for a GIA Colored Stone Identification Report.

To make sure you get the best value, ask for an unbiased GIA Colored Stone Identification Report. The report will validate the gem’s identity and include detailed descriptions of its size, color and measurements, along with a color photograph. The report will also indicate whether the gem has been treated and, if it has, identify the type of treatment – important to knowing how to care for your gem. Depending on the gemstone, you may also be able to get information on its geographic origin.

Need more inspiration for colorful engagement rings? Read our article on how to buy antique and vintage engagement rings for some exciting examples.

GIA Diamond Cut Grade: Six Things You Need to Know

A GIA diamond cut grade is key to knowing how well your round brilliant diamond will sparkle. Cut is the most complex of a diamond’s 4Cs. Let’s cover some essentials so you can pick the perfect round brilliant diamond engagement ring.

In this blog, we cover:

  1. Diamond cut quality and why it’s important
  2. What goes into a GIA diamond cut grade
  3. Diamond sparkle and face-up appearance
  4. Why diamond proportions are important
  5. Design, craftsmanship and the GIA diamond cut grade
  6. How GIA assigns a diamond cut grade

1. Diamond cut quality and why it’s important

The most popular diamond in the marketplace is the round brilliant. Experts estimate that this cut alone accounts for more than 70% of all diamonds sold today. The quality of a round brilliant diamond’s cut determines how much the diamond sparkles. To pick a diamond whose flashes of light enchant the eye, you need to know the 4Cs of diamond quality, the universal standard for judging diamonds: color, cut, clarity and carat weight. All else being equal, the better the cut grade, the more valuable the diamond.

Some professionals consider cut the most important C of diamond quality. A well-cut round brilliant delivers that unmistakable, stop-in-your-tracks light show that telegraphs “diamond” across a crowded room. If the diamond is well cut, most compromises in clarity, color and even carat weight can be forgiven. A diamond’s cut grade is also an indication of how well it was designed and crafted. So, understanding the diamond cut grade is key to picking a round brilliant that’s not only beautiful, but also the best value.

2. What goes into a GIA diamond cut grade

In arriving at its cut grading system, GIA spent 15 years studying how light behaves within a round brilliant cut diamond. GIA’s aim was to understand the factors that contribute to a round brilliant’s appearance and to determine which of those factors – or combination of factors – produce diamonds that people consider attractive.

GIA’s research included the use of advanced computer modeling to analyze tens of thousands of possible proportion combinations. GIA then validated its research with human subjects, conducting more than 70,000 observations on actual diamonds, to determine which diamonds people found appealing and why.

The result was the GIA Cut Grading System, which evaluates the cut quality of a round brilliant diamond along a five-point scale ranging from Excellent to Poor.

A GIA cut grade evaluates:

  1. How the diamond appears when viewed face-up based on the attributes of brightness, fire and scintillation
  2. How well the diamond was designed to ensure durability and optimal weight
  3. The quality of the workmanship or craftsmanship that went into aligning and polishing the diamond’s facets
The GIA diamond cut grade is based on seven factors: brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry.

The GIA diamond cut grade is based on seven factors: brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry.

A 2.02 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with excellent cut, polish and symmetry.

This 2.02 carat (ct) round brilliant has excellent cut, polish and symmetry. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 1.01 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring that received an Excellent cut grade from GIA.

The reason behind the sparkle of this 1.01 ct round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring is the quality of the diamond’s cut. The diamond received an Excellent cut grade from GIA. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

3. Diamond sparkle and face-up appearance

A key component of a GIA diamond cut grade is the diamond’s face-up appearance – or how the diamond looks when viewed from above, as if it was set in an engagement ring. People love diamonds for their dazzling interplay with light – which the layperson often translates as “sparkle.” But there’s a lot more going on here.

When you see internal and external white light reflected from a diamond, you’re noticing “brightness.” If you see the scattering of light into all the colors of the rainbow, you’re being treated to “fire.” Sparkle is actually “scintillation,” the pattern of bright and dark areas caused by reflections within the diamond as it or the light source moves. What you might consider “sparkle” is really the overall visual effect of these three factors. A GIA cut grade includes an assessment of how well a diamond delivers on each of these attributes.

Round brilliant cut diamond showing good brightness, fire and scintillation when the diamond is moved.

This round brilliant cut diamond shows good brightness and fire. Scintillation, the pattern of light and dark areas and the flashes of light, or sparkle, can only be seen when a diamond is moved. Copyright: GIA & Harold and Erica Van Pelt

4. Why diamond proportions are important

A diamond’s proportions – its crown and pavilion angles and the relative measurements of its facets – are key contributors to a diamond’s overall face-up appearance. Remember that facets are tiny mirrors. Their size and placement will influence how light behaves as it passes through the diamond and back to your eye.

A diamond’s proportions can help predict how well a diamond will deliver brightness, fire and scintillation. However, an important outcome of GIA’s cut research was the finding that there is no single set of proportions that defines a well-cut round brilliant diamond. In fact, diamonds with different proportions can receive the same cut grade. The diamonds may look and perform differently but they will still have a similar impact on the observer. So, as a diamond shopper, you need to look beyond the measurements on a grading report. Be sure to view a diamond in person to see if it’s the right choice for you.

An illustration demonstrating the proportions that affect a diamond’s cut grade.

This graphic illustrates the proportions that affect a diamond’s cut grade. The crown and pavilion angles and the relative measurements of its facets contribute to a diamond’s brightness, fire and scintillation.

5. Design, craftsmanship and the GIA diamond cut grade

While face-up appearance is all about how a diamond looks, design and craftsmanship evaluate the quality of the diamond’s manufacture. Poor design could add unnecessary weight to a diamond or cause durability issues that would prevent you from enjoying it for a lifetime. A diamond with poor craftsmanship won’t deliver much in the way of brightness, fire and scintillation. In evaluating these two components, the GIA Cut Grading System takes into account the diamond’s physical shape, its proportions, its weight ratio, and the care that went into fashioning and polishing its facets.

Design
Design refers to decisions made during the fashioning process that determine the diamond’s physical shape, as seen in its proportions, weight ratio and durability. Weight ratio is the diamond’s weight in relation to its average girdle diameter (a fairly complex mathematical equation). A diamond with a smaller girdle diameter relative to its weight might appear smaller face-up than its well-designed counterpart, because much of the weight would be “hidden” in the overall depth of the diamond. For example, while a diamond with a thicker girdle could look great, the girdle is hiding unnecessary weight. As a result, you might end up paying more for a heavier diamond with no greater visual impact for the added cost. The bottom line: A diamond should not weigh more than its face-up size would indicate.

Image showing a diamond with a much thicker girdle (right) than the diamond on the left.

These pictures show the importance of weight ratio. Both of these diamonds have the same average girdle diameters, so face-up they appear to be the same size. But the diamond on the right has a much thicker girdle, so it weighs more (0.71 ct vs. 0.61 ct). The thicker girdle has no visual benefit, but the added weight will make the diamond more expensive. Photos: Maha Tannous/GIA

Durability in the case of a round brilliant diamond refers to the risk of damage that might result from an extremely thin girdle. Such a girdle can make a diamond highly vulnerable to damage during the jewelry setting procedure or even normal wear. Considering how much a diamond costs and its emotional significance, you want to avoid one that is susceptible to damage. A GIA Diamond Grading Report can eliminate this concern.

A 1.35 carat diamond with girdle areas very think to extremely thin.

Here is an example of why durability is important. This 1.35 ct diamond has girdle areas that are very thin to extremely thin, making it more susceptible to damage during everyday wear. Courtesy: Gary Roskin, G.G., F.G.A.

Craftsmanship

Craftsmanship describes the care that went into fashioning the diamond, as seen in its polish and symmetry. Polish refers to the overall quality and condition of the facet surfaces. It includes evaluation of any blemishes created by the polishing process or during wear. Polish is critical to the mirror-like performance of a diamond’s facets.

Diamond (left) showing lines created during polishing and diamond (right) with abraded facet junctions.

The diamond on the left shows lines created during the polishing process. The diamond on the right has abraded facet junctions caused by wear. Polish lines and abraded facet junctions can also affect a diamond’s clarity grade. Photos: Mitchell Moore/GIA

Symmetry is the exactness of a finished diamond’s shape and the arrangement and placement of its facets. A symmetrical diamond has an even display of brightness, fire and scintillation. A diamond with poor symmetry will have poor light performance, meaning that it’s likely to look flat.

An illustration showing all eight sections of a round brilliant identically. Illustration: GIA

All eight sections of a round brilliant cut diamond should be identical. This symmetry will help produce even brightness, fire and scintillation. Illustration: GIA

6. How GIA assigns a diamond cut grade

GIA evaluates a round brilliant diamond’s cut based on seven components – brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry – to arrive at a GIA diamond cut grade, which ranges from Excellent to Poor. The grade is set by the lowest assessment the diamond receives for five of the seven components. In other words, if a diamond receives a Poor grade for brightness, then the highest its overall cut grade can be is Poor. The exceptions are polish and symmetry, which are assessed using standard GIA grading methodology: A diamond with Very Good polish and/or symmetry, for example, may receive an Excellent cut grade.

A GIA Diamond Grading Report contains the diamond’s full cut assessment, in addition to a diagram showing the diamond’s proportions and relative measurements. Consider the report an invaluable tool in helping you pick a dazzling diamond.

The official GIA Cut Scale for round brilliant cut diamonds.

The official GIA Cut Scale for round brilliant cut diamonds. Illustration: GIA

While knowing a diamond’s cut grade is essential, it shouldn’t be a substitute for seeing a diamond in person. As mentioned above, a diamond cut grade represents a range. For example, two diamonds with an Excellent Cut Grade may look – and perform – very differently. In addition, a diamond will look different under various lighting conditions, so you should take it for a test drive, so to speak. Last, you need to fall in love with the diamond – and no report can substitute for what stirs your heart.

A 2.03 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring with Excellent cut.

An Excellent cut grade makes this 2.03 ct round brilliant diamond mesmerizing. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Diamond cut is extremely important. So is diamond color. Learn about it, too, so you can pick a spellbinding diamond.

Seven Things You Need to Know About Diamond Clarity

Diamond clarity is the relative absence of inclusions and blemishes. You should know about this 4Cs quality factor because it affects a diamond’s beauty and value. To understand what a diamond clarity is, use these tips to help you shop smartly:

  1. Inclusions and blemishes are not “flaws”
  2. When it comes to diamond clarity, less is more
  3. Learn the grades on the GIA Diamond Clarity Scale – the global standard
  4. Find out how GIA grades diamond clarity
  5. Treatments can improve diamond clarity – but it’s not all good
  6. Certain types of inclusions can make a diamond more vulnerable to damage
  7. To be sure of diamond clarity, get a GIA grading report

1. Inclusions and blemishes are not “flaws”

Diamond clarity is one of the 4Cs (the others being colorcut and carat weight). It plays an important role in determining a diamond’s overall beauty and ultimately its value. Diamond clarity refers to inclusions in the diamond and blemishes on its surface.

Inclusions and blemishes can result from a diamond’s formation, its crystal structure, the cutting-polishing-setting processes, or general wear. Inclusions can be totally enclosed within the diamond or they can extend into the diamond from its surface. Blemishes are confined to the diamond’s surface. Gemologists use 10× magnification to determine a clarity grade.

You may hear some people describe inclusions and blemishes as “flaws.” But most gemologists think of them instead as powerful identification tools. Inclusions can help in the separation of some natural diamonds and synthetic diamonds. And because most diamonds have a unique combination of inclusions and blemishes, these clarity characteristics act like fingerprints, giving each diamond its own identity.

If you’re wondering whether your diamond’s laser inscription is considered a blemish or inclusion – the answer is neither. A laser inscription is not considered a clarity characteristic.

To help you understand what diamond clarity is, here are pictures and descriptions of 16 types of inclusions and 11 types of blemishes commonly seen in diamonds.

2. When it comes to diamond clarity, less is more

When it comes to diamond clarity and value – like diamond color and value –  less is always more. Diamonds with few or no clarity characteristics are rare and because rarity drives price, they will cost more. In fact, diamonds without any visible clarity characteristics under a 10× jeweler’s loupe are called “flawless.” These diamonds are so rare that many jewelers may never see one in their career.

Less expensive diamonds often have inclusions that can be seen with the unaided eye. Most faceted diamonds fall between the two extremes – they have inclusions visible only with magnification.

A diamond with a clarity grade of I3.

Diamond clarity affects a diamond’s appearance. A diamond with many inclusions and blemishes can look off-color, pitted and scratched. This diamond has a clarity grade of I3. Photo: GIA

Clarity characteristics may be more visible in certain diamond cuts than others. For example, they will typically be easier to see in an emerald cut diamond compared to a round brilliant cut diamond. The long, rectangular facets that are characteristic of emerald cut diamonds make inclusions more readily visible than among the many smaller facets of a brilliant cut. However, if a diamond has many large clarity features, or if they are mirrored by the diamond’s many facets, they will be easy to see – no matter the shape or cutting style.

A 163.41 carat D-Flawless emerald cut diamond.

This 163.41 carat (ct) D-Flawless emerald cut diamond is a thing of uncommon beauty. Inclusions or blemishes visible with the unaided eye would mar its appearance. Courtesy: Christie’s

It’s worth noting that inclusions normally have more impact on a stone’s beauty and value than blemishes. This is because many blemishes are easy to remove. A fashioned diamond can sometimes be recut or repolished to eliminate blemishes and possibly improve its clarity grade.

 Diagram illustrating the effect of clarity on the value of diamonds

If all other factors are equal, as clarity increases so does diamond price per carat. Illustration: Peter Johnston/GIA

3. Learn the grades on the GIA Diamond Clarity Scale – the global standard

Diamond clarity is described using standard terminology developed by GIA in the 1950s. The grades are based, in part, on the visibility of inclusions and blemishes with 10× magnification by a trained grader. The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale is used to decide what diamond clarity is. It has six categories, some of which are subdivided, for a total of 11 specific grades for natural diamonds.

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has 11 grades, which range from Flawless to I3.

The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has 11 grades, which range from Flawless to I3.

  • Flawless (FL): No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification
  • Internally Flawless (IF): No inclusions and only insignificant blemishes visible under 10x magnification
  • Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2): Minute inclusions that range from extremely difficult (VVS1) to very difficult (VVS2) to see under 10x magnification
  • Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2): Minor inclusions that range from difficult (VS1) to somewhat easy (VS2) to see at 10x magnification.
  • Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2): Noticeable inclusions that are easy (SI1) or very easy (SI2) to see at 10x magnification
  • Included (I1, I2 and I3): Inclusions that are obvious under 10x magnification – and often visible with the unaided eye – which may affect transparency and brilliance
An internally flawless 2.78 carat D-color round brilliant cut diamond.

This 2.78 ct D-color round brilliant cut diamond is Internally Flawless. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy: Rogel & Co. Inc.

Here are two other terms you might come across.

  • Eye clean – This is an industry term for a diamond whose inclusions cannot be seen with the naked eye. Some shoppers may feel, “If I can’t see an inclusion or blemish, the diamond is beautiful enough for me.” An eye-clean diamond may fit the bill in these cases. GIA does not use this term.
  • SI3 – Some diamond grading labs issue a clarity grade of SI3. GIA does not. The Institute has studied the SI3 suggestion at various times over the years. GIA still concludes there is no reason to change its long-standing and universally accepted diamond grading system.
A 1.40 ct F color, SI1 clarity round brilliant cut diamond in a six-prong platinum engagement ring setting with 0.20 carats of diamond melee in an 18K rose gold shank.

The beauty of this 1.40 ct F color, SI1 clarity round brilliant cut diamond is undeniable. The six-prong platinum basket and 0.20 carats of diamond melee in an 18K rose gold shank add extra charm. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

4. Find out how GIA grades diamond clarity

Just as GIA developed the globally recognized terms for grading diamond clarity, it also developed the processes for objective and unbiased diamond clarity grading . GIA procedures include viewing a diamond under controlled lighting conditions, using specific viewing angles and distances, and following precise steps that ensure every part of the diamond is examined to locate all the inclusions and blemishes that might affect its clarity.

A GIA diamond grader examines the diamond using her trained eye, a 10× jeweler’s loupe and sometimes a microscope at increased magnification. However, the final clarity grade is always determined by the diamond’s appearance under a 10× jeweler’s loupe.

In arriving at a clarity grade, the grader takes into account five factors:

  • Size – When all factors are equal, the larger the inclusion and the more visible it is, the lower the diamond’s clarity grade.
  • Number – When all other factors are equal, the more inclusions or reflections of inclusions that are visible face-up at 10× magnification, the greater their effect on the clarity grade.
  • Location – Refers to the position of an inclusion. The closer an inclusion is to the center of the table, the greater its effect on the clarity grade.
  • Relief – Refers to the contrast between the inclusion and the diamond. Generally, the more an inclusion differs in brightness, darkness or color from the diamond, the more visible it is and the greater its impact on clarity.
  • Nature – Refers to the type of characteristic and its inherent effect on the diamond. In other words, some inclusions or blemishes can have greater impact on clarity than others.

A diamond may have many tiny inclusions and still be high on the clarity scale. Ultimately, it’s the combination of these five factors that affects the overall clarity appearance. Blemishes, in contrast, can often be removed when a diamond is polished or repolished, so they rarely have an effect on grades lower than IF.

A 10.21 carat emerald cut diamond engagement ring with a clarity grade of VS2.

The 10.21 ct emerald cut diamond featured in this engagement ring received a diamond clarity grade of VS2. Courtesy: TrueFacet.com

5. Treatments can improve diamond clarity – but it’s not all good

Manufacturers sometimes try to improve diamond clarity to make stones more attractive and more valuable. Here are two common methods used to accomplish this.

  • Laser drilling makes it possible to remove or lighten inclusions deep inside the stone. The laser creates a narrow channel from the surface to a dark inclusion in the diamond. If the included material is not vaporized by the laser, it is dissolved or “bleached” with a strong acid introduced via the channel. The resulting white appearance is generally considered more appealing than a dark spot that does not return light. Because the treatment is permanent (the inclusion will not come back or darken), GIA grades laser-drilled diamonds, but it records the resulting drill holes as inclusion features that may impact the clarity of the diamond.
A 30× magnification photo of a diamond showing a thin channel that been laser drilled from the surface to a large inclusion.

As seen here with 30× magnification, a thin channel has been laser drilled from the surface of the diamond to a large inclusion that was then vaporized or dissolved. Photo: Vincent Cracco/GIA

  • Fracture filling is the filling of surface-reaching fissures, fractures and laser drill holes with a glass-like material that has a refractive index close to that of diamond. Fracture filling doesn’t “heal” the fracture or improve the diamond’s actual clarity. The original fracture is still there, it’s just more difficult to see. However, this treatment is not permanent, and tales abound of fracture-filled diamonds that have been damaged when exposed to high heat during some jewelry repair, setting or cleaning procedures. As a result, many laboratories – including GIA – will not grade fracture-filled diamonds, and the fact the diamond has been fracture filled must be disclosed by the seller.
A before photo showing a 0.20 carat diamond with visible fractures and after filled with a glass-like substance.

A 0.20 ct diamond with large, highly visible reflective fractures is shown here before (left) and after (right) filling with a glass-like substance. Photos: Shane F. McClure/GIA

6. Certain types of inclusions can make a diamond more vulnerable to damage

Generally, if a diamond has significant durability problems, it doesn’t survive the friction and pressure of the cutting process. However, certain types of inclusions, especially if they’re near the girdle – the narrow section that separates the diamond’s upper (crown) and lower (pavilion) parts and functions as its setting edge – can make a cut diamond more vulnerable to damage. For example, if the stone is hit precisely on a feather or other surface-reaching inclusion, it might chip. Likewise, very deep feathers that extend from the crown to the pavilion, or that penetrate about one-third of the way or more into the diamond, could pose durability concerns.

The GIA Diamond Grading Report for diamonds on the D-to-Z color scale featuring a plotting diagram.

The GIA Diamond Grading Report for diamonds on the D-to-Z color scale features a plotting diagram (bottom center panel), which maps a diamond’s inclusions and blemishes as viewed from the crown (left) and pavilion (right).

7. To be sure of diamond clarity, get a GIA grading report

The GIA Diamond Grading Report, the GIA Diamond Origin Report and the GIA Diamond Dossier provide an objective, unbiased assessment of diamond clarity along with the other “Cs” of diamond quality.

GIA Diamond Grading Report and GIA Diamond Origin Report contain a plotting diagram that maps the diamond’s inclusions and blemishes. The diagram shows the diamond’s shape and facet arrangements as seen from two views: the crown and pavilion. Symbols are used to represent the type, location, relative size and sometimes the shape of the clarity characteristics being plotted. In addition to providing details about a diamond’s clarity features and describing the diamond’s clarity, the diagram can also assist in diamond identification. No two diamonds below Flawless and Internally Flawless have exactly the same combination or placement of clarity characteristics.

A 1.05 carat round brilliant cut diamond engagement ring surrounded by a double halo of diamond melee in an 18K white and rose gold setting.

In this engagement ring, a 1.05 ct round brilliant cut diamond is surrounded by a double halo of diamond melee in an 18K white and rose gold setting. The many facets of a brilliant cut diamond make inclusions less visible than they would be in some other cuts, such as the emerald cut. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Now that you’ve brushed up on some diamond clarity essentials and know what color and clarity grades are good for your diamond, you just might be wondering: What’s the most important C of diamond quality?

How to Choose a Yellow Diamond Engagement Ring

A yellow diamond engagement ring is a stunning choice to celebrate your love. But picking the perfect engagement ring requires knowing about yellow diamonds, mountings, the effect of metals on appearance, treatments and more. We offer help.

Here are a few things you’ll need to know:
A fancy-color yellow diamond falls outside the GIA D-to-Z color range
GIA assigns one of six “fancy” color grades to your yellow diamond engagement ring
Don’t expect a round diamond for your yellow diamond engagement ring
Mountings can make a yellow diamond look darker
The metal used affects the appearance of a yellow diamond engagement ring
Some yellow diamonds might be treated, lab grown or both
Make sure GIA grades the diamond in your yellow diamond engagement ring
A yellow diamond engagement ring is rare because yellow diamonds are rare

A fancy-color yellow diamond falls outside the GIA D-to-Z color range

Understanding diamond color is essential before you go shopping for a yellow diamond engagement ring. Most colorless or near-colorless gem-quality diamonds are graded based on the absence of color, using GIA’s D-to-Z diamond color-grading system. Yellow diamonds are considered to be colored diamonds and are graded as “fancy” when they have more color than the Z masterstone.

Here is another important difference between yellow diamonds and colorless diamonds. Diamonds in the D-to-Z range usually decrease in value as the color becomes more obvious. The opposite happens with fancy-color diamonds. Their value generally increases with the strength and purity of the color.

Natural intense yellow heart shaped diamond

Colored diamonds graded Fancy Intense are often prized over those with other fancy grades. This yellow heart shaped diamond speaks of the first blush of love. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA

A 5.33 carat Fancy Yellow pear shaped diamond.

Fancy-color diamonds are often cut into fancy shapes, like a pear shape, to bring out the color. Sunny days lie ahead for the bride wearing this 5.33 carat (ct) Fancy Yellow pear shaped diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

GIA assigns one of six “fancy” color grades to your yellow diamond engagement ring

The names used to describe colors are often quite subjective. Consider that the color yellow includes variations like butter, lemon, golden and more. To bring objectivity and standardization to the grading of the rare beauties that are colored diamonds, GIA created the GIA Colored Diamond Color Grading System in the 1950s and refined it over the decades. This grading system not only defined the processes for determining a diamond’s color, but it also established the terms, or color grades, for describing it.

GIA’s grading system places most colored diamond in one of nine categories based on the diamond’s hue, tone and saturation: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Dark, Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid. The first three grades aren’t used for yellow diamonds, so the scale for yellow begins with Fancy Light. The majority of yellow diamonds in the jewelry industry are graded Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense and Fancy Vivid.

In general, the more color a colored diamond has, the better. Fancy Deep and Fancy Vivid diamonds, for example, have more color than Fancy Light diamonds—and are usually more valuable. However, tone (the degree of darkness or lightness of a color) is also important. For example, a diamond that is extremely dark (Fancy Dark) may be less desirable than a lighter stone graded Fancy Intense.
It is not unusual for a yellow diamond to have a hue modifier, such as orangy yellow or greenish yellow. A modifier does not indicate that the color is any less strong or pure.

 A chart shows the subtle transitions in GIA’s color grading of yellow diamonds.

This chart shows the subtle transitions in GIA’s color grading of yellow diamonds. Note, too, that the fancy grades represent a range of color sensations, not a “single” color sensation. Photo: Elizabeth Schrader and C. D. Mengason/GIA

Don’t expect a round diamond for your yellow diamond engagement ring

Round diamonds cut in the brilliant faceting style are the most popular diamonds for engagement rings, but you may have a challenging time finding a round stone for your yellow diamond engagement ring. That’s because yellow diamonds typically display a more intense face-up color appearance when they’re cut in a shape other than round. These non-round shapes are called fancy shapes, which include oval, pear, marquise and heart, plus square or rectangular cuts like princess, radiant and emerald.

A 10.12 carat Fancy Vivid yellow pear shaped diamond.

This 10.12 ct Fancy Vivid yellow pear shape is an example of a fancy-shape diamond. This shape was most likely selected to intensify the yellow color. Photo: Elizabeth Schrader/GIA. Courtesy: The Scarselli Family

Mountings can make a yellow diamond look darker

If your heart is set on a yellow diamond engagement ring, you will probably look at a number of loose yellow diamonds. Be aware that the yellow diamond that has caught your eye may appear darker when set in a mounting.

Look at the photos below. The diamond on the left in the top image was graded Y–Z range, just on the light yellow/Fancy Light yellow boundary. It is shown next to a Fancy yellow reference diamond. In the bottom image, the larger diamond is mounted in a ring and placed next to the same reference diamond.

An image showing a loose yellow diamond and a mounted yellow diamond.

A yellow diamond is likely to look darker once it’s set in a mounting. Photos: Elizabeth Schrader/GIA. Courtesy: The Scarselli Family

This effect can actually work to your advantage, particularly if you’re deciding between a less expensive “light yellow” diamond at the very low end of the D-to-Z color scale and a more expensive Fancy yellow diamond.

The metal used affects the appearance of a yellow diamond engagement ring

Diamonds are highly reflective. Their facets are like tiny mirrors, reflecting their surroundings, which include the color of the ring and the prongs holding the gem. Because of this, the color of the metal will affect a diamond’s appearance.

You’ll typically have three choices when picking a metal for your yellow diamond engagement ring:

Do you want your engagement ring to highlight the color of the yellow diamond? White metals and rose gold will create contrast between the mounting and the stone. White gold makes for a streamlined, sophisticated look. A rose gold mounting will create a warmer contrast.

Do you want your ring to complement the color of the diamond? A yellow gold mounting will harmonize with a yellow diamond. Take a look at Art Deco style engagement rings, Retro style engagement rings and ring styles typical of the Victorian era, times when yellow gold was in fashion, to see if these are designs you’d like to recreate for your yellow diamond engagement ring.

A 4.76 ct Fancy Vivid yellow diamond engagement ring surrounded by a halo of colorless diamonds.

Want your yellow diamond to pop? Set it in a white metal ring. This 4.76 ct Fancy Vivid yellow diamond is so bright that it appears to have captured a ray of the sun. A halo of colorless diamonds surrounds it. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A 3.46 ct yellow oval diamond engagement ring set in rose gold.

Rose gold is another way to create contrast with a yellow diamond. In this ring, it acts as a subtle counterpoint to the 3.46 ct yellow oval diamond. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

A three-stone yellow diamond engagement ring set in yellow gold.

A yellow gold band paired with yellow diamonds creates a harmonious look. The three yellow diamonds set in 18K yellow gold are sure to soothe the eye as they captivate it. Courtesy: Rahaminov Diamonds

Some yellow diamonds might be treated, lab grown or both

Off-color diamonds that are brownish or yellowish can be treated to modify their color. Manufacturers typically use one or both of two different processes:

  • High-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) annealing can change some diamonds to yellow.
  • Artificial irradiation with subsequent heating (annealing) above about 500°C can be used to induce a deep yellow color in a diamond.

In both cases, the treatment is considered permanent under normal conditions of wear and care. Non-permanent treatments, like coatings, are also possible. All else being equal, diamonds that have not been treated are more expensive than diamonds that have been treated. Legally, the seller must disclose any treatments. GIA can detect these treatments, and it identifies them in the GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report. It also laser inscribes “HPHT PROCESSED” or “IRRADIATED” on the girdle of diamonds treated by either of these methods.

A 22.27 ct Fancy Vivid yellow emerald cut diamond that was artificially irradiated and annealed.

This 22.27 ct Fancy Vivid yellow emerald cut diamond was identified as artificially irradiated and annealed. Treated diamonds of this size and this attractively saturated color are rare. Photo: Sood OIl (Judy) Chia/GIA

Synthetic yellow diamonds – with properties that match their natural counterparts – are also being manufactured. The first synthetic diamonds were grown by HPHT processes that mimic the high-pressure, high-temperature conditions of natural diamond formation in the earth. Today, chemical vapor deposition (CVD) is another common method whereby synthetic diamonds are grown in an apparatus that uses high temperatures and low pressures in a vacuum chamber. The CVD process involves heating a mixture of a hydrocarbon gas (such as methane) and hydrogen, which releases carbon atoms that then settle onto the cooler, typically square-shaped seed plate of natural or, more likely, synthetic diamond. With both techniques, subsequent treatments may be used to change the color of the original crystal.

GIA can detect synthetic diamonds grown using either HPHT or CVD, and it issues distinctive reports for these synthetic or lab-grown diamonds. The GIA Synthetic Colored Diamond Grading Report offers the same information as the GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report issued for a natural diamond (see below), but it provides a more general description of the color and clarity. For additional disclosure and identification, GIA laser inscribes the diamond’s girdle with the stone’s unique report number and a statement that it is laboratory grown. The report itself looks markedly different from those issued for natural diamonds.

A 0.40 ct square-shaped diamond grown using the CVD process.

This 0.40 ct square-shaped diamond was grown using the CVD process. Photo: Sood OIl (Judy) Chia/GIA

Make sure GIA grades the diamond in your yellow diamond engagement ring

A yellow diamond engagement ring is a symbol of your love. It’s also a significant emotional and financial investment. So you’ll want to make sure the diamond is graded by a trusted, unbiased lab like GIA. GIA’s meticulous grading process involves testing to determine whether the diamond is natural or lab grown and to identify any known treatments used to enhance its appearance.

Highly trained colored-diamond graders observe the diamond face-up using controlled lighting in a specially designed viewing box that eliminates distractions and shields the stone from external light. These specialists determine the diamond’s characteristic color based on a combination of its size, shape, faceting arrangement and color. They then bracket the diamond using side-by-side comparisons under the same lighting conditions with two or more color references. On the basis of these comparisons, they select one of 27 hues (such as orangy yellow, yellow or greenish yellow) and assign a specific “fancy” grade based on the hue’s tone and saturation.

A GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report provides a full quality assessment of a colored diamond including the color grade, color origin (natural or treated), carat weight, clarity and a plotting diagram of its clarity characteristics. As an optional service, a full-color image of the diamond may also be included.

A GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report.

A GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report is your assurance that your yellow diamond is a natural diamond, graded to GIA’s exacting standards. It also provides full disclosure of any known treatments discovered during the grading process. Photo: GIA

A 2.03 ct Fancy Vivid yellow cushion cut diamond set in platinum.

If you’re looking for a unique engagement ring, this 2.03 ct Fancy Vivid yellow cushion cut diamond set in platinum will surely stand out. Courtesy: EraGem.com

A yellow diamond engagement ring is rare because yellow diamonds are rare

When you wear a yellow diamond engagement ring, you’ll have something unusual on your finger. In the early 2000s, for example, yellow diamonds represented only 2.4% of all diamonds submitted to GIA for various grading reports over the course of a single year. If unearthing a diamond is noteworthy, then discovering a yellow diamond is like finding a golden needle in a haystack.

Still yearning for a yellow diamond engagement ring? Dig a little deeper to learn more about yellow diamonds.