Ever wonder how the characters in Downton Abbey end up wearing such authentic (and beautiful) period jewelry?
Accessorizing many of the actresses in seasons three and four was Andrew Prince, a designer with an encyclopedic knowledge of jewelry history. Prince created tiaras and jewelry for the 2005 British comedy, Mrs. Henderson Presents (starring Dame Judi Dench) and the 2009 film, The Young Victoria (starring Emily Blunt and Miranda Richardson). He was invited to the show by costume designer Caroline McCall.
Lady Cora Crawley, an American heiress with progressive attitudes, wears a tiara by Prince. Courtesy of Carnival Films and MASTERPIECE on PBS.
McCall selected items from Prince’s collection, and also asked him to create appropriate pieces of jewelry for Lady Violet Crawley (Dame Maggie Smith), Lady Cora Crawley (Elizabeth McGovern), Lady Mary Crawley (Michelle Dockery), and several other actresses. Unlike most costume jewelry used on movie and television sets, Prince’s was made of bronze, brass, sterling silver, palladium, Swarovski crystals, cubic zirconia, and synthetic gemstones.
Prince told GIA about his work in this cast photo. He explained that Lady Violet wore the most splendid, formal gems with an air of complete nonchalance, while the beautiful younger ladies had fun with more modern styles. By season four, Lady Edith Crawley (Laura Carmichael) had become much more fashion conscious and daring, while her wild young cousin, Lady Rose MacClare, (Lily James) had embraced all the latest styles of the Jazz Age.
The cast of Downton Abbey, many decked in Prince’s jewels. Courtesy of Carnival Films and MASTERPIECE on PBS.
Prince’s creative process is quite impressive. A version of the below pendant, which Lady Violet Crawley wore, was first seen in the paintings of Hans Holbein the Younger (1497 – 1543). A renewed interest in Holbein’s paintings influenced jewelry design of the late 19th-century. Prince then reimagined this Holbeinesque piece as an Edwardian pendant.
Prince demanded that the gemstones in this pendant be historically accurate rose-cut crystals. Courtesy of Andrew Prince
A tiara for Lady Violet Crawley is another instance of Prince blending his imagination and jewelry history. A Russian tiara was the original inspiration for this piece, and Prince added a layer of ‘gingerbread’ pearls and filigree to the top.
Lady Cora Crawley donned this pearl tiara. Prince noted that this piece is in the Russian band style (1910 – 1915), which was popularized by Grand Duchess Vladimir (1854 – 1920). Cartier produced a number of these pieces. Prince added Edwardian elements in the scroll work. Courtesy of Andrew Prince.
When Lady Rose MacClare was presented at court, Prince made her a replica of the Sancy Diamond, which hangs in this pendant. Charles the Bold of Portugal and Marie de’ Medici (Queen of France; 1573-1642) were some of the owners of the Sancy Diamond. It also had a place in England’s Crown Jewels.
Replica of the Sancy Diamond, which hangs in this pendant. Courtesy of Andrew Prince.
Summing up his experience with the show, Prince said: “It was an absolute thrill to work with Caroline McCall and to be associated with such a hugely successful series. It’s wonderful to see my jewelry being worn by this amazing cast, and adding a little more sparkle to the sumptuous costumes and surroundings of Downton Abbey.”
Indulge your interest in the jewelry of Downton Abbey and explore the jewelry of Edwardian and Art Deco Eras, the periods during which the show takes place.
Main image courtesy of Courtesy of Carnival Films and MASTERPIECE on PBS.
